
Class _ Ji.ULi=J. 
Book_._.sE_LZ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



SCENES, INCIDENTS, AND ADVENTURES 



IN THE 



PACIFIC OCEAN, 

OR 

THE ISLANDS OF THE AUSTRALASIAN SEAS, DURING THE 
CRUISE OF THE CLIFPER 

MARGARET OAKLEY, 

UNDER 

CAPT. BENJAMIN MORRELL. 



CLEARING UP THE MYSTERY WHICH HAS HERETOFORE SURROUNDED 
THIS FAMOUS EXPEDITION, AND CONTAINING A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE 
EXPLORATION OF THE BIDERA, PAPUA, BANDA, MINDORO, SOOLOO, AND 
CHINA SEAS, THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS OK 
THE ISLANDS, AND A DESCRIPTION OF VAST REGIONS NEVER BEFORE 
VISITED BY CIVILIZED MAN. 



BY THOMAS JEFFERSON JACOBS, 

ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. 




NEW-YORK: 

HARPER <fc BROTHERS, 82 CLIFF-STREET. 

1844* 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1844, by 

Harper & Brothers, 
In the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New- York. 






?x<\ 



PREFACE. 



The outfit and departure of the brig Margaret Oak- 
ley, under Captain Benjamin Morrell, on an exploring and 
trading voyage to the islands of the East Indian Seas, 
some years since, created quite a sensation among our 
citizens. Neither the brig nor her master ever return- 
ed ; nor has any authentic publication ever been made 
of the history, objects, and results of this expedition. 
Rumours of various kinds have at different times been 
circulated ; but they were all based upon mere conjec- 
ture, and were as unfounded in truth as they were in- 
jurious to the reputation of those most closely connected 
with the enterprise. 

The writer of the following narrative, having had the 
fortune to attend the expedition from its commencement 
to its termination, has frequently been urged by his 
friends and others concerned to give its history to the 
public ; but a regard for the pecuniary interests of per- 
sons connected with it, combined with reasons of a more 
personal nature, seemed to render this inexpedient. The 
time, however, has now arrived when the publication 
may be made without injury to the feelings or interests 
of any one, and I therefore cheerfully give the narra- 
tive to the public. It purports to be nothing more than 



IV PREFACE. 

a plain and simple statement of the incidents of the voy- 
age, the scenes through which we were led in its course, 
and the character, situation, and resources of the nu- 
merous islands which we explored. The region of the 
world of which it treats is now for the first time laid 
open to the public eye. Up to the present moment it 
remains emphatically terra incognita. Even the nav- 
igation of those seas is treated only in the most super- 
ficial manner by the few persons who have written 
upon it at all ; and there has never been made in any 
country an adequate or satisfactory description of the 
wealth, the beauty, and immense fertility in which they 
abound. Without making any pretensions to literary 
merit, the work herewith presented will give to the 
world some new ideas, at least, of the importance and 
value of the islands of Australasia. T. J. J. 

Harlem, June 1, 1844. 



CONTENTS, 



CHAPTER I. 

Anthropophagi exhibited in New-York. — Their Birthplace. — Ignorance of 
the Whites. — Contemplated Expedition to their Islands. — Its Abandonment. 
— Death of one of them. — Outfit of a rakish Brig .... Page 13 

CHAPTER II. 

Departure of the Margaret Oakley, Captain B. Morrell. — Sea-sickness. — 
Boisterous Weather. — Leaky Deck. — Personal Difficulties. — Scene in the 
Forecastle. — A lucky Event in the Author's Life. — Snoozing in the Moon. — 
Prince Telum-by-by Darco. — Throwing the Spear and a Bear's-hug Wres- 
tle. — " Bonny-wiskers" . .16 

CHAPTER III. 

Bonavista. — English Town. — Amalgamationists. — Royal Army. — Seiior Pe- 
loto. — Hato of Asses. — The Author's Feat of Horsemanship. — Salt Plan- 
tations. — The Cook a Potentate. — The Boatswain rides a wild Horse. — ■ 
Benton the Pirate and Slaver. — A Fandango. — Tatterdemalion Girls. — To- 
bacco. — Grand Fight in the Plaza. — Threatened Bombardment of the Town 
by the Margaret Oakley 24 

CHAPTER IV. 

Porto Praya. — The Town. — St. Jago. — Monkeys. — Bad Water. — Rain 
Squalls. — Cross the Equator. — Ceremony. — S.E. Trades. — Fiery Ocean. — 
Sick-list. — Tristan d'Acunha. — Southern Cross and Magellan Clouds. — 
Steer for the South Pole. — Albatross and Cape Pigeons . . .30 

CHAPTER V. 

A Sea tumbles inboard. — The Captain washed Amidships. — The Tempest. — 
Robert Mills falls from the Main-yard.' — Spring aleak. — Perilous Situation. 
—Polar Exploration knocked in the Head. — " Used up" by the Pump. — 
Bourbon. —Mauritius. — Calms. — Port Louis 33 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Ship's Protest. — Decision of the Survey. — Negro Slave Ship-carpen- 
ters. — Progress of Repairs. — City of Port Louis. — Negro Plot. — Malagashe 
Chief. — British Interference with Slavery. — Standing Army. — Champ de 
Mars. — Beaux and Belles. — Negro Footmen and Dances. — Cemetery. — 
Mountain Tour. — Peter Botte. — Paul and Virginia. — Spiders . . 36 

CHAPTER VII. 

Macaoamized Road. — Grand River. — Ablution of Mussulmen. — Washing 
girls — Hotel Dieu. — A Friend's Villa. — A private Soiree. — A Lounge with 
the Ladies upon the Couches of Pamplamouses. — Chassemaree. — Hurri 
canes. — Sugar. — Ebony Firewood. — Madagascar Cattle. — Yankee Naviga 
tor. — Pestongee Bomingee. — Encampment. — The American Flag insulted. 
— Haul down our Colours ,,,.,.... 43 



VI CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Bombardment of the Fort by H. B. M. Ship of the Line Melville, Admiral 
Sir John Gore. — Apple Jonathan. — Our Crew attack the Man-of-war's 
Men.— Sad Mistake. — The Repair of the Vessel completed. — Increase of 
the Crew and Armament. — Flying Reports. — The Corporal's Wife. — A 
runaway Man-of-war's Man. — Pleasure Party bound to the Pacific Ocean. 
— The Indian Ocean. — We chase a British Ship. — Warlike Preparations 

Page 45 

CHAPTER IX. 

Sandal-wood Island. — Devil Fish. — Sumbawa. — Camada and Floris. — Straits 
of Sapy. — Celebes Sea. — Water Spouts. — Dangerous Proximity. — A White 
Rock. — Whale. — Transformation of a Schooner. — The Chase. — Fire upon 
two Malay Proas. — Banda Sea. — Booro. — Cajeli Bay and City. — Sleep of 
Death. — Fire a Broadside. — Awake the Inhabitants. — The Commandant 
and Rajahs. — They peremptorily forbid us from trading or buying Provis- 
ions. — Threaten to blow down the Minarets. — A Truce. — The Rajahs sub- 
mit. — Razors. — Construction of Buildings 50 

CHAPTER X. 

The Fort and Garrison. — The Commandant. — Curious Mob. — Malay Car- 
penters. — Malay Girls. — Mohammedan Jealousy. — Malay Distillery. — Ca- 
jeput Oil. — Rajah Malar and the Caldrons. — Vegetable Silk. — Pirates and 
contraband Trade. — Threatened Engagement with a Dutch Man-of-war. — 
The Elements conspire against us. — Pitt's Passage. — Bomoa and Manipa. 
— Fishing "Tanzy." — Gause Strait and Islands. — Oby Major. — Lobobo 
Point. — Gillolo Passage. — Pursued by a Fleet of piratical Proas. — Fire 
upon them, and sink one. — Geby and Jeoy. — Romantic Islets. — Waigoo. — 
Boni Saini. — Vigilant Sentinels. — Threatened Attack of the Savages at 
Midnight 56 

CHAPTER XI. 

The Savages. — Population. — Sailing Directions. — Youle Islands. — The Au- 
thor overboard. — Enter a vast unknown Region. — Ignorance of Ancient 
Navigators. — Dangers. — An Autocrat. — Progress of the Vessel wrapped in 
Mystery. — Mysory. — Savages. — Towns, Bays, and Scenery. — A savage 
Orator. — Traitor's Archipelago. — Nearly dashed to Pieces . . .03 

CHAPTER XII. 

Thunder, Lightning, and Rain. — Papua. — Branded Savages. — Nose Orna- 
ment, &c. — Elephant. — A Warrior fires an Arrow at the Captain. — War- 
like Preparations of the Savages. — The Captain shoots a Warrior. — At- 
tacked by the King's Flotilla. — Two Sailors wounded. — Slaughter. — Ha- 
rangue of the Captain. — Reynolds's Bay. — Speculations of the Crew. — 
Friendly Natives. — Iron. — Tortoise-shell. — Paradise Birds. — Pearls. — 
Gold-dust, &c. — War Implements. — Native Song and Music. — Approach 
the Land of Promise. — Prince Darco 69 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Morrell's Group. — Nyappa. — Mountaineers. — Riger. — Armed Savages. — Re- 
ception of the Prince. — ■ Pongo. — America in the Moon. — Death of Mo- 
gagee. — The Rape of Nape. — The Author's Visit to Riger. — The Mob. — 
Inquisitive " Young Ladies." — Traveller's License. — Aged Chiefs. — Pal- 
ace. — Dancing-girls. — Lavoo, the red Warrior; his Wife his own Sister.— 
Laveauxand LaPerouse. — Red Man's Island. — PitarCave. — Magic Stone. 
— Tomboner Spring. — Adam and Eve. — Fish boiled by Nature. — Climate, 
&c. — Affection of an old Man for the Prince. — Fear, Surprise, and Curi- 
osity of Wonger and Pongaracoopo. — Nyappa 78 



CONTENTS. VU 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Reception of the Prince at Nyappa. — Crowned King. — Mountain People. — 
Tortoise-shell, Pearls, and other Valuables. — Outfit of the King. — A na- 
tive Youth. — Linguists. — Survey Morrell's Group. — Nyappa, Garove, Mtsn- 
davvpa, Kiger, Beo, Lote, Car-Car. — Mysterious Bay — Mermaids. — Wharf 
Island. — Look-out Peak. — Revery. — Colony of young Men and Women. — 
Success of Darco. — Mountaineers subdued. — Magic War-club. — Women 
and Children. — King Darco's Story of the Devil's Visit to Nyappa — '1 ne 
lamented La Perouse Page b9 

CHAPTER XV. 

Tropical Australasia an Enigma. — Brief historical Account of the Doings of 
Ancient Navigators. — Discovery of Papua.— Archives of Spain.— Meneze 
and Saavedra. — Alvaro de Mendana. — P. F. de Quiros. — Luis Vaez de 
Torres. — Jacob le Maire. — Wilhelm Cornelisz Schouten. — Abel Jansen 
Tasman. — Captain William Dampier. — Yacht Geelvink. — Admiral Jacob 
Roggerwein. — M. Surville.— Mons. de Bougainville. — Captain Carteret. — 
Captain James Cook. — Captain Shortland. — Lieutenant M'Cluer. — Captain 
d'Entrecasteaux and Captain Forrest. — Nomenclature. — Bidera. — Rmeno. 
— Pelego. — Marso. — Papua. — Mendana Archipelago. — Bouka. — Bougain- 
ville. — Baropee. — Soterimber. — Cambendo. — Quiros Archipelago. — Carter- 
et Strait. — Bidera Sea. — Papua Sea. — A Seacoast 6300 Miles long. — Vast 
Size of Papua. — Charts incorrect. — Fearlessness and Recklessness of the 
Captain backed by a young and Chivalrous Crew. — Outlawed . . 103 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Hazardous Descent upon the North Coast of Bidera. — Primitive Scenery. — 
Climate and Productions. — Bugbears. — Savages. — Indifference of the Sail- 
ors. — Chase the Savages. — Invest a Village. — Leo Island. — Peace-offering. 
— Peo Leo. — Women visit the God-ship. — Children of the Sun. — Mysterious 
Circle. — Great Medicines. — Leprous old Woman. — Hook in a Girl's Finger. 
— Incantation. — Talisman.— Salve. — Polygamy. — Katore's three Daugh- 
ters. — Allison River.— Wild Hogs, &c. 117 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Exploring Squadron. — The Invincible, the Tempest, and the Sylph. — The 
Vessel fortified. — Invest a Village. — Hostile Savages. — The Alarm. — 
Solemn Procession. — Tantangeely. — Red Paint. — Striped Pig. — Encamp- 
ment. — Orutoroto. — The Sylph's Rudder stolen. — Threatened Slaughter. 
— Peace-offering. — Rudder Island. — Explore a River. — Oysters. — Bathing. 
— Encampment. — Speculations. — Pigeon Pie. — Sambarlow Point. — The 
Savages accuse us of Cannibalism 128 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Capture two Canoes. — Flight of the Savages. — Woge-Woge. — A Village. — 
Fruit, &c. — Bay of Shoals. — A Bay. — Golopo Plantations. — Singular An- 
imals. — Little Tree's Grand-daddy. — Landsmen. — Wood-chopping. — Nut- 
meg.— Frankincense. — Garden. — Clothes-washing and a natural Shower- 
bath. — Fairy Cove. — Webster Bay. — Smoke. — Volcano. — Breakers.— Bar- 
retuno Bay. — The noted Warrior Woner- Woner. — A Race. — Encampment. 
— Fishing by Torchlight. — Banditti. — Ambuscade. — Eden. — Imburado the 
Second — Speech of Woner. — Native Dress, Circumcision, Customs, &c. 
— The Lake, the Valley, the Cascade, and the River .... 137 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Woner- Woner's Tuonger. — Family Group. — Mener and Toloo. — Green Co- 
coanut. — Marriage Ceremony. — Anecdotes of the Tribe of Imburado. — 
Black Warriors.— The Giant Pelaccar.— Slaughter of the Defile of Pelac- 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

car Ahshing. — Sleeping Apartment. — Riarnu (Bedstead). — Water Jars. — 
Romping Girls at the Spring. — Gold. — Bathing. — Resolution. — Disappoint- 
ment. — Farewell. — Ichneumon, &c. — Sail in the Squadron. — The March. 
— Mired in hot Mud. — Ruins. — Vermilion Lake. — Lounge among the Ruins 
of a vast City. — The Obelisk and Inscription. — The Author's Life in Dan- 
ger. — Gas. — Banditti and leaning Tower. — Devil's Trap-doors. — Rock and 
boiling Caldron. — Gold-mine. — Sulphur. — Petrified Tree . . Page 149 

CHAPTER XX. 

The Cave. — Flaming Valley. — Agate, Ginger, and Dye-wood. — Oysters. — 
War-yell. — Amazons. — Stratagem. — Pursuit. — Tree Fight. — A Savage kill- 
ed. — Canoe. — Sherburne Shoal. — Formation of Islands. — Flood-wood. — 
Monday's Group. — Hermits. — Admiralty Islands. — Morrell's Lagoon. — 
Athletic Warriors. — Tiano. — Presents. — Passage through the Lagoon — A 
Native, Pigs, and human Ulna. — Noisy Savages. — Molarpu. — The Sailors 
and the Natives. — Andrew Jackson. — U. S. Frigate Brandywine. — Saviour. 
— Fruit and Pigs. — Cocoanut " Blow-out." — Natives of Marso. — Canoes, 
war Implements, and Utensils. — Manner of Counting. — Pursued by a Flo- 
tilla. — The Giant Rugurar 161 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Measured Stroke of Paddles.— Solemn Song. — Cow-wash. — Visit to the Pal- 
ace. — Our Lives in Danger. — Savage Turmoil. — The Rescue. — A Civil 
War. — The White King assists his Ally. — Thunder, Lightning, and falling 
Stars. — The Giant Victorious. — The Women feast the Sailors. — The 
Giant's Daughter. — Quarrel. — Cannon Spears. — Canoe swamped. — Pi- 
rates. — Narcarlumo. — Massacre of four young Men. — Chain Shot. — Root 
Bay and Strait. — Village. — Natives. — Agility of the Girls. — Alarm. — Sal- 
liow. — War Party. — Parley. — Black Statue. — East Coast of Marso. — Ca- 
noe. — Eight Islands. — Turtle Soup. — Portland Islands. — Inman Island. — ■ 
Savages. — Pelego. — Byron Strait. — Paddle. — Emeno. — Bamboo Catama- 
rans. — Buxom Girls swimming on Bamboos. — Inland Tour. — Song and 
Musical Instruments. — Affection 174 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Diamond Island. — Great Bay. — Looking-glass. — Woodworth Bay. — Garden. 
— Natives in Tree-tops. — Carteret Strait. — York Island. — Newton Bay. — 
Italian Sky. — Wood and Water. — Lemonade. — Temperance Song. — Sin- 
gular Fish. — Fairy Cove. — Hieroglyphics. — Solemn Procession of the Sav- 
ages. — Offering to the Deity. — Village. — Women. — Polygamy. — Children. 
— A young Woman's Present. — Savages on a Hill. — Barbed Spears — Paint, 
&c. — The Vessel strikes upon a Reef. — The Tempest. — Breakers under 
the Lee. — Carwary. — Nomer and Heydee. — Carpo alias Bagdad. — The 
Chief and the Bell. — Garry-Garry embarks on a Voyage to the Moon. — 
Parting Scene. — War Implements and Utensils of Bidera. — Manner of 
Counting. — Tantemilelooe. — Cape Gloucester. — Dampier's Strait. — Go- 
noro Strait. — Lusee. — Cone Island. — Squadron Exploration. — Kelinger's 
Palace. — Bay. — Encampment. — Breeze 185 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Splendid Scenery.— Columnar Portal. — Dampier Island. — Gonoro. — Tombo- 
ca. — Double-banked Canoes. — Mahseelow. — Praetorium of Gonoro. — 
Speech of the King. — Mythological Deities. — Pantheon. — The King's 
Wives. — Ship-yards. — Canoe God. — Pleasure Trip of the Medicines and 
the Daughters of the King. — Temple. — Sago. — Chief's Daughter and pet 
Birds. — Bonita — Cigars. — Patriarchism. — Customs, &c. — Old Man. — ■ 
Dance. — The Temple. — Crocodiles. — Sanctum Sanctorum. — Adytum. — 
Sarcophagus. — Hieroglyphics. — Sacred Bird. — Skeleton and Sculls. — 
Alarm. — Vermilion. — Tom. — Bad Man. — Sacrilegious Proceedings. — Girls 



CONTENTS. IX 

riding Hogs. — Girl Star.— Facade of the King's Tuonger. — B. M. — Sailor's 
Fun.— Bill Bobstay.— Bowsprit. — Flying-jib. — Bumpkin. — Kentledge and 
Anchor. — Swimming. — Cape Ann. — South Coast of Bidera. — Clay Har- 
bour. — Capture Wakenish. — River. — Panther. — Ruins. — Fire. — Falcon — 
Mr. Scott.— Village Page 198 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

War-yell. — Savages. — Shower of Stones. — Capture a fortified Village by 
Storm.— Citadel. — Shield.— War-club. — Sculls.— Old Woman and Girl. — 
Ehag. — Loe-Loe. — Young Women. — Wakenish and his People. — Gardens 
and Seeds. — Castle Island. — Jack of all Trades. — Garry's Clothing. — Cass 
Harbour. — Old Man. — Squadron Explorations. — Invest a Village. — To 
Arms! — The Savages essay to turn our right Flank. — A Truce. — Treaty 
of Peace. — Splendid Tuonger. — Encampment. — Sport and Cocoanuts. — 
Bath. — Benton's Yarn. — Alarm of the Pickets. — Perilous Situation of the 
Squadron. — Fata Morgana. — The Squadron dismantled. — Pudee. — The 
Giant Rogerrogee. — Garry. — Death of a Porker. — Seeds. — Bay. — Warriors 
and Knick-knacks. — Attacked by Savages. — Slaughter. — Capture ten 
Warriors. — Garry prepares for a human Feast. — The Wounds of our Pris- 
oners. — Their Freedom. — Cooper Bay. — Cape Orford .... 209 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Water Spout. — Bougainville. — Mendana Archipelago. — Scenery. — Village. — 
Lusty Woman and her twin Children. — Comical Feats in the Water. — ■ 
Shortland Strait. — Theft. — Canoes. — Baropee. — Theft and Death. — Unin- 
habited Islands. — Manning Strait. — Cove. — Soterimba. — Submarine Vol- 
cano. — Hard a-lee. — Irving Bay. — Cave. — Gold-mine. — Beche-de-mer. — 
— Shells. — Banana Screens. — Pearl Fish-hooks. — Friendly Natives. — 
Young Women. — Look-out Rock. — Cambendo Savages. — Tarlaro. — The 
Shore. — The Council. — King and Chiefs. — The Women and Populace. — 
King's Speech. — Thaumaturgists. — War-clubs. — " There she spouts." — 
Rennel's Island. — " Canoe Ahead." — Rikoneko. — Cape Oriental. — Deliver- 
ance Islands. — Garry falls in Love. — Nitendi. — The Captain saves his Life 
with a Mirror, a Blue-light, and Fire-crackers 221 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

Bligh's Islands. — St. Philip. — Espirito Santo. — Quiros Archipelago. — Gold- 
dust. — Mallicollo. — Apee. — Whales.— Sandwich Island. — Erromanga. — 
Rev. John Williams. — Tanna. — Volcano. — Annatom. — E-ahei Nomawee. — 
Storm. — Boat lost. — Norfolk Island. — Sugar-loaf Point, Australia. — Port 
Stephen. — Port Hunter. — Broken Bay. — Port Jackson. — Sydney. — Pinch 
Gut. — Lady Macquarrie. — Russian Ship. — Captain Dillon. — The Colony, 
the Convicts, &c. — Scarcity of Maidens. — Town Lots. — Bash Rangers. — 
Spirituous Liquors. — Races. — Continent of Australia. — Smuggling Tobac- 
co. — Garry's Visit to the Moon. — Kanakers. — Departure . . . 232 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

A bad Cold. — Deliverance Cape. — Satisfaction Island. — Archipelago of the 
Louisiade. — Jones's Islands. — The Author reinstated. — Clay Harbour. — 
The Dance. — Erugu-Kutar and Aiee. — Sanguine Love-tale. — Dangerous 
Situation of the Squadron. — Shoal. — Gonoro. — Atonement. — Carwary. — 
Forebodings. — Strange Reception of Garry. — The Mystery solved. — Death 
of Nomer. — Abaddon and the Genii. — Convention of the Medicines. — Betle 
and Tobacco. — Sage Conclusions. — Heydee and her Daughters. — Ha- 
rangue.— Grand Procession of the Paradise Chiefs, the Medicines, the 
Royal Family, and the Populace. — Grand Ceremony of the Coronation of 
Garry-Garry the First. — The Plantations. — Magic War-club. — Wosappi's 
People. — March of the King and his Warriors. — Grand Doondoo Hunt upon 
the Plains of Bidera. — Sleep at the Palace. — A Knight of the Insignia 
" n^>n,inn» — Bidera, Carwary. — Doondoo Plumes .... 250 



X CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Morrell's Group. — King Darco. — Large Pearl. — Palace. — Orang-outangs. — 
Ragotur. and Tewatse his Daughter. — Her Parrot. — Grape Vines and 
Trees. — Inland Tour. — Native Dance and Song. — Bursting of a Meteor. — 
Beche-de-mer. — Colony. — Wonger and Pongaracoopo. — Manner of Count- 
ing. — Pronunciation of Five and Three. — Songule. — Women and Children 
bathing. — Luxury of a Tropical Bath. — Amphibi. — Fears of our Passen- 
gers. — Monteverdesen. — Root Strait. — Native Orator. — Pirate King. — To- 
lanerakee Bay. — Perilous Situation of the Margaret Oakley upon a Coral 
Reef. — Savages. — A volcanic Blade.— Slaughter. — Funeral Dirge. — Re- 
pairs completed. — Rugurar and his Grenadier Daughter. — Molarpu and the 
Women. — Wonger falls in Love with a buxom Wench. — Bouck Bay. — A 
Bay and Shoals. — Root Bay. — Marso. — Our Keel strikes a Coral Grove 

Page. 271 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

Nyappa. — Tales of the Travellers. — Palace. — Vines and Trees. — Tewatse and 
the Rumacker. — Farewell. — Bouka. — Atkinson Bay. — Garry and his Wife 
Carboleo. — The Queen's Daughters. — Death of Lion. — Funeral Ceremony 
and Coral Tomb. — Plantations. — A Cove. — Dominion of Kolaie. — River — 
Fire. — Tantemilelooe. — Dampier's Island. — Gonoro Strait. — Papua. — Ja- 
cobs's Island. — Tortoise and Pearl Shell, and other Valuables. — Pot Gods. 
— Cascades. — Rapids. — A Bay. — Inland Tour. — River. — Paradise Birds. — 
Encampment. — To Arms. — Haraforas. — Diamonds and Gold-dust. — Sav- 
ages. — Children of the Sun. — Plantations. — Village. — Bivartoo. — Sandal- 
wood. — Orangoutangs. — A vast Valley and River, ruined Cities, and Mon- 
sters. — Manners, and Customs, and Government. — Chanticleer. — Flowers 
and Medicinal Herbs. — Monkeys. — Tiger's Tails. — Roaring of wild Beasts. 
—Bulldog.— Canoes .287 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Spacious Bay. — Lucrative Trade. — Rolumballa. — Clove-tree. — Camphor- 
tree. — Savages with Hieroglyphics tattooed on their Faces. — Great sculp- 
tured Cave.— Canoe, Paddle, and Ballista. — River. — Bay. — Pearl-shell — 
Cigars and Tobacco. — Gourd. — Jasper Adzes. — Dye-woods. — Black Pirat- 
ical Craft. — Sailor's Song. — Little Bays. — Fadan. — Yasoo. — Arooa. — Jolly 
Savages. — Canoe and Implements. — Mountain Islands. — Audubon Island. 
— Spectral Girls. — A Locket of straight Hair. — The Captain wounded. — 
Coloured Water. — Discover a large River. — More Rivers. — Flood-wood. — 
Amnamma Island. — Malays. — Demarcation between Savage and Civilized 
Life. — Arrack. — Productions. — Trade. — Bocander River . . 300 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

Jobie— Canoe.— Paradise Birds, &c— Geelvink Bay.— Natives.— Man Over- 
board.— Dory Harbour. — Captain Le Jambre. — Women Sailors.— Javanese 
Girl.— Inland Tour.— Invitation of the Women. — A Mutiny. — Arrack.— In- 
dian Corn and Apples. — Vocabulary of Dory Harbour. — Cataract and 
Scenery. — Revenge Strait. — Bird Rock. — Captain Haguei. — A Malav 
Dutchman.— Salwatty.— The Sultan and Suite.— Shaved Heads— Proa.— 
Slaves. — Soldiers. — Lasso and Ratan. — Gongs. — Armament. — Powder. — 
Trade monopolized.— Palace.— Holland Gin and Hubblebubble.— Factory 
of the Macassar Merchants. — Celebes Girls.— Harem. — Aborigines.— The 
Captain's Life threatened.— Sultan's Kreese.— Level our Rifles at his High- 
ness. — Gongs and Tum-lums. — Malay Power and Influence along the West 
Coast of Papua.— Water.— King of Holland.— Dutch Policy , , 309 

CHAPTER XXXII, 

Pitt Strait.— Harper Bay .—Leeches.— Tour up the Mountains of Battanta.— 
Capture a Canoe-load of Aborigines.— Popa.^Geby Harbour.— Fowk Isl* 



CONTENTS. XL 

and. — Geby and its Inhabitants. — Patana Point, Gillolo. — Salaway Point. 
— Gulf of Chiaw. — Moratay Strait and Island. — Rieun. — Menagerie.— Mo- 
lucca Passage. — Siao. — Karakitas.— Malay Fleet. — Sooloo Sea. — Maratua. 
— Taballar Point, Borneo. — Malay Pirates. — Unsang. — Sooloo Archipel- 
ago. — Soolooans. — Seassee. — Agriculturists. — Handsome Sooloo Girl. — 
Threatened Massacre of the Crew of the Tempest. — Benton's Intrepidity. 
— Fray with the Pirates. — Sooloo Pirate Chief and the American Ensign. 
— Provisions.— Sooloo. — Jaeloo Harbour and City.— Sultan and Datos. — 
Gold Watch stolen. — Fire a Musket at a Slave. — Attempt to capture a 
British Ship. — A Spaniard and the Sultan's Harem. — Cock-fights. — Count- 
ing Page 325 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

Snakes. — Shoal. — Colds. — Mindoro Sea. — Whales. — Flecha Point, Pal- 
awan. — Damaran. — Carandaga Islets. — Linicapan— Fantastic Islet. — Cal- 
amiane. — Busvagan. — Calaviate Point, Mindoro. — Manilla Bay. — Luzon. 
— Capone's Point. — Bolinao Cape. — Temperature. — China Sea. — Fokien 
China. — Fishing Boats. — Fray with Chinese Fishermen. — Haihong. — 
Fokai Fou. — Pedra Blanca. — Lema Islands. — Lintin. — Canton Bay. — Pilot 
and Chop. — Bocca Tigris. — Forts. — Whampoa Reach. — Tankea Washing- 
girls. — Boston Jack. — Rice and Girls. — Chinese Funeral. — Crew dischar- 
ged. — Honan Pagoda. — Howquas Fort. — Dutch Folly. — Canton. — String 
of Pearls. — European Merchants. — Old Custom. — Women and Mission- 
aries interdicted. — Courtesan Boats. — Cargo 341 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Departure. — China Sea. — Typhon. — The Vessel in Danger. — Loss of the 
Rudder. — Tonkin Gulf. — Hainan. — Polo Catan. — Cochin China. — Pagoda 
Cape. — Polo Sapata. — Camboja River. — Siam Gulf. — Shoal. — Cargo 
thrown Overboard. — Malay Peninsula. — Floating Islet. — Polo Varela. — 
Proa. — Timoan. — Pisang Aore. — Tingy. — Polo Baby. — Romania Point. — 
Singapore. — Besieged with Bum-boats. — Chinese Ship-carpenters. — The 
Town and its Inhabitants. — The Author embarks in the Brig Ann. — M. A. 
Newton. Esq. — Calantigas. — Polo Sinkep. — Banca Strait. — Two Sisters. 
— Snnda Strait. — Indian Ocean. — South Coast of Africa. — Lagulha's Bank. 
— Infanta Cape. — Cape of Good Hope. — Hout's Bay .... 353 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

Table Bay. — Cape Town. — Table Cloth and Table Mountain. — Drive to Sea 
through Robben Island Passage. — St. Helena. — Eagle's Nest. — Napoleon's 
Tomb. — Georgetown. — Demerara River. — British Guiana. — Projected 
Journey to Santa Fe de Bogota, the Falls of the Magdalena, and Maracai- 
Do. — Brig Atlantic. — Trinidad. — Tobago. — Barbadoes. — St. Vincent. — St. 
Lucia. — Martinico. — Dominico. — Guadaloupe. — Redondo — Nevis. — St. 
Christopher's. — St.Eustatia. — Saba.— St. Martin's. — Anguilla. — Sombrero. 
— Tempest in the Gulf Stream. — Le Have Bank. — Halifax, Nova Scotia. 
— Maidens. — Brig Cordelia. — Boston. — New-York. — Wreck of the Marga- 
ret Oakley at Fort Dauphin, Madagascar. — Sculls of the Bidera Kings. — 
The Captain fits out a Clipper on his own " Hook." — Death of Captain 
Morrell. — Two of the Crew of the Margaret Oakley settle at Fort Dauphin 

to salt Beef and cure Hides. — Imprisonment of Mr. W by the Savages 

of Madagascar. — His Life saved by a Malagashe Girl. — Character of 
Captain MorrelL — Conclusion ...,,... 360 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

IN THE 

PACIFIC OCEAN. 



CHAPTER I. 

About ten years ago, as many of my readers may recollect 
two savages, named Sunday and Monday, and advertised as 
cannibals, were publicly exhibited in New- York and other cit- 
ies of the American Union. They were brought to this coun- 
try by Captain Benjamin Morrell, who represented that he had 
taken them from two groups of islands which he had discov- 
ered in the Pacific Ocean, the precise position of which, for 
private reasons, he declined to disclose. Each spoke a lan- 
guage peculiar to himself and unintelligible to the other ; and 
neither of them had ever seen a white man until Captain Mor- 
rell accidentally discovered their native islands while on a tra- 
ding voyage in the schooner Antarctic, in quest of beche-de- 
mer. 

His object in bringing them to this country was to instruct 
them in the English language, and thus to make them useful 
to himself as interpreters and pacificators in the intercourse 
with their respective islands which he proposed to open. By 
earnest statements of the services they might render, and 
glowing descriptions of the trade that might be opened at the 
islands whence they came, and at others in their vicinity, Cap- 
tain Morrell induced a number of the most respectable mer- 
chants of New- York to organize a joint stock company for a 
projected expedition thither. They were about to fit up the 
beautiful bark Silas E. Burrows, which then lay at one of our 
wharves, in an efficient manner, and to place her under the 
command of Captain Morrell for the prosecution of a mingled 
trading ar ' exploring voyage to islands in the South Pacific, 
when their enterprise was frustrated by a misunderstanding 

B 



14 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

which arose among the stockholders, and led to the entire 
abandonment of the expedition. 

But Captain Morrell, though at first disheartened by this dis- 
comfiture of his cherished hopes, did not relinquish his design. 
He had indulged too long in exaggerated dreams of the wealth 
and fame that lay within his reach, to be easily diverted from 
the attempt to make them real. He applied himself, therefore, 
with renewed energy, to the device of some new plan by which 
he might prosecute his intended voyage. 

He was doomed to fresh disappointment. The temper and 
appearance of the two savages, to whose agency he trusted 
mainly for success, were as dissimilar as their language. Sun- 
day was gentle, affectionate, inquiring, and intelligent. Mon- 
day was suspicious, moody, and difficult of restraint. He 
could not be made to understand that, in taking him from his 
native land, the whites could have had other than hostile in- 
tentions. No kindness could win his confidence, nor could 
anything banish from his mind a notion he had conceived, that 
they intended to kill and even devour him. The cold climate 
which he had been forced to accept instead of his own sunny 
land, chilled his temper as well as his frame ; he hated the 
confinement of dress and the restraints of orderly and civilized 
life, and often wept in bitter agony, shedding tears and wring- 
ing his hands in grief for the country of his birth. The food 
he received here was an unwelcome substitute for the deli- 
cious bread-fruit, the sweet sago, the luscious banana, the 
nourishing cocoanut, and the various grateful fruits and roots 
to which his taste had been accustomed in the tropical climate 
of his lovely islands. 

These things combined soon threw him into a severe fit of 
sickness. Though attended by careful and skilful physicians, 
and watched over with paternal anxiety by Captain Morrell, 
he rapidly declined, and soon died in New- York. 

This untoward event threw fresh difficulties in the way of 
Captain Morrell. For a time his scheme was suspended. But 
after a long delay, three gentlemen proposed to fit out an ex- 
pedition on a less expensive scale than that upon which the 
first had been planned. Captain Morrell eagerly embraced 
their offer: an arrangement was soon completed, and the 
scheme seemed, at last, likely to be carried into execution. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 15 

The new hull of a symmetrical clipper brig of 230 tons, then 
lying upon the stocks on the eastern shore of Chesapeake Bay, 
was to be immediately purchased, launched, rigged, and sent 
to New- York to receive her trading cargo and general outfit 
for the voyage. 

I had just left college — still in my minority — when I heard 
of the expedition ; there was something original and romantic 
connected with it, something fresh and so different from ordi- 
nary freighting and naval voyages, that the destiny of the 
beautiful vessel became to me an object of exceeding interest. 
The idea of visiting lonely and fruitful islands heretofore un- 
known ; of witnessing the habits of Sunday's people and their 
exultation at his safe return ; and, above all, the prospect of 
opening a new and brilliant path to fortune and to fame, com- 
bined to adapt this voyage to my somewhat roving and ad- 
venturous disposition. I determined, if possible, to accompany 
the vessel. 

I endeavoured to purchase a passage, but Captain Morrell 
could not take any passengers ; the owners were suspicious 
that others might learn the nature of the trade, which they 
wished and expected to secure to themselves. He, however, 
said that I could accompany the vessel and reside in the cabin, 
that he would instruct me in the practical part of navigation 
(with the theory of which I was already familiar), and grant 
me the privilege of keeping a journal, and of making all the 
observations I might desire. He added that he would impose 
upon me this restriction only, that on our return I should pub- 
lish nothing in relation to the voyage, until after the lapse of 
a certain time ; that during the cruise I would be under his au- 
thority, and required to do the duty of a midshipman. As it 
was understood that none but officers and crew were to em- 
bark in the expedition, he considered the arrangement with 
me confidential, with which the other owners had no concern ; 
so, to prevent all inconvenient inquiries on their part, he put 
my name down as one of the crew. 

As but a short time was to elapse before we were to sail, I 
was occupied in arranging everything required for the voyage, 
purchased a full set of nautical instruments, and supplied my- 
self, so far as possible, with whatever might be necessary or 
convenient on so long an expedition. The trading cargo s 



16 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

beche-de-mer caldrons, forge, and general outfits, had been re- 
ceived on board the vessel, and she was anchored in the Hud- 
son off the Battery. 

It was on a pleasant evening in the month of March, just 
about sunset, when my young friend, S. E. Woodworth (who 
was going out as captain's clerk), and myself stepped into a 
small boat at Castle Garden, the boatman plied his oars, and 
we waved a long farewell to our native city. 

It was night, when, creeping through the stern-port on 
board, the voices of a merry crew came ringing on our ears. 
On entering the cabin we found everything in confusion ; in 
the hurry of loading, the cabin stores had been thrown tempo- 
rarily into the berths, and every available corner was filled 
with something that had properly no business there. The 
steward, however, managed to empty one berth, and my friend 
and myself turned into it, making the most of our room, and 
sleeping as soundly as if the stirring adventures which filled 
our imaginations were never to exist save in our dreams. 



CHAPTER II. 

The rising sun of Sunday, the 9th of March, 1834, saw me 
on board the brig Margaret Oakley, lying at anchor in the 
Hudson River. 

The wind blew strong and keen from the northwest, and 
the surface of the water seemed angrily ruffled by its unwel- 
come blast. The sturdy pilot paced the deck for a time, eye- 
ing the clouds as they chased each other along the western 
sky. At last, satisfied with his scrutiny, with a knowing phiz 
he buried his hands deep into the pockets of his great monkey- 
jacket, and giving his head some decisive jerks, he prophe- 
sied, " We'll have a stronger bag of March wind before night 
than this." 

The Jersey ferry-boat came alongside with a thump that 
splintered our monkey-rail, and Captain Morrell, with several 
of the crew, leaped on deck. 

" Up anchor — away !" shouted the pilot. Our crew walked 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 17 

up the anchor in quick time with a deck tackle, and we were 
soon under full sail, gliding down the bay. 

" Crash !" went the chain-stopper, and the anchor fell to the 
bottom, bringing us up " all standing," while the chain clanked 
along the deck and rushed through the hawse-hole, endanger- 
ing the legs of the crew in its careless haste. 

" It's an ill omen !" said an old tar. The prophecy caused 
no alarm. We again walked up the anchor, and were soon 
again moving ahead. 

Opposite the Staten Island ferry we backed the main-topsail, 
and all our visiters took leave in a small boat for the shore ex- 
cept one, who remained on board to leave with the pilot off 
Sandy Hook. 

As they departed, one of them took the captain by the hand, 
and said, " I'm anxious to know what may be the result of this 
expedition, for it has long occupied a prominent place in my 
thoughts ; may we expect to hear of the first returns or profits 
in eighteen months V] 

" Yes," answered the captain, as he turned away, smiling. 

At 4 P.M. we were fairly out at sea, the crew were 
bustling about in their noisy, hurry-scurry style, putting up 
chafing gear, or aloft furling top-gallant-sails. I stood leaning 
over the quarter-rail gazing at the last dark blue outlines of 
Neversink as it faded in the distance and presently disappear- 
ed. The sea had increased, and the gallant vessel, like a met- 
tled race-horse, was prancing on her path through the waters. 

" Mr. Button !" shouted the captain as he thrust his head 
through the companion-way. 

"Sir!" answered the mate. 

"Keep her away S.E. by E. — that's the course !" 

" Ay, ay, sir !" replied the mate, looking into the binnacle 
and instructing the helmsman. 

I turned round and looked aloft ; the spars and rigging 
seemed one confused mass ; a filmy web drew over my eyes ; 
my head swam round, and an indescribable queasiness seized 
my nerves, and I cared but little whether the vessel went to 
Morrell's group of islands or to Davy Jones's locker. It was 
my first experience in sailing, and of course I was sea-sick. 

While crossing the Gulf Stream, and for two weeks after 
leaving New- York, we encountered stormy weather, and were 

B2 



18 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

obliged to lie to several times under the fore-spencer and 
balanced reefed main-trysail. The tempestuous weather 
caused our deck to leak considerably, and we were kept busy 
at the pumps. Besides, some of the trading cargo was injured 
by the water, and the captain determined to stop at Bonivista 
and have the deck calked : accordingly, we shaped our course 
for that island. 

The flour, and several other important articles of cabin- 
stores, had been hurriedly stowed away under the cargo ; so 
that everything we wanted seemed to be at the bottom of the 
vessel, and completely out of reach. With a loss of much la- 
bour and more temper, we fortunately fished up one barrel of 
flour and another of sour crackers. As for myself, I was in a 
fair way to fare quite sumptuously ; for my mother had care- 
fully packed up a collection of fruits, dulcets, and other good 
things for which I had a special liking. Now that my 
sickness had passed away, my appetite was ravenous, and I 
determined to make the most of her preparations ; but judge 
of my vexation on finding that some one else, fearing that they 
would spoil before I recovered, had acted as my proxy, and 
eaten them all. This was my first disappointment, though 
not my last. 

The owners, against the wishes of Captain Morrell, had 
placed on board two inexperienced young men ; one to act as 
supercargo, and the other as assistant. The supercargo by no 
means despised the pleasures of the senses, and was sadly an- 
noyed at the scantiness with which our table was sometimes 
supplied. He therefore undertook to give the steward instruc- 
tions as to his peculiar duties. At this the steward took um- 
brage, and made a report to Captain Morrell, who directed him 
to continue the common fare, and to pay no attention to orders 
from any one else. He reprimanded also the supercargo for 
his interference. These and other unpleasant quarrels soon 
made living in the cabin very disagreeable ; for it was small, 
and the hostile parties were continually in contact with each 
other, which invariably engendered bad feelings between us. 
I never acknowledged the supercargo's authority, but looked 
to Captain Morrell as the originator of this expedition, and as 
the only person to whom I owed obedience. The supercargo 
put on airs of absurd importance, and seemed mightily inflated 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 19 

with the supposed dignity of his station. He appeared jealous 
of me, and acted as if he thought that I had no right in the 
cabin without his consent, as agent of the owners. I pursued 
a straightforward, indifferent course, and paid no attention to 
him. One day, while putting my books in the library-frame, 
the steward handed me a note which the supercargo had 
given him on deck, with a request that he would hand it to 
me. I opened it, and read aloud, 

" Mr. Jacobs — Sir, as the cabin is small, and the captain not 
having made any arrangement with the owners, or me as 
their agent, for you to reside in the cabin, we think your place 
forward." 

To this the names of the supercargoes were signed. 

" The lubbers," said the steward ; " the old man 'ill use 'em 
up." 

At this moment the supercargo came into the cabin ; I took 
no notice of him, but went on deck and gave the note to Cap- 
tain Morrell. He read it, and seemed somewhat surprised as 
well as angry. 

" When this expedition," said he to me, " was first proposed, 
the owners placed full confidence in me, and gave me unlimited 
control of all its parts ; but afterward, from some cause or other, 
they foolishly imagined that I had other motives in view than 
those I had professed, and so they put these two men on board, 
and gave one a power of attorney to control my actions. Their 
official title of supercargoes is evidently assumed as a mere 
pretence ; what does one vessel want with two supercargoes 1 
They are spies ! It's not pleasant for a weather-beaten sea- 
man, one who has been cradled on the ocean, to submit to 
such men ; I'll get rid of their interference when we arrive in 
the Pacific. I see where I made a blunder : I should have 
taken a firm stand in New- York, and refused to embark with 
them on board. But all my anxiety then was to get the expe- 
dition under way ; and the fear that the owners would become 
alarmed by my taking that step, and abandon the project, de- 
terred me. It's now too late to retreat; I am fairly embarked, 
and must go ahead. The owners have cast an indirect asper- 
sion upon my integrity : it is as well to have the game as the 
name ! It is my intention," he continued, " to fulfil the ar- 
rangement that I have made with you ; but if any opposition 



20 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

is made to these men now, they will write to the owners, im- 
peach my character, and retard, if not destroy, the expedition 
at the outset." 

I saw the awkwardness of our situation, and felt embarrassed 
by it. I did not want Captain Morrell to have an outbreak 
with the supercargoes on my account, but I was not disposed 
to abandon the voyage. What was to be done ? one of three 
things, viz., to remain in the cabin and face it out, to leave tho 
vessel at the Cape Verds, or to go forward and do duty as one 
of the crew. Of the three I preferred to pursue the latter, and 
told the captain that I would do so. 

" If," said he, in reply, " you can get along forward until we 
arrive in the Pacific Ocean, I will then assume more authority 
over these men, and again replace you. In the mean time, I 
will afford you every possible opportunity to visit all the pla- 
ces we may stop at. But while forward you must do your 
duty independently, for I cannot show you any more favours 
than I do the other men, as it would destroy the discipline of 
the vessel." 

My mind was made up, and that night, soon after " eight 
bells," when the first watch was below, I went forward. The 
wind blew a gale, the sea was rough, and dark, lowering clouds 
swept over the sky. 

I opened the forecastle hatch ; a mountain wave broke over 
the bow and drenched me from head to foot — a rough and dis- 
couraging initiation. Jumping inside on the gangway ladder, 
I closed the hatch, and rolled to the bottom, where I landed on 
a wet swab. As soon as I recovered I took a survey of the 
scene into which I had been so unceremoniously ushered. At 
the right sat an old weather-beaten sailor almost naked, 
mending a rent in a flannel shirt, already of as many col- 
ours, from the patches it had received, as Joseph's coat. On 
the left were two old salts smoking short pipes and spinning 
long yarns cheek by jowl. A large lamp suspended from the 
centre deck beam swung to and fro, with two huge wicks bla- 
zing and sending forth volumes of smoke that curled up and 
settled upon the deck a thick deposite of lampblack, and then 
spreading its odour and its beauty through the room. Down 
the centre of the floor meandered a small stream of water, im- 
pregnated with tobacco juice, washed from a heap of " cuds" 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



21 



that lay under the ladder. Numerous naked arms and legs 
protruded from the berths, and a voice of snoring arose more 
sonorous than melodious. Looking along between the berths 
through a kind of centre aisle, fringed with a goodly array 
of dripping monkey-jackets, stockings, boots, southwesters, 
shirts, and trousers, all veteran representatives of storms 
and dangers, the background, as much of it, at least, as could 
be seen through the smoke, presented quite a curious scene. 
Bestriding the opposite ends of a chest, and face to face, sat 
two sailors, with their legs braced out to keep the chest from 
rolling, deeply absorbed in playing the game of " old sledge." 

Apathetic as sailors usually are, my sudden and unceremo- 
nious apparition in the forecastle had attracted the attention 
of all who were not asleep, and their eyes were now turned 
upon me with the most inquisitive looks. I was somewhat 
confused, but soon regained my self-possession and spoke 
aloud, addressing myself to all the crew : 

" Well, Jacks, I have come to join your watch, and am now 
one of the crew !" 

" Blast my tarry top-lights !" said he of Joseph's coat, " what 
does this mean 1 you must be joking !" 

In reply to his query, I entered into an explanation, and 
when I had concluded, one of the old salts on my left rose up 
quite enraged and dashed his pipe on the floor, exclaiming, as 
the pieces were scattered about, " D — n and b — r the bloody 
supercargo and after-guard !" then stretching out his arm of 
brawn and opening his callous hand, he seized my hand, and 
giving it a hearty shake, said to me, " Tom, I glory in your 
spunk ; you shall grub in our mess, and if you have been 
brought up with a silver spoon in your mouth, I'll make a 
sailor of you yet afore the cruise is up !" 

The hubbub awoke the sleepers, and out of every berth 
peered a head. A grand consultation was then held as to 
which berth I was to occupy. At length the mooted question 
was decided. There were not enough berths for each one 
separately, so one was assigned to me in partnership, to turn 
out and in, with one of the watch on deck. 

Without more ceremony, I was passed through the aisle of 
w r et clothing, dragged over sea-chests, and snugly ensconced in 
my berth like a coil of spare rigging, there to remain until 
called for. 



22 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

I soon fell into a doze, from which I was suddenly startled 
by a loud noise on the combing of the hatch — thump ! thump ! 
Open flew the scuttle, and a harsh voice bellowed down, 
" All the star-bo-lins a-ho-a-y! — eight bells! — hear the news 
below ? w 

" A-y, a-y," yawningly drawled out one of our watch, in re- 
ply, as he turned over in his berth. 

Reluctantly we turned out of our warm berths, and the man 
whose turn it happened to be to relieve the helm scrambled 
into his clothes as quickly as possible, all the while cursing 
his wet shirts and trousers. 

We heard the wind whistling and howling dolefully around 
the spars and rigging, and felt the vessel pitching heavily 
through a tempestuous sea, that ever and anon thwacked 
against the bow, and broke inboard with fearful force. " Nasty 
work on deck," said one of the watch. At this moment the 
same harsh voice bellowed down the hatch, " Bear a hand 
there ! — bundle up ! — close reef the topsails !" We ascended 
the hatch and bounded upon deck. 

From this time forward, until we left Port Jackson, in Aus- 
tralia, the reader must consider me a sailor before the mast. 
At the latter place the assistant supercargo was compelled to 
leave the vessel, by the severe treatment which, in pursuance 
of the plan before announced to me, he received at the hands 
of Captain Morrell. I was, soon after, politely recalled and 
reinstated in my old situation, when I occupied every leisure 
moment, when not engaged in trading or other duties on shore, 
in completing my study of practical navigation. I soon be- 
came aware that my having gone forward for a time had been 
of great advantage to me : the crew respected me as one able 
to creep in at the hawse-hole and work his way aft. 

On nearing the coast of Africa, the weather became warm 
and pleasant ; the storms had passed away, and every day all 
sail was set, with studding sails " alow and aloft." The sail- 
ors rejoiced at the return of sunshine, and we now began to 
experience the delights of a tropical clime, in striking and most 
agreeable contrast with the cold and stormy weather we had 
just passed through. The crew seemed determined to " make 
hay while the sun shone," for every available part of the rig- 
ging was thickly covered with wet clothing hung up to dry. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 23 

Some of the " green ones" recreated themselves at night by- 
taking a comfortable snooze on deck, in the brilliant light of a 
tropical moon, until informed by some of the more " knowing 
ones'' that their mouths would be drawn horribly askew by 
the witching rays of that luminary. They forthwith yielded 
to the superior wisdom of their more experienced shipmates, 
and relinquished the delightful, but dangerous practice. 

The savage Sunday, whom the reader will not have forgot- 
ten as being on board, was now in buoyant spirits at the pros- 
pect of a speedy return to his friends and home. His native 
name is Telum-by-by Darco ; but he is commonly called by 
his people Darco, and is a hidalgo, being one of the most 
notable chiefs of Morrell's Group, and the only son of Moga- 
gee, the reigning Tumbuco, or king, of Nyappa. He was at 
this time twenty-five years old, six feet high, with a sym- 
metrical and athletic frame. He had small, black eyes, and 
rather a good-natured, though not very expressive counte- 
nance ; the lower part of his ears was slit, and hung down ac- 
cording to the custom of his people, who wear large ornaments 
in the ears. While Darco was in this country he wore the slit 
part out of sight. Uneducated as he was, he possessed sound 
practical common sense, and never exhibited anything of a 
servile or timid temper ; his manners, on the contrary, were 
commanding and impressive, without being proud or osten- 
tatious. He cared little for ornaments, and valued only things 
of practical utility, which contributed in some way to his com- 
fort and happiness. His notions of comfort and usefulness, 
of course, differed widely from those of civilized people, as 
in the delightful climate of his native islands the people wear 
no clothing. His dexterity in throwing the spear was very- 
great. Poising it with care and skill, he would hurl it for- 
ward with perfect precision of aim, and with such fearful ve- 
locity that it would shatter into fragments a one inch and a 
half board at a distance of seventy feet. The crew some- 
times essayed to practise his mode of throwing the spear; 
but they were as sadly puzzled as when they afterward at- 
tempted to keep company with a native in walking up cocoa- 
nut-trees, or in their other athletic sports. Darco's eyesight 
was very acute, and he could always descry a sail or land 
sooner than any of the men ; indeed, he was our principal 
"look-out" at the mast-head in emergencies. 



24 Incidents and adventures 

The crew would sometimes, in sport, attempt to wrestle 
with him. He would smile pleasantly and open his arms, 
clasp them like a bear, and, with one tender hug, lay them 
sprawling and discomfited on the deck. He detested fat 
meats and spirituous liquors ; and, in his native country, sub- 
sisted principally on the varied fruits and nutritious roots 
which abound. He was always a favourite among our men, 
was never at enmity with any one, and had a most inveterate 
and praiseworthy habit of minding his own business. 

On the 8th of April, at daybreak, Darco was sitting on the 
fore-topsail yard, and startled us all by shouting, in an excited 
tone, " Cap-in Mo-rel !" 

" Halloa !" shouted the captain. 

" Me tink-e me see land-e !" cried Darco. 

" How does it look ?" 

" Him look-e too much-e far off! — plenty high! — me no hab 
fool-e you dis time !" 

It was, indeed, land that he saw, and it proved to be the 
island of Bonavista, or, as the sailors call it, " Bonny-wiskers." 
We neared the land, and soon dropped anchor in the English 
roadstead. 



CHAPTER III. 

The boarding-officer came off in a small boat, and, having 
satisfied himself that we brought no infection, granted us per- 
mission to communicate with the shore. 

One negro came on board and walked aft, saying he was 
" custom ossifer," and that it was the " ship's duty to board 
and lodge him for nothing." A gang of negroes, armed with 
mallets, calking-irons, and oakum, followed his lead, and com- 
menced pounding away upon the deck. 

The shore looked sandy and barren ; not a green thing was 
visible, except in one spot on the opposite side of the cove. 
One hundred and fifty yards to windward of the vessel was a 
small, low, rocky island, on which stood a ruined fort with no 
guns mounted. On the opposite side of the roadstead lay a 
clumsy, dirty-looking ship, with the English ensign floating at 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 25 

her peak ; she was awaiting a cargo of salt, with which she 
was bound to Buenos Ayres. Three quarters of a mile dis- 
tant, at the foot of a cove, were nestled the houses that com- 
posed English Town ; and, from the vessel, they looked not 
unlike a group of Texan anthills. Between them and us lay 
a sunken reef of rocks, over which there was just water enough 
to float our boats. When the water in the roadstead is agi- 
tated, there are heavy rollers on this reef. 

The crew all went ashore on liberty. Landing on the beach, 
I saw a vast heap of coarse salt piled up before me. There 
seemed to be no regular streets ; every one built his house 
where he chose, and the greater number of the dwellings were 
of course miserable affairs, built of stone, just high enough to 
stand up in, and thatched with salt-hay ; some were circular, 
others square, and still others oblong. A few of them, how- 
ever, were better constructed, and roofed with shingles. 

The population was composed of a mongrel race of mulat- 
toes and blacks. I did not see a purely white man in the 
place, except those we had landed there. 

At the upper part of the town is situated the Presidio, which 
is a high-walled enclosure, and was the former residence of 
Manuel Martinez, who has lately been appointed gobernador 
of the group, and now resides at Porto Praya, St. Jago. A 
black sentinel patrolled the entrada, with a huge musket and 
bayonet fixed. Notwithstanding his weapon lacked a lock, he 
seemed to attach no little consequence to himself, as filling a 
station of trust and responsibility in the " regular royal army." 

While in the quartel, the alcalde introduced me to Senor 
Peloto, who politely invited me to dine at his casa. The din- 
ner consisted merely of corned beef, sweet potatoes, bananas, 
home-made wine, and wheat bread made of sour flour, probably 
brought from New-York. I was not disposed to be fastidious, 
for I had been at sea long enough to be nearly " starved out 
on sea fare ;" so I fell to eating in right good earnest, and en- 
joyed this meal with a zest which is only the result of a gen- 
uine appetite. 

The water here is brackish, and the inhabitants bring what 
they use from a considerable distance in goatskins on the 
backs of asses. I have heard that the Bedouins of the desert 
use the estiercol of the camel for fuel ; the Bonavistians, for 

C 



26 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

the same purpose, use that of the ass, as other fuel is 
scarce. 

I held a brief tete-a-tete with two young and buxom sefioras, 

or mulatto "ladies," the daughters of Sefior P . They 

spoke in praise of the noble philanthropy of my countrymen, 
in sending ship-loads of provisions to the relief of the inhabi- 
tants of the Cape Verds, when they were on the point of furn- 
ishing ; and seemed generally much more intelligent and agree- 
able than I had expected to find them. 

A tramping sound approached, and a hato of asses, with 
panniers on their backs, halted in front of the puerta, while 

Sefior P invited me to accompany him on a visit to his 

salt farm. He bestrode the first animal, and rode ahead as 
pimipilar; I mounted the next and followed after; while be- 
hind me came stringing along, in Indian file, the whole cara- 
van, with panniers swaying to and fro, and marking time to 
the movement of their long ears, and the monotonous music 
of their step. 

Leaving the town, we followed a beaten track through the 
sand. Turning my " steed" out of the track, he refused to go 
where I directed him, and became so rest iff as to prefer mo- 
ving backward instead of forward, upon which I wheeled him 
around and incited him to indulge his crab-like propensity. 
"When he found it suited me, he relinquished all intention of 
doing it ; and, wickedly throwing his head down, he commen- 
ced a rapid series of vertical movements with his heels into 
the air. I was thrown off, and rolled heels over head down a 
sandbank. Nearly smothered in sand, I regained my feet and 
walked towards the drove, which had now halted. My ani- 
mal had quietly resumed his station in the line ; and, having 
been trained to follow, he had discovered that I was a white 
man — evidently an intruder — and one who had no right to in 
terfere with his regular duty, by turning him from his course 
I remounted, and resolved to let him have his own way, the 
only feasible way, so far as my experience goes, of managing 
any of his race. 

In due time we arrived at the salt plantations, which are sit 
uated at the foot of the roadstead, and are but little elevated 
above the surface of the water, from which they are divided by 
a low sandy ridge. They comprise a large tract of level, al 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. %*( 

luvial soil, plotted into numerous vats by banks of clay a foot 
or more in height, which become sufficiently baked by the 
heat of the sun to hold the water, which is pumped from nu- 
merous wells that are dug in close proximity, and there ex- 
posed to evaporation. Numerous paths wind between the 
vats, and the whole are kept clean and smooth with the most 
fastidious care. Every family has a number of salt vats, from 
which they obtain their principal means of support. Men, 
women, and children were moving about the paths, attending 
to their respective compartments, and all appeared to be well 
versed in the alomantic art. 

I presume the government pockets all the profit of the 
trade, for the people are miserably poor ; yet they made no 
complaint, and appeared to be happy, having enough to eat, 
and being blessed with a climate that requires no clothing. 
They may, indeed, be better off than the same class are in 
more money-making parts of the world, inasmuch as their 
work is light, and they enjoy themselves in spite of their pov- 
erty. 

Fish are caught in considerable numbers here, and the in- 
habitants are always ready to exchange these for ship-bread, 
beef, pork, and other articles. Our cook, a negro as black as 
anthracite, was here a potentate of no mean pretensions ; for 
daily he might have been seen standing in the galley door, 
stretched up to his full height, with his head thrown back, and 
his wool brushing the smoky roof, while around him stood a 
host of demure and supplicating Bonavistians, begging of him 
the boon of all the spare " slush" and " menavolins." 

It rains at the Cape Verd Islands only three months in the 
year, viz., from the middle of July to the middle of October; 
a peculiarity caused, no doubt, by the dry, hot winds that 
sweep to seaward from the great Sahara of Africa. 

Once, as the captain was about riding out to see the gober- 
nadors villa, it happened that the horse he selected had never 
been properly disciplined, and he could not mount him. Our 
boatswain came along at this time, and said, " I'll ride him !" 
The populace huddled around to see the sport, and seemed to 
think it better for a white man to have his brains dashed out 
than for one of their own colour. The boatswain, whose 
name was Benton, seized the reins close to the neck of the 



&8 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

horse, and, with one spring, bestrode him ; at this the animal 
reared so suddenly that I expected to see him fall backward. 
Benton laid low and held fast to his mane. Presently the 
horse became tired of prancing, came down quietly on his four 
feet, and then started off like a streak of lightning along the 
beach. For some time we saw nothing but a receding cloud 
of dust and sand, and watched in anxious suspense, lest both 
of them should be dashed to pieces among the rocks. In a 
short time our anxiety was relieved by seeing the cloud of 
dust slowly returning, soon followed by Benton, hard at work 
laying on the whip to urge the animal ahead, who was now 
completely subdued. The whole scene put me in mind of a 
monkey holding on to a horse at full speed in a circus ring, 
and the crowd present burst into a roar of laughter. 

" You can ride him now !" cried Benton, vauntingly, witli a 
significant nod of his head towards the captain ; " he sailed gri- 
ping, but I took a reef in his canvass, and eased the weather 
helm ! D — n me if I think there was a prettier sailing craft 
among all the wild devils you used to ride on the Spanish Main !" 

Benton was a notable fellow. It was a matter of doubt 
whether he knew where he was born ; he was illiterate, and 
no navigator, but a thoroughly practical and experienced sea- 
man, had been to all parts of the world, and spoke six different 
languages. According to his own story, he had been engaged 
in privateering, slaving, and pirating, in fact, in almost every 
business ; he was ready for anything still, and, in fact, seemed 
to have shipped with us merely because he suspected we were 
bound on some dare-devil expedition. He spun me long yarns 
about his horse-racing at the Cape, Calcutta, Basfora, Be- 
looches, and Gujerat on the Tapty, where he volunteered to 
ride any wild horse at a moment's warning. His shipmates 
took up all bets made against him, and were sure to win, much 
to the disappointment of the adverse jockeys. When I after- 
ward saw him bury the glittering blade of his cutlass into the 
head of an Australasian savage, and our boat's crew saved 
from a gang of Sooloo pirates solely by his unparalleled in- 
trepidity, I began to suspect that some of his wonderful stories 
might be true, though, I confess, I had previously frequent mis- 
givings. 

So unruly a crew as ours could not well stay at a strange 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 29 

port for any length of time without getting up a fight with the 
natives. I was not greatly surprised, therefore, one day, as I 
was returning to the town from a bathing excursion, to see a 
confused crowd of people gathered about the plaza, evidently 
agitated by some unusual excitement. As I expected, our 
crew was involved in difficulty with the natives, whom they 
were uproariously daring to fight. I soon found out that our 
men were in the wrong, for they had grossly insulted some of 
the females of the native families, and had been very properly 
turned out of doors. 

At first the populace stood at bay, and left our rantipole he- 
roes to swagger at their pleasure ; but, as their numbers in- 
creased, they grew more valiant, and, finally, becoming exas- 
perated at the insults heaped upon them, surrounded our men 
and assailed them at once from every side. A general melee 
followed ; oaths, fists, clubs, and stones succeeded each other, 
and the riot continued until the whole town was in alarm. 
The people ran together from every side, and things began to 
wear a threatening aspect, when an alguacil, followed by a 
guard of soldiers, with muskets and fixed bayonets, was seen 
advancing from the presidio. Our crew, hard pressed already, 
had no disposition to engage the army ; so, making a virtue of 
necessity, they surrendered at discretion, and were marched 
off to prison. 

At the quartel I interceded with my friend the alcalde, rep- 
resenting that it was nothing more than a sailors' brawl, and 
promising that, if he would send my shipmates off to the ves- 
sel, Captain Morrell would take care that they should not 
again break the peace. He appeared convinced by what I 
said, and forthwith despatched an alguacil with orders for the 
soldiers to conduct the crew to the beach. 

The populace were dissatisfied at our easy escape, and it 
was amid their gibes and jeers that our company reached the 
beach. We hailed our vessel for the boats to come, but the 
wind had freshened and our voices could not be heard. There 
we stood, the mob every moment becoming more numerous 
and clamorous. The crew, too, were quite irascible, and it 
was with difficulty that they were kept from renewing the 
fight. At length our boats put off and came to our rescue. 
We embarked amid the execrations of the natives. Our boats, 

C2 



30 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

were deeply laden, and I feared that they would swamp amid 
the combers on the reef ; but, most luckily, we passed through 
with a light drenching, and arrived on board somewhat bruised 
and jaded, but with no bones broken. The crew now vented 
their indignation, and swore that at midnight they would seize 
the Barracoon, turn the cannon, warp the vessel close in with 
a spring upon the cable, and bombard the town at daybreak ! 
Captain Morrell saw fit to save the town, and at 8 P.M. called 
all hands to weigh anchor. Thus ended this belligerant de- 
monstration. 



CHAPTER IV. 

We were soon out at sea, and in the morning found our- 
selves sailing along the eastern side of St. Jago with the dark 
loom of Mayo off the larboard bow. At 2 P.M. we arrived 
opposite a bluff of some elevation, on which stood a flag-staff, 
three mounted cannon, and two negroes in white aprons. We 
turned the bluff close aboard, and anchored in the bay of Porto 
Praya. 

Before us lay the whitewashed walls and battlements of the 
town, situated upon the summit of an elevated rocky plateau, 
that overhangs the bay. There are but two approaches to the 
town, the principal one from the east, and the other from the 
west, by a craggy ghaut, leading from the Valley of Dates. 
This valley is composed of loamy soil, and is covered with a 
growth of date-trees that present a beautiful and cheering sight 
on entering the bay, in striking contrast with the surrounding 
waste of rocks and sand. The inhabitants appeared to be 
more civilized, and wore cleaner cotton shirts and aprons 
than those of Bonavista. 

The island of St. Jago is sixty miles in circumference ; its 
former capital was Ribeira Grande ; but now the gobernador 
resides at Porto Praya. The island is said to be the most 
productive of the group ; and from the variety of fruits dis- 
played in the market, I should think the representation just. 
Oranges and other fruits were quite abundant. I saw a num- 
ber of monkeys, with old and knowing faces, though I do not 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 31 

mention them among the exuberant productions of the island. 
We filled our empty casks with dirty, brackish, and nauseating 
water, obtained from a well after rolling our casks a quarter 
of a mile over the sand. A negro told me that the water was 
" more good" in the rainy season : it could not easily have 
been " more bad" at any season. 

In the night, as the wind was propitious, we weighed anchor, 
set sail, and again sped out to sea. On nearing the equator, 
we experienced a daily succession of sultry calms, cats' paws, 
sudden squalls, and rain showers, accompanied by lightning 
and crashing peals of thunder, that seemed to shake the very 
sea. At one moment we would be rolling about, with the 
sails flapping and chafing heavily against the spars and rig- 
ging, and at the next moment the cry would be, " Clew up i 
and clew down ! and stand by your topsail halliards !" 

On the 27th of April, at 11 A.M., we crossed the equator in 
longitude 19° 11' 15" W. The novices were initiated into 
Neptune's dominions by the usual ceremony of being lathered 
with tar and slush, and shaved with a rusty iron hoop. 

The day after leaving the equator we took the southeast 
trades, and, as we expected to have a steady wind for several 
days, we rigged preventive braces and rolling tackles. For 
some time we had talked about the southeast trades, and now 
that we had entered the region where they prevail, we rejoi- 
ced at the prospect of being wafted rapidly and steadily on- 
ward. The surface of the ocean presented at night the lumi- 
nous appearance of a vast sheet of fire, and as the vessel 
ploughed her course along, the flames, curling away from the 
weather bow, gave a brilliant and beautiful light. This stri- 
king appearance is now generally conceded to be caused by the 
glowing bodies of myriads of Nereis phosphorans, one of the or- 
der of vermes mollusca. 

Near the tropic of Capricorn the trade wind left us, and we 
afterward had variable breezes. In the latitude of 30° S. 
they were strong and blustering from the N.W., accompanied 
by a cross sea. Several of the crew were now on the sick 
list : one had the consumption, another a broken thumb, an- 
other a gouty foot, and another a fever. 

On the 16th of May, at 9 A.M., the group of three islands, 
called Tristan d'Acunha, hove in sight, The three islands are 



32 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



respectively named Tristan, Nightingale, and Inaccessible. 
The former is the largest and most important, and ascends 
gradually, in the form of a conical mountain, until it raises its 
head above the clouds. Its summit is clothed with perpetual 
snow, and on a clear day can be seen, it is said, from a dis- 
tance of sixty miles. The following drawing represents the 
group. 




As we proceeded farther towards the south it became quite 
cool, for it was autumn in the southern hemisphere. We ex- 
pected stormy weather on doubling the Cape, and made prep- 
aration for it by stowing the jolly-boat on deck, setting up the 
rigging, taking in the flying-jib-boom, sending down the royal- 
yards and masts, securing the spars, anchors, and water-casks 
that were on deck, closing the ports, putting on the booby- 
hatches, &c, &c. The brilliant constellation of the Southern 
Cross, and those singular clouds first noticed by Magellan, 
were now in full view. The latter are three small stationary 
clouds situated near each other, two of them light-coloured, 
and the other black. They are an anomaly in the heavens for 
which astronomers as yet cannot account. 

We now bent our course towards the South Pole with all 
expedition, as the captain intended to take a passing look in 
that direction, in the hope of discovering unknown lands. We 
encountered cold, rain, sleet, and strong gales from the west, 
accompanied by mountain seas ; we were forced to lie to sev- 
eral times by the violence of the storm. Reefing and unreef- 
ing was our daily duty ; and by the continual rain, sleet, and 
spray which we encountered, our clothing had all become wet, 
and we had no opportunity to dry anything. As we shivered 
about the deck and yards, casting our eyes fearfully at the bil- 
lows as they threatened to ingulf us, we cursed the fortune 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 33 

that brought us here, and sighed for a return to a tropical cli- 
mate. Hundreds of albatross and cape pigeons hovered 
around and over us as if to mock our misery. The tempest 
and the waves were playthings to them, and no music was 
to them so welcome as the dismal wailing of the wintry 
wind. We caught several cape pigeons by towing a piece 
of fat near the stern and covering them with a scoop net as 
they hovered around. They are white and lead colour, and 
are web-footed ; in other respects resembling our domestic 
pigeons. An albatross resembles a domestic goose, and I be- 
lieve the feathers, down, and quills of the former are quite as 
valuable as those of the latter. At certain seasons they can 
be knocked down with clubs by hundreds on the islands of the 
Southern Ocean. I have caught several with hooks baited with 
fat, towed over the stern of the vessel. Their flesh is dark- 
coloured, and not unpalatable. The flesh of the cape pigeon 
also, in my opinion, equals that of our American teal. The 
cape pigeon and the albatross, when placed on the deck of a 
vessel, under the lee of the weather bulwark, cannot fly until 
they are assisted by being raised so that the wind should strike 
under their wings. These birds fly in flocks, and seem much 
attached to each other. Once I caught a cape pigeon and 
gave him his freedom uninjured, upon which his companions 
fluttered around to embrace him as one risen from the dead, 
all the while cooing, and billing, and holding affectionate con- 
verse with him in their peculiar language. 



CHAPTER V. 

On the 29th of May we were in latitude 47° 18' S., longi- 
tude 31° 09' E. The waves increased in volume, and ran tru- 
ly mountain high. While in the trough of the sea, I looked 
up the slope of a wave, and its apex seemed impending at 
least a hundred feet above me, and our topsails were actually 
becalmed under its lea. 

We were scudding under close-reefed topsails, and it re- 
quired two men at the helm, with very skilful management, to 
keep the vessel to her course. Captain Morrell stood himself 



34 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

at the helm ; a surging billow mounted the taffrail, and tum- 
bled furiously inboard, washing the captain amidships. Luck- 
ily, the ports burst open, and afforded rapid egress for the wa- 
ter. The counter of our vessel was not broad enough for 
scudding in a heavy sea-way. She should have carried her 
beam well aft, with a broad counter over a clean run. From 
this defect in her construction, it became dangerous to scud 
any longer, and we were almost afraid to attempt to lie to, 
but, night coming on, had no alternative, and determined to 
make the trial. The vessel squirmed and quivered like a Span- 
ish slaver with her timbers sawed, all sail set and wet, re- 
treating before a British man-of-war. Captain Morrell stood 
on the quarter, with his speaking-trumpet in hand, that his 
voice might be heard above the roaring of the waters. 

The following orders were rapidly given and as rapidly 
obeyed : " All hands, stations ! Clew up the fore-topsail ! 
haul taught the spilling lines! lay aloft and furl it! Clear 
away the fore-trysail! reeve the sheet! stand by to haul it 
aft ! Stand by the main-topsail braces ! Mr. Button !" " Sir," 
answered the mate. " Is every man at his station V " Ay, 
ay, sir ! all ready !" was the answer. A wave now surged 
by, and as the vessel rose from the trough of a sea, the cap- 
tain resumed : " Starboard your helm ! handsomely ! hand- 
somely ! Slack off the lee main and main-topsail braces ! haul 
taught the weather ones ! Flat aft your fore-trysail and fore- 
topmast staysail sheet! handsomely, your helm !" 

The vessel flew to the wind like a bird, and lay on the wa- 
ter without shipping a spray. My friend Robert Mills acci- 
dentally fell from the main-yard, but, fortunately, his leg 
caught in the ratlines of the main rigging ; this held him fast 
until I seized him, just in time to prevent his rolling overboard. 
This night was truly and terribly dismal. The sea knocked 
and swung the vessel about in a fearful manner, causing the 
deck timbers repeatedly to fetch away from the stanchions. 
Our chests in the forecastle, too, which had not budged before, 
now flew from side to side, causing every man to coil up his 
limbs and stow them away in as compact a space as possible. 

" The bloody chests will thump a hole through the brig's 
side !" said Long Bill, jumping out of his berth and securing 
them in their places. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 35 

Near daybreak I was aroused from a restless sleep by the 
rushing noise of water over the forecastle-deck. We all 
turned out, and heard the watch on deck busy at the pumps. 

" All hands ahoy ! the ship is sinking !" sounded a voice 
down the forecastle, and we were on deck with the quickness 
of thought. All hands tallied on to the double break, two by 
two, pouring two steady streams of water upon the deck. Af- 
ter protracted and laborious pumping, we found that the water 
gained upon us, and the exertions of the crew began to relax. 
We searched for the leak, but entirely in vain. It seemed as 
if the vessel had started all her seams, and leaked all over. 
W T e thought that she must sink, for there was already a great 
deal of water in the hold, and much of the provisions and car- 
go were wet. The boats were cleared away, and everything 
got ready for embarking in them as a last resort. 

We made one more effort to discover the leak, and found, to 
our dismay, that we had started a butt in the fore peak. The 
end of the plank was sprung so much that a large body of wa- 
ter rushed continually in. This was the principal leak, and 
we succeeded in stopping it. After this we freed the vessel 
of water by incessant pumping, and bailing through the fore- 
castle scuttle, and then, by keeping one pump going continu- 
ally, we were enabled to keep her free. Each man took his 
regular turn of an hour at the pump, and, having a large crew, 
there was a prospect of keeping the vessel afloat until we 
could make land. There was some coal in the fore peak, 
which we were afraid would wash aft and choke the limbers : 
this we threw overboard. 

Temperance vessel as ours purported to be, the captain gave 
the crew a glass of grog all round, to revive their drooping 
spirits. I drank nothing of the kind, and got along at least as 
well as my grog-loving mates. 

Our projected exploration at the south pole was completely 
frustrated. We sent down the top-gallant yards and masts, to 
ease the vessel as much as possible, and the wind and sea 
abating the next day, we made sail and steered for Mauritius, or 
the Isle of France. We were anxious to reach it as speedily 
as possible, and yet were afraid to " carry on," for fear of 
"blowing the brig to pieces." Our crew were nearly used up 
by their labour at the pumps, the music of which, for a long 



36 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

series of days, was our vesper and matin song ; every man 
learned right heartily to curse his " hour at the pump." 

On the 11th of June, at seven P.M., the cheering cry of 
" Land ho !" started all the " sogers" from their skulking- places. 
We began to respire more freely as we looked upon the dark 
loom of the mountain lands of Bourbon, with its burning vol- 
cano bearing N.W. by N. half N. The next day we were in 
sight of the rocky peaks and ridges on the S.W. side of Mau- 
ritius. For two days we were provokingly becalmed, and it 
was not until the morning of the 14th that we anchored near 
the bell buoy (so called from a bell upon it that sends forth its 
warning when the sea is high), at the mouth of the bay of 
Port Louis. We had powder enough in our magazine to blow 
up the town, with the fleet of shipping. A government barge 
came alongside and took it to the fort for safe keeping ; and 
then we sailed between a line of buoys up to the town, where 
we secured the vessel alongside of a sunken hulk that was fill- 
ed with stones and formed a kind of wharf. 

All hands rejoiced at being freed at last from pumping, and 
their drooping spirits were again revived as they gave three 
hearty cheers for a safe arrival on terra firma. 



CHAPTER VI. 

The crew went en masse to the American consul, and enter- 
ed their solemn protests of the unseaworthy state of the ves- 
sel, and a board of survey was forthwith appointed. 

The cargo was all discharged, the vessel dismantled, and 
her hull thrown upon its beam ends. The copper was worked 
in waves fore and aft, and, in many places, had nearly started 
off, the nails having worked loose and fallen out. A gang of 
negro slaves stripped off the copper, and we now had a fair 
view of the bottom. The oakum was rotten and loose, from 
the garboard streak to the wales, and there were two large 
seams in the bow, near the fore-foot, where the planking had 
started and the oakum been pressed in, leaving an aperture 
large enough for any one to thrust in his hand. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 37 

The vessel was said to be " copper fastened !" but we found 
only a few copper spikes and no bolts ; all the rest were iron. 
One of the floor timbers was rotten, and she was slightly con- 
structed throughout, being destitute of knees, and almost with- 
out breast-hooks. It was regarded as providential that we 
reached the port. 

The survey decided that, in her present condition, the 
vessel should be condemned ; but that, by being thoroughly 
overhauled, she could be made seaworthy. To make her so, 
they decided that she should be calked, pitched, covered with 
tarred paper, sheathed over the latter with an inch and a half 
pine plank, which was to be well secured by large copper 
spikes passing through the original plank into the timbers ; 
this latter sheathing also to be calked, pitched, covered with 
tarred paper, and sheathed with heavy new copper. Two 
powerful breast-hooks, made of teak-wood, were also to be 
placed in the stem, and two in the stern, secured by large 
copper bolts passing through the stem and stern-posts ; cop- 
per bolts were also to be run through the keel, and twelve 
wrought-iron knees under the main-deck beams. 

Here was an extensive list of repairs, involving nearly as 
much expense as the original cost of the vessel. It was a 
state of things which had not been anticipated. We had on 
board only money enough to pay port charges and other im- 
mediate expenses. The captain wavered for a time as to the 
course he should pursue ; he was sure of censure in any event, 
and was quite discouraged at the turn matters had taken. He 
thought of retracing his steps and abandoning the voyage ; 
but the time already wasted urged him on, and he decided to 
have the repairs executed, and give a bottomry bond for the 
payment of the cost. 

Accordingly, the ship carpenters went to work. They were 
a gang of negro slaves, superintended by Moorish mechanics. 
They executed their work faithfully, but slowly. All mate- 
rials for repairing vessels are brought from a great distance, 
and are very expensive, especially as the business of repair- 
ing is principally monopolized by a wealthy Frenchman. 

The crew are busy on shore, painting the spars, overhaul- 
ing and refitting the rigging, making a boarding netting, ma- 
king awnings and sails for the boats, calking and painting 

D 



38 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

them, trimming the oars and sweeps, and in various other use- 
ful and essential occupations. The services of our armorer 
were also called into requisition. He made a pair of patent 
trusses for the fore and main-yards, and a set of iron futtock- 
shrouds. So great was his skill at this business, that he was 
offered high wages to remain at the port ; but he had his eye 
upon Darco's island, and refused to leave us. 

It was nearly three months before the repairs were com- 
pleted, and during this interval I performed various excursions 
to different parts of the island. Mauritius is divided into nine 
departments, and the total population is 92,634. Of this num- 
ber I presume that the negro slaves comprise seven tenths. 

The city of Port Louis at this time contains a population 
of 26,615, and is a place of considerable importance. It is 
divided into three parts. The first and most important sec- 
tion is English or French Town, situated in the centre, at the 
foot of the bay, on a piece of land which rises with a gradual 
slope until it reaches the back of the town, where it rises ab- 
ruptly into a mountain covered with underwood. The houses 
are two or three stories high, substantially constructed of 
stone. Strongly-built gates open into the courtyards, and 
present the appearance of being able to resist a siege. Many 
of the houses are plastered and painted on the outside, and in 
form and construction resemble those of the Havana. Plas- 
ter on the outside of a building in a tropical climate remains 
perfect many years. A broad, paved street leads from a sub- 
stantial stone quay, at the foot of the bay, up to the govern- 
or's house, which is a large pile of stone, with wings, piaz- 
zas, and a fenced courtyard in front. On the left side of the 
last-named street, as you walk towards the government house, 
is situated the theatre, a handsome building of some architec- 
tural pretensions. The performances are in the style of the 
Italian opera, the language used being the French. The dress 
circle exhibited quite an assemblage of the black eyes and 
languishing countenances of the belles of Mauritius. 

On a street east of the theatre is a fine market, well sup- 
plied with fruits, vegetables, meats, and confectionary. Ne- 
gresses and mulatto women are the principal hucksters. In 
the town there are three Masonic Lodges, one Royal College, 
a Chamber of commerce, one valuable Library, one Episcopal 



IX THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 39 

church, one Baptist, one Methodist, and one Catholic. There 
is also a public bath. The population is composed principally 
of whites, engaged in various kinds of business, mainly tra- 
ding. 

In the suburbs, near the Champ de Mars, are several coun- 
try villas built of wood, embowered in tropical foliage and 
furnished with ornamental parterres and fences. An aque- 
duct, constructed at considerable expense, supplies the town 
with pure water from a mountain stream. This is one of the 
finest works and the greatest blessings that the place enjoys. 
Numerous costly stone fountains ornament the grounds in 
different parts of the town. On the quay is an obelisk, with 
an adjutage that sends a stream of water four inches in diam- 
eter into the briny waters of the bay. Vessels, if they choose, 
may here receive their supply of water gratis ; but, by paying 
for the labour, they can have it brought alongside in large 
scows provided with forcing pumps. 

To the east, and joining English Town, is situated Malabar 
Town or Camp. The houses are meaner, and constructed of 
less substantial materials than those we have just described. 
This department is peopled by Malabars, Moors, Lascars, Ma- 
lays, Arabians, &c. Among this population you see many an 
eye through which gleams a pirate's spirit, and many a visage 
with a villain's stamp. I remarked that several Malabars 
wore light iron rings on their naked ankles, and I was inform- 
ed that it was a sign of their having been banished from their 
native country to this island for some offence against the laws. 
The Malabars are Mussulmen, black, tall, slim, and active, 
with keen black eyes and long black hair. I have frequently 
seen them, at daybreak, performing their prescribed ablutions, 
nearly naked, in the basins that surround the fountains. 

On the west side of English Town is the third department, 
called Negro Town, or Black Town or Camp. The houses 
here are meaner than any heretofore described, and the popu- 
lation is composed of negroes, embracing both slaves and free- 
men. The negroes of the island were once leagued in a se- 
cret plot to massacre the whites. They were led on by a 
Malagasche chief of some ability, who had been kidnapped 
from his home. They were thwarted, however, and reduced 
to subjection. 



40 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Notwithstanding Mauritius is in possession of the English, 
everything is stamped with the impress of the French charac- 
ter, and the French language is universally spoken. The 
French inhabitants are jealous of British authority, and par- 
ticularly sensitive on the subject of British interference with 
their slaves. It has been reported that, if the slaves were set 
free, the French would rebel ; for any such emergency the 
government has prepared, for a standing army of British 
troops were stationed here in force sufficient to crush all re- 
bellion and enforce obedience. 

In the rear of English Town, between it and the mountain, 
lays a grass-covered plain, with a monument in the centre. 
This is the Champ de Mars, the grand parade-ground of the 
town. Here, every Sunday afternoon, the government band 
sends forth strains of sweet and stirring music, echoing through 
the town and over the bay, and calling out scores of loungers 
to the pleasant promenade. Here, too, many a tale of love 
is told by the beaux and belles, with whom this is a favourite 
strolling-ground. Parties of both sexes rode about the plain 
in carriages and on horseback. The carriages are driven by 
negroes, and followed close behind by negro footmen, more 
than half naked. The negroes have their Champ de Mars as 
well as the whites, though they only use it for a dancing- 
ground ; for every fair night they assemble in circles, male 
and female, old and young, on a hill overlooking Black Town, 
and dance round blazing fires, stamping, shouting, laughing, 
and singing in time to the beat of their " rude minstrels." In 
their songs the French, English, and Malagasche languages 
are strangely intermixed. It was a favourite amusement for 
our crew to attend upon these entertainments. 

On the west side of the bay is a broad avenue, lined with 
rows of stately shade-trees. This leads to the cemetery, 
which is a walled enclosure, with an ornamental gateway, and 
contains a great many handsome monuments, through which 
I strolled one day in company with a citizen of the town. 
The inscriptions on most of the tombs were in French, and a 
cross, planted in front of each, denoted that the Catholic reli- 
gion prevailed. On most of the tombs stood vases, and beside 
them grew choice shrubbery and flowers. Most of the ladies 
who entered the cemetery carried flowers, which they depos- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 41 

ited in the urns upon different tombs, and then cleaned and ar- 
ranged the flowering plants which grew around them, and had 
been planted by their own fair hands, in memory of their de 
parted friends. 

Wending our silent way through the winding paths, contem- 
plating this abode of the dead, we were suddenly startled by 
the sound of a low, plaintive voice. Turning quickly round, 
we beheld the form of a beautiful girl through the thick foli- 
age. She was dressed in deep mourning; her countenance 
was wan, her head uncovered, and long, black, glossy hair 
flowed round her neck. She was kneeling upon the sod in 
front of an ornamental tomb ; her eyes were fixed upon the 
cross and flower-vase — around which was fastened a wreathed 
bouquet — and with clasped hands she was pouring out her soul 
in earnest prayer. She could not have counted more than 
seventeen visits of the tropical sun, and was, perhaps, mourn- 
ing over her departed lover. We retreated by the way we 
had come, for fear of breaking the loneliness of this touching 
scene. Here, also, amid the gaudy tombs of the Creoles, stood 
the modest monument in memory of our fair and celebrated 
countrywoman, Harriet Newell. 

One day my friend W and myself ascended the mount- 
ain in the rear of the town, and had a splendid bird's-eye 
view of the surrounding country, embracing the sugar planta- 
tions, the town, with its fleet of shipping, and the hoary head 
of Peter Botte, towering aloft in all his grandeur. We stood 
on the brink of a rocky parapet, and looked down into the val- 
ley of " fan-palms," where we saw the " ruins ;" and, casting 
our eyes in another direction, they rested upon the esplanade 
of the " Thumb," and then upon the signal-staff of Discovery 
Mountain. This is classic ground, and has been graphically 
described in the touching tale of Paul and Virginia. 

On the mountain we encountered some very large yellow 
spiders, striped with green and black. Their webs, nearly as 
large and strong as small fishing-nets, and suspended in the 
open spaces between the underwood, frequently and seriously 
retarded our progress. They belonged to the species of Aranm 
fasciata, and are fierce and warlike. 

D 2 



42 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER VII. 

One day I rode to the westward of the town, following a 
good macadamized road, on the sides of which were several 
rural villas, embowered in tropical foliage. A great many ne- 
groes were making their toilsome way towards the town, car- 
rying heavy loads of fire-wood and fruit upon their heads. I 
crossed Grand River, where I saw Mussulmen standing in the 
water up to their knees, performing their ablutions ; and round 
about them were dusky girls, hard at work washing clothes by 
beating them with clubs upon smooth, flat rocks. 

In a healthy and pleasant situation, on a commanding emi- 
nence, I entered a walled enclosure, in which stood the Hotel 
Dieu, an oblong structure, two stories high, with a flat prome- 
nade roof, and built of stone in very substantial style. Orna- 
mental shade trees were scattered about, and the walks and 
surrounding grounds were kept in the most fastidious order. 
A well of excellent water, and a large stone bath, cemented 
inside, were objects that immediately attracted my attention. 
The invalids were very comfortably situated, and were dress- 
ed in uniform coarse, clean clothing, marked with black letters. 

The inhabitants of Mauritius are polite and social. I acci- 
dentally fell in with Mr. D , an old French gentleman, who 

had formerly resided in St. Domingo. He had been acquaint- 
ed with my father, and invited me to dine at his villa. I com- 
plied, found his situation extremely pleasant, and was forced 
by his daughters to remain, though in my travelling dress, to a 
private soiree. I found a gay circle assembled, and everything 
went off very much as at similar parties at home. The com- 
pany was seated at first on tabourets, the ladies generally wear- 
ing tasteful gossamer pallas, and the room being handsomely 
ornamented with garlands and candelabras. Conversation 
soon became animated, and the company began to promenade, 
the music struck up a capriccioso, and the whole assemblage 
whirled in the mazy circles of the couranto-coupee. At the con- 
clusion of this dance a fair girl sung a doloroso-divolo, accom- 
panied by her brother on the flute. The company soon with- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 43 

drew to the paradrom to partake of refreshments, and then 
dispersed. 

In the morning I was awakened by birds carolling their mat- 
in song close to the latticed casement of my chamber. I 
arose, and joined a small riding party, mounted upon horses 
of true Arabian blood, and had a fine gallop over a good 
macadamized road. On the right, crossing a valley, was a 
weather-beaten, arched aqueduct ; and the road was bordered 
by several handsome country residences. Turning to the left, 
we entered Shaddoc Grove, and dismounted beside a church 
and thridded numerous walks, bordered by a wood of tropical 
trees, whose leaves and branches met over our heads, forming 
natural arbours, which were as beautiful as they proved refresh- 
ing. Graceful forests overhung the banks of the stream, dotted 
with miniature islands. Capacious stone couches were placed 
here and there, where we rested ourselves and inhaled the 
grateful fragrance wafted from the natural bowers. . This was 
Pamplamousef, or Government Garden. 

The coasting trade of the Isle of France is principally car- 
ried on by small vessels built like schooners, called chassema- 
ree ; they have a* sharp bow and stern, and are rigged with 
lateen sails. There are no wharves in the harbour of Port 
Louis for the accommodation of ships, so that they must lay 
moored in parallel lines in the stream, with their bows turned 
towards the town. Loading and -unloading are effected by 
means of large flat-bottomed lighters. The hurricane season 
is from November to the latter part of April, and then the bay 
is exposed to the tempest, and affords protection for only a 
few ships. 

The exports of Mauritius are sugar, coffee, indigo, cotton, 
nutmegs, and cloves. Sugar, however, is the great staple, and 
of this large quantities are annually exported to Australia. 
Ebony is abundant, and is used for fire-wood ; it is superior to 
hickory for this purpose. Two crops of wheat and two of In- 
dian corn have been raised in one year on the most favoured 
farms. The principal part of the bread-stuff used in the island, 
however, is introduced from Bourbon. All the fresh beef is 
brought from Madagascar. The cattle are small, and have a 
hump upon their backs. When a " cattle trader 1 ' arrives, quite 
an animated scene takes place. The cattle are hoisted over- 



44 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

board, one by one, and forced to swim ashore between a line 
of spars. 

One day I dined with Captain P. on board the ship Rosalie. 
While we sat at the table, a rough, honest-looking man came 
down the companion-way, and said to the captain, " I heard 
you wanted a mate, sir 1 ?" 

" So I do," replied the captain ; " but I want one who is a 
good navigator ;" at the same time glancing at the man with 
evident distrust of his qualification in this respect. 

The applicant, with a little appearance of anger, answered, 
" I am a navigator." 

"No doubt," said the captain, "you're a good seaman, but I 
want a man who can work a lunar and take an azimuth." 

" I can do both," replied the fellow, bluntly and firmly. 

The captain seemed taken aback by this reply, and said, 
" How do you work the time to find the longitude by chro- 
nometer ?" 

"I take the altitude, the latitude, and the polar distance," 
said the man ; " then I find the secant of the latitude, the co- 
secant of the polar distance, the co-sine of the half-sum, and the 
sine of the remainder." 

" Right !" said the captain ; " what vessel did you come here 
in?" 

" The Hindoo brig Pestongee Bomingee," replied the man. 

" I'll give you an answer to-morrow," said the captain. 

A few days after I accidentally met the man, and he told me 
the captain had employed him. He said he was born in Con- 
necticut; had run away from home and shipped on board a 
whaling vessel bound to the Pacific Ocean ; deserted his ves- 
sel at the Sandwich Islands ; shipped on board a vessel bound 
to Canton as second mate ; thence embarked in an opium 
smuggler, and, finally, landed at Bombay ; since which time he 
had been " knocking about" the Indian Ocean. He was a thor- 
ough Yankee, and amply provided with the Yankee virtues of 
blunt honesty and great shrewdness. 

During the time that our vessel was undergoing repairs, our 
crew were encamped in an old barn or shed upon the wharf, 
where they slung their hammocks. The cook had his galley 
rigged up hard by, and did duty the same as at sea. Captain 
M. encamped here too, and took it " rough and tumble" with 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 45 

the crew. The supercargo lived in town, and seldom came 
in sight. Our quarters were rude and uncouth, and we were 
greatly annoyed by cockroaches and rats. The captain some- 
times assisted in the work, and I myself became quite an ex- 
perienced "ship-painter." 

H. B. M. ship of the line Melville lay moored in the bay. 
On the 12th of August, at 8 A.M., she fired a royal salute, and 
was covered with flags and streamers, making a splendid dis- 
play, in honour of the coronation of William the Fourth. 

All the public buildings and all the shipping in port display- 
ed their colours. The day was observed as a gala day, and 
closed with a grand ball at the government house. 

Our vessel had all her spars up, and was advancing rapidly 
towards completion. We, too, had hoisted all our colours in 
honour of the day ; but the keen eye of the captain scanned 
the flags displayed by the Melville, and among them he saw 
the ensign of every nation with whom Britain was at peace, 
except that of the United States. He considered this an in- 
sult offered to the flag of his country, and forthwith hauled 
down our colours. A midshipman was sent in a boat by Ad- 
miral Sir John Gore to inquire the cause of this strange man- 
oeuvre. The captain told him the reason bluntly, and he bore 
back the answer to the admiral. He had scarcely reached the 
vessel, when the American ensign rose and floated in the 
breeze over the starboard quarter of the Melville, and we again 
hoisted our colours. 



CHAPTER VIIL 

One morning we were startled by the sound of guns, and it 
proved to be the Melville cannonading the fort at the mouth 
of the bay. The fort returned gun for gun, and a brisk action 
ensued. The Melville, as flag ship, determined to hold her own, 
and blazed away broadside after broadside. For a time the 
vessel and fort were obscured by the smoke. But at length it 
became evident that some dangerous breach had been made 
m the ramparts, as the guns of the fort began to slacken their 



46 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

fire. The boats of the Melville were instantly manned and 
landed near the fort, where the men were formed in line by 
their respective officers, who cheered them to the onset. Amid 
a grand flourish of martial music and three hurrahs, the troops 
rushed with coolness and courage into the very jaws of death. 
Volley upon volley was poured into their ranks from the em- 
brasures of the fort, sensibly thinning their ranks at every dis- 
charge. Still they pressed onward, until with scaling-ladders 
they had mounted the breach and planted the British standard 
upon the rampart, amid a fearful clashing of cutlasses, a crack- 
ing of muskets and pistols, and apparently the groans of the 
wounded and dying. It turned out to be a " sham fight," for 
the purpose of instructing the men in the most improved modes 
of slaughtering their fellow-beings. The affair passed off 
harmlessly, with the exception that several men lost their 
whiskers, and one was knocked down by a wad. Save these 
disasters, the day was bloodless. The man-of-war's men called 
our crew " apple Jonathans," and when the two parties came 
in contact on shore, they frequently had slight skirmishes. The 
former had threatened to come down some night and drive us 
out of our hammocks. Sure enough, one night we had snugly 
stowed ourselves in our hammocks, when the sound of voices 
in considerable numbers approached. " The man-of-war's 
men !" shouted all hands. Every one seized a club, sallied 
out pellmell, and fell upon the foe in right good earnest. A 
confused gibberish of foreign tongues at once convinced us 
that we had made a mistake. We entered into a parley, and 
it soon appeared that we had fallen upon a crew of thick-set, 
broad-shouldered, round-sterned, double-fisted Dutchmen, who 
had innocently approached our camp to hail their ship that lay 
in the bay. We laboured under the difficulty of not being able 
to make them understand a word we said ; and so, taking us, 
not without reason, to be a set of piratical cut-throats, they 
bawled out most lustily for their boat to come to their rescue. 

The repairs upon our vessel were now completed, and she 
was again perfectly seaworthy. 

We hauled out into the stream, all ready to put to sea. Our 
crew had been increased by the shipment of men belonging to 
different nations. Our armament had also been fortified by the 
addition of two twelve and two eighteen pound cannon, togeth- 



Itf THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 47 

er with numerous boarding-pikes, cutlasses, lances, &c Our 
provisions and everything- else were replenished, the same as 
if the expedition had been originally fitted out from Mauritius ; 
indeed, it seemed as if we had just commenced our voyage. 
That part of the hold immediately forward of the cabin had 
been floored off and berthed for the accommodation of the new 
portion of the crew. This was now called the steerage. Here 
were my quarters, and I was now as comfortably " fixed" as any 
one on board. The crack appearance of our vessel, her saucy- 
looking model, and the graceful taper of her spars, won the ad- 
miration of all. Her warlike appearance caused the citizens 
of Port Louis to suspect that we were bound on some piratical 
or slaving expedition ; and this was soon the general rumour 
throughout the place. Indeed, so much had 1 heard about it, 
that I was almost persuaded that I had become leagued with 
a band of desperate villains, who were bound on some pirati- 
cal expedition. Sailors who came to ship with us wore very 
knowing looks, and gave us to understand that they "knew 
what sort of a craft we were." 

I had before heard that many of the British inhabitants of the 
island were very ignorant in regard to America ; and, although 
somewhat skeptical at first, I now became convinced by posi- 
tive proof. Among the many visiters who came off in small 
boats to look at the " Yankee craft," happened to be a British 
corporal and his wife. The latter, a very sensible and socia- 
ble woman, asked me one day, quite seriously, if the Ameri- 
can ladies were black ; and remarked that I could not have 
been born in America, for I spoke very excellent English ! 

On the 2d of September the gentlemanly port officer, Mr. 
Coombs, the pilot, and a party of police officers, armed with 
cutlasses and lanterns, came on board. The crew were ranged 
m line on the quarter-deck, and Mr. Coombs called off their 
names, while the police searched the hold and other places in 
quest of runaways. Into places where there was not room to 
get their bodies, they thrust their cutlass blades. After they 
had satisfied themselves that all was right, we slipped our 
moorings and put to sea under full sail. We had not been 
long at sea, when one of the sailors went to the jolly-boat, 
which lay bottom upward on top of the long-boat, and said, 
" Come out, Bill, they're gone." At this a strange head was 



48 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

thrust out, complaining of the close proximity of the officer's 
cutlass, and soon the body to which it belonged made its ap- 
pearance, large as life, on deck. He called himself " Man-o'- 
war Bill," and was a runaway, who had secreted himself on 
board by consent of some of the crew, and was soon enrolled 
as one of their number. 

The crew were now assembled and divided into three watch- 
es, under first, second, and third officers. Thus we had eight 
hours below and far less severe labour than had before fallen 
to our lot. The principal duty of the watch was to handle the 
sails, keep the vessel in order, and keep themselves clean. 
There was none of the hard and disagreeable work so com- 
mon on board of ordinary vessels. The reader would have 
imagined that we were a party of pleasure, bound on a voyage 
to the Pacific Ocean, could he have seen the pleasant counte- 
nances of the crew, and their clean duck trousers and striped 
shirts, as they sat on and around the windlass, smoking pipes, 
singing songs, and spinning sea-yarns. 

We were now in the Indian Ocean ; and many were the 
speculations of the crew as to our final destination and the ob- 
ject of our voyage, for the captain always kept these things 
closely to himself. For two days we steared S. by E. ; then 
we altered our course to E.S.E., with a strong gale from the 
W. At latitude 30° S., longitude 101° E., we took a steady 
S.E. wind ; changed out course to N.E., and rigged preventive 
braces. On the 26th of September, latitude 21° 03' S., longi- 
tude 111 10' E., we had a strong gale, accompanied by a 
rough sea. " Sail ho !" shouted the look-out at the mast-head. 
It was a ship, steering the same course as ourselves. She 
drifted broad-off, and could not work to windward with our 
craft. She did not like our rakish and piratical appearance, 
and quickly set all sail to escape our neighbourhood. 

The moment the captain saw this, he " tucked on" top-gal- 
lant sails, and walked towards the stranger at a rapid pace. 

" I told you," whispered Man-o'-war Bill, " that I knew what 
kind of an expedition we were bound on. The skipper didn't 
tuck on to'-gallant sails for nothing; the next order 'ill be, 
1 Trice up the ports, and show the teeth !' " 

The trite saying that a " stern chase is a long chase," here 
held true. It was late in the afternoon when we overhauled 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 49 

the stranger, and upon finding that she could not escape, she 
backed her mizzen-topsail, and displayed the British ensign. 
We shot under her lee quarter and hailed. Her crew of over 
twenty men, dressed in blue trousers and red flannel shirts, 
stood ranged along the lee bulwarks gazing at us. She was 
a handsome ship, and whale boats hung on her quarters and 
stern. The wind and sea had increased, and the vessels cur- 
vetted about at such a rate that we were forced to keep at a 
respectful distance. 

"What a clean sweep a cannister of musket-balls from the 
bow-gun would make of them ' red-shirts !' " whispered Man- 
o'-war Bill. 

" The scamps are greasy whalers, and wouldn't be worth 
the shot," replied " Bully," the sea-lion hunter : " we can't 
spare room for more than one cask of oil to light the fore- 
castle." 

We hauled our wind, swept close under her stern, and steer- 
ed our course, so that at night she was out of sight. 

The next day we got up the muskets, pistols, cutlasses, 
boarding-pikes, and cartridge-boxes, and one of each were 
given to every man. Every day our decks presented a bust- 
ling and warlike appearance ; for all hands were up to their 
eyes in business, calking the arm-chests and covering them 
with painted canvass, making canvass covers for the muzzles 
of the cannon and lead ones for the breeches ; we made also 
tackles, lashings, tompions, quoins, cannon and musket car- 
tridges, cannisters of musket-balls and grape, powder-horns, 
cuirasses, cutlass-scabbards, and a canvass awning. The lat- 
ter reached from the fore to the main mast, and was intended 
to answer two purposes : first, as a protection from missiles, 
and then as a shelter to the crew from the sun and dews while 
sleeping on deck, and at other times. The fore and main tops 
were each fortified with an arm-chest containing loaded mus- 
kets. The chests on deck contained two muskets for each 
man, and several rifles with percussion locks for aiming at 
distant objects. The boarding netting was seized to the rail 
and the stanchions were ready for shipping; the boarding- 
pikes were also ranged in racks along the monkey-rail. The 
bulwarks were pierced with five sweep holes on each side ; 
we could thus, with our sweeps, propel the vessel two or three 

E 



50 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

miles an hour. Every day the crew were drilled in the use of 
their implements of war. One day we would practise with 
the cannon, and send balls skipping over the surface of the 
ocean ; and on another we would place a target upon the end 
of the fore-yard arm, at which each man fired his musket un- 
til he became marksman enough to put a ball through the 
" bull's eye." Thus, with a large and well-drilled crew, and 
a crack vessel, bristling with arms, we soon became no con- 
temptible foe. 



CHAPTER IX. 

On the 3d of October, at midnight, the ocean looked white 
like milk. We sounded, and got no bottom with sixteen fath- 
oms' line ; but we lay to until daybreak, when we again made 
sail, and soon saw the south side of Sandal- wood Island ; off 
which lay two small islands, one high and the other low. 

Sandal- wood Island received its name from the quantity of 
that timber with which it is said to abound. But little is 
known of the island or people. Report says that the Portu- 
guese cut sandal-wood here many years ago. The natives 
took up the belief that the souls of their departed relatives re- 
sided in these trees, and that the avaricious foreigners were 
transporting them away to be burned up ; so they rose en 
masse and drove the foreigners from the island, and thus pre- 
vented the destruction of the souls of their friends. 

We steered to the north, along the west side of the island. 
A reef, upon which the sea broke, lay three miles from the 
beach, but the water was smooth inside the reef. The surface 
of the land was beautifully undulating, verdant, and bespangled 
with woodlands and prairies. The coast was rocky, with here 
and there a white sand-beach. Some of the rocks rose ab- 
ruptly from the ocean into towering pinnacles, looking not un- 
like ruined castles and monuments of departed glory. We 
saw two large devil or diamond fish floating on the surface of 
the ocean, with two points of their bodies rising above the 
water. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 51 

We were becalmed one day, and the next saw the islands of 
Sumbawa, Floris, and Camada. We entered the Straits of 
Sapy. The land on each side rose into mountains, and was 
alternately rocky, clayey, sandy, and barren. Not a human 
being could be seen ; but on the eastern shore rose something 
resembling a ship's mast, with strands of rigging bleaching 
white upon the craggy rocks. Two remarkable rocky islets 
lay near the eastern shore. A powerful current set to the 
south, dead against us. We brought out our sweeps, and, after 
battling the element some time, passed safely through. 

The next morning we lay becalmed, in the sea of Celebes, 
within sight of the Island of Floris. 

The whole firmament became covered with dense clouds, as 
dark as Erebus, that emitted vivid flashes of chain lightning. 
At length they sank down and slowly resolved themselves into 
the shape of funnels, with the points pendant. Nearly a dozen 
of these formed around us, some nearly overhead, and others 
at a great distance away. They appeared to have a powerful 
affinity for the water of the ocean. One of them was drawn 
down so far that it seemed as if it would meet the sea ; but, 
with a sudden motion, it drew itself back again. We were 
fearful lest some of them should fall upon us, and all hands 
were on deck watching their movements and wishing for a 
breeze to carry us out of their reach. The sails lay heavily 
upon the masts, and everything seemed hushed in death amid 
the thick and terrible darkness. A crashing thunder peal burst 
from the sky, and down came one of the big black funnels, as 
it seemed directly over our devoted heads ! 

" Man the sweeps !" was the order. 

We plied them with power, and, straining every nerve, crept 
out of its reach. 

As the funnel elongated, it described a curvilinear track 
through the air, and presented to our view a column of water, 
twenty feet in diameter, pouring down one vast and steady 
stream from the heavens. It struck the ocean half a mile 
from us, and dreadful was the roaring and boiling of the wa- 
ter, while a white mist rose up and encircled the lower part of 
the column. The sea, for a long distance around, was vio- 
lently agitated, and heavy rollers came surging in upon us. 
It poured down a steady stream for twenty minutes, when it 



52 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

appeared to have exhausted itself and was cut off at the clouds ; 
presenting the singular and interesting sight of a column of 
water descending unconnected with the clouds, until it gradu- 
ally disappeared amid the foam and mist that rose from the 
troubled sea. 

The following drawing represents this water-spout as taken 



by myself. Immediately after it had subsided, a violent gust 
struck us. We clewed up the light sails and let go the topsail 
halliards. It soon passed over, doing no harm except blowing 
away the main-royal and flying-jib. 

In the afternoon we were coasting the north side of Floris, 
to the eastward, and sailed over a white coral rock, with fif- 
teen or twenty feet of water upon it. We saw several more 
of a similar character, and kept a vigilant look-out at the mast- 
head, for there are no correct charts of these seas. We 
passed a very large sperm whale. 

The next day we entered the strait between the northeast 
end of Floris and the south side of Raja and other small islets 
not laid down upon the charts. The land was elevated on 
both sides, and covered with verdure. 

A fore-topsail schooner hove in sight ; we bore down upon 
her with all speed. As we neared her, she most provokingly 
transformed herself into a little, white, rocky islet ! However, 
to console us for this disappointment, or deception, two bona 
fide sails now rose on the horizon. We immediately gave 
them chase, and they fled with all expedition for the nearest 
land. They were Malay proas, and the race was well con- 
tested. The crew stood round the bow, on the tiptoe of ex- 
pectation, wondering what was to come next, when the helms- 
man reported that the " old man" (the captain) said we were 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 53 

in want of coffee, and could probably get a supply from the 
proas. 

"Tell that to the marines," said Man-o'-war Bill, with a 
knowing phiz ; " he's after another kind of coffee." 

" You're always grumbling," said he of the helm. 

" Ay," said another, " you told us the same story about the 
whaler, ha! ha! ha!" 

"That's another thing," replied Bill; "the whaler hadn't 
what we wanted ; but the proas may be loaded with gold-dust 
and nutmegs." 

The wind now fell away, and the proas, with all sweeps out, 
were fast receding from us ; indeed, one had neared the land, 
and was quite out of our reach. 

" Clear away the six-pounder !" shouted the captain. 

" Ay, ay, sir !" answered Benton. 

" What I said wasn't true, eh f said Bill, tauntingly, to his 
shipmates ; " you'll see now — ha ! ha !" 

" Give her a short shot !" shouted the captain. 

" Ay, ay, sir !" The gun was fired, and the ball struck the 
water short of the proa, which still retreated, plying her 
sweeps with renewed vigour. 

" Give her a shot from the eighteen-pounder forward of the 
bow !" said the captain ; " that will give her to understand 
what taking in sail means." 

The order was obeyed, and the discharge acted like magic ; 
the proa took in her sweeps, hoisted the Dutch ensign, about 
ship, and steered directly for us. As she drew near, w r e man- 
ned our boats, well armed, and boarded her. She was man- 
ned by a crew of Malays ; all naked, athletic men, of a copper 
colour, with keen black eyes, long, jet-black hair, and their 
mouths coloured red by chewing the areca nut. 

Our captain inquired for coffee ; the Malays handed him 
Dutch papers. He did not want these, and there being no 
coffee on board, he embarked in the boats to return. The 
Malays were so rejoiced at getting rid of him so easily, that 
they, most generously, threw into our boats, as a thank-offer- 
ing, a mat of tamarinds, one of raw cotton, a live goat, a live 
monkey, two cockatoos, and a Malay fighting cock. 

Captain Morrell offered pay for all these things, but they re- 
fused to take anything ; he then invited them on board to ru- 

E -Z 



54 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

ceive presents in return ; but they refused to come, making 
many excuses as to their not having time, &c, and finally 
made sail on their course, while we did the same in a contrary 
direction. 

We coasted along two beautiful, fruitful islands, the eastern 
end of one of which resembled a plum-cake, with low land 
running off to the westward. 

We now launched out upon the Banda Sea, steering N.E. 
The next day we caught a glimpse of another proa ; but she 
gave us a wide berth, and soon vanished. The next day we 
ran close in with the Island of Booro, and coasted along with- 
in a quarter of a mile of its western beach. The surface of 
the island was diversified with hills and valleys, and elevated 
mountains, covered with a forest to the water's edge. Several 
little coves looked as if they might afford good anchorage. 
We saw Malays in canoes, but they seemed afraid to come off. 
To 'seaward several sperm whales spouted, and we passed a 
tremendous green turtle, floating with his head above water. 

On the 22d of October, at the break of day, we entered the 
spacious Bay of Cajeli, and anchored at its foot, in ten fathoms 
water, with a muddy bottom, close to, and directly in front of, 
the city of Cajeli. On our right was a square fort, with four 
conspicuous, white, bastion towers, one at each angle, and 
connected by low battlements and ramparts. In the centre, on 
an elevated staff, w r aved the Dutch ensign. To the left of the 
fort was a small river, and just beyond that was situated the 
principal part of the city, presenting to our view its thatched 
cottages, mosques, and minarets, interspersed between which 
waved the thick foliage of the tropics. 

Not a sailing craft of any kind could be seen except one 
proa, and half a dozen canoes that lay upon the beach. We 
saw no person, but all seemed hushed into the sleep of death. 
Gazing at the silent city, we imagined that some Aladdin, or 
Eastern spell, had overcome the inhabitants, and wrapped them 
in a genuine Rip Van Winkle sleep. 

In order to salute the fort, and out of pure kindness towards 
the inhabitants of the city, whom we wished to re-arouse to 
the realities of this world, we ran up the American ensign to 
the main peak, and poured a thundering broadside of cannon 
into the city, followed up quickly by a crackmg volley of 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 55 

small arms. One pistol burst and shivered the hand of a sail- 
or beside me. The fort did not return the salute ; but the in- 
habitants of the city were most effectually awakened from 
their lethargy ; for we now saw them scattering and moving 
about, at double quick time, in all directions. 

Presently a canoe put off and came alongside, and a white 
man, with four Malay rajahs, dressed in flashy calico morn- 
ing-gowns, with their heads shaved, stood on deck, confronted 
by the captain of the " war-brig." The white man was the 
commandant of the fort, and spoke good English. He in- 
formed us that this was a " Dutch island," although none of 
the inhabitants except himself could speak any language but 
that of the Malay, and that the Dutch, by their league with the 
rajahs, prohibited all foreign vessels from trading here, and 
looked with a jealous and suspicious eye upon all vessels that 
took even the liberty of stopping. 

There were plenty of deer, fruit, and hogs on shore, and 
our captain told the commandant that he was in want of some 
of these, as well as of wood and water, for all of which he 
would pay a fair price. 

The commandant said that we could not obtain any, for the 
Dutch monopolized all the trade, and would not allow the na- 
tives to bring anything to us for sale, or, in fact, to have any- 
thing to do with us. At this our captain waxed warm, and 
told the commandant and the most august and puissant rajahs 
that he was in want of fresh provisions, wood, and water, and 
if they did not grant him permission to purchase them, he 
would forthwith bring his cannon to bear upon the city, and 
blow down the minarets of the mosques. This threat brought 
our visiters to their senses, and, as if by the same magic which 
had before aroused them from their lethargy, and brought 
them on board, the rajahs, now trembling, bowed before the 
captain of the " war-brig," and besought him, like true Mo- 
hammedans, not to desecrate their temples, and they would 
allow him to wood and water, and send him plenty of fresh 
provisions. 

Things being thus amicably settled, the rajahs seemed in- 
clined to wink at all Dutch laws, provided they could keep 
their necks out of the halter, and they ventured so far as" to 
inquire if we had any razors. We answered in the affirma- 



56 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

live, and showed them some that were equal to Peter Pindar's 
best. They admired them much, and the chance of trading 
tempted some of them so far that they disregarded the laws 
which they had urged against us, and purchased these and 
other trifles. They departed for the shore in great good hu- 
mour. The next day canoes came off with fruits and the 
body of a fat and beautiful doe. 

The houses of Cajeli are neatly and substantially construct- 
ed of bamboo, thatched with palm leaves, and are but one 
story high. They are scattered about over a large surface of 
low, level ground, and are surrounded each by a neat little 
garden, fenced in with bamboos, and most rurally shaded be- 
neath the foliage of beautiful fruit-trees and shrubs. The 
city contains eight mosques, which are large, octangular build- 
ings, surmounted by lofty minarets constructed of the same 
materials as the dwellings. 



CHAPTER X. 

I paid a hasty visit to the fort, to reconnoitre, and found 
only six small cannon mounted. The garrison was composed 
of ten Malay soldiers, under the orders of the commandant. 
Their principal duty consisted of eating and drinking, and 
now and then burnishing up a few old muskets and cutlasses. 
Their reason for not returning our salute was a very good 
one, namely, that they had no powder ! 

The commandant was the only white person in the place, 
and he was a somewhat remarkable man. Though a French- 
man by birth, he was a perfect cosmopolite. He spoke fluent- 
ly Dutch, English, Malay, and French. He was perfectly 
willing to wink at the Dutch laws, and at all other laws, pro- 
vided he only had the rajahs to back him, so that he would 
run no risk of losing his situation, which, as may be imagined, 
was a perfect sinecure. He acted as interpreter between us 
and the rajahs, and, I believe, gave meaning to our words so 
as best to suit himself. The rajahs are men of high authority, 
and possess unbounded influence with the populace. 

The commandant was a jovial, sociable man, and invited 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 57 

me to his quarters, where he treated me to fruit and arrack. 
Walking through the city, I was followed by a curious mob 
of gazing boys, entirely naked, and of men with loose trou- 
sers, the legs of which reached not quite to the knees. They 
followed me for the same purpose that a mob would press 
round a Tartar, in full costume, walking up Broadway. Sev- 
eral of the men carried huge iron cleavers, and I was inform- 
ed that these were " carpenters ;" the machete constituted all 
their tools and their whole stock in trade. Their savage 
looks led me to believe that their blows would be as readily 
and as heartily bestowed upon a Frank's head as on a bamboo. 
[t may be, however, I did them injustice. Here and there I 
caught a glimpse of the Malay girls, with flowing, raven hair ; 
but at the sight of me they fled into the house and peeped, 
with their black eyes, through the crack of the door as it stood 
ajar. 

Rajah Malar politely invited me into his " distillery ;" and 
as the door closed upon me within, it also closed upon the sans 
culottes without. 

Here I saw going on the manufacture of that valuable oil of 
medicine, cajeput. Four stills were in full operation. They 
were formed of iron caldrons, set in brick furnaces, and cov- 
ered over with masonry. The condensing tubes were made 
of wood, or, rather, " bamboo," and every part of the stills was 
constructed in the rudest manner possible. 

The rajah informed me that these stills, rude as they were, 
had cost him much time, labour, and money ; and that as soon 
as he could purchase better, he would be enabled to manufac- 
ture three times the quantity of oil, in a given space of time, 
at the same expense. I told him that our captain had some 
beche-de-mer caldrons that might answer a good purpose ; but 
I did not believe that he would part with them, as he would re- 
quire them for his own use. 

Cajeput oil is a volatile green, and is distilled from cajeput 
leaves, which resemble those of the willow or peach-tree. 

The next day Rajah Malar came on board and persuaded the 
captain to sell the caldrons. I do not know the reasons that 
influenced our captain, but I presumed that cajeput oil was the 
tempting inducement ; for I afterward saw ail but two of our 
beche-de-mer caldrons passed over the side into canoes ; and 



58 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

then a certain number of bottles of cajeput oil were passed on 
board in return. 

" A good job !" said Long Bill. " We sha'n't have to cut 
wood and make fires under them now." 

" That shell of a canoe," said Jack Toms, " keels over like 
a Portuguese man-o'-war." 

I looked over the rail just in time to see a great bubbling and 
boiling in the water, caused by the unfortunate sinking of one 
of the rajah's caldrons. 

Pineapples grow wild in the rear of the city. In the forest 
I found growing a flowering plant that bore a seed-pod, filled 
with a substance exactly resembling raw silk. I thought it 
might be as valuable for spinning as the latter, and collected 
several seed-pods, which, since my return, I have planted in 
my garden at Harlem ; but the seed, perhaps being too old or 
injured by salt water, did not vegetate. It appeared to be an 
annual, and does not grow as large as the cotton plant. 

A river runs through the city and empties into the bay, and 
from it we filled our casks with fresh water. There is a bar 
at its mouth. We found the water good, but slightly medicinal. 

One day my friend W came to me and said, 

" Have you heard the rumour]" 

" What rumour 1" said I. 

" A Malay says that a proa departed yesterday for Amboyna, 
with instructions to inform the governor that a piratical brig, 
under American colours, was carrying on a contraband trade 
with the inhabitants of Cajeli !" 

" We shall get into trouble," said I. 

" Yes ; and we may as well make ready for an immediate 
brush with a Dutch man-of-war !" 

That night we weighed anchor and made sail ; but the ele- 
ments seemed to conspire against us ; for, at the mouth of the 
bay, we encountered a severe thunder squall, dead in our 
teeth, that drove us back towards our old anchoring ground 
under bare poles. We let the anchor run ; the vessel swung 
round, with her stern near the beach, and her keel near the 
bottom ! Luckily, it soon blew over, and we sailed out to sea. 
The following drawing is an eye-sketch of Cajeli Bay. 
I The next day we lay becalmed in Pitt's Passage, in sight 
of the islands of Bomoa and Manipa. The vessel was sur- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



59 



$<v£rt^?On SMILES 

-•3 _jT> O'yi 




rounded by schools of bonetta, albicore, skip-jacks, flying-fish, 
dolphin, and sharks. The sailors prepared for a comfortable 
" fishing tanzy," by stowing themselves snugly away on the 
bowsprit, jib-boom, and martingale back stays, well provided 
with fishing-lines, pipes, and tobacco. We caught a fine mess 
of fish, and were in right good humour, when a large shark 
swam alongside, accompanied by two dapper little pilot-fish, 
that seemed to keep a magnetic position directly over his 
body. We harpooned him, hitched a running-bowline over his 
tail, rigged a whip on the main-yard, and all hands tallied on 
to the fall, and whipped him up to the yard-arm with a lively 
song. We lowered him on deck ; he thrashed about with his 
huge tail, and nearly bit through the fore-brace with his rip- 
saw teeth. Upon his belly we found two suckers. We soon 
dissected him : his jaws were hung upon the forecastle hatch, 
as a trophy ; his skin was stretched out to dry, to be used as 
sand-paper in cleaning our muskets and pistols ; his tail was 
cut off and served up in the kids for supper. It made a very 
palatable dish, equal to halibut, only a trifle drier. 

The next day we sailed through Gause Strait, between Oby 
Major and the Gause islands. Thence we sailed to the west 
of a reef of rocks, one point of which rose ten feet above the 
water ; but the other part extended off a long distance, even 
with the water's edge, and formed a dangerous barrier, upon 
which the sea broke heavily. 



60 INCIDETTS AND ADVENTURES 

We cruised along the east side of a group of islands which 
are not named on the charts, and are situated off the south 
end of Gillolo. They were low, and indented with bays that 
appeared to afford good anchorage. The land was covered 
with verdure, and presented a beautiful appearance. At about 
dark we were close in with Lobobo Point, the southeast end 
of Gillolo, and saw six large proas riding at anchor in a small 
bay. They immediately got under way, set all sail, got out 
their sweeps, and, manned by a rabble rout of Malays shout- 
ing wildly, bore down upon us with all speed. 

The captain concluded that they were piratical proas, and 
intended to board us forthwith. We set all sail, steering away 
from them ; but, unluckily, the wind fell away and the proas 
gained rapidly upon us with their sweeps. 

Our drum beat to quarters, and the crew, becoming some- 
what excited and alarmed, assembled on deck, bristling with 
cutlasses, muskets, pistols, and boarding-pikes. It soon be- 
came quite dark ; but still the proas rushed on, shouting, and 
eager lest their prey should escape. We saw the flash and 
heard the report of a cannon in the direction of the foe, one 
of whom now hove in sight, off the quarter. 

" Give her a chain-shot from the long nine !" cried the cap- 
tain. At the discharge, the proa doused her sail with a bo- 
ding crash, and disappeared in the increasing darkness, while 
the clamour of voices became suddenly hushed ! The breeze 
freshening up, we were soon skimming briskly over the Gil- 
lolo Passage. The next day we sighted the islands of Geby 
and Jeoy, and on the next we were among a numerous clus- 
ter of singularly beautiful little islets. They were mostly 
rocky, and rose to various heights above the water, and as- 
sumed the most varied and romantic forms. Notwithstanding 
their rocky nature, they contained some soil, and were cover- 
ed with a dense verdure that fairly hung into the sea, and 
caused them to appear much larger than their real size. They 
were uninhabited, and lay between the west end of Waigoo 
and a small, elevated island. As they are incorrectly laid 
down on the charts, and are not named, I will take the liberty 
to name them the Romantic Islets. 

Following along, close to the north side of the Island of 
Waigoo, several natives in canoes came timidly alongside, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 61 

with fish to sell. They had several neat iron fishing spears, 
a clasp-knife, and kiar-lines. We presented them beads, and 
they promised to bring us tortoise-shell to Boni Saini. We 
entered the latter harbour the next day, and anchored at its 
foot, near the mouth of a small river. We were somewhat 
under the influence of bugbear stories we had heard about the 
inhabitants being numerous, warlike, and treacherous. Ac- 
cordingly, we triced up the netting, and otherwise prepared 
for defence. 

At night we were still more vigilant, and kept a sharp look- 
out, lest the savages should surprise us. Three sentinels were 
stationed, one on the forecastle-deck, one on the quarter-deck, 
and one on the fore-top. Being now on the Equator, and the 
climate most delightful and bland, and the scene around per- 
fectly still, the temptations for the " look-outs" to snoose out 
their watch were very great. They happened not to have 
read so many of the bugbear stories of ancient navigators as 
the captain, and hence took the scene around to be exactly as 
it appeared to be. 

The captain was up and down the first half of the night, 
" watching the watch." One time he happened to come on 
deck, and found all silent ; the " look-out" forward lay com- 
fortably stretched out upon the bowsprit, fast asleep, with his 
rifle resting against his body, while he of the quarter was 
snugly stowed under the thwarts of the stern boat. The cap- 
tain stood amidships and hailed, " Fore-top, ahoy!" 

All remained silent, save that he of the bow started up, 
seized his rifle, and briskly walked his rounds, casting watch- 
ful glances over the knight-heads, to see that no savages were 
unshackling the chain. 

" Fore-top, ahoy !" 

No answer was returned ; but the " vigilant look-out" of the 
stern hustled out of the boat and briskly walked his rounds. 

" Fore-top, ahoy !" 

This time a musket rattled in the top, and a stentorian voice 
answered from aloft, " Halloo !" 

" Do you see any natives in canoes V asked the captain. 

" No, sir ! none in sight !" answered he of the top. 

The captain called the first officer, and told him to station 
an officer in each watch to pass the time every half hour ; the 

F 



62 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

man on the forecastle to strike the bell, and the man in the 
top to cry out " All's well !" 

Soon after midnight, the look-out on the forecastle addressed 
himself to the man in the top, " Hist, hist, Frank ; don't you 
hear canoes coming out of the river ?" 

" Ay, ay ; you'd better call the ' old man,' " was the answer. 

The captain came on deck, and sat upon the bowsprit with 
his telescope pointed towards the river. The regular stroke of 
paddles, and the motion of canoes through the water, now rose 
audibly upon the ear, and soon we caught a distant glimpse of 
their dark outline stringing out into the harbour, and spreading 
about as if to surround us. 

All hands were called. " See everything clear for action," 
said the captain ; " a canister of grape in the eighteen ; stand 
by to fire." 

As the sailors turned out, rubbing their sleepy eyes, to get a 
good look at the canoes, one of them said, " D — n my eyes if 
the old man wasn't right; them bloody savages might have 
cut our throats while the watch was snoozing." 

Suddenly the beach at the foot of the harbour was illumina- 
ted, and naked savages ran up and down with blazing torches 
in their hands, that cast a lurid glare over the placid water, 
and presented distinctly to our view the canoes around us. 
Now the dusky bodies in the canoes rose up and uttered a 
frightful yell, which was followed by the violent beating of 
their paddles upon the water. 

" Stand by the eighteen !" shouted the captain. 

We were at first a good deal alarmed ; but we were some- 
what relieved by seeing all the canoes paddle swiftly for the 
beach, and in a short time all danger seemed at an end. The 
natives were fishing by torchlight ; we saw them haul up 
seines ; soon the torches were extinguished, and the canoes 
paddled away up the river, with the natives singing and re- 
joicing, apparently having had a bountiful haul. 

The crew winked at each other for this " grand hoax," and 
retired to wink themselves to sleep again. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



63 



CHAPTER XI. 

The next day half a dozen straggling natives in canoes ven- 
tured alongside, with a few fowls and cocoanuts. They were 
negroes, with thick, woolly hair, and wore nothing but a long 
strip of cocoanut cloth wound like a sash around their waists ; 
they were ignorant and very stupid, and made smoking their 
chief employment. We bought some tortoise-shell and a few 
nutmegs here. 

The geographies inform us that the population of Waigoo is 
100,000. How such a fable could have crept into school-books, 
I cannot say ; but I saw nothing to lead me to believe that the 
population exceeds 15,000. 

The following engraving gives an eye-sketch of the harbour 
of Boni Saini, and the track which we pursued is marked. 




The harbour is in latitude 00°, longitude 130° 50' E. Ten 
miles to the westward is situated a small island. The west 
entrance to the harbour is the first point that is covered with 
trees to the water's edge after passing the small island. 

Having remained here two days, we again got under way 
and coasted the island to the eastward, sailing in sight of the 
Youle Islands. 

The next day we were out of sight of all land, and by an 
unlucky movement of the main-sheet, I was suddenly knocked 
overboard. When the vessel had left me half a mile astern, 
she was hove to ; and after much delay in cutting away the 



64 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

stern boat, I had the satisfaction of seeing her prancing over 
the waves to my rescue. I was an expert swimmer, and this 
saved my life. I had little fear of drowning, but I confess the 
apprehension of giving exercise to the jaws of some of the 
huge sharks that had diligently followed the ship gave me a 
decided uneasiness. I fortunately escaped, however, and was 
picked up by my shipmates uninjured. 

The names of those who rescued me are John Benton, 
George Roy, and William Taylor. Should this book fall into 
their hands, in the different parts of the world which they in- 
habit, they will please receive my heartiest thanks for their 
exertions. 

I wish most emphatically to impress upon the mind of the 
reader the fact, that we are now entering upon an unknown 
and unexplored region, where the navigator, at every turn, 
finds himself involved in doubt, perplexity, and fear lest he 
should wreck his vessel upon some unknown coral reef, or run 
his flying jib-boom into some uprising mountain, where, by the 
best authorities, he has been led to suppose that nothing exists 
except the boundless and fathomless ocean ; and where, per- 
adventure, he may be roasted alive and eaten by cannibals, 
who will be disposed to massacre the first white man who hap- 
pens to fall into their power, as an act of vengeance to ap- 
pease the manes of their ancestors, who may have been cru- 
elly treated, or murdered in cold blood, by some ancient big- 
oted and ignorant European visiters. 

Of all that vast, beautiful, healthful, and productive country, 
known as Tropical Australasia, not one correct chart has ever 
been drawn ; and hundreds of most lovely islands lie scattered 
about in all directions, that have never been seen, or, at least, 
landed upon, by white men ; some of which are inhabited, and 
others entirely desolate. Ancient navigators merely sighted, 
in the distance, certain points, but were afraid to come in con- 
tact with the land, except here and there, where they appre- 
hended the least danger from the savages. Even the places 
where they pretend to have landed, and to have discovered isl- 
ands, remain wrapped in profound mystery, and are unknown 
except by conjecture ; for such was the rude state of naviga- 
tion in olden days, that, after the most celebrated navigators 
had discovered a group of islands and returned home, it was 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 65 

impossible for them, or any one else, except by accident, to 
find them again. The expeditions and accurate method of 
finding the longitude by chronometer was then unknown ; and 
it is doubtful if the most celebrated ancient navigators knew 
how to find the longitude, otherwise than by " guess-work" or 
dead reckoning. 

Jacob le Maire and Wilhelm Cornelisz Schouten, two Dutch 
navigators, in 1616 discovered the east end of the Admiralty 
Islands ; and, taking it to be the east end of Ceram, they bore 
away S.W. for the Banda Islands. Judge their surprise and 
confusion when they brought up among a range of mountain 
islands, thirty miles north of Papua ! This may show how 
little these celebrated commanders of exploring expeditions 
knew of navigation ; Ceram was just 1000 geographical miles 
distant W. 5° S. 

From the report of the Portuguese, who greedily caught and 
circulated the report of some Malays, Europeans became 
strongly impressed with the idea that there existed in the Pa- 
cific Ocean a vast continent. Hence, some of the ancient nav- 
igators became so impressed with this belief, that, when they 
discovered a small group of islands, they did not stop to explore 
them, but hurried home and placed before their sovereign 
flaming accounts of their discovery of part of the great south- 
ern continent ! the great Terra Australia ! Some of these nav- 
igators allowed their imaginations to carry them so far as to 
believe that this region abounded in all the precious metals and 
gems ; and they even expected to fall in with islands covered 
with these valuable commodities, with which they could load 
their vessels as with so much ballast ! The famous " land of 
Cockaigne," where fat turkeys, ready roasted, were said to run 
about the streets, praying for some one to come and eat them, 
was an African desert compared with the ideal islands these 
men had fancied real. From the terrible stories of old navi- 
gators, it is considered so dangerous to cruise among the isl- 
ands of Tropical Australasia, that modern navigators, in un- 
armed vessels, are afraid to venture. 

Such is the region upon which we are now entering, under the 
command of an enterprising captain, who has determined to ex- 
plore and open a trade in every spot where the danger is most 
imminent. He now assumed the authority of an autocrat ovei 

F2 



66 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

every soul on board, even to the officers, and took all their nau- 
tical instruments and locked them up, that they might not ascer- 
tain our latitude or longitude. The farther progress of the ves- 
sel was wrapped in mystery, and no one was permitted, in his 
presence, even to hint at the name or situation of any place at 
which we stopped. He kept everything to himself; determin- 
ed to reap the profit of the trade he meant to open, at another 
time, on his " own hook ;" for peculiar circumstances, connect- 
ed with frequent quarrels with the supercargo, had transpired, 
and given him (as he thought) good cause to " crush the own- 
ers and their spies." He looked with a jealous eye upon any 
one who even so much as picked up the scrap of a school map, 
and glanced it over, useless as it was. The crew could de- 
scribe the beauties of the islands that we visited, and the na- 
ture of our trade, but they could not tell their latitude or lon- 
gitude, or ever return over the same route. We never hove 
the log, and the vessel's log-book contained no courses, distan- 
ces, latitudes, or longitudes. 

By peculiar management, I was enabled to conceal my in- 
struments in the steerage ; and it so happened that one other 
person and myself were as well acquainted with our daily 
progress as the captain could be. 

Reminding the reader of these facts, I again resume the 
thread of my narrative. 

The next day we were close in with the S. W. end of the 
Island of Mysory. A coral reef stretched along near the shore, 
and to the east lay a group of small islands. We were be- 
calmed among large quantities of drift-wood, with which we 
kept company and drifted with a current that set directly upon 
a reef. We brought out our sweeps, and were soon clear of 
danger. 

Upon the shore was a large town, from which two canoes 
put off and came alongside. They each contained eleven na- 
ked natives, who were friendly, and sold us some fine tortoise 
and pearl shells. The chief of the party came on board, and 
Prince Darco showed him about the vessel. He was much 
pleased and surprised at all he saw, and wanted us to anchor 
in a bay east of the three small islands, where he said his peo- 
ple would come and trade with us. W 7 ith a fine breeze we 
sailed along to the east, and at midnight found ourselves in a 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 67 

large bight or bay. Not getting bottom with fifteen fathoms' 
line, within a mile of its foot, we lay to until daybreak, when 
we set all sail, and, with a strong wind from the west, coasted 
close along the south shore of the island to the eastward. 
Three small islands and Hump Island were in sight to the 
south. 

The shore of Mysory is a bluff rock, of moderate elevation, 
overhung with a dense verdure. In spots here and there, the 
bluff was broken or gashed, and formed beautiful little coves, 
with white sand beaches. The captain was a bold and some- 
times a reckless navigator ; we sailed, with a cracking breeze, 
under full sail, so close to the bluff that if the helm had been 
put a starboard, our flying jib-boom would have been shivered 
against it. 

At each cove, near the beach, were groves of cocoanut and 
banana trees, waving their picturesque foliage close to the wa- 
ter's edge. Directly in front, partly over the beach and partly 
over the water, built on spiles, were from two to six slight 
houses, built of bamboo and thatched with cocoa leaves, while 
beneath floated several canoes. 

At each village, as we passed, the natives turned out and 
hailed us to stop and trade. Several canoes, with mat sails 
and outriggers, came after us in full pursuit, paddled by na- 
tives, who motioned us to stop and anchor, as they wanted 1o 
trade. We disregarded all their signals. 

Onward we sped, and some of the more fleet canoes con- 
tinued the chase, propelled by their sails and by the brawny 
arms of the paddlers, until they nearly swamped amid the 
waves and foam, in the vain expectation of overtaking us. 

A fine large canoe put off from a village with a commanding 
and noble-looking chieftain seated upon its platform. He 
cheered his men continually at their paddles, and came quite 
close to the vessel ; but, upon finding that he could not over- 
take us, he rose up to his full height and addressed us in a sten- 
torian voice and a lofty strain, throwing himself into a theat- 
rical attitude, and accompanying his words by appropriate ges- 
tures. The natives, who plied the paddles, cheered him con- 
tinually, very much as a political mob cheer a stump orator in 
Illinois and Texas. He swore everlasting friendship by the 
Spirit of the Sun ; and, when so far astern that we could not 
distinguish his words, he presented us his " carbo gourd" (a. 



68 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

most friendly sign), and, pointing to the sun, struck his breast 
three times. 

The supercargo wanted to stop and trade ; but the captain 
determined to do as he pleased, and so kept doggedly onward. 
He gave no reasons for his course, but now and then dropped 
a hint of his intentions : " Got a fair wind now ; one bird in 
hand is better than two in the bush ; if we find a safe harbour, 
we'll anchor," &c. 

At 2 P.M. Ave were opposite the mouth of a small, but beau- 
tiful and picturesque bay, into which it seemed as if a river 
emptied. Native villages of thatched houses lined its shores, 
and a fleet of canoes floated upon its mirror-like surface. We 
soon neared the east end of the island, and saw a large, wide- 
spreading bay ; but the entrance did not appear safe, on ac- 
count of a coral reef that extended across it, and reached out 
to seaward. We took our departure, and steered south for the 
dangerous Traitor's Archipelago, which soon hove in sight. 
The sea was quite rough, and we scudded along with an in- 
creased quartering wind, at the rate of eleven knots. It was 
my watch below, and I was writing up my journal, by the light 
of a bull's-eye, upon the lid of my chest, which, by a kind of 
patent fixture, had been made to answer a double purpose. 

" Hard alee ! close on a rock !" sounded the clear, loud voice 
of the looktout at the mast-head. " Hard up ! hard up !" 

I ceased breathing — the journal dropped from my hand ; 
and I rushed upon deck, in momentary fear that the spars were 
about to rattle around our ears. For the first time I saw the 
captain appear terrified: he rushed out of the cabin, seized 
hold of the wheel, and rolled the brig to windward. Casting 
my eyes over the bulwarks, with a chilling shudder, I saw the 
vessel glide over a black rock, against which it seemed as if 
she almost grated her keel. She passed over, however, with- 
out striking, and we did not return to sound this dangerous 
spot. It lies in the centre of the passage between Mysory 
and the Traitor's Archipelago. 

The latter group we found surrounded by a dangerous coral 
reef, which was now a lee shore, and the waves tumbled in 
upon it with roaring fury ; in some places the sea broke and 
dashed up in foam as high as our topsail-yards. We soon lost 
sight of these pretty islands, and at night were on the ocean, 
out of sight of all land. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 69 



CHAPTER XII. 

The next day we caught a distant glimpse of Moa. At 8 
P.M. the sky clouded over, and became as black as the cook's 
funnel. We furled the light sails, close reefed the topsails, 
and made all snug. It was a dismal night ; the, thunder roared 
and crashed around us as if the heavens had been rent asun- 
der ; the chain-lightning circled around, and seemingly played 
over our spars and rigging. We stopped the chain-holes with 
canvass, to prevent the electric fluid from entering our maga- 
zine. The rain poured down in torrents, and filled the stern 
boat as fast as one man could bale it out. By the glare of the 
lightning our crew could be seen standing in line upon deck, 
passing buckets of rain-water from the trunk to fill up the wa- 
ter casks. 

The second day after this, in the afternoon, we were sailing 
to the eastward, close along the coast of Papua, which is here 
formed of beautiful elevated lands, covered with the verdure 
of perpetual summer, and watered by purling streams of clear, 
cool water. 

A great many natives came off in handsome canoes, with 
one outrigger, for the purpose of trafficking with us. They 
were naked, with the exception of ornaments hung about their 
persons, and were stout, savage-looking men, of a dark cop- 
per colour, with hair somewhat longer and straighter than the 
wool of the negro. Their bodies were branded, or tattooed, 
with different devices on different parts. The operation must 
have been painful, for the burns and blisters on some of them 
had not yet healed. These particular marks are a perpetual vo- 
cabulary, denoting the tribe and rank of the wearer — as a brand 
on a Texan horse denotes his owner. Their hair was nicely 
combed, and painted with red clay and cocoanut oil ; and their 
ears were pierced with large holes, in which were fastened 
large and ornamental rings of tortoise-shell and pearl, hanging 
to the shoulder. They each had a slit cut in the centre car- 
tilage of the nose ; through which was thrust a purely white, 
round substance, two inches long, and more than half an inch 



To 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



in diameter. It was held in a position upon the upper lip sim- 
ilar to that of the mustache, and looked not unlike tusks grow- 
ing out of the nose ; contrasted with a row of white teeth un- 
derneath, these hideous ornaments gave them a most savage 
appearance. They were cut out of shell or ivory, and the na- 
tives seemed to attach great value to them as amulets, and 
were loath to part with them at any price. I succeeded, how- 
ever, in obtaining one from the nose of a warrior of some note. 
He seized hold of my nose and pinched it so severely, by way 
of showing me how to introduce and wear the amulet, that I 
was ready to scream with agony. He hoped that the fickle 
warrior's god would never make enemies of us. I may yet 
live to return him his memento. 

From the appearance of these amulets, which seemed to be 
of ivory, I was led to suppose that the elephant abounds in the 
wilds of Papua. 

Each canoe contained a goodly supply of powerful bows, 
arrows, spears, and war-clubs, all of which, combined with the 
physical appearance of these natives, designated them as a 
race of fearless warriors. They seemed friendly, and we 
threw them tow-lines over the stern, and entered into trade 
for cocoanuts and jasper-stone adzes. They invited us po- 
litely to come on shore, and said that, in one moon, they 
would bring us plenty of tortoise-shell, pearl-shell, pearls, 
paradise birds, ambergris, beche-de-mer, gold dust, ostrich 
plumes, ivory, camphor, nutmegs, edible birds' nests, palm oil, 
diamonds, &c. 

The wind now freshened up and our headway increased, so 
that the canoes sheered about, endangering their outriggers, 
and were obliged to let go the tow-lines and drop astern. We 
now arrived opposite the mouth of a noble bay ; it was a 
" new discovery !" The land was elevated, picturesque, and 
verdant. The east point of the bay was a denuded red clay 
and rocky bluff, from which put off a shoal. With the usual 
daring of our captain, we boldly entered the bay, and steered 
for its foot with all sail set. We now sighted a beautiful 
small bay, or mouth of a river, that extended to the eastward 
from the foot of the gulf. On the beach we spied a great 
multitude of warriors, hurrying along with bundles of war im- 
plements, and depositing them in canoes, which they launched 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



*71 



into the water, and put off for the vessel from various coves 
and inlets. One war-canoe, commanded by a celebrated 
brave, was towed, by one of our lines, near the stern. 

Our captain stood upon the taffrail, eyeing the accumulating 
dangers ; and thinking that, when we anchored, and the crew 
were aloft furling sails, the host of savages might be tempted 
to pick the sailors off the yards with their arrows, like so 
many blackbirds, he determined to have a clear course while 
coming to, and so, to frighten the natives away for a brief 
period, he gave orders to fire a blank cartridge from the six- 
pounder. The gun thundered over the water ; but the effect 
was different from what we had expected. 

It was my K trick" at the helm, and I was astonished to see 
the captain fall down beside me, while his telescope struck 
my leg violently, and something whizzed overhead! The 
savage warrior in the canoe astern let go of the tow-line the 
instant he heard the report of the cannon, and, seizing his 
bow and arrow, let fly at the captain, who fortunately dodged 
a barbed arrow which was aimed at his heart. 

The canoes now put off in great numbers ; and the natives 
were so well armed and seemed so hostile, that we deemed 
it safest to retrace our course and stand out to sea. 

The wind fell away, but we crept slowly towards the mouth 
of the bay, and again approached the w r ar-canoe commanded 
by the savage brave. He now showed signs of friendship by 
holding up two cocoanuts ; but the instant he came within 
shot of the captain, who stood upon the quarter, he dropped 
the nuts and seized his arrow and bow, and, with a frightful 
scowl of defiance, was about to twang it, when the captain 
levelled his rifle and shot him down. The treacherous war- 
rior, uttering a shriek, fell backward over the gunwale of the 
canoe, and, rolling overboard, sunk with the bow and arrow 
in his grasp. The natives who manned the canoe did not ap- 
pear to take part with their chieftain, and they now all leaped 
overboard and held their heads above water, under the lee of 
their boat. We offered them no injury, and, soon dropping 
astern, they again jumped into the canoe and paddled for the 
foot of the bay. 

An immense fleet of war-canoes, manned by hundreds of 
brawny warriors, now came pouring out of the river, and 



72 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

started in full pursuit of our devoted craft, like a mighty bil- 
low, while from every direction advanced smaller fleets, all 
concentrating ahead and off the beams, to act in concert with 
the king's flotilla. 

The wind was quite light, and it was impossible for us to 
escape. The captain very justly remarked, that " a retreating 
enemy emboldens the pursuers." We accordingly turned 
about, and steered for the foot of the bay. 

The king's flotilla bore down upon us, the warriors chanting 
the war-song in tremendous chorus, which was taken up and 
rolled over the bay by thousands of voices, accompanied by 
the sound of the tum-tums, war-conchs, and the soul-stirring, 
quick chorus of the flat side of the paddle-blades struck vio- 
lently against the sides of the canoes. Now and then, be- 
tween the chorus, the king and principal braves stood upon 
the outriggers of their respective canoes, and, with javelins in 
their hands, delivered speeches to cheer their followers to the 
onset. So great was the din that the captain was forced to 
use his speaking-trumpet to make himself heard. 

I had heard of the Indian war-whoop, but never before had 
realized its terrifying influence. As we were silent, and return- 
ed no answering yell, these savages took us to be so feeble 
and few in numbers that they could do as they pleased with us. 

" Fore and main top-men, stations !" cried the captain. 
" Armorer, man the arm-chest ! range forty muskets on the 
trunk and forty on the windlass ! shot the eighteens with the 
largest canister of musket-balls !" A large canister contained 
250 balls ; a single discharge would thus carry terrible havoc 
from an eighteen-pounder amid a host of savages within mus- 
ket-shot. 

The crisis had now arrived ; the king's flotilla closed in upon 
us ; and, with a terrific yell, the warriors launched a volley of 
arrows at the vessel, that bristled in the bow and rigging. 
They seemed to think themselves and their arrows quite in- 
vincible, and expected to see us, like the whale when harpoon- 
ed, go into our "flurry." It was now our turn to chant our 
war-song. The crew stood ranged along in their stations ; 
each man had a cutlass swinging by his side, a pair of board- 
ing-pistols in his belt, and near by stood his pike. 

" Yaw her off handsomely !" said the captain to me ; "keep 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 73 

the broadside parallel to the fleet ! Give them a ball from the 
six-pounder, to splash the water the other side !" 

" Boom !" This " war-yell" checked for a moment the im- 
petuosity of the warriors ; but upon looking around and seeing 
that no injury had been done, they took it for granted that it 
had only been a spout, or groan, or death-throe of the " sea- 
monster," with whom they expected soon to have fine sport. 
The king and braves now urged their followers again to the 
onset with energetic harangues. Again they closed upon us, 
and discharged a volley of arrows, which slightly wounded two 
of our crew, and one grazed my head too near for comfortable 
and composed reflection. 

" Rake the fleet with the broadside !" roared the captain. 
We gave them a salute accordingly. 

For a brief space the vessel was shrouded in smoke, and we 
remained in doubt as to the amount of damage we had done. 
The war-yell had ceased, and now, as the smoke dispersed, 
we saw a scene of fearful devastation. Many of the canoes 
were shattered into pieces, which floated about upon the wa- 
ter, clasped by human arms, while some were riddled and fast 
sinking. All the natives not disabled had leaped overboard, 
and their heads were bobbing up and down under the lee side 
of their respective canoes. This is a feat always performed 
by the warriors when worsted, even when engaged in combat 
with men like themselves. By this manoeuvre they are shield- 
ed from a direct arrow, and can occasionally pick off an adver- 
sary the same as American Indians in " tree-fighting" or skulk- 
ing. On the canoes and fragments lay the dead imd dying, 
groaning in agony and supplicating for mercy. 

One flotilla, which advanced in the distance on the opposite 
side of the vessel, did not appear to be aware of the dreadful 
slaughter we had committed ; for still they pressed onward, 
chanting the war-song ! They did not discover their sad mis- 
take until it was too late. Our crew had become alarmed, and, 
in reckless phrensy, poured volley upon volley of musketry 
among the warriors, even after they had. leaped overboard. 
It is worthy of particular note, that one noble chief stood up at 
full length in his canoe and paddled safely to the shore, being 
proof against our bullets. 

The clear blue water of this beautiful bay was dyed with 

G 



74 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTUKES 

the blood of many a warrior ; and as the groans and gurglings 
of the mortally wounded rose upon the ear, and we looked 
around upon the spectacle, it was appalling and heart-sicken- 
ing ! 

The firing had ceased, and the warriors were effectually dis- 
persed. 

The captain mounted the trunk and harangued the natives. 
He waved his outspread hands over them, as a father over his 
children, and told them he had come here as their friend ; they 
had come to massacre him, and had met their doom from the 
all-powerful and ubiquitous "White King," who communed 
with the " Spirit of the Sun," to which luminary he pointed. 

The natives, with their heads bobbing up and down under 
cover of the canoes, gazed at him in wonder and amazement. 

A breeze sprang up, and we set all sail ; it was night, and we 
were once more safe upon the ocean. 

I name this bay " Reynolds's Bay," after J. N. Reynolds, 
Esq., of New- York. There was no correct observation taken 
by any one ; but by an altitude of Aldebaran, which I took at 
midnight by an imperfect horizon, I made the situation of the 
bay to be in lat. 2° 40' S., long. 141° 15' E. 

We continued coasting along to the eastward the shores of 
Papua. 

The bell struck eight, and all hands retired to their berths 
except the watch. 

On the second day after, we were close in with the coast, 
which was formed of beautiful land covered with groves of 
cocoanut, banana, and bread-fruit trees. We lay to close upon 
the land and awaited the approach of a great many canoes, 
which put off and came towards us filled with natives. W 7 hen 
within musket shot, they halted and gazed at us in wonder ; 
after which the chiefs addressed us with long harangues, 
while the host held up cocoanuts and bananas, and motioned 
us in a very friendly way to come and take them. 

Prince Darco mounted the taffrail and harangued them in 
return, while we held up, and made a great flourish with con- 
demned beads, looking-glasses, calico, and old rusty iron 
hoops. The natives uttered a friendly shout, and threw their 
cocoanuts towards us with all their strength. They fell into 
the water, and seeing that we did not come to pick them up, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. *75 

they advanced somewhat nearer, and threw them towards us 
again. This they repeated several times, until at length they 
ventured within stone's throw of the "big canoe," which ap- 
peared to strike them with reverential awe, and, to their vis- 
ion, loomed up as big as a mountain. 

The bulwark and monkey-rail were so high that the crew, 
when standing upon deck, could not be seen by natives in ca- 
noes alongside. 

Hence, as the natives drew near, they threw their cocoanuts 
inboard promiscuously, much to the gratification and sport of 
the sailors, who sung out fore and aft, " Heads-o ! heads-o !" 
as the nuts rattled around their ears, endangering the uniform- 
ity of their phrenological developments. After the nuts came 
flying big yams and whole bunches of fine bananas. 

When the natives had discharged their fruit, they shoved off 
in great good spirits, and thanked us much for having been so 
kind and friendly as to permit them to throw their fruit on 
board. They were about departing for the shore, and did not 
ask anything in return for their gifts. The captain called 
them alongside, and presented them beads and calico, at which 
they were greatly rejoiced. 

They were a fine-looking race of men, and far superior to 
the tribe at Reynolds's Bay. Their countenances and heads 
were quite intellectual. They were tall and well proportioned, 
with finely-rounded and muscular limbs, and were of a light 
copper colour. Their bodies were handsomely tattooed with 
various devices, and their hair was smoothly combed, and 
tastefully ornamented with ostrich and paradise aigrets. A 
handsome coloured and finely platted belt of grass, similar to 
that of a Panama cigar-case, encircled their waists. They 
were scrupulously cleanly in their persons, and in this respect 
far surpassed all the natives we had seen. They were taste- 
fully bedecked with ear-rings, bangles, and crescent breast- 
plates, of massive size, all neatly constructed and carved out 
of beautiful mottled tortoise and pearl shells. They had some 
beautiful net bags and scoop-nets, made of twine equal to our 
best fishing line. Their implements of war and canoes were 
made with great skill, and carved in the most elaborate man- 
ner. They were unacquainted with the use of iron, which we 
explained to them by cutting a stick with a sheath knife, and 



76 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

then showed them how to make a similar instrument out of a 
piece of iron hoop. At this they danced and shouted for joy ; 
and when we presented to the principal chief a piece of iron 
hoop, he examined it very minutely, with wondering looks ; 
he bit it, bent it, tried to pick it to pieces, and finally rubbed it 
across his war-club to ascertain which was hardest. Having 
satisfied himself of its valuable properties, he seized it firmly, 
as if it had been so much gold. 

The host now became quite clamorous, and eager to obtain 
a piece of the valuable metal. The captain informed them 
that he would give a small piece of it for every pound of 
hawkVbill tortoise-shell which they would bring him ; and 
offered to deal with them in the same liberal manner for pearls, 
pearl-shell, beche-de-mer, gold-dust, ambergris, mysory bark, 
edible bird's nests, sandal wood, paradise birds, nutmegs, dia- 
monds, camphor, gum copal, vermilion earth, ostrich plumes, 
ivory, palm and cocoanut oils, and other valuable productions 
of their island. 

Upon hearing this, they evinced the most extravagant joy, 
and said they would go at once on shore, and if we gave them 
time, would bring us an abundance of the articles named. The 
captain told them to go on collecting, and he would return in 
thirteen moons and buy all they had. In order to obtain a 
little of the metal now, they offered to sell us everything they 
had with them except their bodies and canoes. Accordingly, 
they stripped themselves, and we entered into trade. Soon 
the trunk was covered with shell armlets, bangles, ear-rings, 
breastplates, bows, arrows, javelins, war-clubs, &c. When 
this bargaining was over, they struck up a lively tune on pan- 
dean pipes and tum-tums, and sung a jolly song, and shouted 
for joy like simple-hearted children of nature. 

Our band returned the salute by playing the Spanish dance 
upon martial instruments. The natives gazed and listened in 
silent wonder ; but, the instant they understood what it meant, 
they laughed and shouted most boisterously, and danced a bo- 
bero that nearly shook themselves and their canoes to pieces. 

We squared the yards, and bade these jolly natives farewell. 
They paddled slowly for the shore, now and then stopping to 
take another look at us, holding up their paddles and shouting 
to put us in mind of our promise. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 77 

I could not avoid contrasting the reception these natives had 
given us with that we had received from the tribes of Rey- 
nolds's Bay ; and it seemed as if the latter owed ships and 
white men an old grudge, from stories handed down to them 
by their ancestors of the cruelty of ancient navigators to the 
inhabitants of Moa and Arimoa. 

We took our departure from Papua, steering N. by E., with 
a cracking trade-wind from the S.E. This was our course for 
several days, and we launched out upon the broad Pacific 
Ocean, with nothing in sight save the sky and the water. 

We were now approaching the "land of promise"-— Mor- 
rel's Group of islands, the birthplace of Prince Darco. All 
hands were on the tip-toe of expectation to witness the recep- 
tion of the prince by his people, who had, no doubt, mourned 
his absence as though he had been long since numbered with 
the dead ; and many were the speculations of the sailors about 
the grand denouement. As we neared the latitude of the 
group, the anxiety and impatience of Darco became painfully 
intense. He could scarcely eat or sleep, and every day he 
was found sitting in the slings of the fore-topsail yard, leaning 
with his back against the topmast cross-trees. In this posi- 
tion I have known him to sit whole days, gazing at the hori- 
zon ahead, apparently absorbed in deep meditation. 

One morning before he had yet left his berth, which was the 
top one of three in the cabin, the captain came and hallooed 
that his islands were in sight. He started from a troubled 
sleep, and fell prostrate upon the floor, having turned in only 
one hour before, for he had been up all night, anxiously ex- 
pecting to see his islands. After recovering in some measure 
from the sudden surprise, he rubbed his eyes, stood up, and 
said in his broken English, " What for you too much a pool, 
Capin Mor-eH You see my island! suppose me no see my 
island, me no lik'e you too much !" 

With this he instantly rushed upon deck, half dressed as he 
was, and, bounding forward, mounted the windlass bitts. 

G 2 



78 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER XIII. 

It was a beautiful morning, and almost calm. The smooth 
sea shone like a polished mirror, and the sun was just peepihg 
above the horizon. It was one of the finest mornings I had 
ever seen. A rain squall had just subsided, leaving the decks 
wet, and the morning air cool and refreshing. The rigging 
was studded with sparkling drops of dew and rain, which 
shone like pearls and diamonds in the light of the rising sun, 
and gave the shrouds and stays a most imposing appearance ; 
and, as that splendid luminary attained a greater elevation, the 
atmosphere in the vicinity of the land became thick and hazy, 
with the evaporation from the heavy night-dews which inva- 
riably prevail in these latitudes. 

The morning mists rose up and kissed the mountain slopes, 
imparting health, beauty, and vigour to all the productions of 
a tropical climate, and were soon dispersed by a gentle breeze, 
unveiling to our enraptured view the lovely scenery and pictu- 
resque beauties of this " land of promise" — the goal for which 
we had so long toiled. The moment it was recognised by the 
prince, he suddenly uttered a shout of heartfelt rapture, which 
thrilled through every bosom on board. 

The weather was quite calm, and it was 10 P.M. when we 
neared Nyappa, the most elevated island of the group, and the 
birthplace of Darco. He seemed quite excited, and had some 
misgivings about the mountain people, who he feared had 
conquered his father's tribe, who lived upon the seaboard. 
That he might satisfy himself upon this point, he desired to 
be first landed upon the Island of Riger, where his mother's 
people resided. Accordingly, we steered for that island, and 
the next morning were close upon it, with our flying jib-boom 
fairly pointing into the land, over a coral reef, and within hail- 
ing distance. 

The land towered up, in the form of an irregular truncated 
cone, about 2000 feet above the sea, and was covered, from its 
base to its summit, with groves of cocoanut, banana, bread- 
fruit, and various other beautiful tropical trees and plants, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



79 



presenting to our view a magnificent garden in the form of an 
amphitheatre ; while on the left, in one spot about one third 
of the way up the cone, shot forth, with a low, rumbling noise, 
great white clouds of steam, that rose up, in one vast white col- 
umn, hundreds of feet into the air, mingling with the clouds. 
A more imposing scene it is impossible to imagine. 

The following drawing represents Riger and its wonderful 
boiling spring. 




A host of naked savages, armed with spears, slings, and 
war-clubs, stood on the beach opposite the vessel, chanting 
their war-song, and motioning us in threatening attitude, with 
their spears and war-clubs, to be gone. Finding that we did 
not obey their signal, they hurled a volley of stones at us 
with their slings. 

Prince Darco ran out upon the boom, and hailed them in a 
loud voice, saying that he was " Telum-by-by Darco, the son 
of Mogagee, the Tumbuco of Nyappa." At this the natives 
ceased chanting their war-song, and held a grand consulta- 
tion upon the beach, while the war tum-tums and conchs 
pealed forth a warning din throughout the island. 

Presently the consultation ended, and the savages stood 
arrayed along the beach in battle array, while a noble-looking 
red warrior advanced to the water's edge, and, shaking his 
spear at us, cried out at the top of his voice, " You make lie 
to kill us ! You killed and eat Darco many moons ago ! We 
know you, Pongo, very bad. Can't kill us on land ! We kill 
you ! You afraid of magic stone /" 

With this the savages uttered the war-yell and brandished 
their war implements, while the tum-tums were beaten with 
increased fury, 



80 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Darco again hailed them : " Me no speak lie ! me real 
Darco. Pongo good man ; no eat me ! Me hab been to Amer- 
ica! Me come ashore alone, and show you !" 

" You speak lie plenty !" shouted the red warrior. " Te- 
lum-by-by Darco not white like you !" 

" Me not white !" shouted Darco, as he stripped off his duck 
shirt and trousers, and hung them on the jib-stay, upon which 
he seized, and stood up in a commanding attitude, exposing 
his bare body full to the view of the savages, while he stretch- 
ed out his muscular arm and pointed at them with his hand, 
and shouted, " You see me. I am Prince Darco !" 

At this the war-yell and tum-tums ceased, and the savages 
gazed at their beloved prince in silent wonder and amaze- 
ment. Not a sound broke the solemn stillness save the mur- 
muring of the surf upon the beach and the carolling of birds 
among the verdure of the paradisiacal garden that almost hung 
over the vessel, shading us with its dense and lofty foliage. 

The savages, having now become convinced that they real- 
ly beheld their former prince, all shouted his name, broke 
their spears, and, dashing them upon the ground, scattered in 
all directions to relate the joyful tidings ; and we soon heard 
his name shouted up the mountain-side by hundreds of voices, 
and borne along until it faintly died away in the distance 
around the island. 

Prince Darco now announced his determination to jump 
overboard and swim ashore. The captain persuaded him to 
land among his subjects in a more kingly style ; and, with 
nothing on but a red crown upon his head, he embarked in the 
boat, which pulled him to the edge of the reef, where he im- 
patiently jumped overboard and swam ashore, while the boat 
returned to the vessel, for we knew not what might be the re- 
ception of our seamen among the savages. 

The prince was instantly recognised by his people, who tes- 
tified their joy and affection by uttering shouts of welcome 
that might have been heard for miles to seaward. These were 
quickly followed by a general embrace from every individual, 
and I will venture to assert that a more happy meeting never 
took place between an exiled monarch and his people, not 
even excepting Napoleon's return to France from Elba. 

In about an hour Darco returned to the vessel in a big war- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 81 

canoe, followed by a fleet of smaller boats, paddled by his 
mother's people, who threw on board cocoanuts and bananas. 
He told us that his people thought, when he had his clothes on, 
that he was Pongo's (the devil's) imp, set up to deceive them. 
In this delightful and healthy climate, they knew nothing of 
the use of clothing, and wondered that he should restrain his 
limbs by wearing it. When he told them about America, 
they listened in wonder, and could get from his statements no 
definite opinion, except that it was situated in the moon, and 
inhabited by spirits and hobgoblins. They informed him that 
Mogagee, his father, was dead, and that his people were con- 
sequently in a distracted state in Nyappa ; that the mountain 
people had been committing depredations upon their planta- 
tions of golopo, and had carried off Nape, the young and beau- 
tiful daughter of his cousin Ragotur. In short, Prince Darco's 
arrival had been most opportune ; and, as heir-apparent to the 
throne of Nyappa, his presence upon that island was immedi- 
ately called for, to soothe the distracted minds of his people, 
and restore peace and happiness by leading them on to battle 
to chastise into submission their mountain foes. 

Darco announced his determination to spend the day with 
the people of Riger, and then embark for Nyappa in the ves- 
sel. Accordingly, we lay to off and on the land. W and 

myself embarked with him in his war-canoe. 

A clamorous host of savages stood upon the beach to re- 
ceive us ; before we touched the land they rushed into the 
water and surrounded us, while our boatmen leaped out, and 
the whole troop seized hold of the canoe, carrying it high and 
dry upon the beach, where they set us down, amid a great 
crowd of savages, of both sexes and of all ages. Darco was 
encompassed by the oldest men and women upon the island. 
Some seized him by the hands, others embraced his legs and 
feet, while several caught him round the neck, and fairly wept 
upon his bosom. He was much affected by these unequivocal 
demonstrations of affection, and the big tears rolled down his 
cheeks. 

While this was going on, we were surrounded by a more 

,* youthful class, and found it almost impossible to move hand or 

foot. Some of them wet their fingers and rubbed our hands 

and arms, to ascertain whether the colour of our skin was nat- 



82 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

ural and permanent, or only artificial ; and wondered how hu- 
man beings, with so pale a skin, could live and be healthy. 
Others played with and admired our hair, while the young la- 
dies indulged the inquisitiveness of the sex, to which, though 
savages, they were by no means strangers, by examining our 
clothes, trying on our shirts and caps, and making many awk- 
ward attempts to incase themselves in our pantaloons. They 
finally came to the conclusion that we used our clothing as 
defensive armour. 

Darco was at length enabled to come to our assistance, and 
caused his people to form a circle around us, that we might sit 
down and get a little fresh air, and the natives at the same 
time might have a better view of us. He also told us to keep 
off our shirts, and thus to show his people that we were will- 
ing to conform to their style of dress, and thus to gain their 
confidence and friendship. This advice was scarcely needed, 
for by this time we had given them away, at least by tacit con- 
sent, and two young women might have been seen stalking 
about with the sleeves tied round their necks, and the bodies 
fluttering behind, followed by a curious host, who were exam- 
ining their fabric. 

The principal chiefs remained inside the circle, and Darco 
related to them the wonderful adventures he had encountered 
since his strange and mysterious captivity and exile from his 
beloved country. They listened with the most greedy avidity 

to his wonderful stories. W and myself had learned 

enough of Darco's language during the voyage to hold long 
and interesting colloquies with him, and had collected quite a 
full vocabulary. Indeed, we had been from the first his fa- 
vourites on board ; and to us he always communicated his 
doubts and fears respecting his ultimate return to his native 
islands. 

We could now perceive that, in gratifying his wonder-loving 
countrymen, he indulged in the traveller's license to an almost 
unpardonable extent ; but, as old Stapleton says, " It's all hu- 
man natur ;" at least, it must have so appeared to his auditors, 
whose credulity was now prepared to swallow anything, and 
the temptation to feed it of course was proportionably strong. 
He repeatedly appealed to us for a confirmation of his story, " 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 83 

which was readily given by our invariable answer, " A lee git-* 
ter tolum cazy IV 

Having astonished his auditors to his heart's content, we 
all adjourned to the Palace of Lavoo, where were assembled 
many aged chiefs, seated upon mats, to welcome Darco's re- 
turn. One of them in particular we judged to be 130 years 
old. We were soon seated in their midst, and they gazed at 
us in wonder. The palace was some forty feet square, built 
of logs and bamboo, and neatly thatched with palm-leaves. 

Four young girls came in and amused us with a lively dance, 
to the music of the tum-tum and pandean pipe. When they 
finished dancing, they brought us delicious fruit in baskets, and 
we feasted quite sumptuously. 

The most notable man present was Lavoo, the red warrior. 
He was a stout, thick-set man, about forty-five years of age, 
of medium height, and a commanding mien. His skin was of 
a mulatto or bright-red colour, and his hair was long and dark- 
red. His whole appearance was entirely dissimilar to that of 
the other natives, who seemed to look up to him as a chief 
patrician or patriarch of considerable note. His wife was a 
mild, pleasant-looking woman, the very counterpart of him- 
self in all other respects. They were brother and sister ! at 
least, so Darco informed me ; and from what he said, together 
with scraps of information that I afterward picked up among 
his people, I became convinced that it was true. I learned 
from various sources that Riger was first settled by a French- 
man named Laveaux, a surgeon in the exploring squadron of 
La Perouse. He obtained a wife or wives from Nyappa, and 
the present red warrior and his wife are the son and daughter 
of Laveaux, pronounced Lavoo, the name of the present red 
man. Hence the inhabitants of Morrell's Group frequently 
call the Island of Riger the Island of the Red Man, or Red 
Man's Island. 

In company with Darco and several chiefs, we walked out 
to view the surrounding scenery. Foot-paths led in different 
directions through the wood. " This one," said Darco, point- 
ing out a path, "leads to Pitar Cave, at the summit of the 
mountain, which contains the ' magic stone.' " 

This, as near as I could understand, was an old, rusty can- 
non-ball, upon which the natives looked with reverential awe, 



84 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

and supposed that, when danger was at hand, all they had to 
do was to retreat to Pitar Cave and invoke the protection of 
the magic stone. 

We pursued our way along the path of Tomboner, and as 
we advanced a rumbling noise became more audible. Sud- 
denly emerging from a thicker, we beheld, in a rocky dell, the 
great Tomboner Spring, a vast caldron of salt water in a ter- 
rific state of perpetual boiling. As I said before, the steam 
rose, in a huge white column, hundreds of feet into the air, 
and the surplus water ran off into the sea by a subterraneous 
passage through the lava rock. 

It was dangerous to approach the lee side, on account of the 
hot steam. We now witnessed the purpose to which the na- 
tives applied this wonderful boiling caldron. An Eve of a 
girl and an Adam of a young man came walking along a 
chasm, each with a bunch of jumping fish, and around the 
neck of the man hung a coil of line, while, resting upon his 
shoulder and steadied by his hand, he carried a long bamboo. 
Arrived on a shelving rock near the windward verge of the 
great Tomboner, they halted ; the man tied one end of the 
line to his bamboo, which he held extended towards the steam, 
while the girl tied the fish upon the other end of the line, and, 
with a powerful throw, cast them into the boiling caldron. 
The man held firmly on to the bamboo, and hummed over to 
himself a peculiar song, to which he marked time with his 
foot by stamping upon the rock. After the expiration of a 
certain number of " stamps," he drew back and hauled out the 
fish nicely boiled. Then he and the girl took them up and 
departed by the way they had come. Thus readily and easily, 
by the means nature has supplied, do the natives cook their 
food. They appeared, in this delightful and healthy climate, to 
lead a life of perfect nature, and to be happy and contented. 

W T hy, indeed, should they not be 1 Nature supplies them, 
all the year round, with the varied productions of the tropics. 
Their bread grows upon trees ; the pellucid bays, rivers, and 
lagoons teem with delicious fish, and nature herself helps to 
cook their food. They know not the wants and anxieties of 
an artificial state of society ; and, instead of being cooped up 
between brick walls, toiling out their lives as the slaves of 
avarice, they only work a little each day for themselves and 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 85 

families, and spend the rest of the time in plays and sports in 
the open air, in the enjoyment of robust health and buoyant 
spirits. Now they sail in their fleet canoes upon the placed 
lagoon ; now they draw the seine and skip the pearly hook ; 
now they sport and swim in the water, which is constantly of 
a delightful warmth ; now they repair their houses and ca- 
noes ; now each family cultivates what few golopo, and sweet 
potatoes, and yams they may require ; now they replenish 
their cocoanut, banana, and bread-fruit groves ; and thus their 
lives are spent in a round of enjoyment such as none can ex- 
perience who reside in a changeable climate, where the miser- 
able inhabitants are alternately scorched by the sun and fro- 
zen by the intense cold of a polar winter. 

Here, at the lovely islands in the tropical Pacific Ocean, 
where the land is elevated, and pure cool springs of soft wa- 
ter gurgle and murmur through the vales, fanned by delightful 
and invigorating trade-winds from the broad ocean, no epi- 
demic or endemic diseases exist, and the waters in the bays 
and lagoons are so pure and pellucid that a dollar can be seen 
lying upon the bottom thirty feet beneath the surface. 

Who would change such a life for the toils, and cares, and 
constant miseries of a moneyed slave 1 

But to the narrative. We now returned to the beach. The 
day was far advanced, and the fiery rays of the setting sun 
gilded the lagoon and the deep blue sea. Far away upon the 
ocean's swell loomed our fairy craft, with her tapering spars. 
W T e embarked in the war-canoe with Prince Darco and two 
celebrated braves, his relatives. One was named Wonger and 
the other Pongaracoopo. The latter was half-brother to Dar- 
co, and had been engaged in the attack upon the Antarctic at 
the time of Darco's capture, when he received several shot- 
wounds, losing one eye, and received a buck-shot near his 
shoulder-blade. 

These two braves composed the suite of the prince, and 
were to accompany him in our vessel to Nyappa, that they 
might announce the joyful news of his safe return from the 
moon ! We sat on the platform of the canoe ; on our right sat 
the prince, and on our left the two braves, while, strung along 
the length of the body of the canoe, sat ten sturdy natives, with 
paddles in their hands and parrot plumes in their hair. 

H 



86 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

A great crowd of natives had assembled on the beach to 
witness the departure of their beloved prince ; and one aged 
man rushed into the water and kissed Darco's hand, and cried 
and sobbed aloud, in fear lest, w T hen he got on board the ves- 
sel, Pongo would again carry him away, never more to return. 

" Wid-dery ran-i-vu-tu !" shouted the prince to the savage 
paddlers, who now plied their paddles with nerve and energy, 
with their parrot plumes flaunting in the breeze, as the light 
canoe skimmed cheerily away to seaward. The crowd of sav- 
ages upon the beach, headed by Lavoo, sent up a shout of joy 
that rung and echoed along the mountain slope, while Darco 
rose up in a commanding and noble style, shouting in reply, 
" Gow tol-ogo rume-bu orgo kerer; kiner-co-mer ru-mack-er 
Nyappa !" (I love my people much, and will be glad to see 
them at my house in Nyappa.) It was nearly dark when we 
reached the vessel and jumped on board, where we were heart- 
ily greeted by the crew. We squared away the yards, and 
steered for Nyappa. 

The two braves, our passengers, felt somewhat alarmed 
when the crew braced the yards, and feared that those big and 
lofty spars, held up by little ropes, would fall and crush them. 
We handed them a cannon-ball ; one took hold of it and speed- 
ily let it fall ; while they both gazed at it in wonder, putting 
their knuckles into their mouths, and then, snapping their fin- 
gers, cried, "I-yar! I-yar!" and said in their language, "Just 
the same as magic stone in Pilar Cave .'" 

We told them that it was one of our " spears, 1 ' and that, by 
putting it into our " sling," we could throw it from Riger to 
Nyappa ! They were struck dumb with astonishment ! When 
they recovered from their surprise, they requested to see us 
perform the feat, that they might tell their people of the white 
man's strength. We accordingly placed the ball in the "long- 
nine," and requesting them to seat themselves upon the trunk, 
that they might watch its progress, we applied the match ! 
At the sound of the discharge the two braves leaped off the 
trunk, and, like stricken deer, bounded to the taffrail in great 
terror, thinking that they were in the midst of Pongo* s (the 
devil's) abode, and that the magic stone had penetrated and rent 
asunder the mountains of Nyappa ; and so, to escape farther 
torments, they were about leaping overboard, when Prince 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 87 

Darco called to them to stop ; but it required all his eloquence 
to restore their calmness and soothe their perturbed spirits. 

At first they feared to enter the cabin, thinking that the ves- 
sel had no bottom, and that it led down to the bottomless pit ! 
When we placed them at the supper-table, they sat very un- 
easily, and, jumping up, examined closely the camp-stools upon 
which we had seated them. Having satisfied themselves how 
they were made, and that there was no charm about them, they 
again were seated. The knives, forks, plates, cups, &c, un- 
derwent a severe scrutiny. They thought that tin cups, bot- 
tles, and tumblers were shells that grew upon the coral reefs 
and sand-spits in the moon, for the express use of fairies , 
they understood a red earthen jar very well, for they made 
these themselves, and used them for holding water and as 
cooking-pots, to boil sweet potatoes in ; but they did not un- 
derstand how we glazed the pots so nicely, for theirs were uiv 
glazed, and as rough as a brick. 

The captain spread before them all the dainties of the cabin, 
viz., hard ship-bread, salt pork, salt beef, and a glass of brandy. 
They looked at these wonderful things some time, and would 
never have imagined they were made to eat, had not Darco 
requested them to taste them. They did so, and spit them 
out upon the floor, one by one ; and when they touched their 
tongues to the brandy, they dropped it suddenly, and crying 
out, " Rag-er-ter !" rushed on deck and rinsed their mouths at 
the scuttle-butt ; after which they seated themselves upon the 
trunk and eat bananas and green cocoanuts for their supper. 

Darco entertained them by relating his wonderful stories 
about America ; how the white people dressed and walked the 
streets in New-York between houses six stories high ! how 
great carriages rattled up Broadway, drawn by horses and filled 
with people, who were too lazy to walk ! how the big ships, 
propelled by hot water, all the same as Tomboner Spring, flew 
along fifteen miles an hour ! how the pretty ladies, with cheeks 
painted red, and veils over their faces, and shoes on their feet, 
tripped along over the stone pavements, &c. 

Of the use of shoes, the braves gathered but a sorry notion 
from all they saw of us ; for it was so delightful to go bare- 
footed in this climate, that we had kicked off all such useless 
lumber long ago, and in this respect had become partly sav- 



88 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



ages ourselves, from the captain down to the cook. We should 
probably have entirely forgotten such useless trash, had it 
not been that, now and then, in overhauling the hold, we 
came across a mouldy pair of boots, half eaten by the cock- 
roaches. 

Of all the hard stories that Darco told the braves, the one 
which to them seemed most improbable, and which they could 
not be made to swallow, appearing as it did an absolute im- 
possibility, was this, that in America water sometimes be- 
comes as solid as stone, and that the people walked on the 
surface of the rivers ! 

The next morning we lay to close upon the beautiful Island 
of Nyappa. It is composed of three central mountains, which 
rise up with gradual slopes from the sea, except in one spot, 
where the ascent is quite abrupt. The most elevated mount- 
ain is probably 6000 feet above the sea. The surface of the 
whole island is covered with a luxuriant verdure, from the 
beach to the summit of the mountains. The scenery present- 
ed to our view was one of charming beauty and picturesque 
loveliness. The little rural glens and valleys nestled among 
the mountain slopes were covered with the varied foliage of 
the tropics. 

The following drawing represents the outline or land view 
of Nyappa. 




We anchored near the land on a coral reef. Not a native 
could be seen, and the island seemed quite depopulated. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 89 



CHAPTER XIV. 

The two braves embarked in the boat and were approaching 
the beach, when the war-yell rang through the forest, and a 
vast body of savages poured out upon the beach in battle ar- 
ray, threatening our crew witn instant massacre. Seeing the 
danger with which we were surrounded, the two braves rose 
up and addressed the assembled warriors in a loud and ener- 
getic strain, accompanied by violent gesticulation. The host 
listened, and caught every word in mute astonishment and 
wonder. The braves leaped into the water and swam ashore, 
where they were received by the warriors in the most friendly 
manner. The host scattered like wildfire, and soon the joy- 
ful cry of " Telum-by-by Darco ! Telum-by-by Darco !" rang 
through the forest in all directions. 

In two hours a splendid war-canoe put out of a cove, man- 
ned by fifteen warriors, or chiefs of noble blood, who paddled 
for the vessel. Upon the platform sat the two braves, and af- 
ter the boat followed a fleet of smaller canoes, loaded with 
fruit. The foremost canoe soon arrived alongside, and the 
chiefs stood on our deck, where they surrounded and embraced 
with affection their long-lost and beloved prince, whom they 
hurried into the canoe and hastily paddled for the shore, fol- 
lowed by the fleet, the whole host chanting a greeting song, 
accompanied by the sound of the tum-tum. They soon enter- 
ed the cove, and were lost to our view. 

It was late the next day when a fleet of canoes approached 
the vessel, headed by the war-canoe, upon the platform of 
which sat Darco. He soon leaped on deck, followed by his 
dusky and brawny warriors, whose black hair was smoothly 
combed and ornamented with macaw-plumes, while their bod- 
ies and faces were striped with red paint. Darco informed us 
that he had that morning been crowned King of Nyappa, by 
the unanimous desire of the populace and chiefs in council 
convened. The mountain people had already heard of his ar- 
rival, and, fearing his power and influence with Pongo, they 
began to think of suing for peace. He said that he would 

H2 



90 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

immediately lead his warriors to battle, and felt confident that, 
by the means of his fire-arms, that he could at once terrify the 
mountaineers and bring them to unconditional subjection with- 
out bloodshed. In the mean time, he intended to keep his peo- 
ple at work collecting tortoise-shell, pearls, and other valuable 
articles, which he intended to lay up expressly for the captain. 

It was now mutually agreed that we should depart on an ex- 
ploration and survey of Morrell's Group, while King Darco 
should take up his residence among his subjects. According- 
ly, the captain fitted him out with all useful implements and 
articles of luxury that he might require during our absence. 
Several bags and packages, well filled, were passed into his 
canoe ; and among the articles which he received were a mus- 
ket, a pair of pistols, a cutlass, a lance, a harpoon, powder, 
shot, and ball, a grindstone, axes, hatchets, a draw-knife, a 
cleaver, bar iron, iron hoop, calico, beads, carpenter's tools, 
&c. We now bade him farewell, and he departed. 

A native youth had been left on board in charge of the cap- 
tain, and it was expected that he would be of some service as 

an interpreter. My friend W and myself, having taken 

a particular interest in the study of native languages, and hav- 
ing now become quite proficient in them, were frequently call- 
ed upon to act in that capacity. Indeed, W might, with 

propriety, have been called our linguist, so far as the languages 
of these islands were concerned. 

The next morning we got under way with a gentle breeze, 
and proceeded to make a critical exploration and survey of 
Morrell's Group. We found it to consist of four principal isl- 
ands, together with several minor islets, and numerous dan- 
gerous coral reefs that extended many miles to seaward. The 
sight of these reefs would deter an ordinary navigator, in an 
ordinary vessel, from prosecuting discoveries in these un- 
known regions. 

W^e anchored from day to day in different places, and, landing 
in our boats, performed many inland excursions. The natives 
were entire strangers to all trade, and quite unacquainted w r ith 
the actual value of the abundant products of their islands. We 
instructed them as well as we could how to collect the differ- 
ent articles, and gave them to understand that we would re- 
turn in a certain number of moons and purchase them, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



91 



The native names of the four principal and largest islands 
were, Nyappa, Garove, Mundawpa, and Riger. The smaller 
islets are named Beo, Lote, Car- car, &c. They are all 
beautiful, verdant islands. Mundawpa and Garove are not 
more than half as elevated as Nyappa. 

Garove is a singular island. On its south side we discover- 
ed the most secure and remarkable bay we had ever seen. 
The mouth or entrance is so conspicuous that you remark it 
the instant you sight the south side of the island. To give the 
reader a more definite and precise notion of it than words can 
convey, I present the following drawing taken upon the spot. 




One pleasant morning we entered this bay under easy sail. 
Two vigilant look-outs sat upon the fore-topsail yard-arm, and 
one man stood in the main-chains, throwing the lead at equal 
intervals, while around the bow, gathered in little knots, stood 
our crew gazing upon the wonders that gradually opened to 
view. The water was of a deep blue, and as clear as that of 
the fathomless ocean. Its smooth surface shone like a pol- 
ished mirror, except here and there, where a school of playful 
fish ruffled it by jumping into the air, while the sun shone upon 
their glittering scales, and made them shine like bars of sil- 
ver. As we advanced, new scenes opened, to our enraptured 
vision ; it seemed as if we were struck dumb for having pre- 
sumed to break in upon the solemn stillness and unequalled 
beauty of this fairy bay, which had lain in its grandeur and 
sublimity, undisturbed by man, from the creation of the world. 
These feelings were particularly heightened by the tale of the 
native youth, who informed us that a story was prevalent 
among his people that this bay was inhabited by mermaids, 
who resided in its rocky caves, making them echo with their 



92 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



music, and daily basked in the broad sunlight which fell upon 
the little island. Garove is uninhabited, and situated many 
miles from the other islands of the group ; the natives of Ny- 
appa, Riger, and Mundawpa have always feared to approach 
it in their canoes, lest the mermaids should destroy them by 
their influence with Pongo. 
The following chart represents this remarkable Garove Bay. 



^^^oj^ 




The track of the vessel is marked upon it. The man in the 
chains kept the lead going, while his loud drawling voice broke 
startingly upon the deathlike stillness, and echoed over the 
bay, and rang along its lofty walls, " No bottom ! an-d he-ave 
h-o, no bottom !" 

We anchored in Mermaid Cove, as marked upon the chart, 
and then we explored the bay in our boats, and roamed among 
the delightful shade of tropical trees, viewing the splendid 
scenery. 

There are no dangers except those which can plainly be 
seen, and a line-of-battle ship can enter the bay in perfect 
safety at all times. On the east side of the entrance is a small 
rocky islet, rising five feet above water, with a tree growing 
out of a fissure in its centre. The bay is nearly circular, and 
is four miles in diameter. Wharf Island, situated upon its 
eastern side, is composed of shelving lava rock, rising five feet 
above water, and quite level on the top, with here and there 
scattering clumps of underwood. The shores of this little isl- 
and are bluff, and rise abruptly from water of a vast depth, af- 
fording a complete natural wharf where a ship of the line can 
lie perfectly secure, with her hawsers lashed to the under- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 9S 

Wood. N.N.W. of this island, we got soundings in thirty-one 
and twenty-seven fathoms. The shores of the bay are high, 
steep, and covered with trees, except just around Mermaid 
Cove, where the land slopes down to a white sand-beach, off 
which there is good anchorage in ten and fifteen fathoms, 
sandy bottom. Here a ship can ride at anchor in safety, pro- 
tected from all winds and sea. A stream of pure water emp- 
ties into the cove, and the curving shores are lined with groves 
of cocoanut and other tropical fruit-bearing trees, while in the 
background, in a S.E. direction towards the sea, rises the no- 
table Look-out Peak (represented on the drawing at the west 
entrance of the bay), towering up like a mighty obelisk, over- 
looking the bay and surrounding scenery. It is composed of 
denuded and indurated clay, washed in gashes. A party of us 
ascended it, and seated ourselves upon its summit, to view the 
vast and sublime scenes spread out before us. 

Away in the distance, over the swelling ocean towards the 
southward and westward, loomed the dark outlines of Ny- 
appa, Riger, and Mundawpa, while round about to the north, 
and east, and west, lay the undulating and verdant vales and 
swelling knolls of benighted Garove. Beneath lay that placid 
sheet of deep-blue water, encompassed b}' the steep shores 
of Garove Bay, and which seemed to me as if it had once 
been the crater of a volcano that had rent itself asunder and 
admitted the waters of the ocean to extinguish its internal 
fires. Then beneath, northwest by north, lay, nestled among 
groves of cocoa-trees, Mermaid Cove, wdth our fairy craft ri- 
ding at anchor upon its bosom, and seemingly, in the distance, 
dwindled down to the size of our long-boat. 

When my eyes had compassed all this lovely scene, my 
mind wandered into dreamy revery. " Here would I plant a 
settlement of several honest, industrious, and virtuous fam- 
ilies. On the shores of Mermaid Cove would we build our 
bamboo cottages, plastered with coral mortar. Here each 
family would have their own house and plantation free of 
cost. They would be sure of a bountiful supply of all that 
they could desire, and be forever independent of the cold 
charity of an avaricious and money-loving world." Yes, if I 
ever visit the Pacific Ocean again, here will I plant a colony 
or trading- post. The agriculturists will reside around Mer- 



94 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

maid Cove and in the interior of the island, while Wharf Isl- 
and will be our shipyard and storehouse for the deposite of 
the productions of neighbouring islands, which we will pro- 
cure in our vessel from the trading-posts there established. 
The children of the colonists will grow up robust and healthy 
in this climate, sporting in the open air and bathing in the 
pure waters upon the sandy beach. I am sure that all this 
could be done without any hazard or privation whatever ; for 
forming a settlement here, where Nature has provided every- 
thing, is far different from settling a sterile soil in a wintery 
climate. The pioneers will reap the honours, the fame, the 
pleasure, and the profit. A settlement of the kind is needed 
in this vicinity for the relief and supply of passing vessels, 
and would receive not only the fostering aid of the American 
government, but of all civilized nations. The island could 
easily be defended against a host of enemies, and trading- 
posts could, at slight expense, be established in the neighbour- 
ing islands. 

If any navigator should fall in with these islands, or, rather, 
with Morrell's Group, he will at once know that they are the 
ones of which I am speaking by the drawings which I have 
here presented of natural scenes, to which no other group can 
show any comparable, viz., Riger and its Boiling Spring, and 
the Bay of Garove. 

But let us return to the narrative. Having completed our 
exploration of the group, we returned and anchored at Nyap- 
pa, and landed the youth. King Darco came off in great state, 
at the head of a fleet of canoes, with presents of fruit. He 
had carried out all his plans successfully, and was now, to all 
appearance, as much of a savage as ever. He had terrified 
the mountaineers into submission by the thunder which he 
seemed to draw from the clouds with his fire-arms, and had 
restored his people to peace and happiness. He had built a 
large canoe, and collected considerable shell. When I asked 
him if he wanted to go to America again he shook his head, 
and said, " No ; me more happy here !" 

The cunning fox was very careful not to teach his subjects 
the use of fire-arms. At their earnest solicitations, he would 
load his musket for one of them, and teach him how to dis- 
charge it ; but he always so overloaded it that it was certain 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 95 

to recoil and inflict a severe blow upon him who attempted to 
use it. This stratagem soon cured them of ci aping the thun- 
der of heaven." The " magic war-club from the moon" was 
ever after looked upon with fear and reverence, and it was 
thought that none but King Darco, or some one who had been 
to the " moon," could understand its mysterious use. 

During the several days that we remained here our crew 
frequently sported with the natives on the beach, and had 
many a jolly time among the villages. Canoes loaded with 
women and children came off to look at the " god-ship," or 
" big war-canoe." They were much surprised at all they saw, 
and crowded round the bow to examine our chain, thinking 
that it possessed some wonderful charm capable of holding 
the vessel fast, even where there was no bottom. Some of 
the girls climbed up our bob-stay, and, walking out upon the 
back-ropes, amused themselves by jumping into the water and 
swimming on board their canoes. It was amusing to see a 
curious knot of women and girls standing round the anchor on 
the bow, while some of the sailors were explaining to them, 
by signs, its use. 

Darco and several of the principal braves related to W > 

and myself, while we were spending the day with their families 
at their wigwams, a singular story in relation to the depopu- 
lation of Nyappa ; it had been handed down from mouth to 
mouth, and had, no doubt, been founded upon facts, which had 
been very much distorted and swelled into miraculous fables, 
the same as are current among all half-civilized people. We 
took great interest In this story, as it was the only historical 
record of Morrell's Group. During our frequent pow-wows 
with the different families, we picked up the whole narrative, 
and I transcribed it in my journal verbatim. 

As it may be of some interest to the reader, I will here in- 
sert it, that he may be enabled to form his own opinion as to 
its authenticity. 

KING DARCO'S STORY OF THE DEVIl/s VISIT TO NYAPPA ! 

A long time ago, or, in Darco's broken English, " too much 
a moon," before he was born, this region of the Pacific was 
visited, during the rainy season, by one of the most tremen- 
dous gales that had ever been known in that proverbially 






96 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

peaceful ocean. It continued with unremitting fury for three 
days, and is described as being terrific and disastrous in the 
extreme, being accompanied by a horrible tempest of thunder 
and lightning, and an earthquake that shook the Island of Ny- 
appa to its very centre. Shell-fish, from the bottom of the 
sea, were thrown upon the top of the water, and a vast num- 
ber of fish, ot various kinds, were driven on shore with stones 
or rocks of enormons size, and large fragments of coral from 
the neighbouring reefs. 

On the fourth morning after the storm had subsided, the in- 
habitants of the mountains were thrown into consternation by 
the sudden appearance of a nondescript monster, which, from 
their elevated position, could be discerned upon the ocean, 
about half way between Riger and Nyappa, making his way 
towards the latter island. This monster the natives called 
Pongo, or the Devil ; and a more diabolical creature, both in 
form and character, was never permitted to visit the face of 
the earth. The higlilanders, who first discovered him, were 
at this time, as is usual with them, engaged in deadly hostil- 
ities with the lowlanders, who inhabited Darco's section of the 
country ; and, on seeing the monster approaching the island, 
concluded that their enemies were about receiving assistance 
from their great ally the devil, who was now coming in per- 
son to join their standard. 

This monster is represented as having many heads, each of 
which is furnished with a long black horn, projecting from the 
forehead and covered with fire. The eyes in each head were 
large and fiery ; the mouths of huge breadth, and armed with 
teeth of enormous size. He was also furnished with a great 
number of arms and legs, long as our lower studding-sail 
booms, which served, like the legs of a centipede, to walk with. 
Out of each mouth was blown a flame of fire, which killed his 
enemies from a great distance, and the sound of his voice was 
like distant thunder. 

The mountaineers, terrified at the approach of such a dread- 
ful re-enforcement to their enemies' legions, immediately de- 
spatched an ambassador to the lowlanders, with overtures of 
peace, instructing the messenger to accept of any terms which 
might be offered by Darco's people, and to ratify the treaty 
without delay ; as Pongo, who had long frowned upon their 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 97 

bloody quarrels, -was now coming himself to settle their foolish 
disputes, and might, in his anger, sink the whole island. The 
approach of the envoy gave the first intimation which Darco's 
people received of Pongo's coming ; and, when they saw the 
monster approach that part of the island where they resided, 
they also became alarmed lest the devil had been summoned 
to take part with their enemies ; and they, therefore, hastened 
to make a treaty of peace with the ambassador, on the first 
terms he offered, which was ratified on the spot, to the univer- 
sal delight of both parties. 

In the mean time, Pongo continued to advance, with his nu- 
merous wings and limbs in constant motion, until he came as 
close to the shore as the surf would permit, and surveyed that 
part of the island where Darco's village was situated, with 
great minuteness, for some time. He then turned about and 
started in the direction of Riger; not, however, without nod- 
ding several of his horned heads in a very significant, and 
threatening manner, as if he would say, as Darco expressed it, 
" Never mind ! bom-by me come back and eaty you !" 

After Pongo's departure, the people marvelled at the short- 
ness of his stay, and the object of his visit. Finally, the chiefs 
held a council to discuss the subject, the old men of both par- 
ties being invited to attend. This conference resulted in the 
conclusion that the only object of Pongo's visit was to put a 
stop to the hostilities which had been so long carried on among 
his children ; and as they had already settled that matter among 
themselves in an amicable manner, he of course had gone off 
satisfied. 

Nothing more was seen of Pongo for several days, though it 
appears he was not idle. The canoes that went out to sea on 
fishing excursions never returned, and no intelligence was 
ever received of the fishermen, although the weather contin- 
ued to be remarkably fine ; and it was naturally concluded that 
they were destroyed by the devil, who was afterward seen to 
land in the night and kill many of the inhabitants. These 
enormous depredations very much alarmed the inhabitants of 
Nyappa, who knew not how to guard against the insidious at- 
tacks of such a foe ; for he now became imboldened by suc- 
cess, and assailed and captured their canoes before their eyes, 
in the day as well as the night, devouring their fishermen and 

I 



98 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

burning their canoes. Both highlanders and lowlanders be- 
came his victims indiscriminately, which at length convinced 
them that Pongo was not the friend of either-party; so both 
concluded to unite their forces to resist his assaults, and to 
punish him for his wanton and lawless aggressions. 

They therefore fitted out a formidable squadron of armed 
canoes to attack their common enemy. They first sent out a 
decoy-canoe, to divert the monster's attention, while the main 
squadron remained concealed under cover of the mangrove- 
trees, which line the shores at some points of the island, over- 
hanging the water in natural arches. The stratagem was 
partially successful. Pongo had just risen from the bottom of 
the sea, evidently on another errand of mischief; he no sooner 
saw the decoy-canoe than he gave chase to it, spouting streams 
of fire at the men, that killed some and wounded others of 
them, as they retreated towards the ambush into which Pongo 
suddenly found himself decoyed. He was now furiously as- 
sailed, on all sides, by the warriors of Nyappa, who were arm- 
ed to the teeth, and prepared for the battle. The combat on 
both sides was waged without cessation, and with great fury, 
and much blood was spilled before it approached a termina- 
tion. At last (added Darco) Pongo's anger was kindled at be- 
ing so desperately attacked by such contemptible enemies as 
he considered our islanders : " he speak thunder and lightning 
too hot cause him too much mad! him kille too many my 
people !" 

One man only of all who came out upon the ocean to assail 
the monster escaped to tell the story ; and he swam on shore 
from the burning squadron with the disastrous news that 
" Pongo kill too many with his tongue !" which was very long, 
and " break my people all a pieces !" 

After this fruitless attempt of the inhabitants of Nyappa to 
punish their foe, he became a thousand times more insolent 
and annoying than ever, plundering and murdering the natives 
in the most wanton and cruel manner. The young women 
were even stolen from their beds and wives torn from the 
arms of their husbands, and never heard of afterward. These 
outrages were not to be endured, and the inhabitants of Nyappa 
finally resolved to fly from a scene of such intolerable danger, 
and seek an asylum on the farther end of Mundawpa, which 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 90 

was then uninhabited, as well as the other islands of the 
group. 

The inhabitants of Nyappa, both Highlanders and lowland- 
ers, in general council convened, therefore unanimously re- 
solved to abandon their island and migrate to this new home, 
as there appeared to be no other way to escape the anger and 
hatred of Pongo. In accordance with this resolution, a gen- 
eral removal at once took place. Canoe followed canoe, 
deeply laden with flying inhabitants, and many days had not 
elapsed before Nyappa was left almost entirely depopulated. 

A female belonging to Darco's tribe, named Peepe, the 
daughter of a subordinate chief, was, about the period of Pon- 
go's first appearance, beloved by a highland chief, whose name 
was Voh-aree. Their attachment was mutual ; but, owing to 
the political dissensions of the two tribes, a union of the two 
was out of the question. But Peepe continued to elude the 
vigilance of her parents, as well as the Argus eyes of her 
people, and passed much of her time in the mountains with 
her lover. She began to be terrified at the prospect of dis- 
covery, and, in order to avert the fate which she knew await- 
ed her should her disgrace become known, resolved to remain 
concealed in the mountains, while her lover took care to 
spread the report that she had been carried off by Pongo ; 
and she was, accordingly, mourned by her people as another 
of the monster's victims. 

In the mean time, the general migration to Mundawpa took 
place, while Peepe's false-hearted lover kept her in ignorance 
that such a movement was in contemplation ; and Voh-aree 
finally emigrated himself,, leaving his faithful mistress to con- 
jecture that he had been slain by Pongo. In flying to Mun- 
dawpa, he yielded to the fears of his people and consulted his 
own safety, while she who had yielded everything to him was 
basely abandoned and left secreted in the mountains. 

Peepe, from her elevated situation, saw them all depart in 
the direction of Mundawpa. The fatal truth now first flashed 
upon her desolate heart, and she found herself alone upon the 
island, with no one to speak to or sympathize with her suffer- 
ings. She then fell into a paroxysm of grief, and spent her 
days in fruitless sorrow. Every morning saw her fixing her 
longing eyes on the plains of Mundawpa, and vainly weeping 



100 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

for her lover's return ; but false-hearted lovers are the same 
in all countries and in every climate, from the equator to the 
pole, and, of course, she saw her lover no more forever ! 

Peepe had strength given her to support the trying afflic- 
tions through which she was doomed to pass, and gradually 
became resigned to her condition. The birth of two fine twin 
boys gave her something to live for and something to love. 
They divided her tenderness and her cares, while she still 
mourned the loss of their perfidious father. Nourished and 
strengthened by the pure mountain air, the two boys grew 
apace, until they were at length able to assist their mother in 
procuring food and other necessaries for support. She taught 
them to swim, and to spear small fishes which had become 
entangled among the corallines on the reef, and made for 
them little lances of small bamboo, pointed with a barbed fish- 
bone, and they soon became skilful in climbing tall trees to 
procure the fruit for their mother. With the agility of mon- 
keys, and the skill and ingenuity peculiar to savages, they 
would climb the tallest cocoanut, banana, and bread-fruit 
trees, the ripest fruit of which they would joyfully throw 
down to their mother. These two children were all the as- 
sistance and all the society which Peepe had for years, and 
with them she was comparatively happy. As the boys in- 
creased in size and strength, Peepe increased the length of 
the spears she made for them, so that they could spear larger 
fish and hunt the wild boar, until they finally became expert 
hunters ; and, lastly, she made them each a canoe, in which 
they could venture a little farther from the shore, and take 
fishes of still larger dimensions with pearl hooks. But, with 
all a mother's fondness and a mother's fear, she continually 
cautioned them against falling in with Pongo, the monster 
who had deprived them of a father and herself of a husband. 
She would then relate the whole history of Pongo's persecu- 
tions, and the consequent emigration of her people to Mun- 
dawpa. 

This story they had heard so often from their mother, that 
they secretly resolved to build a still larger canoe with their 
own hands, and to pay him, with interest, the bloody debt 
they owed him, imagining that such weapons as had been 
furnished them for killing fishes and animals might be sue- 



IN THE TACIFIC OCEAN. 101 

cessfully levelled against such a hateful monster. They were 
well aware that, if Peepe were to obtain an inkling of their 
chivalrous intention, it would be instantly forbidden by their 
careful mother, and that the greatest caution was requisite on 
their part to avoid awakening her suspicions. 

The youths had now reached the age of sixteen, and were 
busily, but secretly employed in building their war-canoe, in a 
distant and retired recess of the island, determined to avenge 
their father's death and their mother's sufferings on the per- 
son of Pongo, if they could find that monster, whose residence 
was supposed to be upon the Island of Riger, as he had al- 
ways come from that-quarter to commit his depredations upon 
Nyappa. The two boys, with incredible labour, constructed 
a road from their mother's dwelling in the mountain to the 
seashore, where their canoe was finally launched, and loaded 
with spears and javelins suitable for their purpose. To mark 
the course of this road distinctly, they had covered it with 
white coral sand conveyed from the shore, and had deposited, 
at convenient distances, numerous bundles of spears by the 
roadside, ready for immediate use on the landing of Pongo. 

When all was prepared, they told their mother that they 
had discovered a new fishing-ground, where a great plenty of 
fish could be taken, but that its distance would render it ne- 
cessary for them to be absent two or three days, for which 
period they begged leave of absence. She consented, and 
they went away. 

On the third day Peepe was agreeably surprised at behold- 
ing her sons returning in safety along their new road, which 
she now saw for the first time. As soon as they were near 
enough to be heard, they shouted the joyful tidings that Pon- 
go was killed, having fallen by their hands, and now lay a 
headless corpse in the road behind them. To prove that 
they spoke the truth, they exhibited the bleeding head, which 
Peepe immediately knew to be the monster's by the horn that 
projected from the forehead, and great was the joy of Peepe 
and her gallant sons. The lads immediately embarked, with 
the bloody trophy of their victory in their canoe, and convey- 
ed the joyful news to their countrymen at Mundawpa, where 
great rejoicings took place in consequence of the fall of Pon- 
go and the safety of Peepe. A counter-emigration soon took 

12 



102 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

place, by which most of the ancient inhabitants of Nyappa 
returned to their deserted homes. 

The twin heroes became great chiefs, from whom Darco him- 
self descended in a direct line, and who still lives and recounts 
the story of his ancestors, with the fullest faith in its authen- 
ticity. 

On the return of the emigrants from Mundawpa, the ancient 
feuds between the highlanders and lowlanders were soon re- 
vived, and continued with unabated animosity to the present 
day ; and, though Darco confesses his descent from the mount- 
ain chief Voh-aree, he cannot speak with patience of any of 
the highlanders. 

Soon after the death of Pongo and the return of the fugitive 
inhabitants, a great smoke was seen rising one day from Ri- 
ger, which excited much curiosity at Nyappa, as Riger had al- 
ways been supposed to be an uninhabited island. Many per- 
sons conjectured that this smoke was caused by some of the 
imps, or little monsters, to which Pongo might have given be- 
ing previous to his destruction by the sons of Peepe. To sat- 
isfy themselves on this subject, they sent an expedition to Ri- 
ger, headed by several distinguished chiefs, among whom were 
the sons of Peepe, to discover the cause of the phenomenon, 
with directions in no case to hazard a contest with monsters 
of any description, but if they found themselves opposed in 
landing, to return immediately to Nyappa. With these in- 
structions, the expedition departed, and, on landing at Riger, 
they discovered that the fire which produced the smoke that 
had caused the alarm had been kindled by two children, a boy 
and girl of fair complexions, who immediately accosted them 
in the language of Nyappa, and informed them that they had 
kindled the fire for the express purpose of procuring assist- 
ance from Nyappa, as their mother had just expired after a 
short illness ; and that she had, in her last moments, enjoined 
them to do so, in order that her body might receive the rites 
of burial from her own countrymen. On examining the corpse, 
still lying in their hut, the Nyappians at once recognised a fe- 
male who had long been mourned by them as one of Pongo's 
victims. They, of course, buried the body ; and some of them 
were so well pleased with the island, that they resolved to 
settle upon it, which they did, at the same time adopting the 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 103 

fair orphans as their own children ; who, in due time, grew up 
and became the founders of a new race of people, now known 
as the Red Men of Riger, and this island is sometimes called 
Red Men's Island, or the Island of Lavoo the Red Chief. 

I have often thought of this strange story, and the sincere 
manner in which Darco related it to us ; and I confess a strong 
disposition to believe that it is founded upon incidents connect- 
ed with previous visits of Europeans to these islands. Why is 
it improbable that the vessels of La Perouse were stranded upon 
some of the numerous coral shoals which abound in the vicinity 
of these islands, during the continuance of the terrible gale of 
which the natives preserve the memory ; and even if it had 
taken place out of sight of the land, or upon other islands, is 
it not possible that the crew might have mutinied and embark- 
ed in different directions in the boats or small craft constructed 
by them 1 A small craft with oars might have been easily 
mistaken by these ignorant and terrified natives for Pongo. 
They wear no hats, and French officers or sailors, with cocked 
hats trimmed with gold lace upon their heads, would not look 
to their terrified imaginations unlike men with horns growing 
out of their heads, and fiery eyes ; and their muskets held in 
an aiming position, might be likened to very long tongues that 
" spit fire plenty, and break-e my people all a pieces !" 

These deductions seem to me to be strengthened by the 
fact which we ourselves witnessed, that these natives refused 
to receive their own beloved prince when clad in clothing. 

If the tradition of the devil's visit to Nyappa is not connected 
with the fate of the lamented La Perouse, it certainly must be 
with that of some civilized white men ; and a mystery here 
remains to be solved ! 



CHAPTER XV. 

Having completed our business at Morrell's Group for the 
present, and having matters of importance to accomplish at 
other more noted and more extensive groups of islands, which 
down to the present day are perfectly unknown to all civilized 



104 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

nations, we bade farewell to King Darco, and his kind, simple- 
hearted people, and were soon again under way. With all 
sail set and. a steady wind, we steered out into the broad Pa- 
cific Ocean, and by dark were out of sight of land. 

The next day was pleasant, except a rain squall in the af- 
ternoon, which soon blew over, however, and left the sky se- 
rene and pure. We made rapid progress during the next day 
and night, and harpooned a dolphin. 

The next day the look-out cried " Land ho !" It was the 
E. coast of New Ireland, along which we sailed ; we doubled 
Cape St. George, passed through the channel of the same 
name, and in a few days were in sight of the north coast of 
New Britain, to the eastward of Cape Gloucester.* 

We are now entering upon strange and unknown scenes ; 
and in order the better to understand our position and the 
character of our expedition, a brief reference to the universal 
lack of information concerning this quarter of the globe may 
not be useless or uninteresting. 

That vast region of the Pacific Ocean known by the gen- 
eral term of Tropical Australasia, remains almost totally un- 
explored and unknown to the present day. It is thickly in- 
terspersed with vast islands, and groups of smaller islands in 
countless numbers, which comprise the most beautiful, pro- 
ductive, and healthy countries in the world. It is all this coun- 
try and unknown region that I am about to lay open to my 
readers. 

The first account recorded of this region appears to have 
come from the Portuguese, who were informed by the Ma- 
lays that a large continent existed to the eastward ; and 
there is no doubt but that the Malays of the Spice Islands 
were acquainted with the existence of the west end of Papua 
as far back as the year 1500. Indeed, it is unknown who dis- 
covered the latter island. The first official record of their ex- 
istence is found in the archives of Spain, when that nation 
was in her glory and the mistress of the seas : Meneze and 
Saavedra, two illustrious Spanish explorers, sighted in the dis- 
tance a few miles of the coast of Papua, and then departed 
without knowing whether it was an island or a great " south- 

* See the chart that is appended to this book ; to the latter island I have 
applied the native name " Bidera," for reasons hereafter stated. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 105 

ern continent." Alvaro de Mendana, a renowned Spanish 
general, sailed from Peru to the westward on an exploring 
voyage. He discovered, in the year 1568, an extensive group 
of islands, which he named the Solomon Archipelago, suppo- 
sing that the country abounded in gold, and that here King 
Solomon had derived all his treasures. He landed on one of 
the islands, and the native chiefs, as a mark of esteem, and to 
propitiate his friendship, most generously immolated a human 
being, and presented him for his meal the roasted quarters, 
with the arm and hand attached, of a plump boy. The gen- 
eral received the dainty food, but, instead of eating it, order- 
ed it to be buried upon the spot in presence of the assembled 
chiefs and populace, who took great umbrage at these sacri- 
legious proceedings, and at the contemptuous manner in which 
their votive offering had been received. 

The general's followers, who were mostly ignorant and big- 
oted soldiers, insulted the natives, and fired upon and killed 
several of them without the slightest provocation. The na- 
tives became exasperated, and, rising en masse, fell upon the 
Spaniards, and drove them from the island on board their ships, 
in which they set sail and returned to Peru. 

Mendana, upon his return, gave such a flattering account of 
the beauty, loveliness, and richness of the paradise of islands 
which he had discovered, that the Spanish sovereign fitted out 
two ships expressly for him to return to the islands and plant 
a colony. Accordingly, he embarked, accompanied by his wife. 
The colonists, or, rather, emigrants, who embarked with him, 
were principally men of broken fortunes, who sought, with 
their families, to better their condition in the " land of prom- 
ise." Some, however, were spirited young men, fond of ad- 
venture, and had embarked for a new home, with their loving 
"ladies faire." Mendana and his followers sailed, and, while 
cruising about in quest of the islands, fell in with another 
group, now known as the Charlotte's Archipelago, upon one of 
which (Santa Cruz) he landed. He searched for the Solomon 
Archipelago in vain, and, being sorely troubled by the impor- 
tunities of his followers, when the provisions began to run 
short, he sickened and died. His followers continued search- 
ing for the "land of promise," until they became discouraged, 
whereupon they returned home much disheartened. It is 



106 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

worthy of remark, that at one time they sailed within eighty 
miles of the southeast end of the archipelago of which they 
were in quest. 

It was well for the natives that Mendana could not find the 
islands he had discovered ; for the outpouring upon their virgin 
soil of such a host of desperate bankrupts and adventurers 
would have destroyed the inhabitants and soon impoverished 
the islands. The knowledge of the situation of the Solomon 
Archipelago became entirely lost, and all "knowing" Span- 
iards doubted the existence of any such land. They believed 
the story of its discovery to be a cunning device of Mendana for 
renown, and to get money from the government. 

A Cape Cod man, with an old quadrant, the sun's declina- 
tion, and a codfish log, would think it strange if he could not 
find land he had once seen, and which, like the Solomon Ar- 
chipelago, spreads over six degrees of latitude and eight of lon- 
gitude. 

P. F. de Quiros, a Spaniard, in 1G06 discovered Espirito 
Santo, the largest and most northern of the Hebrides. He 
was wantonly cruel to the natives, seizing upon their canoes 
and robbing them of their fruit. He did not find out that he 
had discovered an island, or a group of islands ; but hurried 
home with the wonderful account that he had discovered a 
part of the great " bug-bear," the great " Terra Australia !" 
The best part of the story is, that this navigator, celebrated as 
he was, could not tell any one where the land was situated, 
and the knowledge of it remained in statu quo. 

Luis Vaez de Torres, a Spaniard, in 1G06 explored, or, rather, 
sailed along in sight of, the south coast of Papua. In several 
places the simple-hearted and unsuspecting natives came off 
to the vessel in canoes. He seized twenty of them, whom he 
tore from their kindred and home, and carried away as prison- 
ers on board of his vessel. The strait between Papua and 
Australia has since received his name ; but no one knows 
whether he ever saw the latter island, or even knew that he 
was in the strait. 

Jacob le Maire and Wilhelm Cornelisz Schouten, two Dutch 
navigators of note, in 1616 were prosecuting an exploring 
voyage in the Pacific Ocean, in two ships which sailed in com- 
pany. In latitude 15° 20' S., and at a distance from the coast 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 107 

of Peru, "computed" to be 1510 German leagues, their offi- 
cial report states that no land was in sight ; they saw a sail ; 
" took it to be a Spaniard ;" found it to be a canoe full of 
" strangers," and under full sail ; fired three cannon to bring 
her to ; " this was not understood," and the canoe retreated rap- 
idly. They then despatched the boat, with an armed crew, in 
pursuit ; they fired their muskets upon the nonresisting " stran- 
gers," several of whom were wounded mortally, while the 
rest, consisting of men, women, and children, uttered a shriek 
of despair, and, after throwing their culinary utensils and or- 
naments into the sea, they leaped after them, with their babes 
in their arms. Several were drowned. 

After this, these two navigators discovered the north coast 
of New Ireland, and anchored in a harbour 3° 20' S. The na- 
tives were warlike, and fell upon the Dutchmen with stones 
thrown from slings, with war-clubs, and wooden swords. 
They attempted to tow the vessels on shore, but not succeed- 
ing, assailed them with their missiles. The Dutchmen de- 
fended themselves with cannon and muskets. Twelve savages 
were killed, and no one knows how many were wounded, 
while the rest jumped overboard and swam for the shore as 
speedily as possible. Four canoes were hoisted inboard and 
split up by the cook. 

On the same coast, to the north, they killed more natives 
and took prisoner a lad eighteen years old. These navigators 
discovered the easternmost of the Admiralty Group, " without 
knowing it" and brought up among the mountain islands, off 
the north coast of Papua, as they report, " almost without 
knowing it." Off the north coast of the latter island they an- 
chored in latitude 1° 56' S., near two small islands. In their 
boats they proceeded to land upon one of the latter, for the 
purpose of getting cocoanuts from the beautiful groves which 
abounded upon it. A great many curious natives stood on the 
beach, observing their approach. Le Maire thought that they 
intended an attack ! accordingly, a cannon-ball was fired from the 
vessel into their midst to scatter them. 

They " scattered" like moschetoes before a gale, and the 
valiant Dutchmen landed without opposition, and stripped the 
favourite groves, which the natives had planted and tended 
with great labour and constant care. The savages soon ral- 



108 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

lied and poured a volley of arrows upon their unprovoked as- 
sailants. The Dutchmen retreated to their vessels, in double 
quick time, with fifteen wounded. Adrien Calesz had an ar- 
row shot through his hand. Strange to tell, these savages 
were friendly immediately afterward, and brought off fruit to 
sell. To these two little islands he gave the native names of 
Moa and Arimoa. Le Maire and Schouten, then, discovered 
the north side of Mysory ; but they knew nothing about Jobie 
or the great Geelvink Bay of Papua. 

Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutchman, in 1643 sailed along in 
sight of a small part of the north coast of Papua ; he saw col- 
oured water and floating trees, and anchored near Moa. 
A native shot a sailor with an arrow ; and another native was 
wounded with a musket-ball. The natives took a friendly fit 
soon after, and brought off large quantities of cocoanuts. 

Captain William Dampier, the celebrated bucanier, in 1700 
anchored in Slinger's Bay, on the north coast of New Ireland ; 
the natives came off in canoes, armed with slings. He after- 
ward sailed along in sight of the south side of New Britain, 
and anchored in a harbour which he named Port Montague. 
Here he ventured to land for wood and water. He fired upon 
and killed several natives, and robbed them of their hogs and 
fruit, and then departed. This was the only spot, where he 
dared to land. He sailed along to the westward in sight of the 
coast, and discovered that New Britain was divided from Pa- 
pua by a strait, through which he sailed. Like other naviga- 
tors of that day, he knew not how to find the longitude. 

The Dutch yacht Geelvink, fitted out at the Asiatic Islands 
(by whom commanded I know not), m 1705 discovered Jobie 
and the Great Bay of Papua, which was said to be fifty leagues 
in width and the same in depth. The Dutchmen took too 
many liberties with the natives at its foot, and four of the sail- 
ors were killed with arrows. They seized five native men ; 
and at Jobie laid violent hands upon four men and three young 
women. Six of these they tore away from their friends and 
home, and carried prisoners to Batavia, from which place some 
of them were sent to Holland for exhibition. 

Admiral Jacob Roggewein, a Dutchman, in 1721 passed by 
numerous fine islands in the Pacific Ocean, but did not know 
their situations. The scurvy infected his ship, and his men 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 109 

died almost daily, and were thrown overboard. With their 
last breath they openly cursed their commander for want of 
skill and for pusillanimity in not stopping at the beautiful isl- 
ands which they saw on every side, and where they might 
have obtained vegetable food and pure water, which would 
have saved their lives. He was afraid to stop at places dis- 
covered by himself, and felt bound to follow in the track of Le 
Maire and Schouten, and anchor at the little islands of Moa 
and Arimoa, to rob the natives of their cocoanut groves. The 
natives were very friendly, and brought off large quantities of 
fruit to sell. The valiant admiral would not buy fruit ; but, 
mustering his large crew, all well armed, fired upon the na- 
tives, and carried death and devastation upon the islands, cut- 
ting down and wantonly destroying beautiful groves of cocoa- 
nut-trees, simply to obtain the fruit and save the trouble of 
climbing them ! 

What a favourable impression the admiral must have made 
upon the minds of the natives of the justice, the generosity, 
and hospitality of white men ! It is not strange that they 
thought them devils, bent upon the destruction of all their race. 

Roggewein'S' exploring voyage is more obscure than any 
other, and has been the subject of much confused geographical 
discussion. There is nothing known of its history or results 
which is connected with my subject. 

M. Surville, a French navigator, in 1767 fell in with a group 
of islands, and, supposing that they were a new discovery, 
named them the "Arsacides," after the famous assassins of 
Persia and Syria, because the inhabitants appeared to be per- 
fidious and bloodthirsty. He discovered Port Praslin, and 
gave their names to Contrariety and Deliverance Isles. It was 
only the southeast end of the group that he saw, and even that 
he did not thoroughly explore. 

Mons. de Bougainville, a celebrated French navigator, in 1768 
fell upon a group of islands, and, supposing them to be a new 
discovery, named them the Great Cyclades. They are now 
known as the Hebrides, and are without doubt the very islands 
discovered by Quiros, and named by him " Terra Austral del 
Espiritu Santo ;" and,peradventure, the Groningen and Thien- 
hoven of Roggewein. Bougainville then fell in with the clus- 
ter of islands that form and extend off from the southeast end 

K 



110 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

of Papua. While among these lovely islands, he became quite 
alarmed lest his vessel should be wrecked upon the coral reefs 
and sand-spits which abounded. He was glad to hasten his 
escape from the dangers that surrounded him, and named it 
the Gulf of the Louisiade. So great was his joy at discover- 
ing a cape, by doubling which he was enabled to quit forever 
this archipelago, that he named it Deliverance Cape. He ex- 
presses his great joy at having escaped " shipwreck and starva- 
tion." It is strange how any man could fear such calamities 
when sailing among one of the most beautiful and productive 
archipelagoes in the world. 

Bougainville next stumbled upon an archipelago of large and 
beautiful islands, which he at first took to be a new discovery ; 
but finally very justly concluded that he had now rediscovered 
the long-lost Solomon Archipelago of Mendana, whom lie now 
proved (contrary to the opinions of the knowing Spaniards) not 
to have told lies for fame or money. Bougainville only saw 
in the distance the northwest end of the archipelago, and one 
of the largest northern islands now bears his name. He very 
properly gave the most northern the native name of Bouka. 
He did not land, and found out little or nothing about them. 
After this, when his wood and water were consumed, and dis- 
ease prevailed on board for the want of fresh provisions or 
vegetable food, he ventured to land in what he " took to be" 
St. George's Bay, on New Britain, as it was named and no- 
ticed by Dampier. But it proved to be no bay at all. 

Captain Carteret, an able British seaman, in 1767 was driven 
by a current into the above-mentioned St. George's Bay, upon 
the eastern shore of which he landed. One place he called 
English Cove and another Carteret Harbour. At the moutli 
of the latter are two small islands, one of which he named 
Leigh's Island and the other Cocoanut Island. Sailing to the 
northward, he discovered St. George's Bay to be a strait, di- 
viding the land known as New Britain. He named the eastern 
land New Ireland, along the south side of which he sailed. 
He discovered Sandwich Island, and named Byron Strait, New 
Hanover, and the Portland Isles. Next he fell in with a group 
of beautiful, verdant, and spicy islands, which he deemed a 
new discovery, and named them collectively the Admiralty 
Islands. This group is the very one discovered by Le Maire 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. Ill 

and Schouten, and by them mistaken for Ceram. Hundreds 
of bold and warlike savages came off in canoes, and threw 
lances at the seamen as they stood upon deck. A cannon and 
several muskets were discharged among them ; some were 
killed, others wounded, and the rest retreated. Carteret only 
sailed along in sight of the south side of the group. He men- 
tions particularly its enchanting appearance and picturesque 
beauty. He was very sick at the time, and many of his crew 
were down with the scurvy ; but nothing could induce them to 
land among the cannibal savages. 

Captain James Cook, that justly celebrated British naviga- 
tor, visited but a small portion of Tropical Australasia. In 
1772 he explored the group discovered by Quiros and redis- 
covered by Bougainville. Thinking he had a right to name it, 
he called it the New Hebrides. Two years before this, he had 
sailed through Torre's Strait, in sight of the south coast of 
Papua. At Cape Walsh he was struck with astonishment and 
wonder by the sight of a party of savage warriors, who stood 
upon the beach and aimed "fire-arms" at him, which they dis- 
charged. Smoke and flame were seen to issue forth, and he 
took his departure without having ascertained how these sin- 
gular and mysterious "fire-arms" were constructed ! for they 
made no report ! 

I fortunately have it in my power to clear up this wonderful 
mystery. The " fire-arms" were long " copper-coloured" gourds, 
with a hole in one end, and filled with lime. As the savages 
projected them towards the navigator, the lime flew out of the 
hole and formed the " smoke !" while the sun shining upon the 
gourd gave the appearance of " fire !" 

Captain Shortland, an Englishman, in 1783 sighted the Sol- 
omon Archipelago, and sailed through a strait which he named 
after himself, and in which is situated a group of islets, which 
he named the Treasury Islands. He supposed that the mass 
of this country was one solid body of land, and inferred that 
the natives called it Simbu. Some suppose that the strait he 
sailed through had previously been discovered by Bougainville ; 
but the supposition is entirely erroneous. 

Lieutenant M'Cluer, an Englishman, in 1790 discovered and 
sailed through Revenge Strait, which he named ; it is situated 
between the islands of Salwatty and Papua. Soon after he 



112 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

discovered the inlet that bears his name, and in which one of 
his officers (I think the surgeon) was most cruelly massacred 
by the savages. 

Captain d'Entrecasteaux, the celebrated French navigator, 
who sailed in search of the lamented La Perouse in 1792, 
visited the southeast end of the Solomon Archipelago, and, in 
a kind of flying visit, verified and ascertained more correctly 
the situation of certain points seen by Surville and Shortland. 
In 1793 he visited the Archipelago of the Louisiade ; sailed 
through Dampier's Strait, and saw part of the north coast of 
New Britain, which he intended to explore ; but being sick and 
in a dangerous state, he abandoned so hazardous an enterprise. 
He describes the navigation as dangerous in the extreme, and 
says, " The whole extent of this navigation is extremely dan- 
gerous ; for a length of twelve hundred French leagues, a line 
of rocks or breakers, nearly level with the water, runs along 
the bottom of the sea. In this route it is probable that the un- 
fortunate La Perouse perished." 

About the rocks the French navigator has made a sad blun- 
der ! 

Captain Forrest visited the Island of Waigoo, and discovered 
Dory Harbour Papua. 

Here is an array of the names of the celebrated ancient nav- 
igators who visited Tropical Australasia ; still, it will be seen 
that all of them together knew little or nothing about the coun- 
try, except the general trend of the land in particular places 
as seen in the distance. Most generally they were afraid to 
land, on account of the warlike cannibals which were sup- 
posed to inhabit the islands. Then, again, those terrible reefs 
of " rocks," that run along the bottom of the sea, were obsta- 
cles too formidable for them to surmount. This country has, 
indeed, been so generally given over to demons and hobgob- 
lins, that when we first arrived, and before we began to pene- 
trate the mystery that hung over it, every step we took was 
taken with hesitation and terror. 

The renowned Captain d'Entrecasteaux did, indeed, enter 
into quite a minute exploration of New Caledonia ; and so did 
the illustrious Cook, who also explored the New Hebrides ; 
still, the exploration of the latter group is not completed ; there 
are islands embraced in it not marked upon Cook's chart. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 113 

The knowledge of the islands of Tropical Australasia is ex- 
ceedingly imperfect ; and, as might be expected, the names by 
which they are generally known are always in bad taste, and 
in a great many cases applied without the slightest propriety. 
They were given, oftentimes, by men who neither discovered 
nor explored the islands. Dampier took the liberty of calling 
the two islands, now known as New Hanover and New Ire- 
land, New Britain, thus showing that he deemed them both 
one, and identical with what has since proved to be a third. 
Both of them, moreover, were discovered by Le Maire and 
Schouten, and Dampier himself never saw the north side of 
New Britain, which he confounded with them. 

Carteret discovered that New Britain was divided by what 
he named St. George's Channel ; and this induced him to alter 
the name of the eastern part of the land that Dampier had al- 
ready named. Accordingly, he named it New Ireland, and 
sighting at its northern end the mouth of what he supposed to 
be a strait, he named it Byron Strait, and the land to the north- 
ward New Hanover. Neither Carteret, nor any of the ancient 
navigators, ever saw the north side of the island now known 
as New Britain. D'Entrecasteaux did, indeed, sight in the dis- 
tance a portion of the northwest coast, and that is all. Dam- 
pier sailed so far off from the south coast of the latter island, 
that he did not know whether it was one island, or divided by 
a strait. It is even now supposed that this island is divided, 
and it is so laid down on our best charts and globes. They 
prove to be wrong, however, by the discovery which we 
made that New Britain, from Dampier's Strait to St. George's 
Channel, is one continuous body of land, except that it may be 
divided by some creek or river which we did not explore for 
the entire distance across the island.* 

* It seems to me that, in consequence of recent discoveries, and especially 
of those made by the expedition of which this work gives the history, a re- 
vision of the names of the islands of Tropical Australasia is demanded. The 
names by which they are at present known, besides being most inappropri- 
ately and ignorantly applied, are often ludicrously incorrect, so far as they 
seek, by comparison with other countries, to describe the character of the isl- 
ands themselves. To name any of these delightful lands, basking in the 
light and heat of a tropical sun, and abounding in everything that can satisfy 
the physical wants or delight the sensual tastes, after the cold, damp, sterile 
regions of the Scottish or the Irish coast, as is now the case, is palpably ab- 

K2 



114 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Difficulties had by this time arisen between the captain and 
the agents of the owners of the vessel, the merits of which I 

surd. In ordinary cases, it seems reasonable for the discoverer of any group of 
islands to give to them, collectively, any name he pleases, having due regard 
to taste and propriety ; and then, so far as possible, to preserve to the indi- 
vidual islands the appellations by which they are known to the natives them- 
selves. With these rules for my guidance, having made the discovery of the 
native names my particular study, I have taken the liberty of endeavouring 
to restore them to their respective islands. They are designated, on the 
chart affixed to this work, by these native names, and the following expla- 
nation will afford the means of readily identifying each : 

New Britain I have called Bidera. 

New Ireland " Emeno. 

New Hanover " Pclego. 

Central Island of the Admiralty Group Marso. 

New Guinea " Papua. 

The vast archipelago, known on different charts as the Solomon Archipel- 
ago, New Georgia, and Arsacides, it seems to me should properly be named, 
after its discoverer, the Mendana Archipelago : the native name of the nor- 
thernmost island of the group is Bouka ; the one next south is named, prop- 
erly enough, after its discoverer, Bougainville ; and the native names of the 
three next in order are Baropee, Soternnba, and Cambendo. The group of isl- 
ands now known by two names, viz., Great Cyclades and Hebrides, it seems 
proper to name, after their discoverer, the Quiros Archipelago. The strait 
which divides Bidera from Emeno may well be called, after its discoverer, 
Carteret Strait. That part of the ocean which is bounded N. by the Admiral- 
ty Islands, E. by Pelego and Emeno, S. by Bidera, and W. by Papua, may be 
comprehensively and properly named the Bidera Sea. That part of the ocean 
which is bounded N. by Bidera, E. by Mendana Archipelago, S. by Rennels' 
and Satisfaction Islands, and by the Louisiade Archipelago, and W. by Papua, 
in the same way may be called the Papua Sea. These names, it will be 
seen, correspond with those of the Mindoro, the Sooloo, the Banda, and the 
Java Seas. 

The Island of Papua is 1200 miles long; Bidera, 2G0 ; Emeno, 200; Pele- 
go, 40; Admiralty Islands, 100; Mendana Archipelago, 600; Quiros Archi- 
pelago, 260 ; Caledonia, 240; and Louisiade, 100 or more : making, in all, an 
extent of land 3000 miles in length, and presenting a seacoast of over 6300 
miles. The magnificent Island of Papua is alone as large as England, Scot- 
land, Ireland, France, Spain, and Portugal together ! Still, we know little or 
nothing about this vast country; and upon our best and latest charts it is 
marked " but very little known !" 

There is no chart of Tropical Australasia of the slightest service to those 
who sail upon its seas. The one appended to this book is only intended to 
represent the general trend of the main body of land, and to exhibit those isl- 
ands of which I have just given the names, and of which I have yet consid- 
erable to say. From discoveries which we made, it is evident that hundreds 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



115 




116 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

shall not discuss, but which led the captain to believe himself 
released from all obligation to prosecute the voyage for their 
benefit. He determined, accordingly, whether justly or not is 
a matter to be determined by facts which I do not feel at lib- 
erty to make public, to open a trade at their expense, and at 
some future time to return, in a vessel of his own, and reap 
the profits. Now that the opportunity offered, he decided to 
prosecute a thorough exploration of Tropical Australasia ; to 
enter all the most dangerous and unknown places, and, with 
apparent recklessness, to risk everything upon the hazard of a 
single die. 

Captain Morrell was a brave and daring navigator, and as 
able a seaman as ever walked the deck of a ship. In scenes 
of danger he was always at his post, and commanded as if it 
were by instinct. So long as we obeyed orders, everything 
worked well, but when we disobeyed, we roused the lion and 
felt his anger. Every soul on board feared, though all respect- 
ed him. The crew had already tasted of the delights of being 
on shore, upon beautiful islands, among the natives ; they 
were charmed with the climate, and the apparent ease with 
which a comfortable living could be obtained, and were, ac- 
cordingly, delighted with the intentions of their captain. 

The scenes through which we had already passed, the mys- 
terious region we had now entered, and the view of the tow- 
ering and verdant mountains of Bidera, tended to inspire us 
with a feeling as if we had taken a final leave of civilized life, 
and entered a new and unknown world. With a swift and 
well-armed vessel under his feet, and a large and chivalrous 
crew at his command, far away from the control of law, Cap- 
tain Morrell in a measure became " outlawed," and so did we 
all. The crew were mostly composed of brave, hardy, and 
chivalrous young men, in the heyday of youth, and we had 
come here to gratify a spirit of adventure ! The time, the 
place, and the scene roused us to action ; and, led on by our 
daring captain, we shared his spirit, and resolved to follow him 
in his hazardous and adventurous undertaking. 

of beautiful islands, spacious bays, noble rivers, lagoons, dangerous coral 
reefs, and sand-spits lie scattered about in all directions, and have never been 
seen by civilized man. Some of the islands are uninhabited, though of the 
most rich and delightful character. To explore all this country, and draw 
correct charts, will require many years, and prove an arduous as well as haz- 
ardous undertaking. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 117 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Here I resume the thread of my narrative. It was on a 
pleasant morning that we steered for an elevated mountain, 
which was visible in the distance, on the north coast of Bide- 
ra. Ten miles from the land our progress was checked by a 
dangerous barrier of coral reefs, which extend along the whole 
coast in detached patches, some rising near to the surface, and 
others with ten and fifteen feet of water upon them. Indeed, 
the whole space between the barrier and the land was filled 
with scattering coral reefs, shoals, sand-spits, and islets ; upon 
some of which the sea broke with fury, while between the 
windings of the dangerous labyrinth, currents set in all direc- 
tions, forming dangerous tide-rips, which sent towards us an 
echoing murmur, seeming to say, " Thus far mayest thou go, 
and no farther; beyond all is hazard and disaster." 

But our brave captain was not to be daunted by the appear- 
ance of any danger ; the coast of Bidera must be reached, 
even if we laid our bones upon the reefs in the attempt ! On- 
ward we sailed, directly upon the breakers of the barrier. 
Two sharp look-outs sat upon the fore-topsail yard. The cap- 
tain slung his telescope over his shoulder with a piece of spun 
yarn, and, walking up the fore-shroud, seated himself upon 
the fore-truss, where he took an observation of the breakers, 
which now roared audibly and angrily as we rapidly neared 
the swell and foam. " Stations !" cried the captain. Every 
man stood ranged, and awaiting, in breathless suspense, our 
doom among the breakers. 

" Luff! keep her full and by !" 

The lofty green combers curled and dashed around us, as 
we glided through a narrow and deep channel, inside of the 
outer barrier, where we were in a measure protected from the 
heavy surges of the ocean. We commenced thridding the 
labyrinth that lay between us and the land. Each man had his 
station, and if one interfered with another's duty, a low grum- 
bling remonstrance was speedily heard. We prided ourselves 
upon the crack appearance of our craft, and took no little in- 



118 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

terest in having everything " ship-shape and Bristol fashion ;' 
and we had the vanity to think that no other crew could " spin 
the vessel round," and handle her so rapidly, in scenes of dan- 
ger, while performing difficult nautical evolutions and daring 
feats of seamanship. 

Now we grazed the verge of a reef upon which an eddy 
swept us. " Keep her off a point !" 

"Starboard a little!" "Steady!" and the rapidly-succeed- 
ing commands of the captain, as speedily obeyed as they were 
given, carried us out of the apparent danger. 

For a time we scudded along with flowing sheets, but were 
again brought to a dead stand by finding ourselves completely 
embayed among dangerous green coral patches, quite close to 
which the water was of a deep blue, and gave no soundings ; 
so that an anchor was of no use to prevent our driving upon 
them in a heavy blow. The day was far advanced ; we put 
about our ship, retracing our course, and standing again out to 
sea. It was dark when we entered the pass through the outer 
barrier, and, the wind falling away, the captain shouted, " Man 
the sweeps ! man the sweeps ! a little farther, and you're safe ! 
anchors can't save us here !" We strained every nerve, and 
shot safe out upon the Bidera Sea, where we lay to until day- 
break, when we again got under way and made another de- 
scent upon the reefs. 

Having discovered a new pass, we entered it, and sailed 
safely through the outer barrier, and advanced towards the 
land ; following up the perplexed and sinuous channels, con- 
tinually performing difficult and rapid manoeuvres, with all 
hands on deck. 

We steered for a point of land which, upon a near approach, 
we discovered to be formed by numerous small islands, con- 
nected by coral reefs and sand-spits. Some of the latter began 
to assume the appearance of islets, lately reclaimed from the 
ocean, with clumps of trees and underwood growing upon their 
centres. All the other islets were covered with a forest of 
trees. 

We were now upon soundings, but the navigation was ex- 
tremely intricate and dangerous. We were beating through 
a narrow pass between a reef and sand-spit. We nearly ran 
upon the latter, and were preparing to " club-haul," when the 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 119 

sweeps brought us safely round; but, as fate would have it, a 
counter-current swept us down directly upon the dangerous 
reef. We exerted ourselves to the utmost to prevent the im- 
pending danger. Nothing but a chef d'ceuvre in seamanship, on 
the part of the captain, saved us. We soon found ourselves 
safe in a deep strait or lagoon, that lies between the coast of 
Bidera and the small islands and reefs. It was night when we 
discovered the mouth of a fine bay, into which we sent our 
boat, with an armed crew and a signal-lantern, to sound the 
channel, while we followed under easy sail. At 10 P.M. we 
anchored at its foot, in nineteen fathoms water, with a bottom 
of mud and sand, about half a mile from the shores of Bidera. 
The night was dark ; the rattling of the chain, and the shouts 
of the crew, in bunting the sails, broke startlingly upon the 
silence which reigned around. 

We turned into our hammocks completely tired out ; and 
soon not a noise was heard, save the tramp of the anchor- 
watch, and the song of frogs and crickets in the neighbouring 
forest. 

In the morning we triced up the boarding netting and washed 
down the decks, after which I seated myself in the main-top, 
upon the arm-chest, journal in hand, to sketch the surrounding 
scenery. To the north lay stretched out, east and west, the 
long line of small islands and reefs, that shut us in from the 
sea. To the south rose, in gently-waving undulations, the 
verdant and lovely lands of Bidera, until near the centre of the 
island they attained the elevation of mountains. The charm- 
ing prairies, woodlands, valleys, and rivulets — the bay, its 
coves and indentations, and the pure white sand-beach, seem- 
ed all to lie in a perfect state of nature. The great white 
cockatoo, macaws, and birds of beautiful plumage fluttered 
and twittered over the tree-tops of the valleys, in conscious 
security and perfectly tame ; while to seaward, from some of 
the sand-spits, rose up great flocks of aquatic birds, while thou- 
sands of fish sported upon the surface of the beautiful lagoon. 
Not a habitation or human being could be seen ! Here lay 
spread out this productive, rural, and magnificent country, 
gently inviting and wooing the husbandman to come and culti- 
vate its soil, bathe in its lagoons, and lounge beneath the shade 
of the widespread woodlands. 



120 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

It seemed sad that so rich a soil should lie beneath so beau- 
tiful a sky, untouched by the hand of man, while thousands 
upon thousands who might live here in ease and plenty, toiled 
out their lives in slavish and destructive labour, a prey to the 
exactions and artificial necessities of a civilized community. 
The climate varies as you ascend the mountains. Teak wood 
abounds, and it is acknowledged to be the most durable for 
ship-building. Sugar-cane, nutmegs, ginger, tobacco, and all 
the tropical fruits are indigenous. Coffee, indigo, rice, spices, 
cotton, and all the productions of the tropics will here find a 
genial climate and soil, as well as upon all the principal isl- 
ands of Tropical Australasia. Amid the attractions of this 
beautiful and virgin scene, our crew seemed to have forgotten 
all the terrors and dangers of ancient navigators, and lay loun- 
ging around the deck, spinning yarns and playing cards under 
the awning, while the wind-sails opened their mouths to re- 
ceive the trade-wind and ventilate the between-decks. 

A report was passed along that three canoes were coming ; 
one by one the sailors slowly and reluctantly dropped the 
cards to see if the report were true. We soon saw three ca- 
noes filled with natives ; but instead of coming they were 
" going," retreating, as rapidly as possible, from the small isl- 
ands in the lagoon, having evidently taken us for the devil, and, 
with commendable horror, being anxious to quit our neighbour- 
hood. The canoes were filled with men, women, and chil- 
dren, without clothing, and excited by a common fear. 

A shipmate was snoozing, at the rate of ten knots, in the 
stern of the long-boat. I awoke him to look at the natives, 
but his laziness was greater than his curiosity, and, after vent- 
ing his spleen in a string of oaths which I must be excused 
from repeating, he again laid down, and was soon as sound 
asleep as ever. 

I had laboured under the impression that we were in great 
danger of being eaten by cannibals here ; but when I saw our 
crew taking things so coolly, I began to imitate their example. 
I had been dreaming of Sawney Bean, the man-eater. 

The captain manned the boat with an armed crew and start- 
ed in pursuit of the canoes, which retreated to one of the small 
islands near the main, and, scampering over the beach, the na- 
tives hid themselves in the bushes, from the covert of which 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 121 

we found it impossible to entice them ; so, after exploring a 
neighbouring sand-spit and shoal, we returned to the vessel. 
In the afternoon another canoe made its appearance near the 
point of the small island. We again manned the boat and 
gave chase. The natives plied their paddles with all speed, 
and we made after them in hot pursuit, around the west end of 
the island. Presently the canoe turned a point, and the na- 
tives abandoned her upon the beach, and, shouting the alarm, 
fled towards a village, which we now saw for the first, beauti- 
fully imbowered amid cocoanut and palm trees. We landed, 
armed to the teeth. The inhabitants rushed out of the houses 
in great confusion, and, at sight of us, uttered a wild shout of 
horror and fled for the forest. One tall young woman carried 
a babe in her arms, while a little naked urchin bestrode her 
neck and clung with its little hands to her flowing hair. One 
of the most agile of our crew followed close upon her heels, 
and had nearly overtaken her as she entered the forest, when 
the captain called us to muster, and advised us not to scatter, 
for we knew not what might happen. 

Stationing four sentinels, one at each angle of the village, 
we proceeded to inspect the houses. They varied in form 
and size, but in general each house was twenty feet long and 
ten broad ; the peak of the roof was ten feet high and the eaves 
about five feet and a half. At each end was a doorway, which 
admitted all the light. The whole was constructed of bamboo, 
thatched very neatly with cocoanut and palm leaves. In most 
of the houses we found bedsteads, and a full assortment of 
fishing-nets, together with curiously-wrought implements of 
war and the chase ; also culinary utensils, of wonderful con- 
struction, and many elaborately-carved ornaments of shells 
and bones. In the rear of one house w r as a smouldering fire, 
near which lay cockle and lion claw shells of enormous size. 
Our crew was disposed to appropriate these articles to their 
own use, but the captain would not allow us even to touch the 
most minute article ; so, hanging various trinkets in front of 
the principal house, we returned to the vessel. 

The next day we heard native voices, and saw several ca- 
noes near the island upon which we had landed, and which I 
shall name Leo Island, after the chief of the village, whose 
name we afterward ascertained. We manned the boat as 

L 



122 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

usual, and started after the canoes, which retreated to the 
shore, but with less precipitation than before. A sand- spit lay 
near the island, upon which were only two feet of water; 
here we landed one of the crew, who stood in the water up to 
his knees, waving and flourishing- trinkets, and making- friendly 
signs towards Leo Island, while we returned with the boat to 
the vessel and awaited the result. Upon seeing the boat go 
away, the natives left their ambush, and, embarking in their 
canoes, paddled slowly and cautiously towards the man upon 
the sand- spit. We sent our boat towards him, as a protection, 
or, rather, precaution, in case of danger. At this the natives 
again retreated towards the shore. 

We now took the man from the sand-spit, and, pulling round 
the island, landed him upon the beach in front of the village, 
and then withdrew round the point to reconnoitre. It was not 
long before we saw several canoes, filled with savages, pad- 
dling from Bidera across the lagoon, in the direction of the vil- 
lage, in front of which they w 7 ere about to land. Our Jack-tar 
now showed himself, and made a flourishing display of glitter- 
ing trinkets. At sight of so w r onderful and mysterious an ob- 
ject, who seemed to have taken possession of their village, 
the savages retreated in the utmost confusion, and with the 
greatest haste. 

Not being able to open any communication with these su- 
perstitious and terror-stricken savages, we again returned on 
board the vessel, all the while endeavouring to devise some 
plan or stratagem to gain our purpose. It was suggested that 
we should land at midnight, invest the village, and make the 
natives prisoners ; but this was a course we did not wish to 
pursue until every other should have failed. 

We afterward understood that the savages had returned to 
the village, and. having seen the trinkets upon the chief's 
house, they were so astonished and alarmed that they again 
fled. They thought that this was our fashion of taking posses- 
sion of a house, and that we intended to return and dwell in it. 
The house thus distinguished by the gods was therefore ta- 
booed, and the proprietor, who was a great chief, felt much flat- 
tered at our condescension. 

The next day we landed in front of the village, and caught 
the natives at home. They now appeared to have more con- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 123 

fidence in our good intentions, and were about to present us a 
peace-offering - , consisting of a fine large hog and plenty of 
tropical fruits and sugar-cane ; but, as our ill luck would have 
it, the captain leaped on shore with a spear in his hand, and 
the natives, mistaking this for a hostile demonstration, aban- 
doned the hog and were about to take to flight, when he broke 
his spear and dashed it upon the ground, while all of us broke 
off green branches from the shrubbery, and waved them in 
token of friendship. At length, after much manoeuvring, we 
succeeded in allaying their terrors, and finally in establishing 
an amicable intercourse with them. 

The trinkets with which we had decorated the chief's house 
still hung undisturbed, and the savages continued to cast upon 
them looks of suspicion and doubtful reverence. The captain 
took them down and formally presented them to the proprietor 
of the house, w T ho was a respectable-looking and aged chief or 
patriarch. His name was Peo-Leo, and he evinced much de- 
light at being thus distinguished above his fellows, and ex- 
pressed his gratitude by depositing the hog and fruits in our 
boats, and by presenting us some boiled golopos, which proved 
to be a very wholesome and edible root. The day being far 
advanced, we presented all the chiefs of note with a string of 
beads, bade them farewell, and returned on board of the vessel. 

The next day we again visited the village. Much of the 
timidity of the natives had worn off, and they became very 
friendly and sociable. We spent nearly the whole day with 
them, in endeavouring to open a trade. I quartered myself 
with the family of a friendly chief, and endeavoured to learn 

all of the language that I could, and so did W- , for we were 

the principal linguists of the expedition. We picked up many 
words, particularly names of things, from the children who 
came to play with us, and examine our hair and try to wash 
off the " white paint" upon our bodies, so as to make us the 
same colour as themselves. We had already become part 
savages ourselves, and as for clothing, wore but little ; our 
hats, shirts, and trousers, however, underwent a severe and 
minute scrutiny. Peo-Leo and the principal chiefs visited the 
vessel, and were much surprised at all they saw. After this 
our communication with the natives of Leo Island became quite 
frequent, and the women came off to look at the god-ship. It 



124 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

was a sight worth seeing. How the ladies stared and won- 
dered, while our swaggering gods of sailors explained all the 
mysteries of the vessel to them ! It was evident that they 
looked upon us as children of the sun and moon, and thought 
that we were immortal, and too pure for this sublunar world. 
They had no doubt of our perfect ability to cure the sick, the 
lame, the halt, the deaf, and the blind! An old woman, who 
was afflicted with a kind of leprosy or frightful eruption that 
had spread nearly over her whole body, and presented a most 
disgusting sight, applied to the captain for relief, in the same 
humble spirit of faith and confidence which, in olden times, 
drew from Divine lips the assurance, " Thy faith hath made 
thee whole." The captain, however, whose lips were not 
particularly divine, merely bade her " call again to-morrow." 
This she received as an implied promise of succour, and de- 
parted very happy in the hopes it had excited. 

W was not only linguist, but he had charge of the 

medicine-chest, and, for want of a better, he acted as physi- 
cian. The next day he and myself were ordered on shore by 
the captain, for the purpose of dispensing the blessings of the 
Great Spirit upon the sick and wounded. We landed in front 
of Leo village, well provided with everything that might be 
required. We notified the chiefs of the purpose for which we 
had come. Placing our chest of implements upon the smooth 
sand-beach near the water's edge, we drew a circle around it 
with our boarding-pikes twenty-five feet in diameter. The 
line thus traced we filled with gunpowder, which the damp- 
ness of the sand moistened, so that it could not explode sud- 
denly. All this time the natives had been gathering around, 
anxiously watching these mysterious proceedings. 

In the centre of the mysterious circle, beside the chest, we 
planted firmly in the ground a large rocket, and near the cir- 
cle, upon a pole, we secured a blue-light. Then seating our- 
selves back to back upon the chest, with pikes resting upon 
the sand and held upright by one hand, we warned the popu- 
lace not to advance nearer the circle than the stakes which 
we had driven in the sand outside ; for the space inside was 
tabooed. 

A vast host of naked savages had now assembled, and were 
crowded around in mute wonder and astonishment ; but no one 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 125 

ventured inside of the stakes, for they looked with dread upon 
the ' : mysterious circle." 

" Sar see a-shing ou-nomer ve-lal-lar !" shouted the sava- 
ges. (Here comes the woman with the bad blood.) 

Now the old woman with the leprous back advanced with 
tottering steps up the passage, holding a fan-palm mat in her 
hand, and gazing steadfastly at us and the " circle," while the 
host cheered her on as far as the " stakes," where I met her 
with a mysterious wave of the pike, and bade her follow me 
inside of the circle, where she spread her mat and seated her- 
self upon it. The passage closed up, and the savages crowded, 
in a dense mass, around the stakes, all gazing with astonish- 
ment and in silence upon our preparations. W rose and 

waved his pike, quite ominously, three times over the chest ; 
and then, wheeling suddenly, he waved it three times over the 
old woman's head, and planted its glittering blade in the sand 
midway between her and the chest, which he opened, and 
took therefrom a tumbler that contained a liquid. This pro- 
duced quite a stir among the savages ; those who stood far off 
elevated themselves on tiptoe, while the women raised the lit- 
tle urchins upon their shoulders, that they might thereby have 
a better look at the mysterious incantation scene of the great 
medicines. 

W presented the tumbler to the woman, and cried, 

"Tow-o-nu!" (drink). She took the tumbler and quaffed its 
contents, without apparently tasting it. It was a dose of cal- 
omel and jalap. We applied to her afflicted body soap and 
water, with Harlem oil, secured her wounds from the air and 
dirt by some clothing, and gave her a mug of sulphur and mo- 
lasses, with directions how to take it. We also cautioned her 
against eating too heartily of her favourite dish, " roast pig," 
and then, mysteriously waving our pikes over our heads, we 
bade her depart. 

The " old lady" folded her mat, with the most thankful and 
elated hopes, and with full faith in the Great Spirit. It seemed 
as if she already walked more firm and brisk, and the savages 
greeted her with a wild shout of joy. 

The next patient who came was a plump young girl. She 
seated herself in the circle and held out her finger. In it stuck 
an iron fish-hook, and it was much swollen. She was the 

L2 



126 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

youngest daughter of the chief in whose wigwam I had been 
quartered, and she had received the hook as a present from 
one of the crew. We cut it out, and wrapped her finger nicely 
in bazilicon and lint, and she departed as well pleased as the 
old lady. 

We administered medicines and advice to several others, 
until night was upon us, and our business had been success- 
fully accomplished. The lid of the chest was closed, and it 
was conveyed on board of the boat, while we waved our pikes, 
fired the rocket, the blue-light, and the " magic-circle," and 
rushed on board the boat, which pulled away with all speed 
round the point, where we stopped to reconnoitre. The circle 
and blue-light blazed away, casting an unearthly glare on the 
dark green foliage of the forest, and flickering over the placid 
waters of the lagoon. The savages uttered a wild yell of dis- 
may, that rang through the still forest, while they retreated 
hastily towards the village. We afterward understood that 
they supposed we had gone up to visit our homes in the moon ; 
and that we had ascended in fire drawn down from that lu- 
minary. 

The next day the savages came off to the vessel, full of faith 
in the Great Spirit and his medicines ; and they wore, sus- 
pended to their breasts, bits of the paper that had composed the 
rocket and blue-light, which they regarded with superstitious 
reverence as wonderful talismans. W had a small quan- 
tity of domestic salve, that much resembled bazilicon. This 
salve he freely and successfully applied in all cases of cuts, 
wounds, or bruises ; and the healing virtues of these plasters 
became so celebrated among these simple-hearted natives, that 
they soon became an article of traffic with them, as each pa- 
tient could obtain whatever price he chose to demand for the 
smallest piece, or even shred, of one of these plasters, which 
were used as amulets, and were suspended to the necks of the 
purchasers, as a sovereign antidote against every impending 
evil, physical or moral, that seemed to threaten them. Our 
prescriptions were always harmless, and what they lacked in 
efficacy was amply supplied by the unwavering faith of the 
patient. To our agreeable surprise, we found, on a subsequent 
visit to this place, that our patients had all recovered, and that 
even the old lady was in a promising state of convalescence. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 127 

W was known to the natives by the name of the Great 

Medicine Edward, and I was known as the Medicine Thomas. 
These kind people could not do too many favours for us, and 
we were welcomed and entertained in every wigwam. In fact, 
there was a good chance for us to settle down here for life, as 
men of "royal blood." Polygamy being the fashion of the 
country, the celebrated brave, Katore, tendered me his three 
daughters for wives. Of course the offer was respectfully de- 
clined. 

Embarking in the boat, we proceeded to examine a river, 
the mouth of which we had discovered on the shores of Bide- 
ra, emptying into the lagoon directly opposite Leo Island. 
Following up its channel, we found it to extend in a S.S.W. 
direction. It was about a quarter of a mile wide. The water 
was brackish, and averaged six feet deep. On its eastern 
bank was a small purling stream of pure fresh water, that 
emptied into it near its mouth. The banks in some places 
sloped gradually to the water, and in others were quite pre- 
cipitous. Grass openings were scattered here and there ; but 
most of the country was thickly wooded with lofty trees of va- 
rious kinds, while in some places the mangrove threw its long 
arms far out into the water. Having advanced five miles, we 
approached a projecting wooded point, when a sailor cried, 
" Hist ! hist ! didn't you hear that wild beast growl !" 

" Ay !" replied every one, as we directed the boat more to- 
wards the centre of the stream, fearing an ambush, or that a 
lion or tiger might spring upon us from his covert. From the 
thicket suddenly rushed five wild hogs, who plunged into the 
river and swam for the opposite shore. A large and furious 
boar, with huge projecting tusks, led the van. The captain 
levelled his rifle at him and fired. He threw his head into the 
air, turned short round, eyed us with his fiery-red eyes, gave 
a frightful snarl, gnashed his teeth in defiance, shook his head 
furiously at us, and then struck with all speed for the shore, 
followed by all his family, who landed upon the beach and 
disappeared in the forest. 

The country appeared to be uninhabited ; nothing broke the 
stillness save the noise of our oars. Farther up the river we 
discovered a wigwam, beautifully nestled among fan-palms 
and cocoanut-trees, upon a sloping terrepleim Upon landing 



128 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

we found it deserted, and birds had built their nests inside and 
beneath the shelter of its eaves. We had had a long journey, 
and felt very hungry, so we halted to rest and dine. 

We tried to climb the cocoanut-trees, but found it a hard 
task for inexperienced hands. I got half way up one, but was 
obliged to come down again. Two of the sailors, more skilled 
than the others, succeeded in mounting to the top of two trees, 
and threw down enough nuts for all hands. 

We lounged in the shade, and dined with a keen appetite. 
A flock of paraquets screeched overhead, and I was delighted 
with the original freshness and natural beauty of the scene 
around. 

We embarked, intending to return, but I persuaded the cap- 
tain to go up the river and explore it a little farther. He did 
so, and we came to a spot where it swelled out into a little 
lake of surpassing beauty. Here we put about. I felt a great 
desire to explore this river, and would willingly have pulled an 
oar as long as any one. The captain objected, because we 
had not come prepared for camping, and it was not prudent to 
go farther at present. It was some time after nightfall when 
we pulled alongside of the vessel. 

I have named the river "Allison River," after my esteemed 
friend, Joseph Allison, of Halifax, Nova Scotia, a merchant of 
well-known worth and integrity. 

The captain now determined to make a minute exploration 
of the country; for, like all of us, he had become charmed 
with it, and seemed strongly impressed with the idea that he 
would one day settle for life in some part of Tropical Aus- 
tralasia. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

We had four boats, and they were now all launched. Three 
of them were fitted for explorations and survey. They were 
well provided with everything that might be required, such as 
water-tight lockers, for trading-cargo and provisions ; painted 
canvass screens, for the protection of the arms and ammuni- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 129 

tions of the crew ; water-kegs, awnings, &c. The long-boat 
was quite a large craft, of beautiful proportions, schooner-rig- 
ged, and painted black, with a white streak and two great 
white stars on her tapering bows. Upon her bow was mount- 
ed a swivel, and on her stern a blunderbuss, with a big muzzle. 
The cutter was a trim craft, sloop-rigged. The whale-boat 
was also sloop-rigged, and very fleet. These three boats com- 
posed what we called our " exploring squadron." 

The first was named the Invincible, and was the " flag-ship ;" 
she was commanded by the captain in person, and was pro- 
vided with a tinder-box, a signal-lantern, a compass, mathe- 
matical implements, a French horn, a telescope, &c. The 
second was named the Tempest ; and the third, the Sylph. 

The outfit of the squadron was now completed, and the ves- 
sels composing it towed to our lower studding-sail booms, 
which were guyed out. Everything on board the vessel was 
made as secure as possible, so as to guard against any attack 
or surprise from the savages, during the absence of the greater 
part of the crew on the projected exploration. She was moor- 
ed stem and stern, secure from all winds and sea, and the 
boarding-netting and awnings were triced up fore and aft, so 
that a few men could defend her against thousands of savages 
with their rude implements of warfare. Indeed, she was a 
kind of floating fort, and the captain directed the officer in 
charge not to admit more than six savages on board at any 
time during his absence. 

The crew were all mustered and stationed. At midnight I 
was aroused by the striking of the bell, followed by the loud 
cry of the watch, " Explorers away ! Man the squadron !" I 
turned out, seized my arms and accoutrements, and jumped 
into the Invincible, of which I w r as coxswain. The captain sat 
beside me, and, the squadron being manned, we shoved off and 
set sail, steering west with a brisk breeze and a signal-lantern 
at the stern, which served as a guide to the Tempest and 
Sylph, who followed in our wake. It was as dark as Erebus. 
We sailed along the islands and reefs which lay off the coast. 
The captain seized the French horn and sent forth a signal, 
which was answered by the squadron with a notable blast 
from tin horns. They received in reply the shrill sound of a 
boatswain's whistle, blown by Benton, who commanded the 



130 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Tempest ; and the sounds were prolonged and echoed along 

by W , or the Medicine Edward, who commanded the 

Sylph. These noises echoed strangely and startlingly over 
the neighbouring island, but roused no reply, except from a 
couple of waking owls. Onward we sped, edging in towards 
the mainland, passing several small islands and coral reefs. 

At daybreak we were coasting the beach of Bidera, and dis- 
covered a stream of fresh water, which babbled over a rocky 
cliff and emptied into the lagoon. We stopped only to fill our 
kegs. Suddenly we opened a cove, on the shore of which was 
a native village. We landed and invested it, but the natives 
got the start of us, and, rising from their beds, fled in all direc- 
tions, men, women, and children. We inspected the houses ; 
viewed the beauties of the surrounding rural scenery ; cast our 
eyes up wistfully at the clusters of yellow bananas, green 
cocoanuts, and bread-fruit that, hung overhead ; suspended 
some trinkets in front of the chief's house, and then embarked 
again, pursuing our course westward. 

The scenery on Bidera was most magnificent, composed of 
lovely hills and dales, prairies and woodlands, while in the 
distance rose elevated mountains. Little sequestered coves, 
with grassy and wooded shores, and pure white sand-beaches, 
opened to view as we sailed along. 

We passed by several uninhabited islands, which were cov- 
ered with forests, on one of which we stopped to dine. At 2 
P.M. we were opposite an island, the shore of which was 
lined with groves of cocoanut-trees, beneath whose shade was 
a village, for which we directed our course. 

A host of savages were drawn up in line along the beach, 
all armed with spears and war-clubs, with which they wildly 
threatened us, uttering a yell and sending forth the loud sound 
of the war-conch and tum-tums. While this was taking place, 
we saw with the telescope that the women and children were 
deserting the island, by embarking in canoes at its farther end, 
and paddling for Bidera. At first we thought of going in pur- 
suit of them, and the idea pleased our crew extremely. The 
captain determined, however, to silence the war-yell and 
conches ; so we bore down for the midst of the savages, and 
when within pistol-shot, the captain cried, " Three cheers, my 
boys !" The cheers were given, and were followed by blasts 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 131 

from the French horn, the tin horns, and boatswain's whistle, 
and the roll upon our drum. This clamorous " war-yell" was 
more than the savages could understand, and they scampered 
away into the forest, pellmell, while we landed and took pos- 
session of the village, by right of conquest. 

We were busy examining the houses, when we heard the 
tumultuous sound of a multitude of native voices ringing 
through the forest. 

" To arms ! to arms !" shouted the pickets. 

We rushed to the beach and formed in line in front of the 
squadron. A procession of savages, marching two by two, in 
slow and solemn tread, advanced along the beach. The van 
was led by four athletic men, marching Indian file, carrying a 
hog, that was secured upon a pole that rested upon their shoul- 
ders. The company marked time to a peculiar whizzing song, 
which they chanted, accompanied by the slow tap of the tum- 
tum. The van waved green branches in token of friendship. 
We lay down our arms and did the same, motioning them to 
come on. The captain ordered us to put on as respectful faces 
as possible, and not to suffer a smile to interrupt the solemnity 
of the scene. The old salts screwed and twisted their quids 
of tobacco around in their mouths, until they rested in a par- 
ticular spot, that gave their countenances quite a " comical, 
solemn" phiz, which the natives, no doubt, construed into the 
height of reverence and sanctity, such as was only to be found 
among spirits of the " sun and moon." 

The captain stood ready to receive his " children" as be- 
came the dignified powers he knew they attributed to him. 
When within fifty feet of us, the procession halted and the 
chant ceased. 

A noted brave, named Tantangeely, now left the rank and 
advanced boldly to meet the captain. His body was painted 
in red stripes, not unlike a barber's-pole, and upon his head 
and shoulders fluttered the white plumage of the cockatoo. 
In his right hand he held extended a carbo-guurd* and in his 

* A handsomely-carved gourd, one foot or more long, with a hole in one 
end, and filled with coral or shell lime, into which is thrust a stick, by means 
of which it is drawn out to be chewed with the astringent areca-nut, which 
resembles the nutmeg in appearance, and with the fragrant and pleasant 
betle-leaf. These three articles, when chewed together, colour the saliva 



132 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTUHES 

left a network bag of fine texture. The keen eyes of the 
chieftain now rested upon those of the captain, and they halt- 
ed and stood face to face. 

"Par-an-nee part-see" (eat betle), said the savage. 

" Lo py-tar" (very good), answered the captain, taking the 
carbo-gourd and bag, from which he took a chew of betle, and 
returned them to the savage, who now handed the captain a 
large piece of Venitian red, saying, " Mon-wee elow-u-nee." 

The captain painted his face and breast in stripes, and hand- 
ed the Venitian red for us to do likewise. At this the savages 
uttered a wild shout of joy ; to which we replied, looking like 
veteran savages with our painted faces and bodies. A perpet- 
ual treaty of peace and commerce was now ratified. 

Tantangeely wheeled round, and, placing himself in front 
of the savages who carried the hog, waved his carbo-gourd, and 
shouting, ' : Tal-la-lo\ve !" stalked majestically away towards 
the squadron, in solemn and slow tread, followed by the four 
savages and hog, while the main body chanted the song of 
peace and the hog squealed in chorus, as he was safely depos- 
ited on board of the Invincible, as an offering to the " deity." 
He was a fine, fat porker, and, like his owners, was painted in 
red stripes. One of the sailors from "down East" declared 
that in Massachusetts he would have passed for a " striped 
pig." 

Our intercourse with the natives now became quite intimate, 
and we entered into a brisk trade, after which the captain made 
the chiefs many presents, and they promised to collect all the 
articles that he required, and keep them safe for him until his 
return. As we embarked they presented us with delicious 
fruit. We bade them farewell and set sail, amid a joyful shout, 
which was heartily returned. 

It was late in the afternoon when, after sailing along the 
shores of a pretty little uninhabited island, we entered a cove, 
at the foot of which were a few scattering cocoa-trees. We 
prepared to encamp upon the beach for the night. The squa- 
dron was moored and everything required landed. W T e pitched 
a rude tent, killed our hog, prepared our homely but most wel- 
come supper, and, after eating it with greedy appetites, station- 
red as blood. It is considered a very friendly sign to present the carbo-gourd 
and exchange a chew of betle. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 133 

ed the pickets and rolled ourselves in our blankets upon the 
beach beneath the shelter of the tent, which we only needed 
as a protection from dew or rain. 

At the dawn of day we struck the tent, and set sail in the 
squadron. Near meridian we sighted a long island, and saw 
a large village, which, as usual, was imbovvered amid fruit- 
bearing trees. As we approached, some of the natives fled ; 
but an aged chief, named Oruto-roto, stood his ground upon 
the beach, backed by a party of warriors or braves of note, 
who made friendly signs and invited us to land. 

We lay to with the squadron near the shore, and sent the 

Sylph to open a trade with the savages. W and two of 

his crew walked up the beach to meet Oruto-roto and ex- 
change betle. The savages, finding that we were friendly, be- 
gan to flock down upon the beach in great numbers, and a trade 

was immediately opened. W displayed all his tempting 

and glittering trinkets, and made the chiefs presents. 

While this was going on, a dense mob of savages had sur- 
rounded the Sylph, as she lay with her bow upon the beach. 
They waded into the water around her, admiring her graceful 
form and wonderful construction. They felt her sides and 
bottom, and caressed the crew. The captain now hoisted his 
flag on board the Invincible, which was a signal for the Sylph 
to join the squadron. This proved to be a difficult matter, for 

W was completely cut off from her by the dense mob of 

savages, through whom he wormed his way with great tact and 
consummate bravery, for their keen and avaricious eyes had 
already laid claim to the tempting and valuable trinkets, which 
they began to think of appropriating to themselves, now that 
they saw them within their grasp. At length he regained the 
boat, but the savages clung to the gunwales with so much te- 
nacity, that it was almost impossible to shove her off amid the 
mob. With bold looks and loud threats, he succeeded in get- 
ting her afloat and clear of the host. Now he discovered that 
the rudder had been stolen, and accused the savages of the 
theft. They denied it, and replied with angry and abusive lan- 
guage.* 

* They afterward confessed their astonishment at seeing the boat move 
without a rudder, in which they had supposed was concealed some strange 
and magical power, of which, if we were deprived, we should become as im- 

M 



134 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

The captain saw with his telescope all that was going on, 
and sailed down to the assistance of the Sylph, bringing the 
broadside of the squadron to bear upon the savages, while 
he rose and delivered a loud and energetic harangue to the 
multitude that were upon the beach and wading in the water. 
He told them, W interpreting his speech, that if the rud- 
der was not instantly restored, the Great Spirit would raise a 
tempest of thunder and lightning that would kill their people, 
especially the guilty ones, destroy their houses, and sink the 
island ! 

We immediately prepared to execute this threat, by loading 
the swivel with bar-shot and the blunderbusses with grape, 
while each man reprimed his musket. 

"Ready!" cried the captain. "Aim!" 

The crew all stood with their muskets levelled at the sava- 
ges, among whom they were about to fire. By this time the 
warriors were armed with spears and shields ; but the sight of 
our warlike front, ignorant as they were of our power and in- 
tention, cooled their bravery and threw them into confusion. 
At this critical juncture, Oruto-roto advanced, making friendly 
signs. When at the water's edge he shouted, " Great Spirit, 
don't sink the island ; the rudder has been found adrift by my 
people, who merely picked it up to save it !" 

A savage now appeared with the rudder in his hand, and, 
rushing into the water, he swam off and presented it to the 
captain, who held it on high over his head in full view of the 
host, who shouted and danced for joy, and threw their spears 
away, while we lay down our arms. A treaty of peace and 
commerce was immediately ratified, in presence of the as- 
sembled chiefs and populace. A peace-offering, consisting 
of three fine hogs and plenty of fruit, was presented to the 
" Great Spirit," who received them most graciously, together 
with fragrant green branches, which served the purpose of 
"olive branches." 

Matters being thus amicably settled, a brisk trade was nat- 
urally entered into and sustained without farther misunder- 
standing. The natives made the captain the usual promises, 

becile as themselves. Under this conviction they had stolen the rudder, 
thinking that if the trade-boat was in their power, all the merchandise would 
be theirs free of cost. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 135 

and, bidding them farewell, we embarked and set sail. We 
named this, from our adventure upon it, Rudder Island. 

Making the best of our way for the amphitheatral lands of 
Bid era, we discovered a bay, which we entered, and found a 
fresh-water river emptying into it. At the mouth of the latter 
we found a bed of fine large oysters, a considerable quantity 
of which we collected, and then set sail up the river. 

The banks were sloping, and covered with trees and shrubs, 
most of which were entirely new to us, and some, no doubt, 
were valuable as dyewoods and for the production of gums. 
We also collected several new specimens of flowers. We pitch- 
ed our tent upon a rocky bluff, and enjoyed a most delightful 
and invigorating tropical bath, by wading into the pure stream 
upon its pebbly bed. In front of the tent we built a large fire, 
and feasted quite sumptuously upon roasted oysters. As the 
mantle of night shrouded us, we gathered reclining round the 
fire, for, although this was a climate of perpetual summer, the 
night dews were heavy and chilling. The light of the fire 
flickered over the murmuring waters of the river, and in the 
distance to the south could be discerned the blue outline of a 
lofty range of mountains. We had assembled for a grand 
" smoking council," every man with his pipe in his mouth. 
The captain sat at the head of the circle, upon a water-keg, 
with a long pipe, puffing away and observing nothing ; evident- 
ly lost in a revery, with his eyes cast upon the blazing fire. 

" We're snugly moored for all night if the fire don't bring 
savages or wild beasts upon us I" said one of the croakers. 

" You bloody owl, we ain't afeard o' them if they do come," 
said another ; and then followed the remarks of different mem- 
bers composing the " council." 

" It's a pity that so many fine girls at home should be pre- 
vented from marrying, for fear of being forced to go to the 
poorhouse for a subsistence, and that men should quarrel for 
a mean strip of poor land, when all this fine country lies in a 
state of nature !" said the captain, as he at last broke silence. 
The crew looked at him eagerly, and listened for the proposi- 
tion which was to come. "My boys," said he, "if I should 
return here to plant a colony of respectable families, will you 
follow me V 

" Ay ! ay !" was the general reply, and the captain again 
sank into his revery. 



136 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

" I say, Ned, we sha'n't have to hunt up a ship or boarding- 
house again, if we settle here." 

" You're right ; each man'll have a house and plantation of 
his own." 

The pipes were smoked out, the sentinels stationed, and we 
all retired within the tent to repose. 

During the night I was roused to relieve the sentinel ; and, 
patrolling the rounds, stretching and gaping, I heard a rustling 
in the thicket, and saw something move. This awoke me 
most effectually, and, levelling my rifle, I was about to fire, 
when my eyes opened wide enough to see that I was aiming 
at a dry fan-palm leaf that rustled against the rough bark of a 
tree. I stirred up the fire, piled on the wood, and tramped up 
and down, serenaded by tree-toads and catydids. 

At daybreak all hands turned out to shoot at a flock of pi- 
geons that had lit upon the neighbouring trees. The hunters 
came in loaded with the birds, which were forthwith cooked, 
and we had served up for breakfast "pigeon pie" and "Scotch 
coffee."* 

The Bidera pigeon resembles, in form, our domestic bird of 
the same name, except that it is larger. In colour it is widely 
different. Its bill is black, and the root js covered with flesh 
similar to that of the carrier. Its body is of a beautiful bufT or 
brown colour, and a white ruff encircles its neck. We struck 
the tent, and embarked in the squadron on our return to the 
vessel. We stopped at several places to trade with the na- 
tives, and met with various success. At night we camped on 
a rocky islet near the coast of Bidera. 

The next day we explored several coral reefs and sand- 
spits, and, a rain squall passing over us, we went into the wa- 
ter to enjoy a bath and keep from " getting wet" from the rain. 
Late at night we arrived safe on board the vessel and turned 
in for a "snooze." 

The next day we embarked in the squadron and sailed to the 
eastward. We discovered a handsome little bay, with a re- 
markably high rocky islet in its centre, and afterward coasted 
round a point of land, which we subsequently named Sam- 
barlo Point, after a noted chief of that name, who resided in 

* Scotch coffee is made of burned ship-bread boiled in water, and sweet- 
ened with molasses. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 137 

the neighbouring village of Woge-Woge. A canoe, filled 
with savages, paddled alongshore, and we gave chase. They 
abandoned the canoe upon the beach and fled into the thicket, 
whence they held a pow-wow with us, quite concealed from 
our view, except now and then, as we caught a glimpse of a 
head or leg through an opening. We hailed them in the Bi- 
dera tongue, and invited them to come and receive the pres- 
ents we had brought them. They answered, " No ! you only 
want to kill and eat us." We used all our logic in vain to con- 
vince them that we were not " cannibals !" We told them that 
we came to trade, and wanted to buy tortoise-shell and pearls 
to take home, to make armlets and bangles for our godeys and 
eno-parokers (wives and children). They now began to under- 
stand a little, although our former assertions had been receiv- 
ed with evident incredulity. 

They replied that they would sell us plenty of the articles 
named, provided we would not come back again to frighten 
them, and that all they prayed for was our absence. They 
added, that if we would depart, they would place some shell 
upon an old prostrate tree, that lay partly upon the land and 
partly in the water. 

Upon hearing this, we placed some iron-hoop and beads 
upon the fallen tree, and then withdrew some distance. The 
savages ventured from their covert, and. taking the trinkets, 
left in their place four large pieces of the hawk's-bill tortoise- 
shell, which we returned and took, while the savages again 
fled into the thicket. We hallooed and thanked them for their 
kindness, and hoped that they might one day see our godeys 
with combs made out of the shell sticking in their hair. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Promising to call and see our timid customers again, we sail- 
ed away for a little wooded island two miles distant to sea- 
ward. Upon landing, we saw two canoes, filled with savages, 
creeping alongshore on a fishing excursion. They attempted 
to run away, but we pursued them hotly, and completely sur- 

M2 



138 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

rounded them, to their terror and dismay. They were our 
prisoners, and expected that we would roast and eat them, as 
they do with their prisoners ; not for food, but to fulfil a su- 
perstitious rite, by which the souls of their enemies are con- 
demned to perpetual torment in the future world. 

Instead of roasting their bodies, we told them that we were 
their friends, and made them many presents. They expressed 
their joy by singing a peculiar ditty, and dancing wildly upon 
the beach, striking their hands upon their thighs. They pre- 
sented us some fine fish, and the captain said he would show 
them how he could kill, with his spear, a large bird that perch- 
ed upon a neighbouring tree. The savages stood in mute 
wonder, eyeing the bird, while the captain levelled his musket 
and fired. The bird fell ; the savages rushed, terrified, into the 
water, and swam with all speed for Woge-Woge. We shouted 
for them to come back, but the more we called the faster they 
swam, and every time we hallooed loudly, they dove under wa- 
ter like so many wild ducks, to escape the thunder and light- 
ning of the Great Spirit. We watched^them with the telescope, 
and saw them land safely at Woge-W r oge, which was more 
than two miles distant. A host of savages collected around 
them, and they seemed, by their gestures, to be relating some 
wonderful tale. In their terror, they had abandoned their ca- 
noes, trinkets, and all. We took the canoes in tow of the In- 
vincible, and sailed for Woge-W T oge, where we landed. The 
savages deserted the village at our approach, and fled with 
precipitation. We hauled the canoes safely upon the beach, 
and, depositing presents in them, set sail away. 

The next day we explored several little uninhabited islands 
and some coral reefs, and landed at a small village upon the 
main. The inhabitants fled, as usual. We found some fine 
groves of cocoanut, bread-fruit, banana, plantain, and orange 
trees, and scattered about were plantations or patches of golo- 
po, yams, and sweet potatoes. Domestic fowls strutted about . 
In the afternoon we returned to the vessel. We named the 
harbour where our brig was moored the Bay of Shoals. 

The next day we visited Peo Leo and his people. Our pa- 
tients were getting on well, and, bidding them farewell, we re- 
turned on board the vessel, unmoored, and set sail, steering to 
the eastward, and thridding the dangerous reefs along the 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 139 

coast. I was ordered ahead in the Invincible to sound the dan- 
gerous and unknown passage, while the Margaret Oakley fol- 
lowed, guided by signals. 

Late in the afternoon we discovered a deep bay in the main- 
land. We entered it and careered along under full sail, until 
near its foot, when we hauled our wind to the eastward, and, 
with a close shave, sped past a wooded promontory and shot 
into a romantic little circular cove, where we clewed up and 
clewed down, and rang the bunting cry. When the headway 
had ceased and the vessel lay motionless close upon the for- 
est, we dropped anchor in thirteen fathoms' water. The cove 
was completely landlocked, and we could defy all winds. The 
wooded slopes and projecting promontories were reflected 
upon the mirror-like bosom of the water, in striking contrast 
with the dark hull and tapering spars of our clipper craft. A 
pure white sand-beach formed the immediate shore, and pre- 
sented a remarkable feature, when contrasted with the luxuri- 
ous and dark-green foliage with which it was fringed. Nu- 
merous birds, of beautiful plumage and of song, carolled their 
vesper hymns as they flew from tree to tree, presenting to- 
gether a most rural and romantic scene. 

I have coasted the shores of both Americas, and travelled 
much inland, but never have I witnessed such a lovely scene 
as this. 

The country round about seemed uninhabited ; the anchor- 
watch was set, and we retired to our hammocks. 

The next morning we were up and away in the squadron, 
exploring the land. We discovered a large creek of fresh 
water, up which we sailed some distance, and came to a go- 
lopo plantation, divided into small compartments by bamboo 
fences. Brushing a jungle with our spanker-boom, we all 
cried simultaneously, " A wild beast !" and cocked our rifles, 
as we heard a rustling among the dry leaves, and saw a large 
and most singular-looking animal running on all fours towards 
us ! Suddenly the creature halted, and, rising up to the height 
of near six feet, stood upon his hind legs ! Several animals of 
similar appearance now joined him, and gazed at us in aston- 
ishment, while at the same time they all held green branches 
in their " fore paws," and waved them in token of friendship. 
They wore armlets, and necklaces of hogs' teeth ! 



140 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Notwithstanding the " questionable shape" in which they 
had appeared, they were human beings, of fine form and fea- 
ture, and of a lighter colour than any we had before seen upon 
Bidera. We made friendly signs and showed them beautiful 
trinkets, at the sight of which they seemed greatly delighted ; 
but when we landed to approach them, they fled with precipi- 
tation, and disappeared in the gloom of the jungle. Finding it 
impossible to open any communication with them, we return- 
ed to the cove and continued our exploration of its shore. We 
soon discovered a wonderful natural curiosity. It was a tree ; 
the trunk was twenty feet in diameter, and from it all around, 
at regular intervals, projected board-like partitions, each of 
which formed as many cavities, which would have made good 
dwellings if closed up. The tree was not lofty, but, on the 
contrary, quite squat, and sent out numerous arms, from which 
shot pendent shoots, that took root in the ground, and thus 
spread over and covered a vast space. 

It was evidently an old settler ; of what species we knew 
not, but supposed it to belong to that of the Banian. The sail- 
ors called it the "little tree's grand-daddy." 

The natives that we had seen seemed to be complete lands- 
men ; in fact, it was doubtful whether they knew the use of a 
canoe, for we saw none. 

The captain and all hands had fallen in love with this beau- 
tiful cove, and the next day we landed, well provided with 
sharp axes to cut wood and clear a spot to make a garden, and 
thus form the germe of a colony. 

We threw off our jackets with right good-will, and went to 
work in earnest. The sound of our blows rang through the 
peaceful forests and rolled up the hill-slopes, echoing and re- 
echoing over the cove. Such havoc and tumult had never 
been witnessed here before, and all natives, no doubt, fled, ter- 
rified, out of sight and hearing. The trees were of species un- 
known, and the wood of beautiful colour and texture. One 
species resembled, and was even more beautiful than, rose- 
wood. The wild nutmeg-tree grew here in abundance. 

W and myself strolled into the forest, and discovered a 

gum that resembled frankincense. The crew worked smartly, 
but it was evident that they hacked and chopped the trees 
without any system. One tree fell the " wrong way," and a 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 141 

limb knocked down a sailor. Another stood tottering, appa- 
rently undecided which way to fall. "Stand from under!" 
cried Ned Harris, as he ran up and gave it a powerful shove. 

Old Jack and the Doctor (the black cook) were experienced 
"wood-choppers." The former had been brought up on a 
farm in Vermont, and the latter was a runaway slave from 
the pine forests of Virginia. It was excellent amusement to 
witness the crew taking lessons of these two worthies in the 
science of " wood-chopping." 

" We'll give up follerin' the sea and turn farmers," said one. 

" Ay," said Old Jack, who still had a hankering after his 
" old trade," " a farmer's life is the most independent, if he 
hasn't any rent to pay ; he ain't turned out o' a warm berth to 
reef topsails in snow and sleet, and fall overboard with frozen 
fingers." 

" What you 'bout dere V said the Doctor to a " green one :" 
"dat tree'll smash you if you don't give him de science lick!" 

The next day we took in a full supply of wood and water of 
the best quality. The water we obtained from the creek. In 
the morning we landed with spades, shovels, hoes, and seeds 
of various kinds, and made a garden around the "little tree's 
grand-daddy." Among the seeds planted were Indian corn, 
wheat, rice, coffee, cotton, cultivated nutmeg, cherry, peach, 
pumpkin, melon, radish, turnip, cabbage, &c. Having com- 
pleted the garden, we returned to the vessel, and a heavy 
shower of rain passing over, we stopped up the scuppers and 
flooded the decks. Each man deposited his dirty clothing in a 
heap on deck, and then adding the clothing from his body, he 
jumped and stamped upon them like an Irish washerwoman, 
at the same time enjoying a pleasant natural shower-bath. 

I name this cove Fairy Cove ; and the large bay upon which 
it is situated, Webster Bay, in honour of Daniel Webster. 

When we entered Webster Bay, we had seen in the dis- 
tance a dense cloud of smoke rising into the heavens from the 
shore of Bidera, to the eastward, and, as a towering mountain 
lay in that direction, we supposed that its summit was a fla- 
ming volcano. Some how or other, the crew became possessed 
of the idea that valuable gold-mines remained to be discovered 
by us in that direction, and that we were there to make our 
" eternal fortunes." 



142 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

The captain, too, had given us hopes of this sort, by express- 
ing his determination to explore that region in quest of gold- 
dust, and diamonds, and other precious commodities. The 
next day we weighed anchor and sailed out of Fairy Cove, 
and coasted the eastern shore of Webster Bay. At midnight 
we were opposite a peninsula, but little elevated above the sea, 
and situated partly between two lofty mountain peaks, from 
one of which, in the distance, we had supposed issued the fire 
and smoke. But now we saw our deception. The peninsula 
was one vast basin or volcanic crater, covered with flaming 
fire, which extended quite into the valley between the base of 
the lofty peaks. The flames shot about and traversed the im- 
mense crater with fearful and devouring force. From the 
mast-head I looked down upon the fiery basin, and saw it filled 
with red-hot and liquid lava, that had burst the brink of the 
crater, and poured through a chasm, like molten lead, hissing 
and roaring into the sea. At regular intervals, in different 
parts of the crater, shot up sheets of flame, in violent jets, 
more than one hundred feet into the air, accompanied by a 
dreadful rumbling or bellowing, that seemed to come from the 
very bowels of the earth and sea, while at the same time red- 
hot stones and immense boulders were cast furiously hun- 
dreds of feet into the air, and scattered over the crater. A 
dense column of smoke and cinders rose up to the very sky, 
and was carried away by a current of wind, blowing in a con- 
trary direction from the one that we experienced. The bright 
red hue of the flames was reflected on all surrounding objects. 
The dancing sea seemed like liquid fire, and the spars and rig- 
ging of the vessel looked as if they were in a blaze, while the 
increased heat was quite perceptible. The scene was one of 
awful grandeur and sublimity. We named the peninsula after 
our captain, " Morrell's Peninsula," and the volcano upon it 
will be known by the same name. 

We undertook to navigate through the reefs and sand-spits 
during the night, lighted by the volcano. I was ahead in the 
Invincible, sounding and marking the track, when suddenly 
white breakers hove in sight, dead ahead, upon a coral patch 
of small extent. Down came the Margaret Oakley under a 
press of canvass. I signalized, but it was not noticed until 1 
discharged the swivel ; the vessel just saved her ribs from a 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 143 

grinding. Next we groped our way through a cluster of islets, 
and at daybreak hauled our wind to the S.S.W., around the 
east side of Morrell's Peninsula, and steered for the foot of a 
very large bay. The land rose gradually on each side, until 
it assumed the form of elevated mountains, with beautiful in- 
tervening valleys, covered with forests. Near the foot of the 
great bay, on its east side, we anchored, close to the land, in 
a cove, the mouth of which was protected by two dangerous 
coral reefs. To the great bay I give the native name Barre- 
tuno Bay. On the west side of the bay there appeared several 
boiling springs, that sent up clouds of steam into the air. Not 
a native or habitation of any kind could be seen. The whole 
country seemed to be in a primitive state of nature. 

The next day we embarked in the squadron to explore the 
cove, and, entering the mouth of a creek, passed a fishing-hut, 
and saw a party of savages standing upon the bank. They 
waved green branches in token of friendship, and came sing- 
ing and dancing down upon the beach, headed by a noble war- 
rior of commanding appearance, whose name was Woner- 
Woner; he wore round his waist a wampum belt of the claws 
and beaks of birds, which rattled like castanets as he stalked 
along. He carried a huge spear in his hand, the shaft of 
which was ornamented with the gay plumage of the paradise 
bird. We landed ; the captain met the warrior face to face, 
and the two exchanged spears, and ratified a treaty of peace 
and commerce. These natives resided upon the mountains in 
the interior, and had only come down here on a hunting and 
fishing excursion. They had no canoes in the cove, and only 
floated about the creek upon logs and bamboos. They were a 
people similar in colour and appearance to those we had seen 
at Fairy Cove, and we became very intimate with them. 
They were a stout, well-proportioned, healthy-looking people, 
with muscular and well-rounded limbs. 

We made them many presents, and they presented us two 
fine hogs, with shell necklaces upon their necks. They were 
well pleased with the presents we made them, and invited us 
to come and see them at their village upon the mountain, at 
the same time showing us the path by which we could reach 
it. They were going home now to carry the news of our ar- 
rival, and we promised to call and see them. I presented 



144 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Woner-Woner a stout knife, one of Rodgers's best ; he was so 
much pleased with it that he dragged me gently towards the 
path, with the wampum grating against my body, and wanted 
me to go with him forthwith. The captain objected, and so 
we bade the natives farewell. The next day we explored and 
surveyed the reefs at the mouth of the cove, and sailed to the 
eastward, coasting along the shores of Barretuno Bay. We 
espied one canoe, filled with savages, who paddled away, while 
we gave chase, and plied our oars with vigour. They dodged 
us, from promontory to promontory, most provokingly, for 
some time. At length the wind freshened, and we walked up 
to them so fast that, when they found themselves nearly run 
down, they sought refuge in a river. The Invincible grounded 
upon a sand-bar at the mouth, but the Tempest and Sylph con- 
tinued the pursuit. The savages abandoned their canoe upon 
the beach, and, throwing away their paddles, scampered in dis- 
may into the forest. We camped for the night upon an unin- 
habited islet near the mouth of the river, and drew our seine by 
torchlight, in imitation of the savages, and were very success- 
ful ; for we caught an abundance of fine fish, which were va- 
riegated with all the colours of the rainbow. 

Next day we explored and surveyed more of the coast, and, 
without seeing a single native, returned to the vessel. The 
next day we landed at the mouth of the creek which emptied 
into the cove we had explored, prepared for an excursion into 
the interior of Bidera. The squadron returned to the vessel 
in charge of the "garrison." Headed by the captain, we 
marched along, like a string of tatterdemalion bandits, pursu- 
ing the path pointed out by Woner-Woner. At first the sur- 
face was gently rolling, the soil rich, and covered with a state- 
ly forest of beautiful trees, of various species, free from under- 
wood. At the termination of this tract, we came to a beetling 
hillock and a cross path, that seemed to have been frequently 
travelled ; but, as it led in a different direction from that in 
which we were going, we kept directly forward, and entered 
a gloomy ravine, leading up the hill. Here the forest was 
filled with underwood and creeping vines, the great naked 
stems of which extended up to the treetops, intwining and 
matting them together into one dense canopy, that excluded 
the rays of the sun and cast over everything a gloomy shade, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 145 

which was rendered still more dismal hy the screeching of 
birds or beasts, and the drumming of some woodpecker upon 
a hollow tree, which was magnified by our fears into the sound 
of a tum-tum. 

" A spear ! Savages in ambush !" shouted one of the com- 
pany. 

This cry brought us all to a dead stand ; every man cocked 
his musket or drew his cutlass, and tremblingly awaited the 
onset which we thought sure to come. 

''Stand your ground like men!" shouted the captain, with 
desperate bravery. All remained as silent as the grave. 

The cause of our alarm was soon discovered. A sailor had 
jarred the body of a vine, and a decayed pendent shoot had fall- 
en and stuck into the ground near his body. In the dismal 
gloom he had imagined it a spear thrown by savages. 

We pursued our course, laughing heartily at our terror of 
the imagined savages in ambush ! and the adventure became a 
standing joke for many days afte%and the sailor who made the 
outcry was nicknamed " Ambuscade." 

Having gained the summit of the hill, we found the forest 
more open, and halted for a few moments to survey the broad 
waters of the BideraSea, which was bounded only by the hori- 
zon. Ascending another hill, we emerged from the forest into 
a beautiful, undulating prairie, covered with a grassy carpet of 
green, and bounded in the distance by a wooded mountain 
range. Clumps of beautiful trees were scattered about upon 
the grassy knolls, and the scene was most cheering when con- 
trasted with the frightful, gnarled, and " ambuscade" jungle 
through which we had passed. Trails led round the timber, 
but we struck straight across the prairie. The trail soon be- 
came lost amid the grass, and we steered by compass. En- 
tering a chasm, we aroused a herd of animals that much re- 
sembled deer; they wheeled round, threw their tails into the 
air, and bounded, terrified, out of sight. In a clump of wood- 
land a large bird, of unknown species, stalked by us and disap- 
peared. We were cautioned by the captain not to fire at any 
animal, except in self-defence, for fear of alarming the natives. 

As we approached the base of the mountain, the ground be- 
came more hilly. Winding round a straggling grove of trees, 
a loud screeching and chattering rose upon our ears. A flock 

N 



146 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

of paradise birds hovered overhead, and flew across the prai- 
rie, with their bright-yellow plumes glittering in the sunshine 
like golden threads. The sight of these magnificent and beau- 
tiful birds, combined with the lovely scenery of the prairie, in- 
duced us to name this the Garden of Eden. 

We were now full fifteen miles inland, and were greatly sur- 
prised at not having seen any of the inhabitants. Halting in 
a timber, we dined and quenched our thirst at a neighbouring 
rivulet ; after which we travelled onward towards the mount- 
ain. When near its wooded base, a pack of dogs barked loudly, 
and a wild boar rushed out of the forest, hotly pursued by dogs 
and savages armed with spears and clubs. The boar did not like 
our appearance, and gave us a wide berth. The unthankful 
porker did not know that we were the means of saving his 
life. The savages and dogs were out upon a grand boar-hunt 
in our Garden of Eden ; they halted, terrified at sight of us 
" Bedouins of the Garden," and then, wheeling round, streaked 
away out of sight into the forest. We followed their trail, and 
commenced the ascent of the mountain. With our hatchets 
we cut into various trees, which we considered of great value, 
and searched particularly for sandal wood, which we had rea- 
son to suppose existed here, together with the trees that pro- 
duce camphor, gum-copal, caoutchouc, cajeput oil, &c. 

We now heard voices, and saw savages winding down a 
rocky pass towards us. They were unarmed, and led by 
Woner-Woner, whose wampum belt rattled as he seized the 
captain by the hand (we had told him that shaking hands was 
a sign of friendship) and gave it a hearty shake, and invited us 
to his village, which was three miles distant. Woner-Woner 
and his warriors led the van up the mountain, while we fol- 
lowed, and brought up the rear. We wound round about 
through the forest, and at length turned short to the right, en- 
tering a most charming and rural little valley that nestled in 
the bosom of the mountain. It was literally covered with 
groves of cocoanut, bread-fruit, banana, plantain, cinnamon, 
nutmeg, orange, sago, and other trees. Scattered about be- 
tween these, in the openings, were well-cultivated patches of 
golopo, sweet potato, yam, and sugar-cane, fenced in with 
bamboo. Looking down the vale, we caught glimpses through 
the trees of a rivulet of pure water, dancing and gurgling over 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 147 

a rocky bottom, while near its brink, upon a piece of bottom- 
land, shaded by groves of trees, was situated a large and very 
neat village. A delightful and fragrant perfume was wafted 
from the spicy foliage, and the climate of this mountain vale 
was cool and refreshing. Here were the valley and village of 
Imburado. We marched through the village two by two. The 
populace eyed us with fear and reverence. We entered the 
palace or council-chamber, and saw a venerable old man seat- 
ed upon a mat on a bamboo platform, and by his side sat two 
buxom women, who we afterward learned were his wives. 

The old man was Imburado II., the king or patriarch of the 
place, and the son of the founder of the village. 

Woner-Woner introduced our captain to the venerable king, 
who shook hands with him and repeated his name, " Cap-in 
Mor-el." We seated ourselves upon mats, and the council- 
chamber was filled with wondering savages. 

Woner rose with a solemn aspect, and, motioning the sav- 
ages to be seated, all became as silent as death, while he de- 
livered a speech, which W and myself interpreted as fol- 
lows : 

" Cap-in Mor-el great king ; he come from moon in big war- 
canoe ; his people all great people at home ; more powerful 
than Imburado ! they very good, friendly people, and come to 
look at our country, to trade with us, and to make us presents 
of valuable things we never saw before ; you must make much 
of them, and treat your friends well, for they are powerful en- 
emies. The people in the moon shake hands, which makes 
them good friends ; so you must shake hands with Cap-in 
Mor-el and his people, all the same as Imburado." 

Woner ended his speech amid great cheering ; we left the 
palace, and seated ourselves upon mats beneath the shade of 
trees facing the rivulet. 

We were besieged by a mob composed of all ages and both 
sexes, who came to shake hands with, and admire, the people 
from the moon. 

. These natives wear no clothing whatever, except the mar- 
ried women, who wear a mat of cocoa leaves tied round the 
waist, and hanging nearly to the knees. The males are all 
circumcised, though why this was deemed essential 1 did not 
learn. The features of these people were quite prepossessing, 



148 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

their foreheads intellectual, and their eyes black and expres 
sive. Some of the young women were decidedly handsome, 
and smiled upon us, weatherbeaten seamen as we were, with 
a double row of even and polished ivory, while their eyes 
sparkled with gratitude as we presented to each of them a 
string of beautiful beads, which they placed round their necks 
and danced for joy. 

Each family cultivates what edible roots they require for 
themselves, and they till the ground by hand with wooden 
spades and hoes. They cut down trees of large size, and make 
all their implements with tools of shells and stones. The 
whole duty of a family consists in keeping their house in or- 
der, in constructing various implements and ornaments, and in 
raising what they require for food. If it requires two weeks 
to cut down one tree, it makes no difference ; for they make 
no account of time. Of course, with their rude tools, they 
cannot work fast, but they can work as fast as they require. 
They have a stock on hand for immediate use, and from day 
to day peck and chip a little upon some new implement, which 
is sure to be finished as soon as it is needed. Their daily rou- 
tine of duty consists in working an hour or two in the planta- 
tion, and as many more around the house, at various jobs. 
The other part of the day is devoted to pleasure excursions and 
recreations of various kinds ; such as fishing and hunting, and 
sailing in canoes upon the bosom of the placid lake which is 
situated on the summit of Mount Imburado, and the waters of 
which rush in a cataract down a rocky ravine, feeding the 
purling stream that runs through the vale. 

The climate of this region seems to be perfectly healthy, the 
soil exceedingly rich, the wants of the people few and easily 
supplied. Each man has a plantation of his own, from which, 
with very little labour, he raises all the necessaries of his sim- 
ple life : the women work upon the farm as well as the men, 
and the food of the people consists almost entirely of the fruits 
and roots of this tropical climate. Each man has one, two, or 
three wives, as he chooses ; it seems to cost nothing to raise 
a family of half a dozen children, and their whole manner of 
life is eminently simple, and apparently happy. 



N THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 149 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Woner-Woner had not forgotten me. " Ou nomer tomer- 
rorer tu-ong-er" (come with me to my house), said he, taking 
me by the hand with a strong grip. 

His wampum and bangles rattled as he led me a fine race to 
the extreme end of the village, where we entered a handsome- 
ly platted bamboo tuonger (house), thirty feet square, and 
twenty high to the peak of the roof, with a door in front and 
another in the rear, both of which were closed or opened at 
pleasure by a kind of movable mat. It stood upon a sloping 
bank of the rivulet, imbosomed among palm-trees ; and the 
front door looked out upon a rural scene on the opposite side 
of the vale, across the stream. 

The inside of the tuonger contained but one apartment, 
with a smooth, hard, white floor, made of coral-lime mortar. 
Around the sides of the apartment were hung culinary uten- 
sils and implements of war and the chase, of exquisite work- 
manship and elaborate carvings. Bedsteads were also ranged 
round the apartment, with mats upon them. We seated our- 
selves upon one, and Woner showed me a spear, made of fra- 
grant and valuable wood, which he told me abounded round 
the lake upon the mountain. It was not yet completed, and 
he produced the knife I had given him, which he praised high- 
ly, and with which he intended to complete its tapering blade. 
The fishing-nets and lines, with tortoise-shell hooks, were 
equal to the best implements of the kind I had ever seen. 
Everything seemed clean and neatly arranged. Upon a wicker 
shelf stood several well-made baskets, with covers ; and over 
them hung some network bags, of fine texture. Near the rear 
doorway, upon the floor, stood an immense unglazed earthen 
jar, which contained fresh water, and held nearly a barrel. 
On a shelf near by were variously-shaped cups, mugs, jugs, 
pots, and bowls, made of red earth or wood. Facing the 
rear door stood a log of wood, and upon it was a big wooden 
bowl. Around this stood a tall, pleasant-featured woman, and 
two young women with modest countenances. The group 

N2 



150 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

were hard at work, with their hands in the bowl, mixing sago 
for a batch of bread. The eldest was probably thirty-five 
years old. She was the wife of Woner, and he loved her so 
much that he had no other. The two buxom young women 
were his daughters. They were plump as partridges, and just 
blooming into womanhood. The eldest was probably seven- 
teen, and the other two years younger. They came to look 
at the stranger from the moon, and Woner introduced me to 
them, and we " shook hands." The name of his eldest daugh- 
ter was Mener, and of the youngest Toloo ; these were his only 
children. 

A savage now came in with a message from Imburado, who 
desired to see Woner in relation to the quarters that were to 
be provided for " Cap-in Mor-el" and his people. Woner de- 
parted, leaving me in charge of his family. 

The young women soon became particularly inquisitive as 
regarded the texture of my clothing and hair. I presented 
them each a string of beads and a gimlet. They seemed 
very thankful for the present, and sat upon the bedstead op- 
posite me examining the wonderful trinkets. At length they 
had apparently discovered their use. The beads they hung 
round their necks, and suspended the gimlets upon their bo- 
soms, by way of ornament, and then smiled and clapped their 
hands and danced for joy. I told them to bring me a piece of 
arbaee (wood). They scampered out of doors, and soon re- 
turned and presented me a sapling, through which I bored a 
hole with Mener's gimlet. The young women shouted in 
wonder, and sat down beside me to try their skill in boring 
holes. " Ou-nomer ou-no !" shouted their mother from with- 
out, and they scampered away. 

It was not long before Mener and Toloo returned, bringing 
a bunch of fine bananas, some cocoanuts, and fresh sago bread, 
which they placed before me, and which I ate with a keen ap- 
petite and a decided relish, and quenched my thirst with the 
wholesome and delightful water of the green cocoanut.* 

* The old cocoanut, such as we geUin New-York, is unwholesome, and 
contains only a spoonful of oily milk. These are only used by the natives to 
plant or make oil. The cocoanut of Bidera is very large, and used when green. 
It is then filled with nearly a pint of pure water, destitute of colour or 
oil, and is very grateful and refreshing to all palates. It can be cut with a 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 151 

Having finished my meal, I held a tete-a-tete with the young 
women, who informed me something about the marriage cer- 
emonies of their tribe. If a man loves a girl and desires to 
marry her, all he has to do is to build a wigwam and make a 
plantation, and ask the consent first of herself and then of her 
parents. If both are obtained, the couple go alone to Imburado, 
and are united in wedlock. The next day, at the beat of the 
tum-tum, they go to the great square, accompanied by their pa- 
rents, and Imburado proclaims to the multitude their marriage, 
and invites them all to solemnize the ceremony by a grand 
dance in the evening around blazing fires. 

It was now night, and Woner returned. He said he had told 
Cap-in Mor-el that Thomas was at his tuonger, and he had 
consented to my remaining over night with him. So I agreed 
to spend the night with Woner and his family, who prepared a 
bedstead for me. The captain and crew took possession of 
the council-chamber and slept on mats, with their arms stack- 
ed and sentinels pacing around. 

A blazing candle- nut, placed upon a pole stuck in the centre 
of the floor, gave us light, while Woner and his interesting fam- 
ily related to me several anecdotes of their tribe, one of which 
I will record : Many moons ago, too many to count, a race of 
giant men, who were very black, landed upon the southeast 
coast of Bidera, facing the Papua Sea. They were a warlike 
and bloodthirsty set of savages. They invaded that part of the 
island, and carried fire and sword among the peaceful Biderans, 
many of whom they massacred, and drank the warm blood 
from their reeking bodies, while the rest fled before the in- 
vaders, and scattered themselves over different parts of the isl- 
and. Among those who fled was Imburado I., who crossed 
the mountain-range and founded the present colony, which 
continued to flourish in peace until a few years ago, when the 
giant people increased, and waxed so strong that they began to 
make incursions up the mountains. The people of Imburado 
had often met and fought them with the spear, war-club, and 

knife and plugged the same as a watermelon. The meat inside the shell has 
just begun to form, and is sweet and nourishing, and can be scooped out and 
eaten with a spoon the same as jelly. The cocoanuts purchased in New- 
York compare with these as dried apples do with the same fruit fresh from 
the tree. 



152 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

sling ; but in most of the engagements they had been defeated. 
Finally, the black warriors threatened to invade the valley of 
Imburado. They were led on by a mighty warrior of gigantic 
stature ; his name was Pelaccar (forked lightning). 

To enter the valley from the south over the mountains, it 
was necessary to pass through a narrow rocky defile, which 
was overhung by beetling cliffs. The domestic and peaceful 
inhabitants were thrown into dreadful consternation at the 
threatened invasion, and trembled at the thought of their des- 
olated valley and their slaughtered children. 

The present celebrated brave, Woner-Woner, had been most 
successful in all engagements with the foe, and he was now 
selected by common consent as the leader of the army of Im- 
burado. The warriors of the valley, armed for battle, assem- 
bled in the great square and received a blessing from their ven- 
erable king, who exhorted them to do their utmost in defence 
of their wives, their children, and their happy home, which 
were now in imminent danger of being destroyed by the ruth- 
less enemy. 

Headed by Woner-Woner, they marched up the mountain 
to meet the foe. Arrived at the defile above mentioned, Wo- 
ner, with admirable tact and consummate bravery, secreted 
the Imburado army upon the summit of a cliff overhanging the 
narrowest part of the defile, and laid in wait two days ; at 
the expiration of which time the invading army hove in sight, 
and, without any suspicion, marched at once into the defile. 
Onward they came, marching in all the pomp and glory of well- 
disciplined and hitherto successful warriors. The van was led 
by the colossal Pelaccar in person. In one hand he held a 
huge war-club, partly resting upon his shoulder, and in the other 
an enormous shield. Upon his head flaunted a paradise plume, 
that towered far above the heads of his fellows. His counte- 
nance was stern, his mien haughty, and his tread firm and en- 
ergetic. Never had that noble warrior been vanquished, and 
his brow seemed to bear the stamp of invincible courage. At 
length the tramp of the host was heard winding round the base 
of the beetling cliff. 

" Up and ring the war-yell !" shouted Woner-W'oner. With 
a terrific yell the army of Imburado rushed like a torrent 
upon the brink of the cliff, and cast down a shower of stones 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 153 

and rocks upon the foe ! A terrible groan rose from the chasm 
and echoed dolefully along the cliff. Away sped Woner, fol- 
lowed by his victorious army, who blocked up the south pass 
of the defile, and thus prevented the retreat of the remnant of 
the defeated enemy. The latter were butchered with the war- 
club and spear. Not one of the black warriors escaped to tell 
the awful tale. 

The victory of the Imburado army had been most complete, 
and they chanted a song of joy as they looked upon the 
corpses of their enemies, whose reeking gore stained the de- 
file, which was ever after known as Pelaccar Ahshing (light- 
ning's blood). 

Woner cut off the head of Pelaccar, and, thrusting his spear 
into the mouth, marched down the valley of Imburado, hold- 
ing in front the bleeding head of the giant, while the army fol- 
lowed, loaded with the spoils of the enemy, consisting of war 
implements and ornaments. They chanted the song of vic- 
tory, which echoed along the vale, and told their wives and 
children that they were safe. 

The blanched scull of Pelaccar now hangs upon a pole, 
planted on a rock in the centre of the rivulet opposite the vil- 
lage, a dreadful warning to the enemies of Imburado ! The 
skeletons of the black army still whiten the pass of Pelaccar 
Ahshing. 

At the conclusion of this exciting tale, the candle-nut had 
nearly burned out, and we all lay down to sleep in the same 
apartment, but each had a separate bed. 

Not knowing what might happen, I cocked my pistols with- 
out noise, and laid them by my side, while my rifle was plant- 
ed near my head. 

In the morning I awoke from a sound sleep. The cocks 
were crowing, and birds carolling their matin song. Woner 
rose and departed. Soon after his wife and daughters rose 
and busied themselves in preparing the morning meal. I had 
slept so sweetly that I began to think there was some charm 
in the bedstead, and examined it minutely. The following 
drawing represents the riarnu (bedstead) upon which I slept. 
It is composed of four crotched stakes, secured in the floor, 
and supporting a concave bamboo frame, which was much 
higher at the head than foot, and no pillow was required, ex.- 



154 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTUEES 




cept two or three folds of the mat that lay upon it, merely to 
keep the head on a right line with the body. The position 
was perfectly easy and natural, and I have since profited by 
the lesson which I received from the family of Woner. 

Mener and Toloo took a great fancy to my striped shirt, 
and nothing would do but they must try it on. Mener strutted 
round the tuonger with it upon her body, and showed her 
mother how nice it looked. 

The girls each put a water jar upon their heads, and, beck- 
oning me to follow, led the way through a spicy grove along 
the river bank, until we came to a spring of pure water that 
bubbled through the sand at the base of a hill, and filled a stony 
basin. My guides proved to be romping girls ; they filled their 
jars at the spring, and when I stooped to sip the refreshing 
liquid from the stony basin, dashed a jar of water over me, to 
wash the " white paint" from my body, and make me the same 
colour as themselves ! 

Having washed our hands and faces, we returned to the 
tuonger. 

Woner soon came home, and we sat upon mats with the 
family to breakfast, which consisted of baked bread-fruit, 
boiled yams,* and various kinds of fruit. 

After breakfast we sat upon the bank of the rivulet and held 
a pow-wow. I showed Woner a piece of " pure gold,"f and 
asked if he had seen anything like it in Bidera. He recognised 
it at once, and said that plenty of it existed in Awarra, and he 
had picked up a powder resembling my gold-dust! in the 
streams at the foot of Barretuno Bay. He added that his peo- 

* The bread-fruit was baked in the ground on an oven of hot stones. Tho 
yams were boiled in a red earthen jar. 
t It happened to be a piece of brass that I had polished for this purpose. 
J Brass filings, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 155 

pie had not visited Ragater Awarra lately, because the black 
warriors had made incursions in that direction. Having gained 
this valuable information, we enjoyed a delightful bath in the 
rivulet, and returned to the tuonger, where we took a siesta. 

I was roused by the Medicine Edward, who entered and in- 
formed me that the captain was ready to march on his return, 
and awaited me. I told the Medicine that I had a notion to 
take up my residence among these people until the brig should 
return to take me away ; for I wanted to explore this country 
more, and particularly desired to visit Imburado Lake and Pe- 
laccar Ahshing. The Medicine acquiesced with me, and said, 
" If you stay, so will I." He made himself much at home, and 
I introduced him to Mener and Toloo. He said that the cap- 
tain and crew had got wind of a " gold-mine !" " What gold 
mine V I asked. He told a story that they had picked up 
from Imburado, similar to the one related to me by Woner. 
My plans were thus all frustrated, as I had intended to keep 
the thing a secret. 

Three savages arrived at the door, quite out of breath, and 
said that the captain was vexed at the absence of his children, 
and desired our immediate return. We did not expect that he 
would permit us to remain, for he could not well dispense with 
our services as interpreters. Fearing that he would fly into a 
rage, and accuse these kind natives of having kidnapped us, 
we were reluctantly compelled to bid farewell to Woner- Wo- 
ner and his affectionate family. 

At parting, Mener presented me a big piece of sago bread 
to put in my wallet, and Toloo gave the Medicine a stick of 
sugar-cane. 

We found the crew drawn up in marching order ; the cap- 
tain shook hands with Imburado, and the crew with the host ; 
after which we took up our line of march " homeward" (the 
crew called the vessel "home"). 

We entered the Garden of Eden, when its grassy domes and 
wooded knolls were gilded by the fiery rays of a setting sun. 
Beautiful flowers and medicinal plants, with which we were 
unacquainted, lay scattered about. We saw an ichneumon and 
an animal resembling the kangaroo. Late at night we arrived 
at Woner Cove, and were soon on board the vessel, snugly 
stowed in our hammocks. 



156 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

The next day we cleaned our arms and put the squadron in 
complete order. The crew held a smoking council upon the 
forecastle deck in the evening, the subject discussed being the 
prospect of finding a gold-mine. The next morning, before 
daybreak, I was aroused by the ringing of the bell and the cry, 
" Gold hunters, away !" We manned the squadron and set sail 
out of the cove. When the sun rose, we had crossed Barretuno 
Bay, and were near the foot of MorrelPs Peninsula. Between 
us and the volcano lay a lofty mountain, above which was seen 
the cloud of smoke. From the intervening land rose a vol- 
ume of steam far into the air. We landed upon the beach. 
The captain, armed to the teeth, rattled along our line in rapid 
review. After exercising us to his satisfaction, we set forward 
on our march. 

The squadron lay snugly moored at a little distance from 
the beach, in charge of three men, who had orders not to al- 
low any natives to come alongside. 

Leaving the beach, we passed through a jungle and came to 
a slough of light gray mud or mortar, which appeared to have 
been poured here in a liquid state. The surface was baked 
into a hard lamina, which was cracked in many places. It 
was two hundred feet across, and its opposite side was bound- 
ed by a steep hill or ridge, covered with stinted underwood. 
It was necessary to cross the slough or abandon the course we 
intended to pursue. Accordingly, we ventured, singly and 
cautiously, upon the strongest part of the crust. The captain, 
myself, and three others got safely over. From our success 
the sailors became more bold, and pressed one upon the other. 
Most unluckily, a tender spot in the crust broke under the 
weight of two, and they sank up to their armpits into the mud. 
There they stuck, perfectly helpless, all the while sinking 
deeper and deeper, until at length nothing but their heads and 
muzzles of their muskets could be seen. They uttered ago- 
nizing cries for help, and said the mortar grew hotter and hot- 
ter the farther they sank down, and that at their feet it was 
nearly scalding hot ! The crew retreated from the crust in 
alarm, and I feared me that our two shipmates would be roast- 
ed aljve in this mysterious slough ! We cut two long poles 
from the jungle, and one man ventured to shove them across 
the tender spot, one on each side of the niired nien, Most 



IN" THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 157 

fortunately, they succeeded in hauling themselves up upon 
the poles, and got out in safety. We threw a bridge of poles 
across the tender spot, and the crew, one by one, got over safe. 
Now we climbed the steep and craggy hill or mountain, 
hauling ourselves up by the shrubs and vines. After an ardu- 
ous labour of one hour we arrived upon the summit, which 
was 600 feet above the level of the sea. The bay was gem- 
med with verdant islands ; to the south extended inland an 
undulating and lovely valley. We journeyed westward, and 
soon found ourselves upon a ridge, or breastwork, enclosing 
a vast circular plain, or basin, five miles in diameter, and 
bounded in the distance by a lofty peak that divided it from 
Morrell's Volcano. The plain lay two or three hundred feet 
beneath us, and seemed to be covered with the ruins of a 
great city. A city of porphyry palaces, pyramids, obelisks, 
leaning towers, triumphal arches, amphitheatres, mosques 
with their towering minarets, and battlements with bacules ! 
Heaps of smouldering stones and rubbish lay scattered about. 
In the centre of the plain was a vast rock, fifty feet high and 
several hundred in diameter. It appeared to have been rent 
asunder, and from the chasm in its centre spouted a vast jet 
of boiling water, fifty feet into the air, from which rose curl- 
ing volumes of steam up to the very clouds. 

We stood upon a beetling cliff that overhung the plain, and 
near the foot of which was a pond of fluid vermilion earth that 
boiled and bubbled up, in numerous conical elevations, that 
emitted jets of white gaseous vapour, accompanied by crack- 
ing reports, while, at the same time, the beautiful bright ver- 
milion was scattered about in rain, that had bespattered and 
bespangled most brilliantly several cabbage-palm trees that 
grew near the margin of the pond. 

The rock upon which we stood seemed to be composed of 
a fine and cutting substance. It would probably make good 
porcelain, or answer well for oil stones. 

The whole plain or valley beneath seemed to have been 
ravaged by fire ; and at no very distant day, it had probably 
been the crater of a volcano, the flame of which had shifted 
over to blaze away in Morrell's Volcano, on the other side of 
the lofty peak. 
The scene presented upon looking over this vast plain wag 

Q 



158 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

one of appalling and desolate grandeur. Our company stood 
speechless, and gazed upon it in amazement. The following 
engraving will give some idea of this plain, or volcanic crater. 



We moved along until we came to a chasm, which we de- 
scended, entered the plain or crater, and found ourselves 
among the ruins, where we separated and wandered about to 
view the monumental edifices. 

Two shipmates and myself stood admiring a beautiful mar- 
ble obelisk, upon which seemed to have been a hieroglyphic 
inscription that was now nearly defaced ! Holding my rifle at 
arm's length, I walked towards it and struck it with the muz- 
zle ; it crumbled to pieces, and vanished into a heap of mad- 
reporic cinders ! The ground gave way under me ; I sank 
down three feet; my rifle was discharged; a suffocating sul- 
phureous vapour passed over my face ; visions of Aladdin, 
Peter Wilkins, and the Flying Dutchman flickered through my 
mind, and I fell down senseless ! Anything farther I knew 
not until I recovered, and, opening my eyes, saw my ship- 
mates standing over me, bathing my head with water taken 
from a bladder in my wallet. I soon recovered and jumped up. 
It was the vapour from the hole into which I had fallen that 
had nearly suffocated me ; my shipmates saved my life by 
dragging me away from its baneful influence. 

The ruins were composed of cinderish substances similar to 
that of the " obelisk." Calcined rocks, that crumbled to pieces 
at the slightest touch, lay strewed about. Many fathomless 
fissures and bottomless pits, from which issued strong sulphu- 



IN THE 1'ACIFIC OCEAN. 159 

reous gas, that deposited upon their margins beautiful crystal- 
line prisms of sulphur, dotted the crater. 

Turning around a heap of ruins, we came upon a squad of 
our crew, who were looking up at a lofty leaning pinnacle that 
seemed ready to fall. They did not see us at first, and, as 
they stood with their muskets at slope-arms and otherwise 
armed to the teeth, with wallets containing two days' rations, 
they looked not unlike a banditti, who had sought refuge here 
away from the world, among these incomprehensible and won- 
derful ruins. 

At the sound of the French horn we followed the captain 
through the crater. 

The ground became so cinderish and crumbling, that in 
many places it refused to bear our weight ; while, if we devi- 
ated too far to the right or left, we were in danger of being 
suffocated by the sulphureous gas that jetted through the fis- 
sures. Many times we held our breath until we had passed 
through a current of vapour. We advanced very cautiously, 
sounding our way with the muzzles of our muskets. One of 
these yawning fissures we sounded with a lead and line, but 
got no bottom. A sailor came near falling into one, and the 
crew named them, not inappropriately, the "devil's trap- 
doors." 

At length we reached the rock from which spouted the jet 
of hot water. It was bluff on the side towards us, and, to get 
upon it, we found it necessary to go round to the windward 
side. A stream of hot water that ran from the rock impeded 
our progress, and we were obliged to walk down it for some 
distance, until the water became cool enough for us to wade 
across. 

This difficulty surmounted, we soon reached the rock, and 
found it divided into two parts, one fifty feet high and the other 
twenty five. We climbed up and ranged ourselves upon the 
summit of the lowest part, which formed quite abroad plateau. 
The chasm between the rocks, or, rather, in the centre of the 
" rock," formed a vast caldron, with a mouth or outlet that 
was somewhat lower than the part of the rock upon which we 
stood. At regular intervals of about fifteen minutes, water, 
in a boiling state, rose rapidly and filled the caldron above its 
mouth, and nearly up to the summit of the rock where we 



160 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

stood. When the water bubbled in all its fury a deep rum- 
bling sound was heard, the rock seemed to shake, and a vast 
column of water was thrown from the centre of the caldron 
fifty feet into the air, while curling white clouds of steam scat- 
tered upward towards the sky. Now the element seemed to 
have gained vent, and its fury subsided ; the jet ceased; the 
surplus water ran over the mouth in a beautiful cascade, and 
formed the stream before mentioned. 

In fifteen minutes this scene was renewed, and so on per- 
petually. The rock containing the caldron or boiling spring 
was of a species unknown to us. It was hard and solid, and 
was the only thing in the crater that had resisted the action of 
the fire that appeared to have flamed around it. The ther- 
mometer thrust hastily into the water of the caldron, upon a 
pole of ramrods tied together with rope yarns, gave a temper- 
ature of 210°. The water was salt, and strongly impregnated 
with sulphur and other mineral substances. 

" A gold-mine !" shouted Man-of-war Bill, as he stood perch- 
ed upon the brink of the rock, pointing with his hand over the 
crater. 

Those magic words magnetized us all. We did, indeed, see 
something in a distant part of the crater that resembled rocks 
of gold. 

"Ay !" replied a sailor. " Our fortunes are made now ; no- 
thing but gold could resist the action of fire, except this rock!" 

We scrambled down the rock and made the best of our way 
over the scoria towards the "gold-mine." With elated hopes 
we toiled along, and no difficulties seemed too great to be sur- 
mounted. Various and comical were the speculations of the 
Jack-tars as to how they would : nvest their share, and hand 
round the can of grog in toasting sweethearts and wives." 
Quite out of breath and covered with perspiration, we arrived 
at the " gold-mine !" 

An axe was raised and buried into the " pure gold !" We 
were sadly disappointed and chagrined, as it pr wed to be a bed 
of pure powdered sulphur, the surface of whicn was covered 
with a crystallized and glittering crust, which, in the sunshine, 
had been mistaken for gold. We were thrown ail-aback. 

The trunk of a large tree, lying upon the sulphur-bed, now 
attracted our attention, and upon examination we found that 
it was petrified, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 161 



CHAPTER XX. 

We sat upon the tree and ate dinner ; after which we broke 
off specimens and journeyed across the crater to the lofty- 
peak, which we ascended more than half way, and toiled round 
towards its opposite side. It was nearly dark when we arrived 
in sight of Morrell's Volcano, and camped in a kind of cave, 
formed by a shelving lava rock. The heat of the flames kept 
off the dew. We held a grand smoking council, as usual, look- 
ing out over the flaming valley. No signs of savages had been 
seen, but we used caution, and stationed sentinels before lying 
down to sleep. All night the volcano bellowed, and fairly 
shook the mountain ; but our company were fatigued and well- 
nigh worn out, so that nothing could disturb their slumbers. 

At daybreak we started to return, and, winding round the 
rim of the crater, entered the forest, crossed a rivulet, saw 
some beautiful specimens of agate and other stones, also ginger 
and valuable dyewoods. We arrived upon the beach opposite 
the squadron at 3 P.M. All was safe. We embarked and set 
sail for the foot of the bay, where we saw a rock overhung by 
mangrove-trees, from which we collected a full supply of fine 
oysters. After this we landed upon a beautiful sand-beach, 
situated on the shore of the main. Here we prepared to cook 
our supper and pitch our tent. Some cut wood and made a 
fire, and others piled the oysters in a heap to be roasted. 

Suddenly the war-yell of savages echoed through the for- 
est! We abandoned the oysters, flew terrified to arms, fled 
on board the squadron, and shoved off clear of the beach. A 
string of large, black, masculine warrioresses marched out 
upon the beach, and formed in line near the forest. These 
women presented a savage aspect. Their hair was shaved 
from the front of their heads, and the bald spot, together with 
their faces, were whitewashed, while the front part of their 
bodies were painted red. They each held an enormous shield 
in one hand and a spear in the other. We had no sooner made 
a move to pull in and ask the " ladies 1 ' what they wanted, than 
then poured from the forest a host of bona fide warriors, who 

9 



162 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

ranged along in front of the Amazons, uttered the war-yell, and 
brandished their spears at us in threatening defiance ! 

" Three cheers, my boys !" cried the captain. 

We gave three loud and hearty shouts, followed by the usual 
racket of our drum and wind instruments. The savages fled 
into the forest and disappeared. 

Presently two lusty young women, with their bodies paint- 
ed in red and white rings, came down to the water's edge, 
making very friendly signs, and inviting us to come and eat the 
stalks of sugar-cane which they waved in their hands. The 
bait was tempting ; we were about to land, when the women 
fled, and a host of warriors came rattling along the beach. 
Again we shoved ofF, and a volley of stones, thrown from 
slings by the savages, clattered against the boats and struck 
some of us, without doing much injury. We again struck up 
a clamour upon our instruments, and the savages again fled 
into the wood. 

Presently four women appeared, making friendly signs as 
before, only they were bolder, and waded out into the water. 
We made friendly signs in turn, and drew cautiously as near 
to them as they would allow. The captain now resolved to 
make the women prisoners, and detain them until a friendly 
communication could be opened with their tribe. We held up 
tempting trinkets, and enticed them over their depth into the 
water. " Give way, boys !" cried the captain. We promptly 
responded by plying the oars with nerve and energy. As we 
rushed upon the Amazons, they wheeled about like lightning, 
and, swimming like dolphins, landed upon the beach at the 
moment the squadron struck the ground. Out we leaped, in 
full pursuit ! The warriors poured out of the forest and rang 
the war-yell ! W T e replied by firing our pistols into the air ; 
they fled precipitately ; we pursued the women, and had fairly 
laid hands upon them, near the skirts of the forest, when our 
progress was suddenly checked by a volley of stones and 
spears, thrown by savages who had secreted themselves in 
the tree-tops. A spear passed through a sailor's hat and pin- 
ned it to the ground, while a sharp stone wounded me se- 
verely on the right cheek near the eye. The women escaped, 
while we levelled our rifles at the tops of the trees and fired ! 
Wild screams rent the air, and one savage uttered a mournful 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 163 

groan as he let go his hold on a tree and fell, turning a sum- 
merset, from the height of forty feet, upon the ground, a bleed- 
ing corpse. 

Night now came on and we embarked, steering by compass 
for "home," where we arrived after midnight, quite fatigued, 
and turned in to repose. 

The next day we devoted to making the vessel and squa- 
dron " all snug, 1 ' and to bathing, washing, and recreation. 

The following drawing is a correct representation of the 
canoe used by the natives of the north coast of Bidera. It is 



composed of one log dug out. The float at the end of the out- 
rigger is composed of light wood, and prevents the canoe from 
upsetting. In regard to the size of the canoes, they vary, and 
are from fifteen to forty feet in length. 

At daybreak the next morning we weighed anchor and got 
under way with a lively song. 

Sailing out of the bay, we worked our way through the dan- 
gerous reefs. We were soon safe upon the Bidera Sea, and, 
taking our departure from Bidera, steered N.W. half W. 

Next day no land in sight. In the evening we sighted Sher- 
burne Shoal, a vast semicircular patch of coral, which is rap- 
idly undergoing the process of transformation into an island. 
A ring of pure sand has been cast upon the reef, forming a 
sandy island but little elevated above the ocean, upon which 
lay strewed the trunks of trees, which will in time decay and 
form a soil ; upon this, some stray cocoanuts, driven by the 
winds and currents, will plant themselves, and thus form an 
island covered with cocoanut-trees. 

The islands of the Pacific Ocean appear to be divided into 
two great classes; namely, volcanic or primitive, and coral 
or secondary. The former are elevated more or less ; the lat- 
ter are always low. 

To the westward of the Admiralty Islands we performed a 
" sliding gunter traverse" through flood- wood, or the trunks of 
ojd trees that floated about. 



164 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

On a fine morning we saw, and sailed along the west side of, 
a low and beautiful island, covered with verdure, and fringed 
around the shore with a conspicuous white sand-beach. It 
was one of the islands composing the group situated to the 
west of that of the Hermits. Hauling our wind to the east- 
ward, we saw thirty or forty beautiful secondary islets, ran- 
ged in a semicircle, and connected by dangerous coral reefs. 
They were covered with cocoanut and various other trees, the 
tops of which could be seen before the land. We endeavoured 
to penetrate the reef upon the west or lee side ; but at every 
attempt were confronted by breakers, and at length were driv- 
en off out to sea, scudding under bare poles before a black 
rain-squall. At night we lay to. 

At baybreak the next morning, not a cloud could be seen 
floating between us and the heavens ; the sun rose in splen- 
dour ; we set all sail, coasting the north and east side of the isl- 
ands. A line of breakers and lofty combers extended along 
the outer edge of the coral barrier, but inside reposed the pla- 
cid lagoon, gemmed with its pretty islets, between which pass- 
ed to and fro canoes filled with savages. They glided swiftly 
along, propelled with great lug-sails, that were trimmed and 
managed with considerable skill. We discovered two en- 
trances into the lagoon, and edged in near to the breakers. A 
large canoe, propelled by two sails, and filled with armed sav- 
ages, came boldly up to the inner edge of the reef and hove to. 
The savages stood up, made friendly signs, and held up fruit 
and tortoise-shell. They were the countrymen of poor Mon- 
day ; upon one of the islets composing this group he was born ; 
his relatives no doubt believed that he had long since been of- 
fered up as a sacrifice to our cannibalism. Alas ! he was not 
here in person to convince them to the contrary, and they 
would not take our word ! Fearing that our hands would be 
imbrued in more blood, we tacked ship, steered to the eastward, 
and were soon out of sight of land. 

We sighted the Hermits, and various other pretty islands, 
and arrived the next day at the w 7 est end of the Admiralty Isl- 
ands. I never heard of any white man landing upon the lat- 
ter group ; they are very incorrectly laid down in our charts, 
and many of the islands that form the group are quite un- 
known. Tt is composed of one central primary and elevated 



Iff THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 165 

island, named Marso, which is sixty or seventy miles long ; 
this is surrounded by hundreds of islands and islets variously 
grouped, and of the primary and secondary formations. The 
islets to the eastward and southward are generally of the pri- 
mary formation ; but the whole north coast of Marso is fringed 
by a chain of pretty islets of the secondary formation, which 
are connected by coral reefs, and range along five miles, more 
or less, from the coast of the main, forming a lagoon that is 
protected from the sea, and which affords an inland or river 
navigation of over sixty miles. This lagoon can be entered at 
its east or west end by ships of any tonnage, and there seem- 
ed to be other safe passages through the reefs. We named it 
Morrell's Lagoon, and, entering its west end, came to anchor. 

Several large canoes, under full sail, came from the small 
islands towards us. They approached boldly, and were filled 
with an athletic and noble-looking set of warriors, who were 
well armed with murderous obsidian spears. They came 
shouting alongside, and we entered into a trade with them. 
They departed well pleased, and returned to their islands. 
Soon after two canoes came from the main island, or Marso. 
The natives in them seemed cowed down and afraid of those 
who had just left us. The former had probably been banished 
from the small islands by the latter for some crime which they 
had committed. 

The next day a fleet of canoes, filled with warriors, hove in 
sight, coming from the small islands. The van was led by a 
war-canoe, upon the platform of which stood the king or chief, 
whose name was Tiano. He made friendly signs and held up 
his carbo-gourd, while the captain did the same with his. The 
savage chief was soon alongside. He exchanged a chew of 
betle with the captain, or " white king," and a treaty of com- 
merce was immediately ratified. Himself and warriors came 
on board to look at the vessel, and were much surprised at all 
they saw ; they made the captain the usual promises about 
trading on his return. 

Tiano and the captain stood upon the taffrail. The former 
presented the latter a large hog, an eagle, and a sloth ; and the 
latter presented the former trinkets of various kinds, together 
with a beautiful red cloth crown, ornamented with silver beads 
and with " diamonds" of pure glass, which he placed upon the 



166 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

head of the savage chief. At the sight of this the host of warriors 
in the fleet of canoes that surrounded the vessel uttered a wild 
and deafening shout of joy, while Tiano himself was so well 
pleased that he delivered his people a long harangue, to which 
they listened with open mouths and wondering faces at the 
mysterious tale that he told them about the sights he had seen 
on board. When he concluded, they danced, shouted, and 
clapped their hands for joy. They now entered into a brisk 
trade with us, and we had as much as we could do to pile away 
the pigs, and fish, and fruit which we obtained from them. 

We spent several days with these savages, and then got un- 
der way, sailing through the lagoon to the eastward. I sound- 
ed the passage in the Invincible, and the vessel followed under 
easy sail. The water was deep enough for ships of the lar- 
gest class. In some places we could see the bottom quite 
plainly, and in others there were dangerous coral patches of 
small extent, with only five or ten feet of water upon them. 
On the right were presented to view the verdant and enchant- 
ing hills and dales of Marso, and on the left lay the chain of 
fairy coral isles, covered with cocoanut-groves, that shaded 
bamboo villages of considerable size. One might have ima- 
gined that we were sailing up some beautiful river, had it not 
been for the distant roar of the ocean, as it tumbled in white 
foam and green combers upon the outer barrier that connected 
me islets 

Turning a point on Marso, I discovered a fine bay, and saw 
a savage striding along the beach, with two little pigs trotting 
after him like dogs. He halted, held up his carbo-gourd, took 
one bite from a stick of sugar-cane, and held up the rest for us 
to come and take. I landed ; the savage gave me a piece of 
areca-nut rolled in betle-leaf, which I put into my mouth as he 
handed me his carbo-gourd. In it was inserted a highly-orna- 
mented human ulna, the end of which was sloped off so as to 
answer the purpose of a spoon. At first I shrunk back, but 
knowing that the savage would take it as an insult, I deposited 
some " chinam" (lime) in my mouth from the end of the ulna, 
and chewed away, much to the gratification of the savage, 
whom I presented with some beads and departed, while he 
threw sugar-cane into the Invincible as a present for the crew. 

As we proceeded along, the population became more dense 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 167 

and some of the small islands were literally covered with wig- 
wams. Hundreds of canoes, filled with bold and daring sava- 
ges, all well armed, came off to trade, and we hove to several 
times for the purpose of trading. Near dark we anchored in 
front of a large village, and heard the tum-tums beating, and 
saw the savages hurrying about in all directions. We triced 
up the boarding nettings and prepared for defence. 

The next morning, forty-seven canoes, filled with warriors, 
came and surrounded us, shouting and hooting so that we 
could scarcely hear each other speak. They beat loudly upon 
tum-tums, which they had brought in their canoes, and were 
evidently great warriors, and only respected those who were 
like themselves. We replied with three loud cheers and a 
grand flourish on our drums, which seemed to convince them 
that we were warriors, and not terrified at their grand array. 
The chief or king, whose name was Molarpu, now made over- 
tures of peace, and we entered into a brisk trade as usual. 
So excited were the savages, that, in their eagerness to trade, 
many of them, who were unable to reach the stern of the ves- 
sel in their canoes, owing to the dense raft that surrounded us, 
actually leaped overboard and swam alongside, with pigs and 
fruit in their hands, which they begged us to take. In the 
midst of the trade, a large white shark swam under the stern, 
and we harpooned him, much to the surprise of the savages, 
who did not appear afraid, of such fish. 

The next day we landed in the squadron, and were received 
by Molarpu and a host of well-armed savages. The principal 
villages are situated upon the islets and the plantations of edi- 
ble roots upon the main ; so that upon the shores of Marso 
we saw few or no villages. The natives, being an active, war- 
like people, divided into numerous tribes, ruled by independent 
chiefs, who sometimes wage war upon each other, find that, 
by building their villages upon the islets, they save the trouble 
of marking boundaries, and secure themselves from a coup-de- 
main. 

We remained here long enough to become quite intimate 
with the natives, and they ventured off to trade unarmed. 
One pleasant morning a fleet of canoes surrounded us ; they 
were filled with girls and young women, who were unarmed, 
and did not seem to be Amazons, for their countenances were 



168 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

cheerful and buoyant, and a pleasant smile played upon their 
lips, just marked enough to exhibit the ivory, and convince 
any one that they were in the heyday of youth. They pad- 
dled around, looking up in wonder at the lofty spars, and inti- 
mated a desire to inspect more closely the wonderful " war- 
canoe." The crew most gallantly opened the port and invited 
the "ladies" on board. A few cautiously ventured ; and, hav- 
ing satisfied themselves that there was no danger of falling 
into " trap-doors," the host soon followed, and we gallanted 
them around the deck to show them the curiosities. They 
were surprised, and wondered much at all they saw ; but the 
engrossing object of their particular attention was the " white 
gods from the moon." We generously granted them permis- 
sion to examine us and gaze at our persons as much as they 
chose. To contribute as much as possible to their entertain- 
ment, the Doctor (cook) mounted the forecastle hatch, with 
his fiddle in hand, and then to a lively tune the crew danced 
and sung that exquisite negro melody, 

"Turn about, wheel about, do just so, 
Every time I turn about I jump Jim Crow." 

A sailor danced a hornpipe, and the Doctor wound up with a 
real " Old Virginia" break-down. 

The "ladies" roared in ecstasies, and said they also knew 
how to dance. They amused us by chanting a peculiar song, 
while half a dozen of them performed a comical and exciting 
pantomime running dance, marking time by clapping their 
hands. Their agility, as exhibited in the difficult and passion- 
ate attitudes of their bodies and limbs, showed a vigour and 
suppleness possessed only by the children of nature in a de- 
lightful climate. When the dance was ended, we placed a 
string of beads around the neck of each of the performers, and 
presented them three large coloured engravings ; one was a 
likeness of Andrew Jackson on horseback, the second repre- 
sented the United States frigate Brandywine, and the third 
was a head of the Saviour. They looked at these intently, 
felt them with their hands, and held them up to the light ; and 
we explained to them that the first was our king, the second 
his war-canoe, which was so big that if it ran against their isl- 
and it would sink it at once, and raise a tempest of thunder 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 169 

and lightning ; the third the Great Spirit, who resided in the 
sun. All this was Greek to them ; they hung the handsome 
things, which they could appreciate better, upon their breasts, 
and departed, much pleased with their reception and enter- 
tainment. 

While cruising in Morrell's Lagoon, we fared sumptuously. 
The deck was literally heaped with fruit and vegetables of all 
kinds, and we had a large pen filled with pigs, who now and 
then amused us with a fight and its running chorus of squeals. 

Some days we had a cocoanut " blow-out," as the crew called 
placing a chopping-block and sharp hatchet beside a heap of 
nuts, while all hands cut and drank away. On new-year's 
day we killed twenty pigs, and had a " sea-pie." The steward 
said the pigs would spoil if they were hung in the light of the 
moon, and so we covered them with canvass. 

The natives of Marso are a stout and well-built people, of 
a dark copper colour. They are bold, active, persevering, and 
industrious. They are naturally warlike, and are powerful en- 
emies. Their hair, which is crisp and approaches wool, is 
neatly combed and tied behind, and some of the young men 
paint it red and ornament it with flowers. They wear neck- 
laces of hogs' teeth and strings of shell beads, or wampum, 
around their waists. The old chiefs wear a narrow red sash 
of cocoa cloth wound round the waist. The canoes of Marso 
are constructed with great skill and strength. They are very 
fleet, and capable of standing a rough sea. The natives are 
the most daring and skilful navigators of Australasia. The 
canoes vary in size, and are intended for different purposes ; 
one kind for paddling, a second for sailing, and a third as a 
family canoe. The model of the hull in all is the same ; the 
first is the simple canoe, with platform and outrigger ; the 
second has a mast and sail ; the third is the same as the latter, 
except that the platform is arched over with a cover like a 
farmer's wagon. I have seen whole families in the latter ca- 
noes, sailing along the coast with culinary utensils on board. 

The following drawing represents the paddling canoe, with 
mast inserted and under full sail. It is thirty feet or more 
long, and scooped and tapered neatly out of a single log. The 
sides are raised with a board, seized on with ratan, and the 
seams are payed with gum, while at the stem and stern is 

P 



170 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

neatly fitted on a tapering prow. When not under sail, it is 
propelled with the ordinary paddle, but sometimes the natives 
use long paddles, fastened to the gunwales with ratan and 
pulled like oars. The sail is made of mats, and can be re- 
duced to any size by lowering away the halliards and rolling 



up the bottom. The chief generally sits upon the platform 
and trims the canoe at pleasure, by sitting nearer to, or farther 
away from, the hull. 

When it rains, if the natives happen to be upon the water in 
their canoes, they hold fan-palm mats over their heads. 

The opposite drawing represents the war implements and 
utensils of Marso. 

No. 1 is an obsidian spear ; the shaft is from five to eight 
feet long, and is tipped with an obsidian or volcanic-glass blade 
that is as sharp as steel. 

No. 2 is an obsidian dirk and sheath. 

No. 3 is an obsidian tomahawk. These three are deadly 
and murderous implements. 

No. 4 is an adze, tipped with a piece of hard shell. 

No. 5 is a paddle, made of a species of rosewood. 

No. 6 is a war tum-tum. It is a large log of wood hollowed 
out, and is sounded by beating near the mouth on top. 

No. 7 is a carbo-gourd with a stick inserted. 

No. 8 is a scoop-net. 

No. 9 is a fish-hook ; the shaft of pearl-shell and the point of 
tortoise-shell. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 

1 



171 




172 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

No. 10 is a comb. 

No. 11 is a red earthen cooking-pot. 

No. 12 is a wooden pillow. 

No. 13 is a wooden sago-bowl. 

No. 14 is a red earthen drinking-jug, holding from two to 
three gallons. 

No. 15 is a red earthen jar, covered with wicker-work. It 
holds one barrel of water. 

No. 16 is a family eating-vessel, made of wood. 

The natives of Marso count from one to ten as follows : 1, 
See ; 2, Ma-ruer ; 3, Tollo ; 4, E-ar ; 5, Leme ; 6, Ou-no ; 7, 
Andru-tollo ; 8, Andru-ruer ; 9, Andru see ; 10, Songule. 

Having bid farewell to Molarpu and his people, we got under 
weigh and steered to the eastward in the lagoon. The scenery- 
increased in loveliness, and the savages became more numer- 
ous and warlike as we advanced. There was no retreating in 
case of attack ; our only hope was in fighting it out. We 
had all eyes open and every man on deck. In each top were 
stationed armed men, and the muskets were ranged fore and aft. 

As we sailed along, small parties of savages put off in ca- 
noes at different places, and called most lustily for us to stop 
and trade. A brisk breeze sprang up, and we glided along, 
paying no attention to their shouts. They determined that we 
should not escape, and commenced a chase, their numbers 
continually increasing by the addition of small parties who 
came off to swell the mass as they were in full pursuit. I pre- 
sume that the flotilla numbered one hundred canoes, and con- 
tained at least one thousand warriors. Onward they came, 
pressing upon us and skimming over the lagoon under full sail, 
and all paddles moving with the rushing sound of a sirocco. 
As the wind slackened, and they closed in, we saw great bun- 
dles of obsidian spears lying upon the outriggers ; and in the 
hair of the warriors, in place of a comb, was stuck the mur- 
derous obsidian dirk or stiletto. They came shouting and 
screeching in wild and terrific confusion. The din and uproar 
of voices was truly appalling, and the orders of the captain 
could scarcely be heard, even through the trumpet. We soon 
saw that it was impossible for us to escape, and we knew not 
whether the savages were hostile or friendly ; we noticed with 
some encouragement that they did not chant the war-song. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 173 

We clewed up the sails and hove to with our broadside upon 
the fleet. " Fore and main-top, ahoy !" called the captain. 

11 Halloo !" 

" Shoot the first savage who threatens to throw a spear !" 

" Ay, ay, sir !" 

The savages now surrounded us on all sides, and climbed up 
the bulwark to leap on board. Hundreds of their heads peered 
over the rail and were checked by the netting. 

"Admit not one native on board!" shouted the captain. 
" Show them your pikes and drive them astern !" 

In a moment the glittering blades of the pikes were aimed 
at their heads ; they stood to parley ; we threatened to run 
them through, and commanded them to embark in their ca- 
noes, and go to the stern if they wanted to trade. 

The din of voices ceased; they leaped into their canoes and 
formed a raft round our stern, all gazing in silent wonde, and 

amazement. W rose and addressed them. The captain 

held out his carbo-gourd, and a war-canoe came close to the 
stern. Upon its platform stood Rugurar, the king of the host. 
His aspect was commanding, his age about sixty ; he was six 
feet four inches high, and in all respects a model of manly 
beauty; he held out his carbo-gourd and delivered the "white 
king" a long harangue, in a loud, harsh voice. The natives 
listened in perfect and respectful silence. The attitude of the 
savage orator was a fit one for the sculptor ; his grave coun- 
tenance, his energetic gesticulation, his colossal form, his 
rounded and muscular limbs, his heaving breast, with the mas- 
sive volcanic blade that stuck in his hair, and a height that 
towered above all his followers, made him truly an imposing 
character. 

The two kings interchanged presents and betle, and a per- 
petual treaty of peace and commerce was immediately ratified. 
The savages shouted for joy, and, amid a great confusion of 
tongues, worse, I am sure, than that of Babel, a brisk trade was 
entered into. We anchored in front of the town of Rugurar. 
At night the sound of buccinums echoed over the lagoon and 
fell upon the ear, while bale-fires w T ere seen burning in all di- 
rections, and now and then we heard the distant shouts of sav- 
age voices. 

P2 



174 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER XXI. 

In the morning a large fleet of canoes, filled with savages, 
advanced from the town. They came paddling with slow and 
measured stroke, as if performing some funeral rite, chanting 
a peculiar song, with a chorus, accompanied by the rapping of 
paddles against the sides of their canoes, and by the beat of the 
tum-tum and the blast of the buccinum, making a harsh and 
monotonous discord of sounds. 

The fleet was led by Rugurar in person, who stood upon the 
platform of his war-canoe, which advanced slowly to the stern, 
where he presented the "white king" hogs and fruits of all 
kinds, repeating with his harsh voice, " Cow-wash !" (present). 
He came on board the vessel accompanied by some of his war- 
riors ; stalking about the deck, he looked like a giant among 
pigmies. His warriors laughed at the curious things they saw, 
and wondered at everything on board ; but Rugurar seemed a 
perfect stoic, and suffered nothing to change his countenance. 
"We fired a rifle-ball through a target ; he exhibited not a par- 
ticle of fear, though his warriors were much alarmed. We 
made him presents, and he passed them all into his canoe, ex- 
cept an axe and a looking-glass, which he kept in his hands. 

The next day the Great Medicine and myself embarked with 
Rugurar in his war-canoe, and he conducted us to his fret- 
work palace, where we were kindly received by the assembled 
chiefs, who were seated upon mats. Men, women, and chil- 
dren followed us through the town, and a mob now stood peep- 
ing in at the doorways, all anxious to get a sight of " white 
men." On our return through the town, we halted and gave 
the chiefs beads to distribute among the populace. Once in 
possession of so much wealth, their cupidity was excited, and, 
distributing only a part, they kept the rest for themselves. 
The populace became exasperated, and appealed to us ; but we 
thought proper to adhere to the side of Rugurar and his war- 
riors. Sharp words ensued, and the affair ended in a savage 
turmoil. It appeared that there were opposite parties here, 
and some of the petty chiefs were ever ready to take advan- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 175 

tage"of any outbreak, that they might thereby advance them- 
selves into power. The populace, headed by these refractory 
chiefs, began to arm themselves with spears and clubs, and 
threaten our lives. One savage laid violent hands upon 

W , who drew his pistol upon him. At this moment Ru- 

gurar and his warriors, all armed with spears, came to our 
rescue. They cut and slashed to the right and left, and 
mowed their way through the mob, gashing one savage se- 
verely in the head and wounding several others. Rugurar 
conducted us to the beach, and, embarking in his canoe, re- 
turned us safe on board the vessel, and received many pres- 
ents for having saved our lives. 

At twilight we heard a great uproar upon the island of Ru- 
gurar ; voices chanted the war-yell, and tum-tums and buc- 
cinums sounded throughout its length and breadth. A solitary 
canoe put off, and, paddled swiftly by brawny arms, soon came 
alongside, containing four of the warriors who had been instru- 
mental in saving our lives. They said that Rugurar had sent 
them, posthaste, to ask our aid in reducing his rebellious sub- 
jects, whom he was now combating in person, and that three 
of the rebel chiefs had already been slain. The captain sent 
word to the king, his ally, that he would come to his aid im- 
mediately, and if the populace did not return to their allegi- 
ance, he would blow them all off the island ! 

" Lively, boys, walk up the anchor !" shouted the captain. 

We were soon under way, and with jib and fore-topsail 
sailed close to the town, mooring with a spring upon the cable 
broadside on. 

" Fire a blank eighteen!" The gun sounded over the waters, 
and the hubbub ceased on shore for a few moments, when it 
was again resumed as loudly as ever, and the strife of con- 
tending parties seemed desperate and dreadful. The captain 
ordered a blank broadside to be fired. The cannon roared and 
bellowed over the island and lagoon, while the darkness was 
illuminated by a raining-rocket thrown over the town, and by 
a blazing blue and red light upon each royal-yard. The war- 
yell ceased, and everything on shore was hushed into a death- 
like stillness ! 

The next morning Rugurar and his warriors came off to the 
vessel ; he thanked us for having caused a tempest of " thun- 



176 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

der and lightning," and for making the " stars fall," so as to 
frighten his people into submission. His victory had been 
complete ; several of the rebels had been put to death, and 
their families banished to the main. We could now go on 
shore in safety. We saw the banished families, with their 
household utensils, embarking in canoes and steering for 
Marso. We landed at the town, and were looked upon by the 
natives as great warriors. The women seemed particularly 
charmed with our appearance, and feasted the sailors with de- 
licious fruit, and decked their heads with garlands of beautiful 
flowers. Rugurar's tall and stately daughter presented to the 
great " white king" (the captain) a plaintive Indian dove, in 
token of her affection. 

The next day we got under weigh, sailing through the la- 
goon to the eastward. In the afternoon we anchored, and 
were soon surrounded by savages as usual. Two of them 
quarrelled, and one threatened to spear the other ; the captain 
checked them, and said he was king here, and would not al- 
low his children to destroy each other. The savages, having 
understood from one of the sailors that a cannon was one of 
our spears, wondered greatly how we could throw it, since it 
was so heavy that they could not lift it. We replied that the 
children of the moon were strong, and we would show them. 
Accordingly, we fired it off; they fled for the shore with haste 
and terror. 

The next morning we got under way, and found that the 
lagoon ended in a deep bay. We discovered a passage, 
through which we sailed, and soon found ourselves upon the 
heaving ocean, outside of the barrier. Several canoes came 
after us, and we threw them tow-lines over the stern. The 
wind freshened ; our headway increased ; they came violently 
in contact; the stern ornament of one was knocked off; and 
another had its outrigger splintered, winch caused it to swamp. 
The natives jumped overboard, baled it out, got in again, and 
paddled for the shore, apparently considering it mere sport 
and pastime, as they laughed heartily at the mishap. We sail- 
ed to the eastward, across a strait that divides the east end of 
Marso from several primitive islands of great beauty. Pass- 
ing close to the south point of one of these islands, under rapid 
headway, we soon hauled to the northward, for the purpose of 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 177 

entering what seemed to be a large bay, with cocoanut groves 
at its foot. The wind fell away into a dead calm, and we 
floated like a log upon the mirror-like surface of the wa- 
ter. A small fleet of canoes had pursued us across the strait ; 
but, not being able to overtake us, they landed upon the last- 
mentioned point, from which five canoes now put off and came 
alongside. They were large, and built in the most substantial 
manner, containing each fifteen athletic savages, all well arm- 
ed. They seemed to be a different race from the natives of 
Morrell's Lagoon, and were blacker, and had a more savage 
appearance. They were expert and practised seamen, the pi- 
rates of the Admiralty Islands, the masters of the sea, and 
were given to predatory enterprises. The chief, or grand ad- 
miral, of this tribe of pirates was named Narcarlumo ; he sat 
upon a mat on the platform of his canoe, like the grand Turk, 
and eyed us keenly as he floated near the stern of the vessel ; 
he seemed to be about fifty years old, and was of the medium 
stature ; his upper lip was gashed and drawn on one side ; his 
left leg, from the knee to the ankle, was much swollen, and 
appeared to have been affected with the leprosy, for the skin 
had scaled off and left it nearly white, contrasting strongly 
with his black body ; one side of the calf was ulcered, putrid, 
and presented a most disgusting sight. A more diabolical- 
looking creature, in the human form, it is impossible to ima- 
gine. When he spoke, it was with an energetic, shrill, and 
commanding voice. His followers feared his very nod, and 
rendered the most submissive obedience to all his threatening 
commands. 

One small canoe hove in sight ahead, coming from the co- 
coa groves. With my telescope upon the flying-jib boom I 
saw that it was paddled by four fine-looking young men, whose 
bodies were nearly white, or, rather, of a sun-burned red, while 
their hair was long and black, and flowed gracefully upon their 
shoulders. When they had arrived within hailing distance, 
they halted and made friendly signs, which we answered, and 
invited them to come alongside. They held the palms of their 
hands towards the point whence Narcarlumo had come, and 
motioned that they were unarmed, and invited us to come and 
see them at their homes, in the distant cocoa groves, to which 
they pointed. They were the finest-looking young men we 



178 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

had seen, and belonged to quite a different race from the black 
devils under our stern. 

Now we were startled by the shrill voice of Narcarlumo, 
which sounded like a death-knell in our ears, as he commanded 
his warriors ! Out shot from our stern four of the canoes, pro- 
pelled by the powerful arms of the " black warriors," who 
dashed and careered along over the placid surface of the ocean 
in full chase of the " white men !" who took to their paddles 
and fled towards the cocoa groves. The pursuers uttered the 
war-yell ! the pursued party became alarmed, and one of them, 
unfortunately, lost his paddle overboard ; their course now be- 
came sinuous, and their enemies gained upon them rapidly ! 
Narcarlumo remained near the vessel, a calm spectator of the 
chase. The captain commanded him to call back his war- 
riors ; he refused to obey, and looked daggers at us, while he 
commanded his paddlers to pull off from the vessel. We lev- 
elled a swivel at him, and raked his canoe with grapeshot ; 
two of his warriors fell dead at their paddles, and the rest pull- 
ed away in double-quick time. By this time the " white men" 
were nearly run down by their savage and bloodthirsty ene- 
mies. We could not sail to their assistance, for it was a dead 
calm, and we were afraid to fire at the pursuers, for fear we 
would kill the pursued. A crisis had now arrived, and, deter- 
mining to risk everything, we fired a cannon-ball, which struck 
the water near the contending savages. It served to check their 
progress for a moment ; but they again rallied, and charged 
upon their defenceless victims. The poor young men uttered 
a shriek of despair and leaped into the sea. The black war- 
riors balanced their spears and darted them into the bodies of 
their unresisting and supplicating victims, as they swam in the 
water. They thrust the volcanic blades into their eyes and 
mouths, and plunged them into their breasts ! The poor young 
men rent the air with cries of agony ! The black fiends haul- 
ed the bleeding and mutilated corpse of a victim upon the plat- 
form of each canoe, and then paddled with all speed for the 
point whence they had come, for the purpose of joining Nar- 
carlumo, who reconnoitred alongshore. We fired a chain- 
shot from the long-nine, which cut in two one of the canoes, 
killed one warrior, and caused the corpse upon the platform to 
roll overboard and sink, while the rest of the warriors swam 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 179 

on board the remaining canoes, and were soon out of reach of 
our shot. The canoe belonging to the young men was left 
floating upon the ocean. 

At night we saw fires upon the point, and concluded that the 
black fiends were roasting their victims. The crew sat in 
solemn smoking council upon the forecastle, summing up the 
"day's work." Not a breath of air came to disperse the little 
white cloud of tobacco smoke that hovered ominously over 
them and curled up the fore-stay. The captain sat upon the 
quarter, wrapped in his cloak of " many storms,'' smoking a 
long pipe, the bowl of which stretched over the water like a 
signal-lantern, in the direction of the point, while his counte- 
nance, upon a close inspection, wore the aspect of boding 
revery. 

The next morning we had a fine breeze, and sailed across 
the strait for the east end of Marso, where we discovered a 
large and deep bay, which I shall name Root Bay, after my 
friend R. C. Root, of New- York ; and the strait which lies be- 
tween the east end of Marso and the group of islands I name 
Root Strait. 

We sailed up the bay, and hove to near the sand-beach at its 
foot, which was shaded with beautiful groves of cocoanut and 
other trees, beneath which were scattered well-built houses. 
Hundreds of natives ran along the beach and launched their 
canoes, singing and rejoicing, as if our approach had been hail- 
ed as a jubilee. We were soon surrounded by canoes, filled 
with men, women, and children, who came off unarmed and 
without the least hesitation. They were well formed, and of 
lighter colour than those belonging to the tribe of Narcarlumo. 
They were very friendly, and invited us on shore ; we made 
them many presents, and landed. The town was regularly laid 
out, and we were hospitably entertained among the families in 
the different wigwams. These natives seemed to lead a peace- 
able life, and earned a subsistence by agriculture ; their homes 
were comfortable; all that they wanted could be procured 
with but little labour and no care ; they enjoyed themselves 
in the domestic circle, and were free from the vexations of ar- 
tificial life ; they were not a maritime people ; their canoes 
were slightly built, and they only ventured out in them a short 
distance from the beach ; they could not cruise about the strait 



180 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

and ocean like the black warriors. In short, they seemed to 
aim merely at living in peace without molesting their neigh- 
bours. 

We were amused with the dexterity and agility of the youth 
of both sexes. A large bamboo platform stood in the centre 
of the village. One boy turned a somerset from it and struck 
upon his feet on the ground. A stout youth stood on his 
hands, and walked upon them across the platform, with his 
feet dangling in the air and cutting ludicrous antics. In this 
feat he was followed by several buxom girls, shouting and 
laughing, and showing their teeth. Their spirits were light 
and buoyant as the air. 

We were about returning to the vessel, when we were sur- 
prised at seeing the men run down to the water, take up their 
canoes and carry them into the village, while all the natives 
shouted, " Salliow !" and the tum-tums and buccinums sounded 
throughout the village. The women and children, running up, 
took us by the hands and wanted to hurry us away to the rear 
of the houses, where they promised to take good care of us ! 
We inquired what was the matter; they pointed towards the 
mouth of the bay and hallooed, " Narcarlumo, Salliow !" We 
saw approaching a black line of canoes into the bay, turning 
its north point. We declined the simple-hearted offer of the 
women, hurried into the squadron, and were soon on board the 
vessel, where we cleared away for action, and tacked off and 
on under easy sail. Not a native or canoe could now be seen 
at the town ; and one might have supposed that it was deserted, 
were it not for the sound of the tum-tums and buccinums. 
Propelled by numerous paddles, the fleet advanced rapidly, fol- 
lowing the trend of the north shore. As they drew near we 
saw that they were filled with black warriors, all well armed. 
Narcarlumo was not there in person. The van was led by his 
vice-admiral, the giant and noble-looking Salliow, who sat in 
state upon the platform of his canoe ; on his head he wore a 
shark skin helmet, and on his breast a cuirass of the same ma- 
terial. He passed by without deigning to notice us; circling 
round between us and the town, he formed his fleet into three 
parallel lines, with consummate skill and practised seaman- 
ship. His canoe advanced alone, and when within fifty feet 
of the beach, in front of the town, it halted. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 181 

Salliow rose up to his full height, with a war-club in his 
hand ; he leaned backward, cast back the haughty head of a 
potentate, and threw himself into a gladiatorial attitude, which 
he maintained for a few moments, perfectly motionless, look- 
ing not unlike a bronzed or " black statue." He stood with his 
face towards the town, and was a fit subject for the sculptor. 
Presently the statue moved its arm, and whirled the war-club 
three times round its head, hollooing loudly, when it again re- 
sumed its former attitude. Ten chiefs, armed with spears and 
shields, came from the town, and, marching down the beach, 
halted in front of the black statue, with whom they held a par- 
ley, while the tum-tums ceased sounding, and the savages who 
manned the fleet listened in profound silence. 

The parley soon ended, the chiefs marched back to the 
town, the tum-tums again sounded, and the black statue be- 
came seated, as his canoe approached us, followed by the 
fleet, in pursuit of the vessel. We tacked ship ; they did the 
same : we tacked again ; so did they. 

The captain seized a war-club, leaped upon the trunk, whirl- 
ed it three times round his head, threw it down, seized his 
speaking-trumpet, and roared a threatening message, that told 
the statue, if he did not immediately leave the bay, he and his 
warriors would be instantly blown to h — 1, where they of right 
belonged. The statue spoke not ; he looked defiance ; nodded 
his head, shook his helmet, and departed, followed by the 
fleet. No sooner had they disappeared round the south point 
of the bay than the tum-tums ceased sounding, and the whole 
town was in motion. We anchored near the beach. The na- 
tives again launched their canoes, and men, women, and chil- 
dren surrounded the vessel, singing and dancing for joy at our 
deliverance from the hands of the pirates, who wanted them 
to join in an attack upon the vessel, and promised them half 
the booty. 

The next day we were on shore again ; and, finding that the 
" ladies" were passionately fond of beads, we presented them 
each a string. 

At daybreak the following morning we got under way and 
sailed out of the bay. Steering to the southward, we passed 
outside of a small island, and coasted the east shore of Marso. 
A line of reefs stretched along off shore, and on the beach we 

Q 



182 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

saw several large villages, built upon spiles over the water. 
A vast fleet of canoes, filled with savages, came off, all well 
armed. They were friendly, and one canoe was the largest 
we had yet seen ; it must have been at least one hundred feet 
long, with a proportional breadth of beam. We purchased a 
large green turtle. At night we ran inside the reefs and an- 
chored ; the next morning we navigated along the south coast 
between dangerous coral reefs. 

The scenery upon the land was charming and picturesque ; 
it rose in gradual slopes up to elevated mountains, diversified 
with hills and vales and sequestered dells, covered with the 
varied verdure of the tropics. Truly, the most beautiful and 
healthy portions of the globe are possessed by savages. 

Bidding farewell to Marso, we steered S.E. with a cracking 
breeze, passed several small islands off the starboard beam, 
and discovered breakers ahead, which caused us to haul our 
wind to E. by S. 

At 2 P.M. Marso was out of sight, and eight beautiful isl- 
ands bore off the larboard beam. All charts of this region are 
utterly worthless, being apparently drawn by guesswork ! 

Steering E. and E. by N., the next morning two lovely isl- 
ands lay off the larboard beam ; one was quite large. We lay 
becalmed near them, and I cannot say whether they are inhab- 
ited or not. 

We killed the turtle we had bought, and he was made into 
soup for all hands. One of our wags stuck his shell in front 
of the galley, and marked upon it with chalk, " Turtle-soup at 
eight bells, price two shillings per bowl." 

The next day we arrived at the north side of the Portland 
Islands. I counted six verdant secondary islands, extending 
along east and west, connected by coral reefs and sand-spits. 
Savages came alongside in canoes ; they were unarmed, and 
were very friendly, and presented us baked bread-fruit, smi- 
ling and laughing continually. They were a comical set, and 
shook hands with the Doctor, whom they took for a brother. 
We roared out fore and aft, and the savages followed suit. 

On the following day we sailed close to the northwest end 
of Pelego and coasted its west shore, passing inside of a 
secondary island which was covered with cocoanut-trees. 
I name the latter Inman Island, after John Inman, Esq., of 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 183 

New- York. Natives came alongside in considerable numbers. 
They were friendly, and unarmed, with the exception of a few 
fishing-spears. They were a tall, slim, well-proportioned, jet 
black race ; their expression was mild and comical, their hair 
woolly, and shaved close in particular spots, which were paint- 
ed white, and gave them a most singular appearance, not un- 
like Sancho Panza with a wash-bowl helmet upon his head. 
They were a different race and spoke a different language from 
the natives of Marso. At night we lay upon the gently-swell- 
ing bosom of the ocean, in a dead calm, with the sails hanging 
heavily against the masts. 

Thus the vessel lay, 
Rolling the time away, 
Awaiting the breeze of day, 
To get steerage-way. 

In the morning we were opposite the southwest end of Pe- 
lego, and coasting along its southern shore to the eastward. A 
large fleet of canoes put off and came alongside, filled with sav- 
ages. They seemed to be friendly ; still, they were all well 
armed, and, climbing over the bulwarks, leaped on deck. We 
did not like the appearance of things, and forthwith command- 
ed them to return into their canoes. Some obeyed at once, 
and others stood to parley, as if they did not understand what 
we meant. The blades of our pikes taught them ; they em- 
barked into their canoes and shoved off angrily, as if they felt 
insulted. The captain harangued them, and told them that 
when they visited ships they must come unarmed, and bring 
fruit to sell. They gazed at us in mute wonder, and when we 
had left them some distance astern, they hooted loudly, rapped 
the blades of their paddles violently against the sides of their 
canoes, and paddled swiftly for the shore, while we fired a 
blank volley of musketry over their heads. The land was el- 
evated and formed into hillocks. It was covered with forests, 
except here and there, where the hills and vales were well 
cultivated with beautiful plantations of edible roots. The 
scene presented to view was one of great agricultural beauty 
and picturesque loveliness. The natives were undoubtedly an 
industrious and enterprising set of people ; much happier and 
better off than the mass of civilized men. I remarked that 
their canoes were whitewashed, and that they were very par- 



184 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



ticular in keeping them clean ; if a speck of dirt got on the out- 
side, they immediately washed it off. The canoes were con- 
structed differently from any that we had seen ; they were per- 
fect gems ; the bow and stern represented the neck and beak 
of a bird, and were painted red. They were neat and deli- 
cate, but were not adapted for cruising upon the ocean, like the 
canoes of Marso. The following drawing represents the ca- 
noe of Pelego. 




The next day we were opposite Byron Strait, which seemed 
to be filled up with verdant islets, connected by coral reefs, 
among which we wound our way. Natives came off with co- 
coanuts and golopos. They used a paddle which was singular 
in its shape, and constructed of hard, black wood ; one side of 
the blade was concave and the other convex, so that it press- 
ed against the water, and was withdrawn on the same princi- 
ple as a duck's foot. 

The next day we coasted the south side of Emeno, steering 
E. half S., and passing through a strait, nine miles broad, be- 
tween Sandwich Island and the main. The coast of Emeno 
here hollows in towards the north, and is formed of numerous 
jutting, bluff promontories, composed of porous lava rock, 
their summits covered with verdure, their sides denuded, and 
their bases washed by the sea into caverns. Between each of 
these promontories lie nestled a beautiful little bay, with 
white sand-beach, fringed with picturesque groves of cocoanut 
and palm trees. We anchored at the foot of one of these rural 
and romantic bays. Several wigwams were scattered about 
among the fragrant groves, but not one canoe could be seen ; 
the natives seemed to be entirely landsmen. Presently five 
savages emerged from the thicket, and stood upon the beach, 
gazing at us in speechless wonder. They were large, good- 
looking, fine-proportioned black men. At length they halloo- 
ed, and made friendly signs, by waving green brandies; we 
invited them to come on board; they disappeared in the woods. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 185 

Voices rang through the forest joyfully, and a host of savages, 
composed of both sexes, all ages and sizes, came pouring out 
upon the beach, carrying bamboo logs and catamarans, which 
they launched into the water and embarked for the vessel. 
They soon surrounded us, and were very friendly ; they were 
unarmed, and presented us fruit. Upon each catamaran sat 
three or four natives, but the mass swam upon bamboo floats 
or logs, one end of which was passed under the body. They 
were a fine-looking, docile set of people, but their colour was 
black and hair frizzly ; their heads were finely formed and 
their countenances expressive. They came on board the ves- 
sel, and were surprised at all they saw ; we made them pres- 
ents, and they invited us on shore. 

The next day we accepted their invitation, and were kindly 
received ; guided by them, we performed a tour in the interior, 
in search of sandal-wood. This country affords a fine and vir- 
gin field for the ornithologist, botanist, and mineralogist. 
When we returned to the village, the girls charmed us with a 
native air, played upon bamboo harps and Pandian pipes, ac- 
companied by their clear and shrill voices. One of them ran 
about with a cologne bottle, which had been presented to her, 
dangling upon her breast, and every now and then she request- 
ed some of the natives to smell the perfume. The captain 
presented the chiefs iron and cutlery, at which they were 
highly delighted. 

The next morning we weighed anchor. The natives swam 
off en masse, surrounded the vessel, and cried like schoolboys 
as they besought us not to go away. Many of the crew would 
have taken up their residence here, had they been permitted. 
The captain promised to call and see the natives again, so we 
bade them farewell and sailed out of the bay. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

We continued coasting Emeno to the east and south. At 
night a shoal bore ahead ; we steered outside of it, and again 
hauled in for the land. The next day we discovered a small 
island, in form resembling a diamond ; it was situated near the 
main, and I name it Diamond Island. 

Q2 



186 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

We coasted the main, steering E.S.E., and then S.E., and 
arrived opposite a great bay, the foot of which we could not 
see ; it might be a strait dividing Emeno. Natives came along- 
side ; they were stout, black men, resembling the African ne- 
gro, and evidently a different race from those last mentioned. 
Their canoes were mean affairs ; nothing more than rough, 
hollow logs, with floats attached. They were unarmed., and 
were very friendly, as well as inquisitive. They peeped 
through the sweep-holes and saw the crew moving about the 
deck. I shoved a looking-glass before one, and a native talked 
and gesticulated with great energy and enthusiasm to his own 
shadow ; he turned round to explain to his people how he had 
seen a man on board the same colour as themselves ; I pulled 
the glass away and the Doctor mounted the rail ; the native 
commenced talking to him, and took him to be the very man 
he had seen in the glass. 

The next day we crossed the mouth of the great bay, fol- 
lowing the trend of the land to the southeast. We encounter- 
ed sand-shoals and islets, and, sailing between them and the 
main, discovered a fine little bay, with its mouth protected by 
a shoal that ran half way across it. We entered it, and an- 
chored near the land, in ten fathoms water. I name it Wood- 
worth Bay, after Samuel Woodworth, the American poet. 
The shore was lined with a jungle of mangrove-trees, which 
is said to be durable wood for the construction of wharves. 
At the foot of the bay, in the rear of the jungle, rose a hill, the 
whole of which was well cultivated and destitute of trees. It 
presented the aspect of a beautiful garden, divided into com- 
partments by winding paths, while upon its summit stood sev- 
eral wigwams. 

During the night we saw fires burning in different directions. 

In the morning we were startled by a wild shout, but could 
see no natives. We manned the squadron and proceeded to 
the mangroves. In the tops of the trees were concealed an 
army of black warriors, well armed with spears, slings, and 
war-clubs. They shouted ; we replied, and entered into a 
parley, exhibiting various valuable trinkets, to entice them 
down. They sat dumb and motionless, like a congregation of 
affrighted monkeys. We stuck some trinkets upon the end of 
an oar and handed them up to one of the savages ; he received 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 187 

them tremblingly, and let his spear and club fall to the ground, 
while he gazed in amazement upon the trinkets in his hand, 
and held them up to the view of his companions, who marvel- 
led much at our friendship, and looked and pointed towards the 
sun, evidently supposing that we had come from that luminary. 
We nodded assent and departed, leaving them to sit in the 
tree-tops until they became tired. We explored a reef. In the 
morning we got under way and sailed out of the bay. Its 
mouth faces the N.N.W.,and, in sailing out, we passed over a 
shoal where we saw bottom and fish swimming. We coasted 
along to the south. 

This part of Emeno was mountainous and dotted with many 
beautiful valleys, covered with primitive forests of stately 
trees of various kinds, and watered with pure rippling mount- 
ain streams. The whole country was nearly in a state of na- 
ture ; the inhabitants are few and scattering. What a fine field 
for a settlement of white men ! 

The next day we entered Carteret Strait and crossed over 
to the east end of Bidera, to the south of York Island. The 
land rose, in a gentle-curving slope, into mountains, and was 
covered with verdant prairies, dotted with coppices and clumps 
of trees, and fringed with noble forests, presenting, all togeth- 
er, a most beautiful agricultural field. 

York Island may be said to be a towering mountain, covered 
with forests. Its southwest end is composed of a lofty clay 
cliff, which is denuded and gashed into chasms by the washing 
of mountain torrents during the prevalence of heavy rains. 
We sailed close along its west side to the northward. The 
land sloped down to a sand-beach, along which was scattered 
cocoanut-trees. We discovered a pretty little bay ; its mouth 
faced the southwest, and was sheltered by a little island that 
lay about a mile from its north point. It was a dead calm ; 
we swept the vessel in passing to the south of the islet, and 
anchored near its foot, in nine fathoms water, which was so 
pellucid that we could see the bottom very distinctly. 

The shore was composed of a white sand-beach, fringed 
with groves of cocoanut and other trees, and at the foot of the 
bay rose a lofty mountain, covered from its base to its sum- 
mit with a forest of stately trees of various kinds, the branches 
of which were matted together with great running vines. 



188 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Birds of beautiful plumage fluttered and sung; around us, add- 
ing enchantment to the magnificence of the scene, while a set- 
ting sun left a gloomy shade over the bay as it sunk behind 
the mountains of Bidera. The poetic sky and climate of Italy 
sinks into insignificance when compared to that of Tropical 
Australasia. 

The anchor-watch was set, and we retired to swing in our 
hammocks. 

The next day we embarked in the squadron and explored the 
bay. On its north side we discovered a creek of fresh water. 
The cocoanut-trees hung full of fruit, and upon the ground lay 
the decaying husks of the old nuts. We made an excursion 
into the interior of the forest in search of precious woods and 
medicinal plants, and saw many that were entirely new to us. 
We heard the howl of a dog or wolf, and saw many tracks of 
the wild hog. The soil was a rich black vegetable loam. 

All this island was ours by right of possession ; not a native 
could be seen, nor any signs of there ever having been any 
there. We climbed the cocoa-trees, feasted upon their deli- 
cious fruit, after which we cut down one tree. It fell into the 
water, and two huge green lizards ran down its stem. We 
jumped into the bay to enjoy a bath, and to search for shells. 
The temperature of the air and water was delightful, and it 
was with reluctance that we left our bath. 

The next day we struck the first blow towards a settlement. 
All hands landed with axes, and commenced cutting down the 
forest upon the base of the mountain. The falling crash of 
trees and the cracking of vines echoed over the peaceful bay. 
The next day the wood and water was on board, the decks 
washed down and rigging coiled neatly upon the belaying-pins. 
We had discovered a grove of wild orange-trees ; they were 
loaded with fine large fruit, which was as sour as lemons. 
We landed with tin cups, molasses, and a bucket. Into the lat- 
ter we squeezed the juice of oranges without number, filled it 
with water from the creek, poured in molasses, and stirred it 
well. Then we dipped our cups into the " lemonade," toasted 
sweethearts and wives, and sung a rude song of our own im- 
promptu composing. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 189 

Temperance ladies without money, 
We offer to you friendship's hand ; 
Come and drink the milk and honey* 
That flow o'er this beauteous land. 

After this we bathed, and then ran races up and down the 
beach ; bets ran high upon the contending parties, and night 
alone closed the sport. 

The next morning we got under way, and sailed along the 
north coast of Bidera to the westward. We encountered dan- 
gerous coral shoals, and sailed inside of two small islands, 
which were uninhabited. 

Next we discovered two handsome little islands, situated 
near the main. We anchored near their north side and landed 
upon them, shouting loudly, but saw no signs of natives. 
Crossing over to the mainland, we found a large basket in a 
cove ; it was sunk with stones in the water upon the beach, so 
that its upper rim stuck above the surface. Upon looking in- 
side, we saw that it contained a number of little fish sporting 
about. They were striped, with variegated coloured rings, and 
were the most beautiful and singular fish that we had seen. 
Their names we knew not; one seemed to be an Ostracion quad- 
ricornis, and the others probably belonged to the genus Chceto- 
don and Balisles. While looking at these singular specimens 
of the finny tribe, a fly lit upon the rim of the basket ; a little 
fish, with a long mouth, darted to the surface and ejected a drop 
of water with such force that it knocked the fly into the wa- 
ter, and before he could extricate himself the fish had swallow- 
ed him. 

In the morning we got under way, and sailed to the west- 
ward through coral reefs. The next day we entered Webster 
Bay, and anchored in Fairy Cove. 

The seeds that we planted on our former visit had all grown 
well except the Indian corn, only about one quarter of which 
had sprouted, for the seed was bad when we planted it. The 
pumpkins and melons had flourished Deyond our expectations. 
We hoed up all the weeds and put the garden in order, and 
watched our experiment in farming with great self-satisfac- 
tion. 

Nothing had been disturbed ; but the natives had evidently 

* This, of course, is a figurative expression for our molasses lemonade. 



190 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

been here during our absence, for we found the stumps of the 
trees painted with red hieroglyphics, as well as the trunk of 
the "little trees' grand-daddy," which was literally covered 
with wonderful and mysterious inscriptions ; and in one of its 
compartments lay a pile of stones and chips, all marked with 
red characters. In vain we endeavoured to decipher these 
symbols. 

The next day we heard the shouting of voices, and a party 
of savages emerged from the forest, stringing along the north- 
east shore, two by two, in solemn tread, chanting the " hog 
song," and preceded by two men carrying a hog upon a pole. 
Driving two crotched stakes into the beach, they hung the hog 
upon them, together with fruit of various kinds, and then the 
host made signs that they were a peace-offering to the deity, 
and invited us to come and take them. 

We generously accepted the offering and landed upon the 
beach ; whereupon the natives fled into the forest, while we 
deposited the hog and fruit in the boats, hung up trinkets of 
various kinds upon the stakes, and returned on board the 
vessel. 

At daybreak the next morning we embarked in the squadron, 
and proceeded out of the cove on an exploring cruise to the 
eastward. We discovered three pretty little islands, situated 
close together, and upon each was a village. We landed, and 
were hospitably entertained by the natives in their wigwams, 
which were shaded by banana, plantain, and cocoanut trees, 
all hanging full of golden fruit. We made the chiefs presents ; 
they brought us fruit, and invited us into their huts. The 
women were much more numerous than the men, and polyg- 
amy seemed quite fashionable. The children seemed hearty, 
and ran about at their leisure. 

In one wigwam a young woman was busy finishing a hand- 
some palm-leaf mat, upon which she invited me to sit while 
she trimmed the edges with a piece of obsidian and a block of 
wood. I presented her a pair of scissors, and taught her how 
much better they would trim the edge than her implements. 
She thanked me kindly, and went into ecstasies as she clip- 
ped the edge with the " magic instrument." When the mat 
was finished she presented it to me, and I gave her a string of 
" golden beads" to wear upon her neck. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 191 

It was with some difficulty that the captain mustered the 
crew and got them again on board the squadron. At 10 P.M. 
we arrived on board the vessel. 

During our absence the natives had been to the stakes and 
taken the trinkets. The next morning they sang the hog song 
nnd marched along the beach as before, and deposited another 
hog upon the stakes, which they invited us to come and take. 
We embarked in the squadron ; they now had more confi- 
dence in our friendship, and stood their ground with resolution, 
until we sallied out upon the beach, when their courage failed 
them, and they again fled. We followed the path that they 
took, and arrived at the foot of a wooded hill, up which we 
looked through a narrow avenue, fringed with underwood, 
above which bristled many large barbed spears, tipped with 
fish-bones. 

We hallooed for the natives to come out of their ambush ; 
they complied cautiously, and stood timidly in the path, hold- 
ing their large spears, and looking down upon us. The captain 
held out his carbo-gourd ; a chief rattled down the bank and ex- 
changed betle. We painted our faces and bodies red ; a treaty 
of peace was ratified ; the natives threw away their spears, and 
" shook hands all around," while they danced and laughed 
for joy as the captain made them presents. One of the crew 
played a tune upon the clarinet, much to the delight of these 
good-looking and friendly people. We took the hog, bade 
them farewell, and returned on board the vessel. 

The next morning we got under way, and were soon cruis- 
ing about among the dangerous reefs off Bidera. Now we 
danced around one with heavy combers upon it, now we tack- 
ed ship, now we hove to, now we squared away, and now we 
skimmed along one point free. 

" Shoal water ahead ! hard alee !" shouted the look-out from 
the mast-head. 

The vessel ran up in the wind's eye and struck upon a coral 
reef violently, causing the pots and kids to fly off* from the gal- 
ley, and nearly knocking every man from his feet. She stuck 
fast, with her bow upon a coral shoal, where the water was 
not more than six feet deep ; her stern was depressed, and 
there she lay, rolling with the swell. Luckily, the tide was 
rising ; we rolled the water-casks aft, rigged a spare topmast 



192 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

over the bow upon the reef, attached a heavy tackle to it, and 
brought the fall to the windlass, upon which we hove with all 
our might. The coral cracked, the vessel strained and slid 
off, safe and sound, with the sails all aback. Night was upon 
us ; we sailed in nearer to the land, and anchored in thirty- 
fathoms' water. 

At midnight I was aroused by the roaring of a tempest: half 
asleep, I leaped up, struck my head against the deck-timber, 
and rolled out of my hammock upon the floor. Thunder bel- 
lowed around us ; chain-lightning flashed down the companion- 
way, and the rain poured down in torrents. The vessel trem- 
bled, the chain surged round the windlass, and the anchor 
dragged. Not far from our stern lay a dangerous coral reef, 
and the sea rolled heavily in upon us ! 

" A-ll ha-n-d-s a-hoy!" 

We were soon upon deck, and saw that the vessel was dri- 
ving upon the reef! 

" Clear away the sheet-anchor !" shouted the captain : 
" life or death ! cut away the shank-painter !" 

A sailor seized an axe, the chain rushed through the hawse- 
hole : " Pay out ! pay out ! check her handsomely !" We now 
rode by two anchors and a long scope of chain. Close under 
the lee we saw white breakers, and heard them roaring and 
dashing upon the reef. 

By morning the tempest had abated, and it soon cleared en- 
tirely away, leaving no traces of the dismal night through 
which we had passed. We got under way and steered to the 
westward, passing outside of the islands and reefs that com- 
pose the Bay of Shoals. Discovering a chain of handsome 
secondary islands lying near the main, we sailed through a 
passage between two of them, and anchored in the lagoon be- 
tween them and Bidera. Upon one of the islands was situated 
a large town, shaded by cocoanut-trees ; its name was Car- 
wary. The next day many natives came off from it in canoes 
and traded with us. They were very friendly, and invited us 
on shore. 

On the following day we painted our faces, stuck parrot- 
feathers in our hair, and landed upon Carwary. We were re- 
ceived, in the most friendly manner, by a stout old man, who 
headed the populace ; his name was Nomer ; he was the king 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 193 

of Carwary and its dependances ; he conducted us to his tu- 
onger, in front of which, beneath the shade of palm-trees, we 
seated ourselves upon a large log. On other logs round about 
sat the chiefs and their families, while the mob stood up. A 
respectable-looking, tall old woman sat upon our left ; her 
name was Heydee ; we soon understood that she was the wife 
of Nomer and the mother of a large family. Three of her 
daughters and two sons sat beside her. 

As it was the custom of this tribe for great personages to 
exchange names when visiting each other, the sable king took 
the name of Cap-in Mor-el, which the savages around re- 
peated loudly and with great solemnity. The white king took 
the name of Nomer, which we repeated aloud with gravity 
equal to that of the natives. Then we shook hands all around, 
and made and received presents. 

A burly dame seized me by the hand and cried " Thomas !" 
I stared her in the face, but I had never seen her before ! She 
addressed me in the Bidera tongue : " My brother Letarancebo 
resides with Sambarlo ; he married the daughter of Peo-Leo ; 
four moons gone by, he visited Carwary, and told us about the 
Great Spirit and the great medicines, Thomas and Edward. I 
know you by his description of your person." 

I presented her a string of beads, and introduced her to the 
Medicine Edward, who held quite a long colloquy with her, to 
the great gratification of the multitude, who soon applied to us 
for medical and surgical aid ; and we were compelled to an- 
swer many technical questions about which we knew nothing 
at all, but upon which it would not do to show our ignorance. 
Our plasters had a wide circulation. 

We became quite intimate with these good people ; and the 
younger son of Nomer, whose name was Garry Garry, fre- 
quently accompanied us in the squadron on exploring expedi- 
tions, and slept on board of the vessel several nights. He was 
a fine fellow, and of great service to us in trading and open- 
ing a communication with the savages. He had a great desire 
to accompany us to the "moon" in the "god-ship." We 
promised to take him, and return him safe and sound in five 
moons. His father consented, but the heart of his mother 
failed her, and she could not part with him, for fear he would 
never return. 

R 



194 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

To the westward lay a remarkable little islet, rising in the 
form of a sugar-loaf, and covered with huts. There were not 
more than three trees upon it. The sailors called it " Bag- 
dad," but the native name was Carpo, and it was ruled by a 
stout, good-looking, jolly chief of the same name. We visited 
him at his village, and the next day he came with a fleet of 
canoes around the vessel, and presented us fruit and small 
clams in baskets. He came on board with his principal war- 
riors, and was much surprised at the sight of everything he 
saw. We struck the alarm-bell ; the warriors ran in terror to 
the stern, and one, in his fright, leaped overboard ! The rest 
we prevailed upon to remain, and initiated them into the mys- 
teries of the bell, by learning them how to pull the ciapper. 

At first they started back at the sound produced by them- 
selves, like the man who saw the devil rolling up his shadow. 
Soon they became more courageous, and then they played 
merrily with the bell, beside which a chief was now stationed, 
while Carpo mounted the taffrail and harangued his people 
about the mysterious music. They sat and listened in silent 
wonder, with outstretched necks, gaping mouths, and rolling 
eyes ! 

Preparations were made for our departure. Garry Garry 
importuned his mother, and she at length reluctantly consent- 
ed to let her son accompany us to the moon. Nomer and 
Heydee came off in a large canoe, loaded with fruit and roots 
of various kinds, together with cocoanut-shells filled with wa- 
ter. These were all passed on board, and intended expressly 
for the sea-stores of their son during his voyage to the moon. 
The vessel was surrounded by a dense raft of canoes, filled 
with natives, who had come to witness the departure of one of 
the " blood-royal," Garry Garry, whom they now looked upon 
as a holy apostle, offered in sacrifice to the gods. 

The anchor was apeak and sails unfurled, Garry Garry bade 
his people an affectionate farewell ; his father put a string of 
five beads upon his neck, one of which he was to throw away 
at the expiration of every moon, that he might thereby know 
how many more were to transpire before the white king ful- 
filled his promise ; his mother and sisters clung about his neck, 
and, kissing him tenderly, cried and sobbed aloud ; he dashed 
a tear from his manly eyes, tore himself away t and leaped on 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



195 



board the vessel, while an affecting and sorrowful murmur 
was uttered by the assembled savages. " She's away !" 
" Sheet home !" " Tally on the topsail halliards !" Away we 
sped again to sea. 

Certain tender passions everywhere control the human 
heart ; their influences are felt alike in the breast of a savage 
and in that of a civilized man. 

The following drawing represents some of the war imple- 
ments and utensils of Bidera. 



■ ^fr - «^^X£f>2 



BBaitfUMIBi 




No. 1 is a spear, nine feet long, barbed with fish-bones. 

No. 2 is a plain spear, made of cocoa wood hardened by fire ; 
the natives brandish it with dexterity, and hurl it with force 
sufficient to run the point through a pine board three quarters 
of an inch in thickness. 

No. 3 is a sling ; the socket is made of double cocoa fibre, 
the laniards of hog-skin neatly platted like a whip-thong, with 
a perfect " Turk's-head," and a shell ring at the end to prevent 
it from slipping through the fingers. Smooth round stones are 
thrown from it with force and precision. 

No. 4 is a carbo-gourd. 

No. 5 is a fine net-work bag ; the drawing can give nothing 
more than its shape ; its texture, and the varied figures of the 
net-work, cannot be surpassed by civilized man. 



196 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

No. 6 is a boar 1 s-tusk breast ornament. 

No. 7 is an arm ornament of carved tortoise-shell. 

No. 8 is a basket which the women carry upon their heads. 

I had a suspicion, from the use of the sling and the preva- 
lence of the rite of circumcision, that these might be the lost 
tribes of Israel, especially as Garry Garry told me there were 
extensive ruins in the centre of the island. 

The following is the manner in which the natives of the 
north coast of Bidera count from one to one hundred : 



1 Erry. 


15 Songule-lu-lemeer. 


2 Huer. 


16 Songule-lu-lemeer-gi-erry. 


3 Tolo. 


17 Songule-lu-lemeer-gi-huer. 


4 Pongee. 


18 Songule-lu-lemeer-gi-tolo. 


5 Lemeer. 


19 Songule-lu-lemeer-gi-pongee 


6 Lemeer-gi-erry. 


20 Songule-huer. 


7 Lemeer-gi-huer. 


30 Songule-tolo. 


8 Lemeer-gi-tolo. 


40 Songule-pongee. 


9 Lemeer-gi-pongee. 


50 Songule-lemeer. 


10 Songule. 


60 Songule-lemeer-gi-erry. 


11 Songule-lu-erry. 


70 Songule-lemeer-gi-huer. 


12 Songule-lu-huer. 


80 Songule-lemeer-gi-tolo. 


13 Songule-lu-tolo. 


90 Songule-lemeer-gi-pongee. 


14 Songule-lu-pongee. 


100 Songule Songule. 



This manner of enumeration is wonderful ; it is done by the 
combination of seven simple words ! Songule is ten, there- 
fore songule repeated is ten times ten. Did King David count 
in this manner'? More anon. 

The day after leaving Carwary, we were battering about 
among reefs, and anchored in a spacious bay, to the east of 
Cape Gloucester. We landed at a town of considerable size, 
and opened a trade with the inhabitants, who were ruled by a 
celebrated brave named Tantemilelooe. Two days after we 
anchored close to the northwest point of Bidera, in ten fath- 
oms water, with a sandy bottom. A short distance outside 
lies a dangerous shoal, part of which was dry at low water. 
The land near us is Cape Gloucester. 

From the sea-beach extended, two or three miles inland, a 
low and level prairie, covered with luxuriant grass. It rose or 
swelled up gently, and ended in an elevated, grass-covered 
knoll, of considerable elevation, behind which, in the distance, 
rose to the clouds the magnificent mountains of Bidera. A more 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 197 

splendid site for the construction of the palace of a prince than 
this prairie knoll does not exist in this world. The strait that 
divides Bidera from Papua is probably over sixty miles broad, 
and is known by the name of Dampier's Strait. This name, I 
think, is wrongly applied ; there are two straits instead of one ; 
for the passage is divided by a large island which lies in the 
centre. Speaking of the latter island, Captain Morrell says, 
in his journal, " We stood to the westward across the strait, 
and at 11 A.M. were close in under the northern shore of an 
island, of considerable size, that lies nearly in the centre of the 
strait, and which I shall call Dampier's Island, in honour of its 
discoverer, although some navigators have already called it 
Rook's Island." Dampier himself named it " Sir George 
Rook's Island ;" but the captain did not know this. The name 
given to it by the captain seems appropriate, and I shall call it 
by that name. 

Dampier did not sail through the strait that lies between 
Dampier's Island and Papua ; he sailed through the strait that 
lies between Bidera and Dampier's Island. The latter is the 
true Dampier's Strait; the former I name Gonoro Strait, as 
this is the native name. These names seem to me quite as 
applicable as those of Bally, Lombock, and Alias, which divide 
Sumbawa from Java; and of those of Mangeray and Sapy, 
which divide Floris from Sumbawa; and of those of Floris, 
Dutch Gut, Aluer, Pantar, and Timor. Opposite the north 
mouth of Dampier's Strait, and W. by N. of Cape Gloucester, 
lies a mountain island, covered with forests ; its native name 
is Lusee. In the centre of Dampier's Strait is situated a con- 
ical island, that rises abruptly from the water, and towers up 
more than one thousand feet into the air. It is composed of 
lava, clay, pumice and rotten stones, sulphur and cinders. 
Steam issued from its summit, and its sides were denuded and 
washed into deep chasms. I named it Cone Island. 

We manned the squadron, and, taking Garry Garry in the 
Invincible, started through Dampier's Strait, exploring the 
coast of. Bidera. Soon we came to a large town, situated 
near the beach, amid a cocoanut grove, and near by three 
beautiful and remarkable trees, with bright yellow foliage, 
which presented a singular contrast with the deep green of the 
surrounding forest. 

R 2 



198 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

The tum-tums beat " to arms," and warriors, armed to the 
teeth, strode along the beach. Boldly we sailed within spear's 
throw, and hove to. Garry Garry rose and harangued them, 
saying that he was the son of Nomcr, the king of Carwaiy, and 
that we were gods from the moon, who had come to make 
them presents. They threw away their arms, shouted and 
danced for joy, and invited us on shore, while the tum-tums 
ceased their clamour. We landed, and were conducted to the 
palace of the renowned King Kelinger, a young and daring 
warrior. He received us in state, and was very friendly. A 
treaty was ratified and presents exchanged ; he invited us to 
stop over night ; we declined, and set sail to the southward, 
along the coast. The scenery presented was grand and beau- 
tiful, made up of verdant and undulating knolls, sequestered 
dales, and distant lofty mountains of deep green. 

Near Cape Ann, the southwest point of Bidera, we discov- 
ered a little bay or cove. We sailed in and camped for the 
night upon the beach at its foot, near a grove of cocoanut- 
trees, from which we obtained a supply of fruit. The land 
rose abruptly into a wooded mountain, and the place seemed 
uninhabited. 

We remarked that, generally, every afternoon a cracking 
breeze blew through Dampier's Strait to the northward, and 
prevailed during the night, imparting a bracing and delightful 
vigour to the human system. 

It was night on the following day that we returned on board 
the vessel, and turned into our hammocks. It blew violently 
during the night, and, being exposed to the force of the sea, 
we rode bv two anchors. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

When the sun rose in the morning, the scene around was at 
once beautiful and imposing; on one side lay the prairies, the 
woodlands, and mountains of Bidera, and on the other Cone 
and Lusee Islands, and the deep-blue waters of Dampier's 
Strait, bounded by the loom of Dampier's Island, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



199 



We got under way, and sailed across the strait around the 
north and west sides of Cone Island, which stood before us 
like a vast columnar portal, marking the entrance to another 
world, with its gashed and denuded aspect contrasting strongly 
with the verdant scenery upon either side of the strait. The 
following drawing represents Cone Island, bearing E. by S. 




We coasted Dampier's Island ; the scenery was picturesque 
and elevated. On its southeast side we discovered a second- 
ary island, which was connected with the main by coral reefs 
that formed a safe lagoon inside. I was sent in the Invincible 
to look for a passage through the reefs, and discovered one to 
the east of the island. It was not more than one hundred feet 
wide ; the vessel followed on, and shot safely through into the 
lagoon, and moored, stem and stern, in nine fathoms' water, 
with a muddy bottom, inside of the island, near its east end, 
and opposite a large town, which was shaded by groves of co- 
coa and other trees. The place seemed deserted, and night 
was upon us. This island and town were named Gonoro. 

In the morning a few natives appeared and hailed us. We 
landed, and Garry told them who we were and what we had 
come for. They rejoiced much, and said that their king and 
all the women and children had retreated to the main yester- 
day, when they saw us coming in ; for they had taken us to be 
bad spirits, who had come to kill them and ravish their women. 
They immediately despatched canoes to inform the king that 
we were Timboca (good spirit). 

In the afternoon a large fleet of canoes advanced from the 
main. Some of them were double-banked, the largest that we 
had seen, and were propelled by two great mat sails. They 
were filled with men, women, and children, who soon sur- 
rounded the vessel. Presents were exchanged, as usual, and 



200 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

a treaty ratified, with a pleasant-looking, good-natured, stout 
old man. His name was Mahseelow ; he was the king of 
Gonoro and its dependances ; he presented the captain a sa- 
cred bird (a large white cockatoo). He invited us on shore, 
and then landed at the town with all his people. 

We explored a neighbouring sand-shoal and took a refresh- 
ing bath. 

The next day we landed upon Gonoro, and were received 
by Mahseelow and his chiefs, who marched us through a line 
of wigwams into a square, where were situated a big tum-tum, 
and a great platform built of logs and bamboo, and raised four 
feet from the ground upon piles. Around this was ranged a 
double row of log benches. The whole was shaded by large 
trees, the limbs of which projected over the platform, and were 
loaded with the jaw bones of hogs. This was evidently the 
Praetorium of Gonoro ; and we seated ourselves upon the plat- 
form, surrounded by the chiefs and populace, who repeated 
aloud " Cap-in Mor-el." 

Mahseelow introduced the chiefs, by touching each upon his 
head and repeating his name ; I cannot, for the life of me, call 
to mind their " crack-jaw" appellations. Now he harangued 
the assemblage with energy and violent gesticulation, to the 
following purport : " Beloved people ; you have looked at Oorro 
(the sun) from day to day, and at Tiecoe (the moon), Maryom- 
ber (sky), and Neto-Neto (stars) from night to night, and wit- 
nessed their regular revolutions. These are all controlled by 
Timboca, who has now come to visit you in the person of 
Cap-in Mor-el, who is a mighty and powerful Mahhonee 
(king), and has come to exchange the productions of Tiecoe 
for those of Gonoro. He never eats his enemies, or fights, ex- 
cept on the defensive, and then he destroys the foe with the 
lallum bally of Oorro !" 

The captain rose, in imitation of the sable king, and address- 
ed the assemblage. Garry interpreted the speech through us 
linguists, and the natives seemed wonderfully pleased. 

The limbs of the trees overhead were a sort of mythological 
deities, representing different seasons, and the trees might be 
said to form the Pantheon of Gonoro. One limb represented 
the bread-fruit season ; another the golopo, yam, banana, and 
cocoanut seasons ; and the number of hog's jaws that hung 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 201 

upon them were a sort of symbolical characters, denoting the 
numbers of a certain season that had been celebrated during 
the reign of a particular king. The jaws belonged to the poor 
porkers, whose carcasses had been baked and offered up as a 
sacrifice to the particular season which had been celebrated. 

The council broke up ; the king took us to his tuonger and 
introduced us to his three wives ; one was aged, and the others 
fat, buxom, and quite youthful. Next he showed us his " ship- 
yard" upon the beach : several canoes were upon the " stocks," 
in progress of completion. A broad board lay near, and had 
been hewn out of a tree, with great labour, with shell adzes ; 
several natives were " planing" it, by rubbing stones over the 
surface. 

The king was building a canoe for himself, and it was nearly 
completed ; that is, only about fifty holes remained to be made 
round the side for the rat an to pass through that seized on the 
bulwarks. Natives were now busy pecking these holes with 
shells and stones. It would probably have taken them a 
" month of Sundays" to complete the task. The captain sent 
for the carpenter, and he bored the holes through in a short 
time, and sawed the plank where the king marked it, much to 
the surprise and amazement of the natives, who afterward 
looked upon the carpenter as a wonderful magician or " ca- 
noe god." 

The next day the canoe was launched, and we painted it 
handsomely, with colours that would not " rub off!" It was 
very large, and ornamented with elaborate carvings of birds 
and fishes, and the prow was decorated with the carved head 
of Timboca. In the centre was a raised platform, with railing 
and roof, and it was rigged with two masts. ' The two medi- 
cines embarked in it, with Mahseelow and his daughters, and 
took a pleasure trip down the lagoon to try its speed. 

In company with a chief, I passed through the town and vis- 
ited the Temple of Gonoro. It was an oblong building, forty by 
sixty feet ; the roof sloped up at an acute angle, the peak was 
twenty- five feet high, supported by a ridge pole and pillars, all 
carved with figures of crocodiles, lizards, tortoises, and fishes. 
There was a doorway front and rear, and the facade was con- 
structed of logs. The walls were hung with implements of 
war and the chase. Some of the fishing-nets were superior 



202 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

to those made by civilized man. The twine was equal to our 
best fishing-lines, and the meshes were perfectly uniform. 

The inside of this large building presented a gloomy aspect, 
that gave it the appearance of mystery. In one angle I dis- 
covered a secret chamber, with a door leading into it. My 
curiosity was excited, and I attempted to enter. The iron 
hand of the chief grasped me by the shoulder, as he cried, 
" Arupo !" (tabooed or sacred). One look at his countenance 
satisfied me that he was not to be fooled with ; he led the way 
out of the temple, and I followed. He stalked through the 
village, and invited me into his wigwam and showed me some 
fresh-made sago, done up like cheese, in the form of sugar- 
loaves, and covered with banana leaves. His daughter, a 
sprightly girl, showed me her garden in the rear of the house, 
and, holding up a piece of cocoanut, cried, ; ' Ga-ne ! ga-ne !" 
whereupon a large cockatoo flew down from a neighbouring 
tree, and, perching upon her arm, began to eat the nut. They 
are a querulous and mournful bird, with languishing black eyes ; 
the one presented by Mahseelow to the captain nearly cried 
himself to death at parting with his friends of Gonoro. In 
company with the chief and his family, we dined upon fruit 
and baked bonito, after which we enjoyed a siesta and smoked 
cigars, made of tobacco rolled in dried plantain leaves. Hogs, 
with fiery eyes and ferocious looks, ran about the village, and 
cocks and hens strutted round the huts. 

The government of Gonoro seemed to be that of a patri- 
archism ; the king was looked up to as a patriarch of patrician 
blood. The doors of the wigwams remained unbolted and un- 
barred day and night ; there was no fear of thieves, swindlers, 
or assassins ; there was nothing valuable enough to excite the 
cupidity of the first two ; all possessed alike ; all had enough 
to eat and drink ; every family owned a house, and all dressed 
alike. The nearest relatives of the aged and infirm provided 
them with plenty to eat and a place to sleep ; this was all they 
required to make them happy. 

The climate is so delightful and healthy that the inhabitants 
live to a great age. One man that I saw seemed to be 130 
years old ; he was bent forward, his skin looked like parch- 
ment, and was wrinkled over his body. In vain the angel of 
death had long endeavoured to claim him as his own. His 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 203 

hair was gray, and he tottered along with a cane ; I saluted 
him as one belonging to an age gone by ; he halted, raised up 
his head, opened his filmy eyes, and gazed intently at me as 
he ejaculated, " Larcu emo paroker Timboca" (good child of 
the Good Spirit). 

" Tuo varee hie V (how old are you 1) asked 1 

He clasped his hands together and replied, 

" Songule-lemeer-gi-erry, songule-songule-tiecoe," so many 
hundreds of moons that he did not know. The old man was 
perfectly happy ; his children provided well for him, and he 
bid fair to live a long time to come, and pass imperceptibly 
into the sleep of death. I presented him some beads, which 
he said he would give to his great-great-grandchildren, and 
away he tottered. 

The natives, being free from care, and having no notes to 
pay, were a jolly, dancing, and right merry set. At night the 
young people had a grand dance, and our sailors joined in quite 
merrily, being all ready for a carousal. The small tum-tums 
beat, the fires blazed, the girls sung and danced, the gourds 
with shells inside rattled, and the fete broke up cheerily, while 
the youthful braves and gallants chaperoned their "ladyes 
fair" to their respective wigwams. On the following day the 
populace collected around the " ship-yards" to witness some 
of the miracles which the carpenter (canoe god) was perform- 
ing upon some of the canoes by desire of the natives. 

My curiosity in relation to the adytum, or secret chamber 
in the temple, had not subsided, and I resolved, at all hazards, 
to penetrate its mysteries. A favourable opportunity now of- 
fered, as the town was deserted. I called W on one side 

and communicated my intentions ; he entered into my scheme, 
and we proceeded to execute it with all expedition. 

We left the natives and walked along the beach, pretending 
to look for shells. The temple was situated upon the point of 
the island, and the town lay between it and the "ship-yard." 
Having passed the town, we hurried across the point and cau- 
tiously entered the rear portal of the temple. Inside things 
looked still more dismal and mysterious ; the crocodiles on 
the columns stared down frightfully upon us, and the war- 
clubs and spears that hung around seemed to frown and say, 
M You have intruded upon the sanctity of the inner temple of 



204 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Gonoro ; wielded by the incensed hands of the savages, we 
may yet fall upon your heads and crush you for this outra- 
geous sacrilege." W stationed himself beside the front 

portal, looking out towards the town ; and he was to notify 
me of the approach of savages by sounding the alarm-whistle. 
Cautiously I approached the adytum, and put my hand upon a 
mat that closed the entrance. Something moved inside ! I 
started back, and my heart fluttered with apprehension. 

W reminded me that there was no time to be lost, for the 

natives would soon return to the village, and then our discov- 
ery would be certain ! I grasped my pistol, seized hold of the 
mat, and leaped inside of the mysterious chamber, while the 
mat closed behind me. 

In the centre of the chamber was a platform, upon which 
stood a large, oblong basket, covered with cocoa cloth, which 
was painted with red hieroglyphics ; over this was erected a 
canopy of bamboo, ratan, ebony, and fan-palms ; and upon the 
top stood a large living cockatoo, tied by one leg. On the op- 
posite side of the chamber was a shelf, with wooden jars ran- 
ged upon it, all carved and painted with symbolical characters. 
The only light was admitted through a small hole overhead, 
and everything bore a gloomy aspect. I seized hold of the 
covering upon the basket ; the cockatoo fluttered backward in 
affright, and cried, " Car ! car !" most ominously. I removed 
the covering, and in the basket lay a human skeleton, a war- 
club, a spear, and strings of wampum ! 

Next I proceeded to the shelf, which was as high as my 
head; five oval jars stood upon it ; I took them down one by 
one ; something moved inside of all of them ; four were sealed 
up with gum copal ; the fifth was unsealed, and I proceeded to 
open it ; my companion whistled ! 

The jar fell from my hand; a human scull rolled out upon 
the floor ! the sacred bird opened his mouth wide, rolled his 
large black eyes, and screamed loudly. Terrified, I abandoned 
everything, rushed out of the chamber, and ran for the rear 

portal. W recalled me, by saying that he had seen a dog 

and a savage coming up the avenue, but that they had turned 
to the left. I returned to the sanctuary of the dead, and, re- 
placing everything as I had found it, we left the temple by the 
rear portal, and, without suspicion on the part of the savages, 
turned to the town along the beach. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 205 

The natives admired our vermilion paint very much, because 
it would not rub off like their clay and whitewash. The next 
day the crew were busy painting the front of the king's house 
in red and white stripes. 

I visited the house of my friend the chief; his daughters en- 
tertained me with fruit, and then I strolled along the beach 
searching for shells. When out of sight of the town, I heard 
natives shouting loudly in the forest, and two savages hove in 
sight, running down the beach towards me ; one cried " Tom!" 
and the other " Bad Man !" 

I cocked my pistol, and thought of the sacrilegious proceed- 
ings in the temple ! When within one hundred feet they halted, 
right-about-faced, and pointed to their backs, upon one of 
which was painted, in large, flaming red letters, " Tom," and 
upon the other " Bad Man." 

I felt more at ease ; the wags among our crew had been 
gratifying the taste of these savages for red paint, and had 
taught them to repeat the names upon their bodies like so 
many parrots. I congratulated them upon their names ; they 
took hold of me, and conducted me along a path that led into 
the forest ; presently we came to an opening, where were sit- 
uated lodges and gardens, and youthful voices shouted " Star! 
star !" A host of girls and boys were riding upon hogs, who 
trotted round a ring, while the riders cried " Star !" I recog- 
nised more of our vermilion ; a girl stood in the centre of the 
ring, and upon her breast was painted a large star! 

Upon my return to the town, I found the facade of the king's 
tuonger handsomely painted ; and beneath the door sill, in 
large black letters, was painted B. M., the initials of the cap- 
tain. 

The savages stood admiring the red paint, and requested to 
have their bodies painted. The sailors were up to their eyes 
in business, painting and nicknaming them, while they ran 
away, joyfully shouting the names upon their respective bod- 
ies, such as Bill Bobstay, Bowsprit, Flying-jib, Bumpkin, 
Kentledge, and Anchor. The latter was a stout, lusty man, 
and had a large anchor painted down the whole length of his 
back, with the flukes extending round in front of his body. 
The next day we explored the lagoon, and sent the divers 
clown for pearl-shell, but found none, We went swimming 

S 



206 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

with the natives, and bets ran high about the distance a man 
could swim. 

At daybreak the next morning we bade our good friends 
farewell, got under way, and put to sea. We crossed Dam- 
pier's Strait to Cape Ann, and coasted close along the south 
side of Bidera to the eastward. The water was clay coloured, 
and the soundings varied from thirteen to twenty fathoms, 
muddy bottom. An open space looked like the mouth of a 
river, and the coast seemed uninhabited. At night we anchor- 
ed in twenty-two fathoms, muddy bottom, between three small 
islands and the main. At daybreak we were again under 
way ; the land was low, and divided into numerous small isl- 
ands. The soundings were very irregular, and in successive 
throws we had six, nine, and twenty fathoms, mud and sand. 
We passed outside of a dangerous shoal, and sailed along the 
south side of a remarkable little island, situated near the main ; 
it presented to view a rocky cliff, one hundred feet or more in 
height, surmounted by scattering cocoa and other trees. 

We soon found ourselves opposite a vast group of little isl- 
ands, divided by narrow channels, and filling up a great bay or 
hollow in the mainland ; they were of the primary and second- 
ary formations, were covered with verdure, and presented 
a romantic appearance. We sailed in among them boldly, and, 
thridding their tortuous channels, passed a village shaded by 
cocoanut-trees, and soon found ourselves shut out from the 
sea. Now a beautiful panoramic view opened to our enrap- 
tured vision, as if by magic. We looked to the northward, 
over a narrow and placid sheet of water, which was formed 
into a vista seven miles long, bounded on either side by the 
projecting and wooded points of the islets, and growing dim in 
perspective, and finally ending at the base of the looming 
lands of Bidera. The sun had sunk low in the horizon, and 
the dark shade of each islet was cast over the placid surface 
of the vista waters, which contrasted charmingly with the in- 
tervening golden rays of the sun. A sweet and balmy per- 
fume was wafted upon the senses, and birds of plumage and 
of song carolled their vesper hymns. We anchored close 
upon one of the islets, in ten fathoms water, mud bottom. 
The sailors bunted the sails with a loud " yo-heave-ho I" and 
savages in the forest replied, "Ya-yoo, ya-yoo, ye-yoo!" 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 207 

At 4 P.M. we were piped, " Explorers, away !" We manned 
the squadron and set sail up the vista. As the day dawned, 
chanticleers crowed upon the land, and birds of various spe- 
cies fluttered and screeched about. Three unarmed savages 
stood upon the beach of an island, gazing at us. We landed 
with all speed in front of them ; they fled with precipitation up a 
neighbouring bluff; one grasped a shrub near its verge ; it came 
out by the root, and he rolled to the bottom. We surround- 
ed him ; he rose up, trembling with fear. Garry addressed him, 
and said that we were good people, and that he was the son of 
Nomer, the king of Carwary. The savage was a hearty-look- 
ing young man, and, with joyful countenance, recognised 
Garry, whom he had before fallen in with during a hunting 
tour upon the mountains of Bidera. The savage, whose name 
was Wakenish, consented to pilot us to the ruins ; we took 
him into the Invincible, and set sail on our course. We enter- 
ed and sailed up a river that led us into the interior of Bidera. 
The scenery was beautifully interspersed with timbered land 
and verdant lawns. Palm-trees, and beautiful ferns of various 
species, fringed the points of rural coves, and the splendid- 
plumaged Psittacus Erythrocephalus and the Phasianus Pictus 
skimmed the tree-tops. The soil was rich, and no signs of in- 
habitants could be seen ; the whole scene was one of primitive 
and exquisite beauty. 

W T e landed, and, leaving the squadron at anchor in charge 
of five men, marched into the forest. 

" Fiz snarl !" sounded a voice from above, and, looking up, 
we saw, crouched in the crotch of a tree, a huge panther ; our 
muskets were instantly levelled at him ; he sprang out upon a 
limb over our heads, and leaped into the opposite tree, down 
the trunk of which he ran, and sprang upon a decayed tree 
that lay upon the ground, where he faced around, eyed us with 
his fiery eyes, swept the tree with his tail, bared his teeth, 
growled spitefully, wheeled round, and bounded like lightning 
out of sight in the depths of the jungle. Emerging from the 
forest, we came out upon an undulating prairie and crossed it, 
skirting round a strip of woodland that encircled an elevated 
tumulus or Indian mound. Then we travelled over a range of 
wooded hills and waded up a stream £f water, which we cross- 
ed, and ascended a rocky pass that brought us upon another 



208 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

prairie, with steep wooded hillocks scattered about. Upon 
the summit of one rose a tower and an obelisk; we endeav- 
oured to reach them, and commenced climbing the tumulus. 
Our progress was slow, for we had to cut our way through the 
matted and gnarled shrubs and vines with axes and hatchets. 
We now became satisfied that we were ascending an artificial 
elevation ; for at every step we encountered heaps of rubbish 
and stones half buried, that exhibited marks of having been 
sculptured with hieroglyphics and images which were now 
nearly defaced. It was near dark when we reached the sum- 
mit and stood in front of a quadrangular stone structure, the 
angles of which faced the four points of the compass. The 
portal was formed by a kind of octangular belfry, projecting 
from the facade, and was carved with crocodiles and human 
feet, interwoven with enormous snakes, and surmounted by a 
huge block of stone, representing some human monster with 
two heads and one body. The whole structure was in a state 
of decay, and covered with shrubs and vines, the roots of 
which had thrown the stones down, and the ruthless hand of 
time bid fair to merge it soon into a shapeless mound. The 
roof appeared to have been composed of cement, supported 
upon arches ; but it had fallen in, and we found it difficult to 
penetrate any part, on account of all the passages being block- 
ed up with heaps of rubbish, in which were secreted lizards 
and other reptiles. 

Wakenish made a fire in front of the ruins, and kindled it 
by revolving the point of a piece of dry wood upon a hole or 
socket in another piece that lay upon the ground. We camp- 
ed for the night. In the morning we collected specimens of 
the ruins, and shot a falcon that measured six feet three inches 
from the tip of each wing when outspread. We returned to 
the squadron and set sail homeward. We made Wakenish 
many presents, and landed him upon his island, when he bade 
us farewell with a buoyant heart, well pleased with the man- 
ner in which the pale faces had treated him. It was late at 
night that we arrived safe on board the vessel, much fatigued. 
The next day was the Sabbath, and it was devoted to reading, 
recreation, and repose. I name the place where we are an- 
chored Clay Harbour, after Henry Clay. 

Our worthy third officer, Mr. Scott, nearly lost his life yes- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 209 

terday ; while setting up the martingale back-rope, the laniard 
parted, he fell overboard, and his head struck violently against 
the chain cable ; he was stunned and sunk ; a noble young 
man, a native of New- York, leaped overboard, seized him by 
the hair of his head, and saved his life. 

At daybreak on the following morning we manned the 
squadron, and proceeded to explore the islands at the mouth of 
the harbour. We landed suddenly in front of a village, which 
was imbowered, as usual, amid cocoanut and other trees. 
The natives fled, terrified, and left muscles and nuts roasting 
by the fires. Garry discovered a savage concealed in the top 
of a cocoanut-tree, and called to him to come down ; he re- 
plied tremblingly, and Garry requested him to wait until he 
returned to the boats and got some presents for him. When 
he came back he found that the savage had taken French leave 
and decamped. Not being enabled to open any communica- 
tion with the natives, we hung trinkets in front of the wig- 
wams, and departed to explore a coral reef, which having com- 
pleted, we returned home. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

The next morning we started again on an exploring cruise 
among the islands. We landed to quench our thirst from the 
cocoanuts that hung upon a neighbouring grove. While up 
the trees, we discovered a village upon a hill in the interior ; 
we immediately took up our line of march, in Indian file, to 
reconnoitre, led on by Garry-Garry and the captain. Pene- 
trating the forest, we forded a creek knee deep, and found our- 
selves at the base of a rocky cliff", upon the summit of which 
stood the village, surrounded by a stockade of logs. Not one 
savage could be seen, and we commenced scaling the rocky 
precipice up a ghaut that led to the only entrance into the 
stockade on this side. 

A terrific war-yell rang in our ears, and the stockade bris- 
tled with the dark bodies of savages, who hurled a shower of 
stones down upon us. Garry was knocked down, and several 

of the sailors were slightly wounded. Luckily for us, the sav- 

Sg 



210 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

ages had cast the stones too. soon, for many of them passed 
over a projecting rock that shielded us. 

We littered the war-yell in reply, and fired a volley of mus- 
ketry into the air, and pushed rapidly ahead. The savages 
disappeared, and returned not the yell. We advanced upon 
the gateway of the stockade, which we found blocked up with 
logs. W T ith axes we cut our way through. The captain drew 
his cutlass, cried" Come on!" and leaped inside the stockade, 
followed by the crew, cutlass in hand, who immediately formed 
in line. 

We were surrounded by wigwams ; but they were deserted ; 
the savages had retreated precipitately through a gateway on 
the opposite side of the stockade, and we were left masters of 
this fortified village, in the centre of which, upon the tops of 
lofty trees, supported by timbers extending across the crotches 
of the limbs, was built, high in air, a castle of logs and bam- 
boo, bound together with osiers. Upon its eastern angle was 
raised a pole, to which were tied ten smoked human sculls, that 
gazed down ghastly at us. A sailor climbed a notched tree, 
entered the castle through a trap-door, and, peering through an 
embrasure, uttered the war-yell, and hallooed, "We've taken 
the city by storm, and it's ours by right of conquest!" 

We replied with three hearty cheers, and the sailor passed 
down to us a splendid hog-skin shield, a war-club of hard un- 
known wood, and five of the human sculls. He informed us 
that the citadel was well provided with stones, spears, and 
other missiles. 

The drawing opposite represents the shield and war-club or 
battle-axe which we took from the citadel. Inspecting the 
village, we found several smouldering fires of dry wood, and a 
nut resembling the almond roasting by them. We were start- 
led by a plaintive sobbing cry, and, upon searching a neigh- 
bouring wigwam, discovered an old woman, who had been un- 
able to run away ; beside her sat a girl bathed in tears ; she 
was probably the grand-daughter of the old woman, and had 
resolved to remain and share her fate. They thought their 
final day had come, and that, as was the custom of their tribe, 
we would soon feast upon their roasted bodies ! We assured 
them that we were their friends, and made them presents ; their 
countenances brightened up, and we left trinkets to be distrib- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 



211 




uted among their people. Then, taking the sculls, the shield, 
and the war-club, we marched solemnly out of the village, em- 
barked in the squadron, and returned home. 

The sculls we packed in a box, intending to carry them to 
New- York, and have them examined by a practical phrenolo- 
gist, but fate ordained otherwise, as will be seen in the sequel. 
When the vessel was wrecked, they came near involving the 
captain and crew in a bloody outbreak with the savages of 
Madagascar. 

The next day we again started for a village that we had be- 
fore visited, and left trinkets ; the one where Garry had discov- 
ered the man in the tree. This time the natives stood their 
ground, so that Garry hailed them, and we opened a trade, to 
the mutual satisfaction of both parties. They became very 
intimate with us, and we visited their lodges. The name of 
the island was Ehag, and the principal chief was named Loe- 
Loe. The young women seemed to take a particular liking 
to our jolly tars, and feasted them upon plums and roasted 
sweet potatoes. What made them receive us so kindly was, 
that a canoe, filled with young men of Ehag, while fishing up 
the harbour, had fallen in with Wakenish, who gave them a 
flattering account of the manner in which the pale-faced stran- 
gers had treated him. 



212 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

The next morning, a fleet of canoes, filled with men and 
women, came alongside the vessel, and Wakenish, with sev- 
eral aged chiefs, leaped on board. They invited us to their 
village ; we embarked in the squadron, and the canoes led us 
up the harbour ; we all landed at a large village, and were re- 
ceived by the natives as spirits from another world. Round 
about lay scattered handsome little gardens, divided by shady 
groves of various sorts of fruit-bearing trees. We distributed 
seeds of various kinds among the natives, and taught them how 
to plant them in their gardens. They promised to follow our 
instructions, and nurse the plants carefully. We made them 
presents, bade them farewell, and returned home. 

At daybreak the next morning we got under way and put to 
sea, through a different passage from that by which we had 
entered. We coasted to the eastward, sailing inside of two 
uninhabited islands, that were covered with cocoanut-trees. 
The mainland rose in steep acclivities from the sea, crowned 
with beautiful and luxuriant table-lands. Next we coasted 
along the south side of several small, uninhabited islands that 
lie near the main. One of them was so remarkably conspicu- 
ous, that it deserves particular notice. It was nearly circular, 
and rose abruptly from the sea, presenting to view a smooth, 
perpendicular wall of rock, fifty feet high. The top receded, 
forming a narrow esplanade, or glacis, behind which rose anoth- 
er perpendicular wall of rock, fifty feet or more in height, and 
crowned, like the other, by table-land. It was a complete 
natural castle, and a few men, provided with the proper im- 
plements of war, could defend it against the attack of thou- 
sands. I name it Castle Island. At dark we lay to. In the 
morning we again made sail; but the day proved calm, and we 
lay near the land, heaving up and down upon the undulating 
surface of the Papua Sea. 

The day was one of recreation, and all hands busied them- 
selves, as pleased their fancy, in different parts of the vessel. 
Some were upon the booms, fishing with pearl hooks, red-flan- 
nel, and pork-fat. But the majority of the sailors were scat- 
tered about amidships, under the shade of the awning ; one 
was sitting, a " cock bill," against the " scuttle-but," with a 
pipe in his mouth and a book in his hand, reading " Tales of the 
Ocean ;" another was splitting palm leaf with a piece of tor- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 213 

toise-shell ; a third platted the leaf into sennit, and the fourth 
sewed it into a hat of convenient, though not very fashionable 
shape ; the fifth burnished his pike and pistols with a piece of 
shark-skin ; the sixth marked out the bottom of a circular can- 
vass bag with a piece of trebled rope-yarn ; the seventh was 
cutting out a pair of duck trousers from the pattern of his old 
ones. The carpenter was making a crow's-foot, and the ar- 
morer cutting iron for trade. Beneath the bowsprit sat a noisy 
gang, playing cards and other games ; these were the only 
idlers. 

Garry-Garry had now become an important man among us, 
and felt quite at home. We made a complete " suit" of cloth- 
ing for him, viz., a duck shirt and pair of trousers, and we 
now proceeded to deck him in them. 

Garry donned the shirt and trousers rather awkwardly, and 
a sailor buckled a strap round his body, with a sheath and 
knife attached. Then we crowned his head with a Scotch 
cap, and a sailor, telling him that he " must appear before the 
skipper a little shipshape and Bristol fashion about the gills," 
passed a flashy red handkerchief round his neck and tied it in 
a reef-knot, with flowing points. Garry seemed pleased, but 
it was evident that the clothing made him very uneasy, as he 
walked aft to exhibit himself to the skipper. All hands roared 
out, and the Doctor laughed from clew to earing, showing his 
ivory in striking contrast with his Jim Crow face and the 
smoky funnel. 

At night we had a good breeze, and made some headway. 
In the morning we were opposite an archipelago of verdant isl- 
ands, filling up a hollow in the main, which is, in many re- 
spects, similar to that of Clay Harbour, except that these islets 
are lower and of the secondary formation. We wound our 
way between them to the northward, and cast anchor in ten 
fathoms, mud bottom, near an island, and completely shut out 
from the sea. A beautiful grove of cocoa-trees ranged along 
the beach, and on the opposite island we discovered with our 
telescope several wigwams. We manned the squadron and 
landed ; the natives fled into the forest, and we pursued them. 
One man we overtook and surrounded ; he was very aged, and 
thought his final day had come. We presented him trinkets ; 
he took them, and gazed at us in inquiring amazement, as if he 






214 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

intended to say, " What mean these mysterious proceedings 1 
I thought you were the enemies of our people." " We are 
their friends," said Garry ; " the'red men are great and good." 
The old man was overjoyed, and, conducting us back to the 
village, presented us a fine hog. We bade him farewell, and 
returned home to repose. 

At the break of day we were away in the squadron, sailing 
up a vista of the archipelago. We entered a creek, and pro- 
ceeded up until it became so narrow that the limbs of the ma- 
jestic trees on either side fairly met overhead, forming a nat- 
ural arch. Fearing an ambuscade of savages, or, perad venture, 
wild beasts, we retraced our steps to the mouth, and followed 
the tortuous windings of the canals of the archipelago to the 
eastward, between dense rows of mangrove, bamboo, and 
palms. It was a dead calm ; nothing broke the dismal still- 
ness except the sound of our oars and the screeching of alarmed 
birds, as they rose fluttering away from the jungle. We caught 
one hasty glimpse of two canoes, filled with savages, who pad- 
dled swiftly across a channel and disappeared. Next we in- 
vested a large village near a sand-beach ; it was deserted ; the 
natives had fled hastily, for fires were still smouldering around. 
We stationed pickets and examined the huts ; to the ridge 
poles of some were suspended hogs 1 jaws, the spines of fishes, 
human sculls in baskets, and bunches of bananas. In one we 
found an old man, who was unable to run ; we treated him 
kindly, and made him presents as usual. 

" To arms ! to arms !" shouted the pickets. The savage 
war-yell rang through the forest : we hastily got the squadron 
afloat, and, leaving it in charge of five men, ran to the rear of 
the village, headed by the captain and Garry, who was armed 
with a lance ; we formed in line just in time to intercept our 
retreating pickets, who were flying before a host of savages, 
whose dusty forms bristled along the skirts of the forest. 
They uttered the war-yell and poured out of their covert, arm- 
ed with spears and clubs, and pressed upon us with fury, en- 
deavouring to turn our right flank ; we wheeled in solid col- 
umn, and faced them, with a war-yell and a volley of musketry 
fired over their heads. They halted in alarm, and retreated 
under covert of the wood. 

The old man was brought out of his hut by Garry, and pla- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 215 

ced in front of our ranks ; the captain told him to go and tell 
his people that we were their friends. He said he would do 
all he c uld, but he was afraid they would not believe him ; 
for when he was a child his father had told him that, when he 
was a young- man, devils in human form, with pale faces, had 
once visited Kokava Bay, which lies to the eastward. They 
came in a big" war-canoe, and most wantonly robbed and mur- 
dered his people; they ravished the young women, and carried 
some of them away. The captain told him that they were bad 
people, and did not belong to his tribe, which he could go and 
tell his people in the woods, and farther threatened that, if 
they attacked him again, or sounded tjie war-yell, he would 
destroy them and burn their village. The old man tottered 
slowly away, assisted by a cane. He soon reached the wood, 
and we saw him holding a parley with a host of savages who 
surrounded him. At length he returned towards us, followed 
by several chiefs and about thirty warriors, all armed with 
spears ; they halted half way between us and the wood, while 
the old man approached us, and said that his people were de- 
sirous of entering into a treaty of peace. The captain told 
him to tell his people to throw away their spears and advance 
nearer ; they did so, and again halted about one hundred feet 
from us. The captain and Garry now threw away their arms 
and advanced to meet two of the chiefs, with whom they ex- 
changed betle and presents, and promised to preserve mutual 
peace forever. I 

The natives now flocked into the village in considerable 
numbers, and were quite friendly. Some put hog-hide bands 
round their feet, and then each hugged a cocoanut-tree, and 
walked up its trunk, hand over hand, with as much ease as we 
walk up a pair of stairs. They threw the nuts down with a 
particular whirl, so that they should strike the ground with 
their points, and thus prevent them from breaking and spilling 
the water. 

These natives spoke a language materially different from 
that of Garry, and he could" not understand many of their 
words. Another village lay in sight, situated upon the oppo- 
site island ; several canoes accompanied us over to it, and we 
opened a friendly communication with its chief, who resided 
in a splendid bamboo house, the inside of which was plastered 



216 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

with shell or coral lime, and the facade worked in diamond 
fretwork. 

We continued onward, sailing to the eastward, and, late in 
the afternoon, camped for the night upon an uninhabited island. 
Near us was a fine grove of cocoanut-trees, in full bearing, and 
the island had, no doubt, at some distant day, been the site of 
a village ; for we discovered the ruins of a wigwam with fire- 
stakes and grassy mounds. 

We enjoyed a delightful bath upon the sand-beach, and then, 
as night set in, we rolled ourselves in blankets and reclined 
around the camp fire, each with a pipe in his mouth, for a 
grand smoke. We congratulated each other upon our fine ap- 
pearance, for, in this healthy climate, we had grown fat and 
hearty upon a continued feast of fruits. The diseases incident 
to our changeable and unhealthy climate are here unknown. 
Benton spun a long yarn about some expedition in which he 
had been enlisted, upon the coast of Africa ; a lion sprang 
from a jungle, seizing one of his men and tearing out his bow- 
els, after which he dragged the mutilated body under covert of 
the jungle and escaped. Finally, a hippopotamus stove his 
boat ; his men all died with malignant fevers, and he saved his 
life by taking refuge on board a slave ship, the captain of 
which was a cruel man, and when the slaves became unruly, 
he made them walk the plank and keel-hauled them ! Our 
pickets dreamed of wild beasts all night, and once they roused 
out the captain to look at something mysterious. It turned 
out to be fish sporting upon the surface of the water. 

In the morning we struck our tent, and set sail on our return 
by a new route, outside of the archipelago, exploring the dan- 
gerous reefs that bordered upon the sea. We circled round a 
small sand island, which was literally covered with gulls, that, 
upon our approach, rose in the air and formed a screeching 
cloud. The guano will one day make a rich and fruitful soil, 
and this will be converted into a verdant island. Onward we 
sped, following the sinuosities of the reefs. The Sylph and 
the Tempest were ahead, and we suddenly saw them combat- 
ing a powerful current; we made the discovery when too 
late ; the Invincible and all were hurried into the vortex, and 
driven with fearful velocity towards a coral barrier, upon 
which the sea broke in foam, and a long line of deep green 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 217 

curling rollers. As if to hasten our destruction, the wind fell 
away, and the comhers broke around, fairly drenching us with 
the " spoon-drift." We plied the oars with nerve, and dashed, 
nearly swamped, through the foam. The Invincible struck 
the coral once with great violence ; but we leaped overboard 
and held on to the gunwales, and kept her head on. Most for- 
tunately for us, our lives were saved, and we got safe through, 
under the lee of the barrier, completely drenched and badly 
scraped. We landed upon an island, made all as snug as pos- 
sible, and set sail home. 

When we sighted the vessel in the distance up the vista, she 
loomed as large as a frigate, and seemed to float upon a white 
cloud. It was occasioned by a fata morgana. The plasters 
were applied freely to the wounds we had received from the 
sharp coral, and we turned in, much fatigued. 

The next day we dismantled the boats, and turned them bot- 
tom upward upon the neighbouring beach, and all hands went 
to work and repaired the damage they had sustained. The In- 
vincible, the Tempest, and the Sylph were most thoroughly 
overhauled and painted. On the third day after they were 
launched and rigged, and we started on an exploring cruise to 
the westward. 

We discovered a large village, situated upon sloping ground, 
with a large square between it and the beach, around, which 
grew groves of fruit-bearing and fragrant trees. In the square 
sat, squatting upon their haunches, about a hundred warriors, 
in a semicircle, the concave side of which was towards us. 
Each warrior held in his left hand a large barbed spear, one 
end of which rested upon the ground, in a vertical position, 
and under his right arm was a carbo-gourd. In the hollow of 
the circle squatted the king of this island (which is named 
Pudee) and its dependances. His name is Rogerrogee. He 
eyed us sharply, and rose up to his full height, which was 
seven feet six inches ; he was a complete giant, and in every 
respect as well formed as Monsieur Bihin. Upon his head 
waved gracefully a paradise plume ; around his waist were 
wound many folds of wampum, to which was secured the 
sculls of sacred birds, filled with small shells, while in his left 
hand he held an enormous barbed spear, and in his right a 
beautifully-carved and ornamented carbo-gourd. As we form- 

T 



218 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



ed in line upon the beach, we felt at first somewhat dismayed 
at the sight of this giant and his warriors ; we recovered our 
usual courage, however, upon hearing the remark of one of the 
crew : " David killed Goliath ; our bullets will pierce his heart 
as quick as that of a smaller man." 

The following drawing represents the appearance of Roger- 
rogee and his warriors. 




Rogerrogee now strided majestically towards us, with his 
fluttering plumes and rattling wampum sculls. His warriors 
rose and stood with their eyes fixed upon us ; we cautiously 
cocked our rifles, and prepared for whatever reception they 
might choose to give us. In an easy, friendly manner, the 
chief held out his carbo-gburd, and ratified a treaty of peace by 
chewing betle with the captain, who could have walked under 
his arm. He conducted us to the town, and we opened a trade 
with the natives. The family of Rogerrogee seemed to be all 
giants ; one of his daughters would have made an Amazon. 
Garry-Garry got along so awkwardly, during his interview 
with the people of Pudee, owing to the confinement and un- 
pleasant restrictions of his clothing, that he stripped them off 
in disgust, and stowed them in the locker of the Invincible, 
firmly resolved not to wear them any more. When we em- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 219 

barked, the natives marched down to the beach, in solemn pro- 
cession, preceded by men carrying a large hog, which they laid 
upon his back and held him down, while one of the natives 
hurled a spear into his heart. The poor porker died instantly, 
and his body was passed into the Invincible as a present, to- 
gether with very large and fine-flavoured sugar-cane. We 
presented trinkets to Rogerrogee and his principal braves, and 
set sail for home. 

The next day, a party of natives, among whom was the old 
man, from the opposite village, came alongside the vessel in 
canoes. We accompanied them to their gardens, and planted 
various seeds, and gave them a hoe. 

I name the spot where the vessel lay anchored Cass Har- 
bour, after General Lewis Cass. 

The next morning we weighed anchor and were soon out to 
sea, coasting N.E. by E. Large villages and extensive groves 
of cocoa-trees were ranged along the coast. In the afternoon 
we sailed inside of a small island, and entered a large bay in 
Bidera. Buccinums and tum-tums sounded at a large town, 
and a fleet of canoes, filled with black armed warriors, put off 
in pursuit of the vessel. A threatening thunder and lightning 
gust advanced at the same time, and we drove under bare 
poles out to sea, while the savages returned to the shore. I 
think that this is the spot where Dampier landed. 

In the morning we continued coasting along. A fleet of ca- 
noes, filled with armed warriors, came off and followed in our 
wake. We exhibited trinkets and threw overboard bottles 
with beads attached ; they picked them up, and hallooed for us 
to throw overboard all the trinkets and knick-knacks we had on 
board. We did not comply with their modest request. Our 
band of music struck up a tune. The savages sung, struck 
their paddles against their canoes, and paddled for the shore. 
At night we lay to. 

In the morning we lay becalmed near the land. A fleet of 
canoes, filled with warriors, came off and ordered us, by 
threatening motions with their spears and slings, to be gone ! 
We refused to obey. They hurled a volley of stones at us, and 
threatened to board the vessel, with clubs and spears in hand. 
Some of the crew were severely wounded by their missiles. 
We repulsed them with langrage fired from the carronades. 



220 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

They were put to flight ; some abandoned their canoes and 
swam in safety to the shore ; others, mortally wounded, leaped 
overboard in despair, and sank in agony into a watery grave. 
One canoe, containing ten braves of note, was raked by our 
fire, and every one wounded ; they stripped off their wampum, 
and, casting it into the sea, leaped after it. Being unable to 
swim, they clung to the lee side of their canoe. We went in 
the Invincible to pick them up, and did so with much difficul- 
ty, for they dove down and held fast to the keel. We brought 
them and their canoe alongside of the vessel, and conducted 
them into the cabin, their wounds still bleeding copiously. 
They made no complaint, but, believing every moment to be 
their last, awaited death like brave men. 

Garry-Garry seemed worked into a phrensy ; he knew by 
certain signs that these braves were the deadly enemies of his 
tribe, and spoke a different language ; he commenced stripping 
off their hogs' teeth necklaces, and directed the cook to pre- 
pare to roast their bodies for a grand feast ! The captain com- 
pelled him to desist, and taught him to show mercy to a con- 
quered enemy. Our prisoners were wounded in different 
parts of their bodies : one was severely cut upon the top of his 
scull ; a ball lodged in the elbow of the second ; the third had 
his temple gashed near the eye ; the fourth received a ball 
upon the crown of his scull, between which and the skin it 
had lodged ; the fifth received a ball in his right thigh, and the 
wound presented a tense fascia. 

We probed the wounds, extracted the balls, scarified them 
with the bistoury, and dressed them in the best manner we 
knew how, with adhesive plasters, lint, opium, and basilicon. 
Then we placed the natives in their canoe, presented them 
handsome coloured engravings, iron, beads, and mirrors, and 
told them that they were free. Heretofore they had remained 
as unmoved as statues ; but, at this exhibition of our kindness 
and generosity, their feelings overcame them, and with tears 
they invited us to come on shore, and, promising not to attack 
us again, they paddled away. 

Alas ! it was a melancholy and touching scene to witness 
those brave and chivalrous warriors, who but a short time be- 
fore were in their pomp and glory, now slowly paddling for 
the shore maimed and crest-fallen. They landed upon the 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 221 

beach ; it was deserted, and no friendly hand dare venture to 
their assistance ; they marched slowly away, leading each 
other, and disappeared from our view into the depth of the for- 
est. I wished most fervently that we could have washed our 
hands of their blood. 

We had a fine breeze during the night, and coasted N.E. by E. 

In the morning we found ourselves lying in a spacious bay, 
with Cape Orford in view, bearing to the southeastward. I 
name it Cooper Bay, after J. F. Cooper. We coasted round 
Cape Orford. The land rose in gradual, undulating slopes 
from the sea, and, in the interior, towered into mountains, the 
sides of which were picturesquely bespangeled with prairies, 
and woodlands, and verdure of different hues ; forming alto- 
gether a lovely natural agricultural scenery, while at the 
same time a fragrant and delightful perfume was wafted from 
the spicy coppices to seaward. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

With feelings not to be expressed in words, we bade fare- 
well to this land of promise, and steered E. by S., with a 
cracking breeze from the west. 

Garry-Garry felt somewhat alarmed when the land disap- 
peared from view, for he feared that we had lost our way. 
At night we were overtaken by a severe thunder storm. In 
the morning it was calm, and a water-spout fell near us. 

The next morning we saw Bougainville Island, one of the 
Mendana Archipelago. We coasted its west shore, passing 
inside of a small island and a long, dangerous coral reef, upon 
which the sea broke heavily. The interior of the island is 
mountainous, and slopes gradually towards the sea. The 
scenery was verdant and magnificent, equal to any we had 
seen. The summit of a mountain was crowned by what ap- 
peared to be two extinguished volcanic craters. We anchored 
in front of a large village, which was imbowered amid cocoa- 
nut, bread-fruit, banana, and other fruit-bearing trees. A host 
of bold and noisy savages soon surrounded us. They were 

T 2 



222 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

well armed with bows, barbed arrows, spears, and war-clubs, 
all of which were symmetrically constructed and elaborately 
carved. The natives were jet-black, of medium height, their 
limbs compact, light, and formed for activity. Some of them 
had European countenances and long curling hair. They were 
entirely naked, with the exception of the cocoa sash around 
the waist. They climbed up the sides of the vessel like mon- 
keys, and boarded us without ceremony. We ordered them 
into their canoes, and soon opened a brisk trade over the stern, 
exchanging our trinkets for their war implements, cocoanuts, 
plantains, yams, golopos, sweet potatoes, sago, &c. They 
were an enterprising, industrious, and warlike set of savages, 
and powerful enough to massacre the crew of an unarmed ves- 
sel with perfect ease. They spoke a language entirely differ- 
ent from that of Bidera. Retaining several of the chiefs on 
board as hostages, we visited the village, and were fairly borne 
upon the shoulders of the natives to the king's palace, where 
we were received with the usual ceremonies and exchange of 
presents. A good-looking woman invited us into her wig- 
wam, and showed us a wonderful natural curiosity, in the per- 
sons of her twin children, about four years old. One was a 
girl and the other a boy. They were well formed in every re- 
spect, except that the right arm of the boy and the left arm of 
the girl were wanting, and in place thereof they were united 
by a fleshy substance about one foot in length and four inches 
in diameter. 

The next day the natives surrounded us as usual, and were 
as noisy as ever. In the evening they invited us on shore to 
a grand dance, in which both sexes joined, upon the beach. 
Before dancing, however, they sported in the water, and had a 
grand swimming-match, during which they performed various 
comical feats and difficult evolutions, to the no small amuse- 
ment of the savages, who laughed and shouted as heartily as 
the sailors. 

The next day we got under way, and coasted around the 
southwest end of the island, following up its southeast side, 
steering northeast. We were in Shortland Strait, which is 
literally filled up with beautiful verdant and romantic islets, of 
all forms and sizes, forming a lovely and picturesque scenery. 
We had regular soundings, in from eighteen to nineteen fath- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



223 



oms water. At night we anchored in sixteen fathoms, near 
Bougainville Island, with three long, low islands in sight to the 
southward. The next day many savages surrounded us, and 
some came on board the vessel. They were, of course, much 
surprised at all they saw; we detected one of them stealing a 
piece of iron, which he had secreted in his net-bag. We took 
it away from him, and he left us much chagrined, amid the 
shouts and jeers of his companions. The canoes of this archi- 
pelago attracted my particular attention, as being different 
from any we had seen. They had no float or outrigger. 
Their model was that of a whale-boat, with a very high and 
pointed bow and stern, looking not unlike a crescent floating 
upon the water, with its convex side down and the horns point- 
ing up. They had considerable breadth of beam amidships, 
but still they were top-heavy, and not capable of riding in 
a sea-way. They had ribs and a keel, and were clincher- 
sheathed with thin boards, made of a wood that resembled 
mahogany, which were neatly secured to the ribs, and to each 
other, with lashings of split ratan. All the holes and seams 
were payed with a thick coating of gum copal. The stem and 
stern were highly ornamented with dangling white cypreas, 
and curiously inlaid with pearl-shell, that glittered in the sun- 
shine like gems and diamonds. The whole construction of 
these canoes reflected great credit upon the mechanical skill 
and ingenuity of these savages. 

The following drawing represents the canoe and war-clubs 
of Mendana Archipelago. 




The next morning we got under way, and soon found our- 
selves at the eastern mouth of the strait, where we encounter- 
ed dancing tide rips, formed by counter-currents setting through 
the strait. We steered across its mouth southeast, and in due 



224 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

time were close in with the northeast point of Baropee, along 
which we coasted on the east side, steering S.S.E. The land 
was mountainous, and broken into hills and valleys, all cover- 
ed with a primitive forest of various kinds of trees. We lay 
to and awaited the approach of canoes. They were soon 
alongside, filled with armed savages, some of whom came on 
board. We sustained a brisk and animated exchange with 
them for tortoise and pearl shell. One savage in a canoe 
amused us by showing the manner of twanging a bow, while 
those on board left the vessel and embarked in their canoes. 
A native on board hastily seized a hatchet that lay upon the 
trunk, and, brushing by the captain, leaped into the sea, swam 
to his canoe, put the hatchet into it, and was about getting in 
himself, when the captain levelled his rifle and shot him dead ! 
His companions lifted his corpse into the canoe, placed it 
alongside of the hatchet, and paddled away with the host of 
savages, who shouted wildly, and at length halted, apparently 
resolved to show fight. 

We squared away the yards, and they were soon out of sight 
astern. We coasted along to the southeastward, all night un- 
der easy sail, and in the morning found the land projecting 
far to the eastward, and terminating in a low point, off which 
lay one high island and several low ones, all of which were 
uninhabited and covered with verdure. We sailed between 
them and the main, and anchored near one of them, upon 
which we landed and marched into the interior, searching for 
sandal and other precious woods. The soil was productive, 
and the scenery and climate delightful. We arrived at a purl- 
ing stream with pebbly bottom, bathed ourselves, and stretch- 
ed our bodies in the shade upon a rock. On the next day, in 
the afternoon, we were opposite the east end of Manning's 
Strait, which was filled up with beautiful verdant islets, with- 
out number, and most of them uninhabited. We encountered 
strong currents and dancing tide rips. To the eastward lay a 
chain of dangerous coral reefs. It fell calm, and we were car- 
ried by the current among the romantic islets. We swept the 
vessel into a lovely cove and anchored, with our flying jib- 
boom fairly among the trees that lined the shore ; birds of 
splendid plumage and unknown species flew overhead. In 
the morning we again got under way, coasting east along the 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 225 

north shore of Soterimba, which seemed uninhabited ; but two 
straggling canoes, of inferior construction, were paddled along- 
side by savages, whose war implements were in keeping with 
their canoes ; they did not appear to possess the comforts, the 
pride, or the enterprise of the natives of Bougainville. We 
turned the northeast point of the island, and coasted S.E. by 
E. half E. along its east side. 

At night a striking phenomenon appeared upon the surface 
of the ocean. There were two stationary circles of phospho- 
rescent fire, that alternately and in rapid succession lighted up, 
and then subsided into the deep blue sea. We sailed through 
these circles, and the fire flashed around us. We supposed it 
to be caused by a submarine volcano. 

Two hours after midnight we were roused by the cry, " Hard 
a-lee !" and by the pitching of the vessel in a heavy ground 
swell, the roaring and dashing of breakers, the flapping of 
sails, the thumping of tack and sheet-block, and the tramping 
of the watch on deck ! By bold and difficult management, we 
just saved the vessel from being wrecked upon a dangerous 
coral reef, that stretches to the eastward from a small island 
that lies near the main. At daybreak we sailed between this 
island and the mainland of Soterimba, in which we discovered 
a secure little bay. We entered it, and anchored at its foot in 
sixteen fathoms water. No natives were seen, and the land 
was covered with a dense forest. We explored it in the 
squadron. In one spot, on some rocks, we found beautiful 
agate and flint ; at the foot we sailed over a beautiful patch of 
variegated corallines, that seemed like a submarine forest, with 
fish, of splendid colours, swimming between the foliage. The 
trunk of an enormous tree lay upon the beach. Upon the 
north shore we discovered two springs of pure, cool, soft wa- 
ter. Near the north entrance of the bay lies a singular rocky 
islet ; from it extends a coral reef, upon which the sea broke 
in lofty green combers. The mouth of the bay faces the east, 
and coral reefs, upon which the sea broke, extended off from 
either point. We entered, keeping in the very centre of the 
bay, and having regular soundings in from sixteen to twenty 
fathoms. It is secured from all winds and sea. I name it 
Irving Bay, after Washington Irving. 

We landed upon the north shore and cut wood. The next 



226 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

day we had taken in a full supply, together with a considerable 
number of small ants, that increased very fast, and soon be- 
came a pest on board. 

In the afternoon we filled the casks at the principal spring, 
which is worthy of note. About one hundred feet from the 
water's edge, on the skirts of the forest, is a bluff rock ; from 
crevices on the top of which the water gushes, meanders over 
the beach, and empties into the bay. In the sand, at the base 
of the rock, we dug a basin, from which we filled the casks. 
The water appeared slightly tinged with white ; but it proved 
to be good and wholesome, and kept well at sea. 

The next day we landed at the spring and washed our 
clothes, hanging them up to dry on lines that we stretched 
across the limbs of the trees. Several of us performed an ex- 
cursion into the interior. Ascending a hill, we came upon a 
beautiful, rich, rolling country, covered with a forest of stately 
trees, and saw the trails of hogs or deer, one of which we fol- 
lowed until it led us into a deep glen, where we discovered a 
cave, out of which sprang, and bounded away like lightning, a 
singular-looking animal, that might have been a baboon or a 
monkey. Entering the cave, we thought we had discovered 
the long-coveted gold-mine ; but it proved to be a bed of cop- 
per pyrites ; and, hearing strange and somewhat alarming 
noises from within, we hastily retreated, and returned to the 
washing party, who were stamping and singing most uproar- 
iously, 

" On a washing day, 
As the maids say," &c. 

During the whole of this time we had not seen any signs of 
inhabitants; but the next day a party of savages showed them- 
selves upon the south shore, holding up bananas and shouting 
for us to come and get them. We complied ; they ran away 
upon our approach, and left the bananas, which we took, and 
left presents in return. We found some beche-de-mer at the 
mouth of the bay, and took a bath on the north shore, where, 
in four feet water, we picked up some fine specimens of the 
terebra maculata, the terebra subulata, the trochus magnus, 
and the wintle-trap. 

The next morning we weighed anchor, sailed out of the bay, 
and coasted to the southeast, It was calm the latter part of 



IN THE TACIFIC OCEAN. 227 

the day and during the night. In the morning we were coast- 
ing S.S.E. 

The land is composed of hills and dales, covered with ver- 
dure, and presenting a charming picturesque scenery. Sev- 
eral indentures appear, like the mouths of secure bays. To 
the eastward lie one large and several small islands, which 
terminate in a sand-bank and dangerous coral reef. 

A fleet of canoes came alongside, filled with friendly na- 
tives ; they wore upon their heads a banana-leaf screen, that 
shielded the eyes and face from the direct rays of the sun. 
We anchored in a cove, and carried on a brisk trade with the 
natives. They valued their own pearl hooks more than ours, 
which were made of iron ; and, as a school of large fish were 
sporting upon the surface of the water, they proved to us that 
our hooks were of no service in taking them. Each canoe 
paddled swiftly among the sporting school, while one native 
in the stern skipped a pearl hook upon the surface of the wa- 
ter, by the assistance of a bamboo pole, to the end of which 
the hook was fastened with a short piece of string. The fish, 
mistaking the shining hook for a flying-fish, seized hold of it 
with avidity, and were thus made captive. These natives did 
not appear addicted to warfare ; they courted the more peace- 
ful vocations of agriculture and fishing. We landed at a vil- 
lage, and were kindly received by a wondering host of men, 
women, and children. The young women who were unmar- 
ried wore necklaces of small red seeds, and their hair was 
tastefully platted and ornamented with the leaves of ever- 
greens or fern. I was unable to discover any particular mar- 
riage ceremony among this tribe. If a youthful couple loved 
each other, when they attained the proper age they left their 
homes, built a wigwam, planted edible roots, and cast their lots 
together. 

On the morning of the second day we were under way. 
Leaving the southeast end of Soterimba, we took our depar- 
ture, steering S. by E. W T e soon found ourselves surrounded 
by beautiful verdant islands, of various forms and sizes, and 
apparently uninhabited. We sailed close by a singular rock, 
that rose abruptly from the sea, and presented the appearance 
of a ship under sail. The sea dashed against it. I named it 
Lookout Rock. Then we passed what seemed to be a vol- 



228 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

canic island, for steam issued from the crater upon its sum- 
mit. The lofty lands of Cambendo now appeared to view, 
filling up the horizon in the distance to the southward. The 
wind fell away, and we lay becalmed all night. In the morning 
we ran close in, and cruised along to the westward, on the 
north coast of Cambendo, which trends east and west. The 
beach of white sand was fringed by extensive groves of cocoa- 
nut-trees, beneath which was situated a large village. In the 
rear rose gentle undulations, mingled with valleys and dells, 
that were finally lost in the distance among lofty mountains. 
The scene presented to our view was that of a vast and lovely 
panoramic amphitheatre, spotted with gardens and grass-fields, 
charmingly interspersed with woodlands of fruit-bearing and 
other trees. Villages were scattered about upon the knolls 
and in the dells, beside rippling and silvery streams of water, 
and between the gardens wound numerous paths, upon which, 
with our telescopes, we saw naked groups of women and chil- 
dren, gazing at the dark hull, white sails, and tapering spars of 
the mysterious speck that floated upon the ocean. We lay 
for a long time becalmed. Hundreds of savages hurried along 
the beach, carrying implements of war, which they deposited 
in canoes, and then paddled with all expedition for the vessel. 
We cleared away for action ; the armorer ranged the fire- 
arms, and the top-men were aloft. In the hurry, one musket, 
in the hands of the armorer, was accidentally discharged, and 
the ball and buck-shot with which it was charged entered the 
deck near the foot of a sailor. The ocean was soon covered 
with canoes, filled with daring warriors, all well armed. They 
must have numbered at least one thousand. They surrounded 
us with a frightful din of voices, and began leaping on board. 
So great was the noise, that we could scarcely hear the orders 
of the captain, notwithstanding they were delivered through a 
trumpet. We drove the warriors into their canoes, at the 
point of our pikes, and compelled them to go astern. At 
length silence was restored, and the savages began to look 
upon us as warriors like themselves. A very large canoe, 
with horns as high as our bulwark, and paddled by twenty- 
eight savages, now approached the stern ; upon a platform in 
the centre sat Tarlaro, the king of Cambendo ; he was a large, 
6tout man, with many folds of wampum round his waist, and a 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 229 

variegated aigrette upon his head. He ratified a treaty of 
peace and commerce with the captain, by exchanging betle 
and presents. The host now shouted joyfully and entered into 
a brisk trade, which we sustained until evening, when they 
departed, after having exacted a promise from us to remain 
until to-morrow. We sailed into a cove and anchored. The 
pale moon lighted the splendid and fairy-like scenery of the 
amphitheatre, and the singing voices of the light-hearted chil- 
dren of nature pealed upon the ear, while their dark and ac- 
tive bodies were seen dancing round blazing fires. We forti- 
fied the vessel with awnings and nettings, stationed extra sen- 
tinels, and retired to repose. 

In the morning we were visited by Tarlaro and suite, who 
invited us on shore. Retaining on board several chiefs of note 
as hostages, we embarked in the Tempest, the painter of 
which was fastened to the stern of the king's war-canoe, which 
now paddled swiftly away with us in tow. The canoe struck 
the beach, the warriors leaped out shouting, surrounded our 
boat, which they seized, and carried us high and dry upon the 
beach. We disembarked and marched away, in company with 
Tarlaro and suite, followed by a curious mob of savages. We 
passed by a small collection of lodges, through a grove of co- 
coa and banana trees, from which we ascended a verdant 
knoll, covered with gardens, and entered a large village, situ- 
ated in a dell upon the skirts of a forest, and shaded by bread- 
fruit-trees, beneath which we seated ourselves upon mats. 
Upon our right sat the king and his chiefs, and upon the left 
their wives and daughters, some of whom wore tortoise-shell 
rings in their noses and ears, and pearl-shell crescents upon 
their breasts ; some had their hair painted red or white, and 
neatly combed back and tied behind. A host of gazing and 
wondering savages hemmed us in on all sides. It was evident 
that they were an active, enterprising, and warlike race. 

Tarlaro delivered a brief harangue, and was followed by sev- 
eral of the chiefs. The host appeared much pleased, and look- 
ed upon us as superior beings. We were feasted upon fruits, 
after which the women shouted and the savages formed a 
hollow square, into which frisked eleven aphrodite girls, deck- 
ed with bangles and scarlet, feathers. They were black para- 
gons, and, in smiling, showed all their ivory, as they formed 

U 



230 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTUBE8 

a circle and danced passionately round one of their number, 
who beat upon a neat little hog skin tum-tum while they all 
sang: 

" La-ma-re ru-ru !" 
Tum-tum, tum-tum. 

And then they kicked up a burlesque bobero that excited the 
laughter, and called forth the reiterated plaudits of the host, in 
which we heartily joined. The performance ended, we pre- 
sented the girls beads and nose-rings, and returned to the 
beach. 

Tarlaro and his warriors returned us safe on board the ves- 
sel. We made them many presents, and they returned to the 
shore as we got under way and coasted to the westward. It 
was night when we turned the northwest point of the island, 
and coasted the west shore, which trends N.W. and S.E. 
On the evening of the next day we took our departure, steer- 
ing south ; and as it was quite calm, we made but little head- 
way during the night. The next day we encountered a strong 
wind and rough sea, and were entirely out of sight of all land. 
" There she spouts !" shouted the look-out at the mast-head. 
"Where away!" " Box the compass !" Big black lumps, that 
spouted water into the air, lay floating around us. 

The next morning we were coasting to the southward, close 
upon the eastern shore of Rennel's Island, which rises ab- 
ruptly from the sea, and presents to view a perpendicular 
wall of rock, fifty feet or more high, and crowned upon its 
summit with trees and shrubs, thickly matted. No signs of 
the island being inhabited could be seen. The wind blew a 
gale, the sea was rough, and this was a lee shore ! The waves 
dashed and foamed against the adamantine wall, rising high in 
the air and recoiling fearfully, in vast sheets of foam and 
spoon-drift, that fell into the sea many yards from the cliff! 
The intrepidity and recklessness of the captain were conspic- 
uously displayed ; the vessel surged and plunged along among 
the very rollers, burying her bow in foam ; the spars and rig- 
ging strained and creaked ; the trysail gaff and boom danced 
up and down ; the helmsman handled the wheel with vigour, 
and the vessel, like a sprite of the ocean, battled safely through. 
At dark we were out of sight of all land. In the morning 
the look-out cried, " Canoe ahead !" We bore up to it, and 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 23], 

soon it was alongside. It contained a savage man and wom- 
an ; they implored us to save their lives ! We took them on 
board, treated them kindly, and gave them food and drink. 
They told us that they had been driven away from their isl- 
ands, during the prevalence of a rain-squall, and had not tasted 
food or drink for two days. When they saw the vessel, they 
took it to be some monster coming to destroy them. We 
passed the slings round their canoe, hitched on the tackles, 
and hoisted it on deck. Garry took them into the cabin and 
gave them fruit. They represented to us the direction whence 
the squall had driven them upon the boundless ocean. We 
trimmed the sails and steered to the northward; during the 
night we tacked to the east and then to the west. " Land ho !" 
shouted the look-out at daybreak. It was a new discovery. 
The savages were delighted, as they recognised their own 
beloved islands, which are named Rikoneko. We sailed in 
among them, and anchored in a beautiful lagoon, near a small 
village, but no inhabitants could be seen. We hoisted the ca- 
noe overboard, placed the savages into it, together with pres- 
ents of trinkets. They paddled on shore and soon returned, 
followed by canoes filled with men, women, and children, who 
presented us fruits, and thanked us kindly for having saved the 
lives of their kindred. On the following morning we were 
again under way upon the ocean. 

Two days after we sighted Cape Oriental and Deliverance 
Islands, between which we sailed. A dangerous reef puts off 
from the main. A beautiful little bay appeared in view, with 
its mouth shielded by a remarkable natural breakwater of 
rocks. The shores of Deliverance Island are lined with beau- 
tiful groves of cocoanut and palm trees. Canoes filled with 
savages came alongside and presented us fruit, while at the 
same time they invited us on shore to their wigwams, for they 
said their wives and daughters would be pleased to see us. 
We anchored and remained over night, when we again got 
under way. The natives followed us in their canoes quite out 
of sight of land. We made them presents, and they would 
not leave us until we promised to call and see them again. 
Garry seemed to have fallen in love with one of our female 
visiters, and was strongly tempted to bi^ her and take her to 
Bidera. We encountered dancing tide rips, and were soon out 



232 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

of sight of land, cruising in different directions to the eastward 
and southward. 

" Land ho !" cried the look-out on the third day after. It 
was Nitendi, an island discovered by La Perouse. Its west 
end is situated in latitude 11° 11' 15" S., longitude 165° 4' 30" 
E. We coasted the shore and anchored in a cove, where we 
saw wigwams upon a hill. 

The next day savages made their appearance upon the 
beach, armed with spears, and motioning us to depart. We 
landed ; they retreated up the hill towards the wigwams, and 
we followed them closely, entering the village, while the in- 
habitants took to their heels and fled into the forest, along the 
skirts of which we saw them reconnoitring. We endeav- 
oured to entice them towards us, but all our efforts proved to 
be in vain. At length the captain, Garry, and two of the crew, 
well provided with trinkets and fire-works, walked, unarmed, 
towards the forest, making friendly signs. The savages now 
seemed to be friendly, and came out to meet them, all armed 
with spears. When they drew near, they suddenly assumed a 
hostile attitude, and threatened to attack the party. The sun 
shone brightly upon a mirror, and the captain, with great pres- 
ence of mind and firmness, directed the dazzling reflected ray 
into the eyes of the savage chief. He was for a moment 
blinded ; his spear fell from his hands, his followers recoiled 
in wonder, for the " white king 1 ' had performed a mighty mir- 
acle in causing the sun to change its position ! At this criti- 
cal juncture, one of the party touched off a blue-light and a 
pack of fire-crackers. The savages wheeled round like light- 
ning, and bounded out of sight into the forest. We returned 
on board, and were soon under way upon the ocean, steering 
S.E. half S. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

At noon on the second day we sighted Bligh's Islands, and 
then, steering S.S.W., upon the evening of the fifth day we 
entered the Bay of St. Philip Espirito Santo, the largest of 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 233 

the Quiros Archipelago. We anchored near the beach, and 
the next day carried on a brisk trade with the savages, who 
surrounded us in canoes. They were stout, well-made ne- 
groes, and wore nothing but the cocoa girdle or sash around 
the waist. They were not skilful seamen, as was evident in 
the management of their canoes, which were mean affairs, 
made of a hollow log with float and outrigger. 

On the following day hostages were retained on board, and 
we accompanied the chiefs to their village, where we were 
kindly treated. I showed a loquacious young woman some 
samples of gold and gold-dust (they happened to be brass and 
filings of the same). She said the latter abounded in a mount- 
ain stream in the interior, and promised to send her brother to 
get some for me. 

The next day, when the anchor was apeak, she came along- 
side and presented me a folded banana-leaf that contained 

what W and myself firmly believed to be gold-dust, mixed 

with sand. We intended to keep it to ourselves, but the cap- 
tain, who was on the look-out for such things, politely pock- 
eted it, and pleased the young woman greatly by presenting 
her a beautiful gold (brass) ear-ring, by way of payment. We 
were soon coasting to the northward, and the next day to the 
southward, along the west shore of Espirito Santo. The land 
is formed of craggy mountains, which rise abruptly from the 
sea in denuded pinnacles, that are gashed into chasms by the 
mountain torrents, that here and there form startling cascades, 
the waters of which become lost to view as they meander 
through the dense foliage that is nourished upon the gently- 
sloping strips of alluvial at the mouth of the chasms or val- 
leys, after which they are again brought to sight, tumbling 
into the sea. This part of the coast seemed uninhabited. The 
southwest end of the island is formed of low, level land, which 
is covered with a dense forest of various kinds of trees and 
shrubs. 

The next day we were coasting the west side of Mallicollo. 
The scenery is charming and picturesque. The land slopes up 
gradually to mountains, covered with verdant prairies and 
woodlands. So deep is the water close in shore, that we al- 
most grazed the land in sailing along. We saw no inhabitants. 
Late in the afternoon, we sailed across the mouth of a fine bay, 



234 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

steering for a small island, situated off a peninsula. It was 
Port Sandwich, the place where Captain Cook anchored. 
Eearly next morning we were steering east, along the south 
side of Mallicollo. Vast groves of cocoanut and other fruit- 
bearing trees are scattered about in all directions. We passed 
outside of two small islands, which lie near the main, and are 
composed of a rich and bounteous soil, which is covered with 
fruit-trees. A great sand-shoal extended out to seaward, and 
upon it stood a host of savages, with spears and clubs in their 
hands. They yelled wildly, and ordered us, by signs, to depart. 

By a strange fatality, this rich and beautiful country, situ- 
ated in one of the most healthy regions of the world, and en- 
joying a climate not to be surpassed, if equalled, is in the pos- 
session of negroes ; while white men toil from morn till night 
in cold and barren countries for a mere subsistence ! 

At night we coasted along the west end of Apee, and in the 
morning lay becalmed among a numerous cluster of islets, of 
all forms and sizes. Some towered up abruptly from the sea, 
and one looked like the extinguished crater of a volcano. 
Round about, and close to us, sported and spouted those valu- 
able leviathans of the deep, sperm whales, and their playful 
calves. Next we coasted the west and south sides of Sand- 
wich Island. The land was undulating and moderately ele- 
vated ; the scenery verdant and lovely. The south coast was 
dotted with groves of cocoanut-trees, an invariable sign of in- 
habitants, whose numbers singularly correspond with the num- 
ber of trees. But we saw no human beings, and one would 
have imagined that the island was uninhabited. At night, 
however, when off the southeast end, we saw bale-fires burn- 
ing and heard turn-turns beating. We thought that these sim- 
ple-hearted children of nature might have been imposed upon 
in some way by some white men, and hence their enmity to 
us. Natives have been cruelly made captive and torn from 
their homes, and islands have been discovered of which the 
world knows not. That vast region of country, or chain of isl- 
ands, situated between the tropic of Capricorn and the tropic 
of Cancer, and between the continents of Asia and America, 
compose the garden of the world ! and many of them are yet 
unknown. Several different islands in the Pacific bear the 
name of Sandwich. Captain Cook accomplished more to- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 235 

wards effecting a thorough exploration of the Quiros Archipel- 
ago than any other man, but he did but a tithe of what remains 
to be accomplished. 

The next day we coasted the west and south sides of Erro- 
manga. We sailed within a stone's throw of the land, which 
is mountainous, and rises in steep, rocky cliffs, that are cov- 
ered with a stinted verdure of grass and trees. In scattering 
dells the soil seemed quite productive, and we heard the 
shouting of native voices, but saw nothing except little clouds 
of smoke rising into the air. 

The Rev. John Williams, some years since, was most bar- 
barously massacred by the savages upon this island ; his body 
was roasted and eaten ! With one hundred men, or even less, 
properly equipped, if an object of sufficient importance was to 
be gained, I should feel morally certain of being able to con- 
quer the inhabitants, and of bringing them into the most com- 
plete subjection. 

The next day we coasted the east side of Tanna, passing out- 
side of the flat island of Inmer, and saw several islands not 
marked on the chart. We sailed close in to the shore of Tan- 
na, and hove to directly in front of the volcano. Not far from 
the beach was a bluff hill, that appeared to have been rent vi- 
olently asunder in different places. Between it and the lofty 
mountain in the rear, in a kind of valley, was situated the vol- 
cano, upon low ground. It grumbled gently at intervals, and 
sent up a cloud of black smoke and red flames into the air. 
Between the gashed hill and the beach was situated a village. 
Nothing can exceed the fertility of the soil upon this island. 
It is composed of a rich black and gray loam. Flourishing 
groves of cocoanut, bread-fruit, banana, shaddock, and various 
other fruit-bearing trees and shrubs were scattered about the 
mountain slopes and in the rural dells, dividing well-cultivated 
gardens of yams, sweet potatoes, sugar-cane, and other ve- 
getables. What a paradise for a home ! 

A host of savage men, women, and children stood upon the 
beach, hallooing for us to come on shore. A heavy surf tum- 
bled upon the beach, that swamped and dashed about the frail 
canoes in which they attempted to put off. They were evi- 
dently peaceful tillers of the soil, and looked not to the chase 
for subsistence. They were inexperienced seamen, and their 



236 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

canoes were nothing more than rough logs, scooped out and 
steadied by an outrigger and float. 

It fell calm, and the vessel was thrown, by the ground- 
swell, in dangerous proximity to the land. We swept her off 
a short distance. Two canoes succeeded in getting safely 
through the surf, though filled with water. The natives, 
while overboard, baled them out, and then paddled alongside 
the vessel. Most of the fruit with which their canoes had 
been loaded was lost overboard ; they, however, gave us the 
remnants, which consisted of cocoanuts, mammoth yams, and 
the finest sugar-cane that I ever saw in any part of the world. 
We invited these simple-hearted and honest natives on board, 
and made them presents. They came unarmed, and were 
stout, good-looking negroes. Here they are perfect lords of 
the soil. Their government is strictly patriarchal ; the ties of 
relationship are considered sacred, and they pay great respect 
to the opinions of the aged. 

A gentle breeze wafted us into a harbour to the northward, 
where we cast anchor and held communication with the na- 
tives. 

Two days after we were coasting the west side of Annatom. 
Near the sea, the land is covered with cocoanut and other 
trees, but farther back it rises into elevated mountains, of 
denuded and indurated clay, gashed by the washing of tor- 
rents. A coral reef encircles the shore, and the sea broke 
heavily upon it. Savages stood gazing at us; we hove to and 
invited them to come off. They attempted to do so, but most 
of their canoes were dashed upon the reef and their outriggers 
splintered. Some, however, got off safely, and paddled around 
to look at us like honest children of nature. We told them 
that we wanted fruit. They paddled for the shore, and speed- 
ily returned with cocoanuts and taro, which they threw on 
board. We presented them beads and iron ; and, after they 
had gratified their curiosity, we bade them a kind farewell. 
They were entirely unarmed, except that in one canoe we saw 
a sling and wooden spear. 

We now made all snug, and placed the vessel in a seawor- 
thy condition, preparatory to encountering the cold and disa- 
greeable storms of the ocean south of the tropic of Capricorn. 

In the morning we were out of sight of land, and steering 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 237 

S. by E. for Eahei Nomawee, which was 870 geographic miles 
distant. Next day we made rapid headway, with a strong 
gale from the N.E. The next day it blew a tempest from 
N.N.W., accompanied by a dangerous chop-sea. A wave 
pooped the vessel, wrenched the ring-bolts out of the jolly- 
boat that hung by the davits, and bore her away out of sight. 
The foresail was shivered into rags, the fore-topsail sheet 
carried away, and the sail shivered from the yard. The fore- 
peak-span gave way, and the peak fell upon deck, knocking 
me and a shipmate violently against the bulwark. At mid- 
night the wind chopped suddenly round to S. by E., blowing a 
gale. We lay to with the jib-boom pointing E. by S., latitude 
25° 25' S., longitude 171° 20' E., for three successive days. On 
the fourth day the gale moderated, so that we set the foresail, 
the close-reefed fore and main topsails, and the balance-reefed 
main trysail. 

" My soul is like the sea, that cannot rest, 
And while my eyes their nightly vigils keep, 
Strange visions flit upon the deep blue wave — 
Visions that seem to tell of childhood's hours. 
The gale whistles through the shrouds the name of mother ! 
Bless'd word ! bless'd thought ! have I a mother yet, 
That for her reckless sailor-boy doth pray ? 
Or have those silver locks, bow'd down with care, 
Found in the grave that rest the holy share ?" 

Next day we were in latitude 20° 00' S., longitude 171° or E. 

Next day, latitude 27° 41' S., longitude 171° 30' E. 

Our progress became very difficult and slow, for the wind 
had settled into a steady breeze from the S.E. This induced 
the captain to change the plan of his operations ; and he de- 
termined to make the best of his way for Australia. Accord- 
ingly, we squared away, under a press of canvass, steering 
S.W. by W. 

" Land, ho !" cried the look-out, on the following day. 

We saw the northeast coast of Norfolk Island. It was com- 
posed of steep and elevated clay cliffs. A hill in the centre 
of the island was covered with gigantic pine-trees, that form- 
ed a conspicuous object. We saw a frame house, built in the 
European style, and two tents. Anchorage can be obtained 
upon the lee or west side of the island, where the land slopes 
gradually down to the sea. This island was discovered in 



238 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

1774, by Captain Cook. He found it uninhabited. Near its 
south side are situated two islets, named Philip and Nepean. 
The British government now occupy Norfolk Island as a penal 
settlement. All convicts who are banished from England to 
Sydney, or. as some incorrectly say, to " Botany Bay," if they 
prove incorrigible, and transgress the laws of the country of 
their banishment, are finally transported to Norfolk Island, 
there to become galley-slaves, and with no hope of return. A 
governor and regiment of soldiers are stationed upon the isl- 
and ; and it is expected that no vessel will stop at this ocean- 
prison, except she is in distress, and then she must communi- 
cate with the shore according to strict martial law. It seem- 
ed strange that a nation on the other side of the world should 
here build a prison ; but stranger things than these are destined 
to take place in this region of the globe. 

We took our departure, steering W. by S. We crossed 
over the supposed situation of Golden Grove and Middleton 
Shoals, but saw them not. We found a strong current set- 
ting to the northeast. On the morning of the seventh day 
after leaving Norfolk Island, we sighted Sugar-loaf Point, 
Australia. It was composed of three conical hills, that seem- 
ed to be islets. Coasting to the southward, we passed Port 
Stephen and Port Hunter. The land was variously formed. 

The next morning we lay becalmed in a fog off the mouth of 
Broken Bay. A clipper sloop danced out of the bay before a 
land-breeze, and disappeared to seaward like a vision. The 
fog cleared away, and we had a more clear view of the land. 
It was formed of steep rocky promontories, with intermediate 
hollows, that sloped down to sandy beaches. The soil was 
clayey and barren. Here and there, however, were scattered 
stinted clumps of trees or underwood. 

We are now dashing along with a cracking breeze and all 
sail set. The light-house upon South Sydney Head hove in 
sight ; a pilot came off in a whale-boat, and we soon anchored 
in Port Jackson, near Pinch Gut Island, in view of the town 
and cove of Sydney. Here we sold some of our curiosities 
and other articles obtained at the islands. Rats and cock- 
roaches, the progeny of a famous breed that we had shipped 
at Mauritius from the hulks, had now become a complete nui- 
sance on board. We discharged most of the cargo, and smoked 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 23& 

the vessel completely with charcoal, sulphur, and quicksilver. 
After this we gave her a thorough overhauling and painting, 
so that she again looked like a new craft, and was the admira- 
tion of the citizens of Sydney. 

It is generally conceded that the harbour of Port Jackson is 
one of the most spacious and secure in the world. Its en- 
trance is unobstructed by any bar, and is formed by a nar- 
row canal, cut through solid rock. You enter it at once 
from the deep-blue ocean, and on each side rises a steep 
rocky wall, hundreds of feet in height. Steering west, and 
hugging the north shore of this wonderful canal, you soon 
turn to the south, passing to the west of a rocky reef, upon 
which is a signal. Two horizontal windmills soon heave in 
sight, together with the house of Captain Piper, and several 
gentlemen's villas. Soon you turn to the west, and before 
you opens the noble harbour, with its tortuous windings, its 
outspread arms, its coves and indentations. Passing Garden 
and Pinch Gut Islands, you see the city of Sydney, upon a 
hilly peninsula that lies between Sydney Cove and Darling 
Harbour. Upon either side of the entrance to the latter cove 
is situated a fort. The country round about is rocky, clayey, 
and sterile ; there is nothing here to recommend the place ex- 
cept the harbour. 

Sydney is quite a large town, and is rapidly increasing in 
buildings and population. Some of the old houses are little, 
low wooden buildings, closely huddled together ; but the 
streets are now regularly laid out, and spacious three and four 
story brick and stone buildings have lately been erected. The 
stone is a peculiar white freestone, obtained from quarries that 
abound in the vicinity. A creek separates the town and emp- 
ites into Sydney Cove. In the latter cove the shipping lay 
moored stem and stern ; at its foot is a jetty, and on its west 
side is the king's wharf, upon which is a large crane for un- 
lading boats. Near it are several other wharves, but vessels 
lying by them at low water are aground. 

As the town extends gradually across the peninsula, Darling 
Harbour begins to assume more importance in a commercial 
point of view, and upon it have been constructed several 
wharves, at which whale-ships refit ; a great number of them 
put in here for this purpose. George-street traverses the cen- 



240 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

tre of the town, and is the Broadway of Sydney. Upon it are 
situated the theatre, the jail, a splendid brick market, and the 
barracks. The latter occupies a large block of ground, which 
was once out of town, but the buildings have increased so fast 
that it is now in the centre of the place, and there was some 
talk of removing it. A monumental sundial stood in front of 
the barracks, and beside it I frequently stationed myself to lis- 
ten to the music of the grand band, and to witness the relief of 
the guard, and the marching of the royal army, which was 
composed of noble-looking men, in the prime of life. All 
kinds of mechanical business appeared to be briskly followed 
here. A Yankee tin pedler, who had started on a pleasure 
trip around the world, was temporarily domiciliated here, with 
a patent machine in active operation, that turned out tin-ware 
in any quantity. Some of the most wealthy and respectable 
men in the place are reformed convicts, who have made them- 
selves by their industry and integrity. 

As the population increases in wealth, they begin to enjoy 
luxuries. Some have imported phaetons, curricles, and blood 
horses. And in the dwellings of some I remarked musical 
pictures, chimney lustres, chandeliers, pier-glasses, mosaic 
branches, purfled ottomans, and bird organs. Boots, shoes, 
clothing, furniture, &c, are generally imported. 

The rocky islet in Neutral Roads, named Pinch Gut, is so 
called from the circumstance of a convict who had committed 
a heinous offence during the foundation of the colony having 
been chained upon it and starved to death. 

Notwithstanding the barren nature of the soil in the vicinity 
of Sydney, art has done much towards forming several hand- 
some gardens. Opposite Garden Island, and east of the town, 
is a promontory covered with cedar-trees. This is called the 
Government Domain, and winding carriage roads run through 
it. On Sundays it is the strolling-park of the citizens. It 
commands a view of the noble harbour, and upon the face of 
the cliff is a natural stone couch, which was the favourite re- 
sort of Lady Macquarie, the beautiful and accomplished wife 
of the first governor of Sydney. Here she sat for hours al- 
most every day, absorbed in revery, gazing at the blue waters 
of the bay, and thinking of the vicissitudes of fortune which 
had led her to leave her beloved home, on the other side of the 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 241 

world, to settle in Australia. I too stretched myself upon the 
couch, and gazed at the sylph-like form, tapering spars, and 
blood-red ports of the vessel, and the muzzles of those cannon 
that had thus far protected us from massacre and death, as our 
craft rode majestically at anchor, with the stars and stripes 
waving in the breeze at her main-peak. 

A beautiful Russian ship-of-war (American built) lay an- 
chored near Pinch Gut ; she was bound on an exploring cruise 
up the Sea of Okhotsk and along the coast of Kamschatka. A 
handsome and trim little clipper sloop lay anchored in Neutral 
Road ; she was owned and commanded by Captain Dillon, the 
author of a book of voyages, disclosing and describing the fate 
of La Perouse. Captain D. is a large, fat, jolly man, and had 
with him a tattooed savage ; he traded to nameless islands, 
and still finds his business very profitable. 

On the east side of the main road that leads south from the 
town, and near a toll-gate, is situated a very fine horticultural 
garden, that was established many years ago, and, I believe, 
affords the proprietor a handsome revenue. From it we ob- 
tained grape-vines and trees to plant in Australasia. Passing 
through the toll-gate, I met a great many wagons and carts, 
slowly wending their way towards the town, loaded with 
wood and provisions. Several handsome grass-fields, fenced 
with posts and rails, were to be seen on either hand. In wet 
weather the roads are very muddy, and in dry, if the wind 
blows strong from the south, which it frequently does in the 
winter, the citizens of Sydney are almost blinded with clouds 
of sand and dust blown from Goulburn Plains. Small oysters 
abound upon the rocks in the harbour, and many a feast did we 
make upon them. Fish are also numerous ; we caught them in 
abundance by attaching half a dozen baited hooks to an iron 
hoop and sinking it in a horizontal position. A prison-ship, 
for the reception of convicts lately arrived, lay moored in the 
harbour. But the principal convict establishment is at Para- 
matta, where many of the convicts are employed at cultivating 
the crown lands. The celebrated convict, George Barrington, 
in 1800 was high-constable of the latter place, and faithfully 
discharged his arduous duties, to the complete satisfaction of 
the government. Some of the convicts work on the public 
roads, and are dressed in flaunting yellow trousers and blue or 

X 



242 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURE^ 

red shirts ; the contrast between these colours is so great that 
a prisoner is known a mile off. This uniform is adopted to 
prevent their escape. Many of the convicts are apprenticed, 
to serve out the period of their banishment, to farmers and 
mechanics throughout the colony. If they behave them- 
selves and serve out their time faithfully, they are then free, 
and can commence business on their own account. But if they 
prove refractory, they are again imprisoned or transported for 
life to Norfolk Island. The soil from Sydney ten miles west- 
ward is composed of a thin mould, mixed with sand, and is 
very poor. At Paramatta it is somewhat deeper, and mixed 
with clay, but it seldom produces more than twelve or fourteen 
bushels of wheat to the acre. Four miles from Paramatta is 
situated Toungabie, a settlement where a large number of 
convicts are engaged in cultivating several hundreds of acres 
of crown lands, and in tending large herds of government sheep 
and cattle. Here the soil is somewhat richer, and produces 
twenty bushels of wheat to the acre. Sixteen miles west of 
the latter place is situated a settlement upon the alluvial lands 
of the River Hawkesbury. The soil here is composed of a 
rich, black loam, eight feet deep, and is decidedly the richest 
of any in the colony. It is, however, of but small extent, and 
is subject to occasional overflows during the prevalence of 
freshets. The soil on either side of the bottom-lands is a stiff 
clay, but it improves by cultivation. 

The male population of the colony much exceeds that of the 
female, and many a worthy young bachelor is mourning over 
the want of a suitable wife ; some have married native or ne- 
gro women. An importation of white maidens would find a 
good market, and I am surprised that no Yankee has under- 
taken this speculation. 

Speculation in town lots and farms ran high at the time of 
our visit. Every day sales of property took place in Sydney, 
and flaming hand-bills and painted maps proclaimed the value 
of different farms. The government reserves to itself the 
right of working all mines of coal and precious metals that 
may be discovered upon lands sold. Upon attending the land 
sales, and hearing the conversation of those assembled, I al- 
most imagined myself in some of our Western towns, such as 
Maumee City, Chicago, or Galena. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 243 

Fresh beef in Sydney is cheap, but vegetables are dear. 
Many potatoes are imported from New Zealand and Van Die- 
man's Land, and sell for £8 per ton. Fresh butter is very dear, 
and sells from 2s. 6d. to 3s. sterling per pound. Flour was 
$12 per barrel, and wheat $2 a bushel at the mills. A Yankee 
made some money by importing flour, furniture, and other no- 
tions from the United States. Sugar is imported from the 
Burman Empire and from Mauritius, and sells for £24 per ton. 
Wool is the grand exporting staple of the colony, and sells for 
Is. 8d. and Is. 2d. per pound. It has been profitably exported 
to the United States. At the present time the chance for Yan- 
kee speculation here has no doubt gone by ; for the colony now 
probably raises all its own bread-stuff. The English here ad- 
here to the old customs so successfully followed at home, and 
their fondness for a "mug of beer" is undiminished by trans- 
portation. There are several beer distilleries in the colony. 

In spite of severe laws and strict discipline, many of the 
most daring and worthless of the convicts run away and seek 
refuge in the wilderness among the savages. They build 
thatched huts in secluded places, take to themselves one or 
two native women each, and live by the chase. These daring 
men, the pirates and highwaymen of England, form them- 
selves into sworn clans, known here by the name of " Bush Ran- 
gers," who, in combination with the savages, frequently fall 
upon the frontiers of the colony to rob, to outrage, and to mas- 
sacre. The mongrel or mulatto children of the Bush Rangers 
are perhaps destined to form a new race of men, that will peo- 
ple the interior of this vast island continent, and who will 
hereafter be a source of much trouble to the British colony. 
The principal part of the colonists being composed of single 
men, or, rather, men without any wives or children in the col- 
ony, it is not to be expected that transportation should have 
entirely reformed their moral character, after having been 
from infancy associated with the most vile in their mother- 
country, where they composed the most depraved part of the 
community. The population of Sydney are much addicted to 
the use of spirituous liquors and tobacco, and are given to 
gambling and horse-racing. Crimes, too, of the most heinous 
kinds are not unfrequently committed. The streets of Syd- 
ney are unpaved, except here and there a narrow stone side- 



244 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

walk, and, not being lighted at night, they are dismally dark. 
Many a night have I groped my way along them, striving in 
vain to penetrate their mysteries. The police is of the most 
efficient kind, and they frequently brushed by with lanterns 
and drawn cutlasses. Some act as mounted men, and have 
fleet horses ready saddled to run down fugitives. 

I was at once struck with the vast number of tippling-shops, 
porter-houses, or taverns. The greater part of the houses had 
signs hung out with the following inscription upon them in 
letters : " Licensed to retail Wine and Spirituous Liquors." Pen- 
etrating the mysteries of some of these houses, in disguise, in 
the by-ways upon the hill, I encountered women of abandoned 
character, dancing with men of the same stamp, and groups of 
male and female gamblers, listening to the music discoursed 
by little bells, while smoking tobacco and sipping beer. 

As tobacco sells for a high price here, some " philanthro- 
pists" have attempted to cultivate it in the colony. A grand 
race between two celebrated blood horses was to come off, in 
a few days, upon the course in Golburn Plains. It was the 
theme of every conversation ; and the first question put to me 
in every tippling-shop was, " What horse do you bet on 1 
stake your money! take a glass o 1 som-e-t to drink?" The 
great day arrived, and the whole town was seen moving to- 
wards the race-course, intermingled with carts and wagons 
loaded with beer, spirituous liquors, eatables, gamblers, and 
rum-heads. 

The state of the colony is thus seen to be bad enough ; but 
its moral atmosphere is rapidly improving, and nothing tends 
to promote it more than the philanthropic exertions of the 
Australian Patriotic Association, in combination with the gov- 
ernment, who were about putting in force some plan to en- 
courage the emigration of respectable families. It has gener- 
ally been remarked, that children who arrive here with their 
parents, and are brought up in the domestic circle under pa- 
rental control, imbibe a moral principle sufficiently powerful 
to resist the temptations that surround them, and become 
worthy members of society; being not only controlled by the 
laws, like the convicts, but, in addition, by an inborn feeling of 
honesty and integrity, and by some respect for their family 
connexions It has generally been admitted that maiden em- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 245 

igrants attached to families have been successful. The lands 
of the colony being admirably adapted to grazing, there is 
every reason to suppose that an emigrant family, consisting of 
any number of children of both sexes, could find employment 
in tending cattle-stations, which occupation requires no great 
strength of body or mental endowments. A family thus occu- 
pied would, no doubt, be bound together by social ties, and 
thus, in all probability, prevent that moral contamination 
which intercourse with a convict population might naturally 
produce. And as the children of such a family would never, 
perhaps, leave the tutelage of their parents, until at least they 
had arrived at mature years, they would be likely to become, 
in the end, useful members of society. 

Australia (for this is the proper name of what has improp- 
erly been named New Holland) is of such vast size that it 
scarcely seems proper to call it an island. It is as really a 
continent as America, Europe, or Asia ; they are all surround- 
ed by water or ice, which is, in fact, the same thing. We 
will, then, say that the Continent of Australia is as yet almost 
totally unknown to civilized man, and affords a vast field for 
explorations. It is my firm belief that the British have planted 
their colonies upon the poorest parts of the continent. To 
the northward of the twenty-fifth degree of south latitude, 
probably, is situated the finest part of this country. The gov- 
ernment was, however, guided by a desire to send the convicts 
to a climate as similar as possible to the one of their nativity. 
Convicts are excluded from the Swan River settlement. 
From the report of the Malays of Tidore, whom we afterward 
met in Revenge Strait, Papua, I was led to suppose that the 
ruins of cities, built by Arabians, exist upon the northwest or 
north coast of Australia, or around the Gulf of Carpentaria ; 
and that the nation which built the towers of which these are 
the ruins were once numerous and powerful, and held the ne- 
gro race in bondage, and that their vessels traversed the Pa- 
cific Ocean. If this report is true, that part of Australia prob- 
ably affords a fine field for the researches of the antiquarian, 
and may lead him to some definite conclusion in relation to 
the manner in which the islands of the Pacific became peo- 
pled. I sincerely hope that the British government will spend 
some of its treasure in carrying on more critical explorations 

X2 



246 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTUIlErf 

of this country than have ever yet been made. It may event- 
ually lead to the clearing up of the mystery of the manner in 
which America was settled, by the discovery of a style of ar- 
chitecture in this benighted land corresponding to that of the 
ruins of Central America. Besides, if the stories of these 
Malays, who have visited Australia in their proas, are to be 
believed, vast rivers, of which the civilized world know not, 
exist, in that continent. 

Be this as it may, one thing is quite certain, that the British 
colonies upon Australia will not retrograde for hundreds of 
years to come ; and it is no unreasonable speculation to sup- 
pose that a vast empire of Englishmen will here rise up and 
take an important stand, at some distant day, as an independ- 
ent nation. Every year will probably add to our knowledge 
of the beauties and wonders of Australia and of Australasia. 
All this region has heretofore been passed over entirely too 
lightly, owing to our ignorance in relation to it. 

During the months of June, July, and August, it is quite cold 
at Sydney, particularly on those days when the winds blow 
from the south. We happened to arrive here at the com- 
mencement of winter, and felt the cold very sensibly. We 
wished ourselves back in Tropical Australasia, for here we 
were obliged to resort to woollen clothing, and to shoes, to 
keep ourselves comfortable. The use of the latter article 
gave us no little pain ; we had gone barefooted so long that all 
our shoes were too small for us ; we walked like cripples on 
shore, and kicked them off when we got on board the vessel 
again. And when we had to hunt up all the old blankets to 
wrap around us in our hammocks, the sailors continually 
vexed one another by praying for a return to the delights of a 
tropical climate. We had also just left a verdant and fruitful 
region, the contrast between which and the barren scenery of 
Port Jackson was so remarkable, that we most heartily wished 
ourselves away and back to the " Cannibal Islands," as the 
crew were in the habit of calling them. 

I never saw a man yet who said that he was not delighted 
with, and did not prefer, the climate of the Tropical Pacific 
Islands to that of any part of the world. 

A custom-house officer was stationed on board our vessel 
during our stay here. He was a very fine man, and as good- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 247 

natured an old soul as ever lived. But he liked a drop of the 
right good " brandy-o," and every afternoon took a siesta. 
The sailors knew his failing, and one said to the other, " Has 
the old covy turned in ?" " Ay," was the reply. Presently 
the sailors were seen coming from the forecastle with bundles 
of tobacco, which they smuggled into the stern sheets of the 
boat, and then shoving off, pulled for the shore, for a genuine 
sailor's frolic. 

A British vessel arrived here during our stay, and reported 
having discovered a continent to the southward of Van Die- 
man's Land. We dressed Garry-Garry in a suit of the cap- 
tain's old clothes, put stockings and slippers upon his feet, and 
a white beaver upon his head, and then took him ashore in the 
" Moon" (Sydney) to see the wonders. He stopped at some 
of the shop windows full half an hour, examining the curiosi- 
ties, while we waited patiently for him in the street. A fish- 
monger had some fine preserved fish displayed in his window ; 
these Garry inspected very closely. Passing by a brick build- 
ing that was in course of erection, he picked up a brick, and, 
laughing heartily, exclaimed, " Build tuonger out of clay all 
the same as Bidera pots !" He said he would explain these 
wonders to his people, and determined to carry the brick home 
to show them. Accordingly, he put the brick under his arm 
and carried it carefully through the streets, to the no small 
wonder of the passers by, and to the amazement of the store- 
keepers, whom Garry requested to show some of their curi- 
osities, as he laid the brick carefully upon the counter. In 
front of a four-story building, he halted and looked up at the 
gutter, in speechless wonder, for a few moments, when he ex- 
claimed, " How can stand up ! wonder he no fall down ! him 
as high as cocoanut-tree !" The next mysterious thing that 
brought him to a dead stand was a man on horseback, and a 
party of ladies and gentlemen in a barouche, who drove rapidly 
by. He thought these were the white men's gods, or the gods 
of the moon. 

The music of the government band and the marching of the 
royal army were to him so mysterious that he could not, for 
the life of him, fathom their purport. When we told him that 
the storekeepers lived all their lifetime in stores, he at once 
expressed his abhorrence of such a life of laziness ; wondered 



248 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

that they did not get sick for want of exercise in the open air, 
and finally concluded that they must be worthless fellows, to 
voluntarily coop themselves up in their dark wigwams. We 
took him to the theatre ; the performance was the " Stranger" 
and " Raising the Wind." W T e had much trouble to keep him 
still and prevent him from making his remarks in a loud tone 
before the audience. On Sunday we took him to church ; 
when the parson prayed, he sat bolt upright and laughed at 
the audience ; we were obliged to push him down into a pray- 
ing attitude. W T e took him into the country, and showed him 
a farmer ploughing the ground. He thought that the plough 
would be a valuable instrument to cultivate the plantations of 
Bid era. We showed him the principle of the wheel upon a 
wagon, which he dragged around, and thought it would be a 
valuable thing to bring golopos in from the plantations. A 
wheelbarrow took his fancy, as being a very useful tiling for 
his people to become acquainted with. A cow was to him a 
wonderful thing, and when she bellowed he was somewhat 
startled. Her milk he thought was not bad. though not to be 
compared to that of the green cocoanut. When he saw a yoke 
of oxen drawing a load of wood, he wondered why we put 
" cows" to such use, when we kept them for their " inil-i-ke." 

When he saw the conduct and heard the oaths and curses of 
the drunkards round some of the tippling-shops, he looked as 
if his moral principles had received a severe shock, and said, 
" My people no do so bad ; me wish'e me in Bidera." The 
windmills were to him what they were to Don Quixote. A 
small steamboat, named the Sophia Jane, plied along the coast 
and up Hunter River. The sight of this vessel under way 
was to him utterly astounding ; and he thought the puffing of 
the steam was allied to the boiling springs of Bidera. 

Alas ! poor Garry-Garry, the simple-hearted child of nature, 
he was now in a bad plight. His sea stock of fruits and betle 
had given out, and he was compelled to subsist upon ship's 
fare ! which it soon became evident did not agree with him. 
The cold weather, too, affected him severely ; he shivered all 
day long, and when he sat down by a fire he was troubled 
greatly by the chilblains upon his feet, which he imagined to 
be affected with some disease that he had caught in the moon. 
And he soon took a bad cold, which was a thing entirely be- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 249 

yond his understanding ; for he had never been affected with 
such a thing during his whole lifetime. " The moon," he said, 
" may be very good for white man. but very bad for me." 

Upon the whole, he had become heartily disgusted with the 
restraints of civilization and the slavery of fashion, which 
made clothing necessary. He detested the climate and the 
barren aspect of Sydney, and wished himself home again, 
where he could live in health and comfort, amid luxuries 
which he could not here enjoy. At home he could sail in his 
canoe, or swim upon the placid lagoons of Carwary, or wan- 
der over the lovely hills and dales of Bidera. But here he 
could do neither; clothing confined him, and he was afraid to 
touch water. Frequently he would sigh for some of the de- 
licious fruits that abounded at Carwary, and wish himself 
home. 

In Sydney we accidentally fell in with two Kanakers ; they 
were both young men. One was named Woahoo, and was a 
native of the Sandwich Islands ; the other was nicknamed 
Tomme, and was a native of Otaheite, one of the Society Isl- 
ands. They had been inveigled from home, while intoxicated, 
on board of some whale-ship, and had been abandoned here. 
They were nearly destitute of clothing, and had taken severe 
colds. The climate affected them as badly as Garry, and here 
in a strange land, among strangers, they bid fair to soon de- 
scend into the grave. We took them on board the vessel, 
clothed them, nursed them, and fed them. When we took them 
on board, they could hardly speak, and their skin showed how 
severely they were affected by the cold. Like Garry, they 
wished themselves home, and said that nothing could again in- 
duce them to leave their lovely islands. They were both 
good-looking, olive-complexioned men, with lank black hair. 
Tomme was a fine-proportioned man, and stood six feet high. 
His back was handsomely tattooed, and he was a man of note 
at home. They were honest, simple-hearted men, and if 1 
wanted a favour done, or were my life in danger, I would 
sooner have asked assistance of them than of many white 
men. As there were no vessels in port bound to the islands 
whence these men came, they consented to embark with us in 
order to get into the climate of the tropics, and there run their 
chance of meeting with a vessel bound to their homes. 



250 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Garry took a great liking to a large brindle mastiff, named 
Lion, which we took on board to be conveyed to Bidera for 
the purpose of improving the breed of native dogs. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

Having procured our grape-vines, &c, from the horticul- 
tural garden, and our business at Sydney being completed, we 
made preparations for returning to the islands. Mr. Watson, 
the gentlemanly pilot, the port-officer, and half a dozen police- 
officers came on board, and we weighed anchor. 

The port-officer read off the names of the crew, while the 
police-officers, with lanterns and cutlasses, examined every 
part of the vessel. It was not long before they all left us, and 
we bade farewell to Port Jackson. With a strong breeze blow- 
ing from the northwest and a rough sea on, we made rapid 
progress in a northeast direction. The next day the wind 
shifted to the southwest, and we were coasting Australia to 
the northward. 

Garry's cold grew worse and worse, and ended in a fever, 
that made him quite delirious. He imagined that he would 
surely die, and what troubled him more than all was the 
thought that his body would be cast into the sea, and thus pre- 
vent his people from performing over it the rites of sepulture. 
W T e rolled him in blankets, placed mustard plasters upon his 
feet, and dosed him well with opium. Thus we kept him in a 
delightful state of stupefaction for several days. Our progress 
was rapid, and every day brought us into a warmer and a 
pleasanter climate. By degrees we stripped off the flannel 
shirts and drawers of Sydney, and were again reduced to the 
pleasant and airy dress of the " Cannibal Islands." 

In fourteen days after leaving Sydney, we sighted Deliver- 
ance Cape and Satisfaction Island, in the archipelago of the 
Louisiade. Two days after, we anchored among Jones's 
Islands. They are eight in number, of the secondary forma- 
tion, and lie in a semicircular from, with the concave side to- 
wards the southwest. A coral shoal that has five fathoms 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 25Z 

water upon nearly its whole extent, extends from the islands 
several miles westward ; and from it, in one spot, rises an ab- 
rupt rock, upon which the sea breaks. The islands were ver- 
dant and covered with cocoanut and other trees, that presented 
quite a cheering aspect, when compared to the barren and cold 
region we had just left. A balmy perfume was wafted to sea- 
ward upon the mild breeze of the tropics that instilled new life 
into all of us, but particularly into Garry and the Kanakers, who 
had recovered rapidly, and now seemed like other men. A 
number of natives came alongside in canoes loaded with fruit. 
Some of them had straight hair. They were an active and 
intelligent race. They were friendly, and came unarmed. 
Their canoes were small and frail, and had one outrigger with 
float. We took their fruits, and made them many presents, 
Garry and the Kanakers feasted upon the productions of the 
islands, and, jumping into a canoe, paddled on shore, from 
which they returned in good spirits, and were once more 
" themselves again." 

One of the supercargoes had been left behind at Sydney. 
Things worked well on board now. The captain was dicta- 
tor. I had been reinstated, and the captain most generously 
granted me more privileges than had been agreed upon in 
New- York. I was comfortably domiciliated in a cabin state- 
room, and, when not engaged in active duties, was employed 

in the study of navigation, and, in combination with W , 

under direction of the captain, drew charts of the unknown re- 
gions that we visited. In trading with savages, my station 
was the starboard davit, and in explorations I commanded the 
Sylph. On board the vessel I kept no watch, except when all 
hands were called. In physical duties, my labours had been 
decreased, but this was amply made up by a more than pro- 
portionate increase of mental labour. 

The next day we got under way, and took our departure 
from Jones's Islands. We coasted the labyrinth of the Loui- 
siade, and made some discoveries ; and, on the seventh day 
after, sighted the south coast of Bidera. The wind blew strong 
from the southeast, and it set in for a steady rain. We scud- 
ded into Clay Harbour, and anchored in the old spot. It ap- 
peared to be the rainy season here, for the water was clay 
coloured from the outpouring of the river. 



252 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

The next day a fleet of canoes were seen approaching, and 
Wakenish soon sprang on deck with an agile bound, his body 
painted, and paradise plumes fluttering in the wind. We visit- 
ed his village in company with Garry and the Kanakers. 
The seeds that we planted in the gardens had grown finely, 
and we made an addition to them of a grape-vine and an ap- 
ple-tree. On the following day we embarked in the squa- 
dron and landed at Ehag. We were received in the most 
friendly manner by Loe-Loe and the young women, who had 
before feasted us on plums and sweet potatoes. At night we 
camped upon the beach, in front of the village, en bivouac. A 
grand dance came off round a blazing fire, and we were in- 
vited to attend. All the beaux and belles of the village had 
assembled to enjoy the sport, decked with flowers, plumes, 
paint, cocoanut oil, and boars' tusks bangles. There was 
one noble-looking young warrior there, who led the dance, 
and was decked in the most gaudy manner. He was a cele- 
brated brave of noble blood ; his name was Erugu-Kutar 
(Jumping Kangaroo). 

Garry and the Kanakers were seated upon mats with the 
chiefs, and I observed that the latter were engaged in deep 
conversation with the former, who now beckoned me to come 
and be seated also. I did so, and an old chief related to us the 
following tragical love-tale : 

" Erugu-Kutar, while a mere boy, had accompanied his father 
on a visit to Gonoro, where he became acquainted with Aiee, a 
girl two years his junior, and the daughter of Tongalee. The 
Ehag boy and the Gonoro girl wandered together in the wild 
wood, to pluck flowers and make garlands for the dance, and 
at other times they bathed in the lagoon upon the sand-beach. 
A mutual intimacy grew up between them, one of friendship, 
for they were yet too young to feel the fires of love. At this 
state of affairs, the Ehag boy departed with his father and re- 
turned home. He grew apace into manhood, and Erugu-Kutar 
became one of the most active warriors of his tribe. On 
scouting expeditions, when following the trail of the enemy 
through the forests of Bidera, he fully maintained his title of 
the Jumping Kangaroo, But he had not taken to himself a wife, 
notwithstanding the most noted belles of Ehag would willingly 
have accepted his hand had it been offered. At all times, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 253 

when not excited by the sports of the chase or tracking an 
enemy on the war-path, a deep melancholy pervaded his manly 
features, and the dance amused him not. Upon his mind was 
graven the beautiful image of Aiee, and in all his dreams she 
appeared to him as an angel from heaven. 

" One night a canoe, equipped for a voyage, was seen to 
steal swiftly away from Ehag. It was paddled by seven young 
warriors, and steered by Erugu-Kutar, who was decked with 
wampum, pearls, and plumes, the emblems of his prowess. 
He directed his course for Gonoro, where, in due time, he ar- 
rived, and was kindly received by Mahseelow and his people, 
who were much rejoiced at receiving a visit from so noble a 
chief. The Ehag warrior found his beloved Aiee alone in her 
tuonger ; but, to his mortification and extreme disappointment, 
he heard that she had been married two moons to Okaprungi, 
a chief of Gonoro. The latter had been absent one day, and 
was expected not to return in two more, as he had gone in his 
canoe down the lagoon for a load of obsidian. Erugu-Kutar 
was about to depart, perfectly crest-fallen, when Aiee sang a 
touching Gonoro air, with much pathos, accompanied by the 
mellow tones of her bamboo harp. At the charming sound of 
that sweet voice, he was quite overcome ; and kneeling, per- 
fectly distracted, at her feet, he seized her hand, kissed it ten- 
derly, and pressed it upon his agitated bosom. She returned 
his passion with equal fervour ; they embraced mutually, and 
their lips met with a thrilling kiss. They talked of their 
youthful sports and pastimes in the w 7 ood and on the beach, 
and she vowed she loved him better than her husband. She 
consented to elope with him that night. 

" At midnight the moon shone brightly upon the deep-blue 
waters of the Papua Sea, and a canoe, manned by seven young 
warriors, was seen heading the rollers near the beach of Go- 
noro, and out of sight of the village. Opposite the canoe, on 
the beach, strided to and fro Erugu-Kutar. His right hand 
grasped a battle-axe, and various passions seemed to excite 
his brain. ' The moon,' said he, ' is above the mountains of 
Bidera ; she has not come !' Suddenly he halted, and, stoop- 
ing down with his ear upon the ground, listened anxiously. 
Presently he rose up ; his brow was knit. ' Can it be,' said 
he, ' that she has proved false ? If so, then she lives no longer !' 

Y 



254 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

With this he hurried towards the village. He had not gone 
far when Aiee rushed from the wood and fell speechless at 
his feet. He took her in his arms to raise her up, when he 
heard a wild yell ! Before him stood Okaprungi ! The two 
warriors eyed each other like tigers, and then grappled with 
more than a maniac's fury ! Their grasp was the grasp of 
death, and terrible was the contest ! The Ehag chief dropped 
his battle-axe and tore the eye of his adversary from its socket. 
Raving with pain, as the blood trickled from his wound, the 
Gonoro chief, with a mighty effort, threw his opponent and 
flourished his glittering obsidian blade over his heart. With 
desperate strength the Ehag chief stretched forth his hand, 
seized his battle-axe, and buried its blade into the scull of his 
antagonist, who rolled upon the beach, a ghastly corpse, with 
the obsidian blade quivering in his hand ! 

" The Ehag chief now seized his lady, bore her through the 
surf, and safely deposited her in his canoe, while the warriors 
paddled away with all speed across Dampier's Strait. By this 
time the people of Gonoro had discovered the mangled corpse 
of Okaprungi, and by the light of the moon they saw the re- 
treating canoe upon the sea. The war turn-turn sounded, and 
a fleet of canoes put off in chase ; but the wind increasing and 
the sea being rough, they abandoned the pursuit and returned, 
for the fugitives had a long start." 

Before us danced Erugu-Kutar and Aiee, who live at Ehag, 
enjoying their connubial bliss. 

The old chiefs feared that this affair would cause war be- 
tween the people of Ehag and Gonoro, and requested us to in- 
tercede for them with the good King Mahseelow, and prevent 
him from fitting out a fleet of war-canoes. We agreed to do 
so ; and, as an atonement, Loe-Loe promised the fairest belle 
of Ehag in marriage to a Gonoro chief, and Erugu-Kutar gave 
us his wampum and paradise aigret to present to the nearest 
relative of Okaprungi. 

Love is an alchymist that can transmute poison into food, 
and a spaniel that prefers even punishment from one hand to 
caresses from another. But it is in love as in war, we are 
often more indebted for our success to the weakness of the 
defence than to the energy of the attack ; for mere idleness 
has ruined more women than passion, vanity more than idle- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 255 

ness, and credulity more than either. Ladies of fashion starve 
their happiness to feed their vanity, and their love to feed their 
pride. We devote the activity of our youth to revelry, and the 
decrepitude of our age to repentance ; and we finish the farce 
by bequeathing to the chancel our dead bodies, which, when 
living, we interdicted from the Church. 

On the following day we bade Loe-Loe and his people fare- 
well. We explored a reef and sent down the Kanaker divers. 
W T e saw a most singular school of porpoises ; they were about 
eighteen inches long, and had black backs. It began to blow 
violently, and we had a narrow escape with our lives, for the 
squadron was^nearly swamped among the lofty combers. We 
returned-to the vessel, and the carpenter went ashore to cut a 
spar in the forest. 

The next day we weighed anchor and sailed out upon the 
Papua Sea in quest of unknown islands. In four days after 
we were in sight of the south entrance to Dampier's Strait, 
and found ourselves sailing over a vast coral shoal. We could 
plainly see the bottom, and sometimes our keel fairly grated 
the coral. Our soundings averaged three fathoms, but one 
time we had only two fathoms water. A powerful current 
swept us to the northward. 

The next day we hove to off Gonoro, and landed in the In- 
vincible. We found the lagoon alive with canoes, and many 
warriors from Dampier's Island had assembled at the town, 
decked and armed for battle. They were bound to Ehag to 
demand satisfaction and reparation for the murder and abduc- 
tion. A grand council was held in the Praetorium of Gonoro, 
and, before the assembled chiefs and warriors, we proclaimed 
that we had been commissioned by Loe-Loe to act as media- 
tors between the Gonorans and Ehagans ; and, as an atone- 
ment, we displayed the wampum and aigret of Erugu-Kutar, 
and told them of the promise of Loe-Loe, that any brave of 
Gonoro, who should be chosen by Mahseelow, could come to 
Ehag and select the greatest belle for his wife. 

The Gonorans received us and our commission with kind- 
ness and favour, and were greatly pleased when the captain 
made them valuable presents on his own account, for he wish- 
ed to prevent the effusion of more blood. They held a long 
talk ; all the oldest men and the greatest medicines upon the 



256 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

island were consulted. At length they decided to accept the 
terras offered, and disbanded the war-party. In presence of 
the host, a handsome young chief was called upon to rise. 
He was the brother of Okaprungi. Mahseelow put the wam- 
pum on the body and the aigret upon the head of the young 
chief, and bade him, thus decked, embark in his canoe, go to 
Ehag, and select a wife. 

Things being thus amicably settled, we bade our friends 
farewell, and, soon after nightfall, sighted the vessel dancing 
upon the deep-blue waves of Dampier's Strait. We were soon 
on board, and squared away with a cracking breeze. 

On the evening of the fifth day after, we anchored in the 
Lagoon of Carwary, and Garry was in perfect ecstasies as he 
once more beheld the cocoagroves of his island home, and 
looked upon the lovely and verdant hills, and vales, and mount- 
ains of Bidera. 

But lo ! all, all seemed deserted ! not a human being could 
be seen, and Nomer and Heydee came not to greet the arrival 
of their son ! What could have happened during our absence ] 
We were all sorely troubled, but poor Garry looked like mis- 
ery itself. He had expected to be surrounded by his people, 
all anxious to greet his arrival. He jumped overboard to 
swim ashore, but we picked him up and brought him on board, 
for it was night, and we advised him to wait until morning, 
when we would solve the mystery. 

The morning came, and Garry discovered natives skulking 
along the groves of Carwary. He went into the majntop and 
called for them to come off to the vessel. A low murmur 
came from the forest, but the natives were afraid to show 
themselves. At length four men walked timidly do n the 
beach, and, embarking in a canoe, pulled with slow aid m- •. 
ured stroke towards us. When within two hundred feet they 
halted, and gazed at Garry in speechless amazement. He 
recognised them as his relatives, and, falling into a rage at 
their dilatory proceedings, accused them of a want of hospi- 
tality towards him now he had returned, a great man, from 
Tiecoe. Still they made no reply, and, looking first at Garry 
and then at each other, seemed undecided whether to advance 
or retreat. By degrees, however, Garry coaxed them along- 
side, and tremblingly they came on board. Soon their confi- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 25 

dence was fully restored, and they embraced Garry as one 
risen from the dead, and sobbed aloud. 

The mystery was soon solved, and they related the follow- 
ing melancholy tale : 

The good old King Nomer had been taken sick during our 
absence, and, the five moons having expired, he despatched 
couriers in all directions to notify him when the god-ship hove 
in sight. She came not ! and Heydee and her daughters 
thought it prognosticated evil, more especially as about this 
time terrible rumbling noises came out of the bowels of the 
earth, and the ground shook with violence. This was consid- 
ered a gloomy presage, and they supposed that the white king 
had at this fatal moment broken his faith, and was feasting on 
the roasted body of their beloved Garry. They now believed 
that the white king was a powerful and terrible Abaddon, who 
resided in the flaming crater of Morrell's Volcano, and had 
only come here in his big canoe, pretending friendship, to de- 
ceive the people and get them in his clutches to devour them. 
The greatest medicines of the island were assembled, and 
their opinions fully coincided with the above ; and, further- 
more, they stated it as their firm belief that all white men 
were immortal genii, and it was useless to take up arms 
against them. 

These reasonable conclusions, emanating from the oldest 
and most mighty medicines of the tribe, soon became estab- 
lished as matters that could never be refuted, and were bruited 
from mouth to mouth, with many wonderful additions, all of 
which every one believed to be positive facts. Such was their 
effect upon Nomer that his death was hastened, and he fell a 
victim to his excited apprehensions. His death was of course 
ascribed to the terrible Abaddon, who seemed to have pitched 
upon the family of Nomer to gratify his insatiable thirst for 
human blood. And it was supposed that the white king would 
soon return for more victims. The medicines decided that, 
when his war-canoe should heave in sight, the only safety of 
the people consisted in concealing themselves in the forest 
and invoking the aid of the Good Spirit. And as he seemed 
determined to exterminate the family of Nomer, their only 
safety consisted in fleeing to the mountain recesses of Bidera. 

Amid these severe national afflictions, a general convention 

Y 2 



258 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

was called of all the oldest and most noted chiefs, medicines, 
and priests belonging to the tribe. They assembled, decked in 
their sacerdotal dress of hogs' teeth, sharks' teeth, dogs' teeth, 
cockatoo plumes, and human bones. They sat in solemn 
state two days and two nights. Many were the learned 
speeches made by the chiefs. Solemn and imposing was the 
summing up of the learned and mighty medicines. They ate 
nothing during the session, but chewed a huge amount of betle 
and smoked an unusual quantity of banana leaf cigars (tobacco 
leaves rolled inside).* 

The convention promulgated, far and wide, the following 
reasonable and sage conclusions : 

1st. The terrible Abaddon thirsts for human victims ! 

2d. He intends to torment them, and laugh at their agonies 
while roasting alive in the flames of Morrell's Volcano ! 

3d. He of course intends to eat their bodies after he has 
roasted them ! 

4th. He does all this, not so much to satisfy his hunger, as 
to gratify his passion for putting human beings in misery ! 

5th. He must have a regular supply of human beings ; but 
it makes no difference to him from what tribe they are taken ! 

6th. If we sacrifice human beings to him, it will appease his 
wrath, and he will not destroy any more of our people ! 

7th. Having heretofore roasted and eaten all the prisoners 
taken in battle, for the purpose of sending their souls to the 
bad spirit, and thus tormenting and weakening their tribe, we 
will hereafter, notwithstanding the custom is a good one, alter 
it so far as not to eat their bodies, but to burn them up, as sac- 
rifices to Abaddon. This will propitiate the friendship of that 
demon, and he will not destroy any more of our people, pro- 
vided they keep out of his way. 

Such were the opinions of the people when we anchored 
near Carwary. Heydee, her daughters, and all the royal fam- 
ily, had fled to Bidera. The four braves on board had ventu- 
red off", from a strong affection that they had for Garry ; but 
when they saw him in the maintop, they firmly believed that 

* In regard to the use of tobacco by these people, I would here remark, that 
I believe, in connexion with other things, if we are ever enabled to investigate 
the ruins of Papua and Australia, it will be discovered that tobacco was in- 
troduced into America from Papua, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 259 

he was only a decoy-duck, set up there to entice them on 
board into the clutches of Abaddon. Garry wept when he 
heard of his father's death, and seemed much affected at the 
tale of the superstitious beliefs and opinions of his people. He 
had advanced one step towards becoming a reasoning and a 
civilized being. He astonished his relatives with the story of 
his visit to the moon, and told them how kindly he had been 
treated by the white king. They wept when they heard this, 
and thought how they had wronged white men, in supposing 
that they had killed him. They kneeled before the white 
king, and, kissing his hand, asked forgiveness. 

Upon the death of Nomer, his wife had become queen ; and, 
as she had fled to Bidera, it was agreed that Garry should re- 
main on board until she should return to receive him as be- 
came the heir-apparent to the crown of Carwary. According- 
ly, the natives now on board departed to proclaim the joyful 
news of Garry's safe arrival. . 

It was not long before we heard the martial echo in all di- 
rections. Troops of savages ran along the beach, followed by 
dogs and hogs, and canoes sped across the lagoon. Night set 
in, and bonfires burned on the hills of Bidera, and distant mur- 
murs, as of human voices, fell upon the ear. On the following 
day a fleet of canoes approached, filled with natives, singing 
and playing on musical instruments. Our " Calathumpian" 
band replied with an appropriate air. The fleet came along- 
side, and were greeted by three hearty cheers from our Jack- 
tars, and Heydee and her daughters sprang on deck and em- 
braced their beloved Garry, who soon jumped upon the taf- 
ferel and delivered a long harangue to his people, who sat in 
their canoes with wondering faces, listening to his account of 
the wonders he had seen in the moon. He told them about 
steamboats, windmills, telegraphs, white men's gods drawn in 
fiery chariots by horses or nondescripts, ploughs, wagons, 
wheelbarrows, soldiers, cows, and the grand band. All these 
things he described with appropriate gesture. His people 
gaped, and stared, and cheered him loudly, perfectly confound- 
ed at the great learning Garry had acquired since his visit to 
the moon ; and we reminded his mother of having told her that 
her son would live to return a great king. To cap the climax, 
Garry told how, in the moon, they built houses as high as go- 



260 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

coanut-trees, out of pots, and then displayed his brick as a sam- 
ple. Before the natives had time to recover from the sight of 
this wonder, he mounted Lion beside him, and explained that he 
had brought him from the moon to improve the Bidera breed. 
At the sight of such a big dog, the natives uttered a shout of 
surprise and admiration. Garry concluded his harangue by 
firing off his pistol. He was ever after looked up to by his peo- 
ple as the most mighty warrior in Carwary. The dog Lion 
was converted into a god, and fairly idolized. 

Garry and his dog embarked with the queen and her daugh- 
ters in their canoe, and departed for Carwary, followed by the 
fleet. The friendship and intimacy between us and the peo- 
ple of Carwary now became firmly established and cemented. 
Daily we were visited by the royal family and by the people, 
who came to bring us presents, and we made them presents in 
return. The sailors were frequently on shore, and had a jolly 
time of it at night, when they joined in the native dances. 
As the queen had become too old to attend to affairs of state, 
she decided, by the advice of her chiefs, to abdicate in favour 
of her son Garry. Accordingly, the day of his coronation was 
appointed, and we were invited to attend and take part in the 
ceremonies. The day arrived, and we landed at Carwary. A 
great concourse of savages had assembled, decked in their 
holyday dress of combs, tortoise and pearl shell rings, boars' 
tusks, bangles, &c. The platform in the great square was 
covered with mats and arched over with poles, that were hung 
with garlands of flowers and evergreens. In the centre was 
a throne of mats, hung with chaplets. The whole platform 
was ornamented with festoons, and presented a cheering and 
splendid appearance. In front of the tuongers that faced the 
throne were spread mats, upon which lay piles of bananas, co- 
coanuts, bread-fruit, mangosteen, &c. 

At the warning sound of the turn- turn, we hurried to the pal- 
ace, where we found all the chiefs assembled and forming in 
line. Garry assigned to us the station that we were to take, 
and informed us of the duties that we were to perform. The 
procession being formed, it marched along with solemn tread 
in the following order : 

1st. A maiden with a cockatoo perched upon her hand. 

2d. Two aged men, great medicines, of the order Carwary 



i\ THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 261 

an 1 Bidera, in sacerdotal dress, viz., Doondoo plumes flaunt- 
ing from their heads down their backs ; human teeth and hogs' 
teeth round their necks, and a polished human ulna in the right 
hand of each. 

3d. Six noted paradise chiefs, the ministers of state, with 
paradise plumes upon their heads, and long, slender bamboo 
tubes in their hands, walking two by two. 

4th. The queen, with a chaplet upon her head, a string of big 
golden glass beads around her neck, a garlanded mat around 
her waist, and a painted palm-leaf fan in her hand. 

5th. Garry-Garry, dressed in duck trousers, a hogs' teeth 
necklace upon his neck (it had been worn by his father), and a 
bamboo tube ten feet long and four inches in diameter in his 
hand. 

6th. The dog Lion, with a garland round his neck, following 
his master with his head down and looking very grim. 

7th. The white king, dressed in check-shirt, duck trousers, 
broad-brimmed Panama, and barefooted, like the royal family. 
In his hand he carried a bamboo tube, like those of the paradise 
chiefs. 

8th. The great medicine of the order Tiecoe, dressed after 
the fashion of the white king. 

9th. The daughters of Heydee, with strings of beads round 
their necks, small Dutch looking-glasses upon their breasts, 
and network bags upon their arms. 

10th. The different members or connexions of the royal 
family. 

11th. Ten dancing-girls, decked with garlands. 

12th. Grand band, composed of small hog-skin tum-tums, 
buccinums, Pandean pipes, bamboo harps, &c. 

13th. The populace, composed of men, women, and children. 

Arrived at the great square, the different members compo- 
sing the procession took their stations upon the platform as fol- 
lows : Garry sat upon the throne of mats, like the Grand Turk, 
and, placing one end of his big bamboo between his legs, he 
held it in a vertical position and looked steadfastly at its upper 
end, about one foot below which it was bored all round with 
little holes. Beside him lay Lion, and before him sat the queen, 
with her face towards the populace. Immediately in the rear 
of the throne sat the two medicines, and on each side stood 



262 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

the paradise chiefs, among whom were the white king and thv 
medicine of the order Tiecoe. In the rear of the medicines 
stood the dancing-girls. Around the outer edge of the plat- 
form sat the daughters of Heydee and the members of the 
royal family. In front of the queen stood the maiden with the 
cockatoo upon her hand. 

Round about upon the ground stood a vast mob of savages, 
of all ages and both sexes. 

Carpo, a paradise chief and prime minister, now delivered 
the following speech : 

" We are satisfied that the mighty Nomer died with old age. 
The white king has kept his promise with the children of Car- 
wary. Our beloved queen has grown old, and desires to pass 
the remainder of her days in the quiet of private life. With 
the consent of the chiefs and medicines, she now abdicates in 
favour of her son Garry-Garry, who has returned from Tiecoe 
a mighty warrior, a learned prophet and medicine, and pos- 
sesses the power of drawing thunder and lightning from heav- 
en. He will be powerful against our enemies. We love and 
respect him as a learned scion of Nomer." 

This speech was greeted with the loud plaudits of the peo- 
ple, and the grand band struck up a clamorous burst of any- 
thing but music. The queen rose, and, slowly approaching 
Garry, took the chaplet from her head, placed it upon his, and 
again seated herself. 

The medicines rose and crossed their ulnas over Garry's 
head, while at the same time the maiden approached and 
perched the cockatoo upon the ulnas. This was received 
with loud cheers by the savages. The paradise chiefs then 
formed a circle around the throne, and each inserted one end 
of his bamboo tube into one of the holes of Garry's bamboo, 
the top of which rose above their heads, and was a conspicuous 
object, at which the populace gazed in profound silence. The 
girls danced around, while one of their number presented each 
paradise chief a lighted cigar, from which he took a long puff 
and retained the smoke in his mouth. At a given signal from 
the medicines, each chief applied his mouth to his bamboo 
and blew the smoke through it into Garry's bamboo, from 
the top of which it rose into the air, in one little cloud, at 
which the host gazed with attentive and anxious silence. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



263 



The following engraving represents the coronation of Garry. 
If the smoke rose straight into the air and curled around, it 
was held to be a sign that the reign of the king would be long, 
and that his power would extend far and near. 




Most fortunately for Garry, it happened to be calm at the 
time. The smoke rose directly towards the heavens, and 
spread about amazingly. The girls danced, the band played, 
the host sent up deafening shouts of joy, and the ceremony 
wound up with a fruit-feast and merry-making. The savages 
were unambitious, contented, and happy ; and among them all 
there was not one drunkard, blasphemer, or gambler. 

At night I slept in the palace, and in the morning, when I 
departed, Garry's sisters presented me a handsome mat. This 
day we cut wood upon the shores of Bidera. 

The next day myself, W , and the Kanakers accompa- 
nied Garry and his people to their plantations in the interior of 
Bidera, for the purpose of planting some of our grape-vines 
and trees. We were absent but two days. The plantations 
are situated four miles in the interior, upon the bottom-lands 
of a beautiful undulating valley, and spread over a space of 
four miles square ; they abound in golopos and various other 
roots and plants. Each family cultivates half an acre or more, 
according to the number of its members. Each compartment 
is fenced with a bamboo stockade, to keep out hogs, &c. The 
women do the principal part of the work, while the men prac- 
tise throwing the spear, and other feats of agility. Garry and 



264 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

the principal chiefs had slaves to work their divisions. These 
slaves were allowed to marry, and were not driven by over- 
Beers. Their work was light, and they fared well, so long as 
they behaved themselves. Upon descending the hills into the 
valley, the scenery is most charming. The checkered plan- 
tations, with their bamboo stockades, the broad green leaves 
of the golopo, and the natives at work among them ; the fra- 
grant coppices that fringe the murmuring stream, whose sil- 
very waters are here and there brought to view by some sudden 
bend, and the distant lofty mountains — all tend to make up a 
scene of unequalled loveliness, and bring to recollection the 
fables and traditions of the golden age. 

I had amused the chiefs by firing at a target with my rifle, 
and they became so convinced of its deadly powers that they 
named it the magic war-club. "I-yar! I-yar!" (ejaculation 
of surprise), they exclaimed; "tar-carar wang-thaa mo ha 
herre-de a-war-ra Tiecoe !" (strike man with lightning from 
the mouth in the moon). We had presented Garry a musket 
and pistol ; but he was careful not to learn his people how to 
use them, for he intended to keep the power in his own hands. 
" Or-co ter-hue ho Doondoo zal-la-pu !" (will you accompany 
me on a Doondoo hunt?) said Garry to me the next day on 
shore. The second day after, I promised to accompany King 
Garry-Garry and his warriors on a grand Doondoo hunt upon 
the plains of Bidera. The next morning we were some- 
what surprised at hearing natives hailing us from the main, 
and I landed in the Sylph to ascertain what they wanted. 
" Where are your canoes ?" asked I, in the Bidera tongue. 

" We have got none." 

" How came you here ?" 

" We are Wosappi's people." 

" Where do you live 1" 

" Upon the mountains back of the plantations." 

" What did you come here for?" 

" Garry's people told us about the white king ; and we have 
come to look at the god-ship." 

" The white king will be happy to see his children from the 
mountains," said I, inviting them into the Sylph. We took 
them on board the vessel and made them presents. Of course 
they were much surprised, and wondered at all they saw ; and 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 265 

when we landed them, they started off at a round trot to in- 
form Wosappi of all they had seen. 

At the peep of day the next morning the watch cried, " War- 
canoes coming from Carwary !" 

I turned out of my berth, donned my accoutrements, rolled 
up my blanket, placed it under my arm, and seized my rifle. 
By this time the splashing of paddles was heard. I rushed on 
deck. Near the stern floated ten war-canoes, containing no 
less than one hundred of the flower of the warriors of Carwa- 
ry, all decked and armed for battle. One canoe came close to 
the stern, and upon its platform sat King Garry- Garry and the 
paradise chiefs. I threw my blanket among them and leaped 
aftei- it, while the canoe paddled swiftly away, followed by the 
fleet. " Mon wee elow-nee!" shouted Garry. Onward we 
sped along the shores of Bidera. Presently we entered a 
river, passing over a sand-bar and grazing several islets. Up 
stream, against a strong current, we wound our way, between 
a dense tropical forest that lined either bank. Having ascend- 
ed several miles, we came to rapids, where the water rushed 
with great velocity between immense rocks. Here we left all 
the canoes upon the beach except one, which the savages car- 
ried upon their shoulders, and launched it above the rapids, 
where Garry, myself, and the chiefs again embarked and pad- 
dled up stream, while the army marched along the river bank. 
After advancing some considerable distance farther, we came 
to a rocky dam, over which the water poured, and carried 
along with it many fine fish. Here we abandoned the canoe, 
and took up our line of march through the forest, pursuing a 
trail, with the whole company following us in Indian file. Be- 
sides his war implements, each warrior carried upon his back 
a mat knapsack, filled with sago-bread and cooked golopos. 
The forest was composed of stately trees of various kinds ; 
many of them were encircled with large vines, one species of 
which the chiefs pointed out to me as containing valuable me- 
dicinal properties, which I have since satisfactorily tested. 
We soon commenced the ascent of a lofty mountain, up which 
we toiled until late in the afternoon, when we halted in a glen 
beside a bubbling spring. After making a hearty supper upon 
golopos, we enjoyed a smoke and a chew of betle ; and when 
night came on, the army retired beneath a shelving rock, 

Z 



266 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

where each savage rolled himself in his mat, and with a stone 
for a pillow, lay down to sleep. I rolled myself in my blanket 
and made myself a similar bed. 

At daybreak we were again on the move, ascending the 
mountain, and soon came upon a strip of rolling land covered 
with grass. The bird's-eye view of the surrounding scenery 
here presented was most magnificent. Our elevation above 
the sea was so great that there was a perceptible difference in 
the temperature of the air, which was here quite cool and 
bracing. The climate is admirably fitted for grazing. The 
emigrant could choose the temperature that should please him 
best. The idea that generally prevails at the north, that all 
countries situated near the equator must be oppressively hot, 
is entirely unfounded. If an equatorial country is low or al- 
luvial to a great extent, or, like the Sahara of Africa, composed 
of sand, then this opinion is doubtless perfectly true. But 
such is not verdant and lofty Australasia, fanned by the invig- 
orating trades of the pure and vast Pacific Ocean. 

It was cold enough here for Garry, and he evidently wished 
not to ascend the mountain farther. We now descended grad- 
ually, following a trail that led around its east side to the south- 
ward. At noon we arrived opposite a chasm of vast depth. 
Standing upon its brink and looking down, it appeared strewed 
with stones that had been washed down by a torrent. We 
crossed over it upon a natural bridge of lava-rock, which was 
so narrow in one spot, that had we deviated a few feet to the 
right or left, we would have been hurled down a precipice of 
500 feet. Safely over, we halted to rest and eat dinner beside 
a creek, and again resumed the line of march. Soon we 
reached the south side of the mountain, and descended rapidly 
into a vast valley, composed of undulating prairies, stretching 
away as far as the eye could see, and dotted with woods and 
clumps of trees, while through its centre ran a river, the 
banks of which, here and there, were fringed with trees and 
underwood. The view of this waving carpet of green was 
cheering and charming. It was near sunset as I halted upon 
a bluff to gaze at the sublime scene before me. Birds of vari- 
ous species and of splendid plumage flew over the prairie, 
seeking a resting-place. I thought that, in the distance, I could 
discern dark objects moving upon the plain. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 267 

" String garp, co ra see che-ma-ni !" (night is near, we must 
be on the plain), ejaculated a paradise chief, with a shrug of 
his brawny shoulders, as he grasped me by the arm. The 
warriors wished not to be retarded. Garry and the chiefs led 
the way with rapid strides, and I trotted after them, keeping 
up as well as I could, and determined not to be outdone if pos- 
sible, although I was much fatigued by the arduous march, and 
my feet were somewhat sore. It was now night, and we were 
descending a rocky chasm that led into the prairie. It was 
perfectly calm, and the loud tramp of the warriors, and rattling 
of their arms and ornaments, rose audibly upon the ear, as they 
followed close upon my heels. In my anxiety to keep up with 
the chiefs, I stumbled over a rock and lost my pocket com- 
pass ; but, as the warriors were close upon me, I picked my- 
self up as speedily as possible, and resumed my station, march- 
ed forward, without saying a word about my loss, for fear of 
retarding the army. Soon we were upon the prairie, and 
marching through the tall grass towards its centre. It was 
near midnight when we reached a clump of underwood, beside 
which we encamped for the night. After eating an allowance 
of a piece of sago-bread and two golopos each, the natives, 
without speaking a word, rolled themselves in their mats and 
lay down in the grass to sleep. I did the same in my blanket. 
Once or twice I was startled by strange noises in the distance, 
made by wild beasts, but I was so fatigued that I soon fell into 
a sound sleep. 

At the break of day, I started up perfectly bewildered at 
hearing all the warriors shout, at the top of their voices, 
M Doondoo ! Doondoo !" while at the same time they seized 
their spears and clubs and jumped to their feet. I picked up 
my rifle and did the same. Two ferocious and monstrous- 
looking birds, resembling the ostrich, ran past us like race- 
horses, with heads six feet above the ground, and apparently 
powerful enough to knock a man down. The warriors threw 
their spears and clubs at them, and Garry fired his musket ; but 
the hindmost bird was only w T ounded, and away they streaked 
it over the prairie. At this failure of the " magic war-club" 
the chiefs and warriors began to murmur, and question wheth- 
er the stories I had told them about its deadly effects were not 
all moonshine. A great weight rested upon my mind, and 



268 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

now was the moment for me to rise or fall in the estimation 
of the chiefs as a " mighty medicine.'' Outwardly I showed 
not my trepidation. The eyes of all the savages were turned 
upon me. I levelled my rifle at the hindmost bird and fired ; he 
fell dead ! A shout of mingled joy and surprise was uttered 
by the whole army, who now looked upon me as a mighty 
warrior and medicine, who could successfully wield the 
*' magic club." We soon surrounded the Doondoo ; he was a 
majestic bird, of a species between that of the cassowary 
and ostrich. His head and beak were covered with a ribbed 
horny excrescence, or coat of mail, that looked truly formida- 
ble, more especially when mounted high in air as the bird was 
running. His legs were remarkably powerful, and the fleet- 
ness of these birds is so great that the natives never attempt 
to pursue them. The natives find it difficult to capture or kill 
the Doondoo, more especially when they attempt to interfere 
with or molest their nests or young; at these times they be- 
come perfectly furious, and have been known to knock down 
natives and kick them to death. The feathers, the beak, and 
the quills of the Doondoo are considered of great value in Bi- 
dera. The first are worn upon the heads of the chiefs, the 
second is worn upon the breast as an amulet, and the latter 
pass for money, so that for a certain number you can buy any 
maiden for a wife that you fancy. So difficult do the Carwa- 
rians find it to capture this valuable bird, that if they succeed 
in killing one every year they consider themselves amply com- 
pensated for the fatigues of a march to the Doondoo plains. 

The savages soon stripped the plumes and beak from the 
dead bird, and we again journeyed across the prairie. Upon 
approaching a mound of considerable elevation, we espied four 
Doondoos. The whole army fell flat upon their faces in the 
grass, and I did the same. Garry whispered to the chiefs, 
who passed his words to the warriors, six of whom left us, 
creeping on all fours round the mound. Suddenly we heard a 
wild yell! I raised my head above the grass, and saw the 
savages who had left us standing on the opposite side of the 
Doondoos, who were now running full speed towards us. The 
hand of a chief fell heavily upon my head, and I " bit the dust." 
The tramp and whizzing of the Doondoos sounded loudly upon 
my ears, and, not feeling inclined to lie still and be run over, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



269 



I essayed to jump up, but the powerful arm of the chief still 
pinioned me to the ground. The birds were evidently close 
upon us, when Garry yelled, and the whole army rose up, yell- 
ing- wildly, and presenting to the vision of the terrified birds a 
solid phalanx of warriors, who hurled their spears and clubs 
at them as they wheeled to the left and ran with incredible 
speed and terrible cries of alarm. Garry levelled his musket 
and fired at one of the birds that had been wounded with a 
spear, which still stuck in his body and trailed upon the ground, 
thus retarding his flight. He fell dead, and Garry had redeemed 
his name as a warrior of Tiecoe, who could wield the " magic 
club" (I had loaded his musket with one ball and four buck-shot). 
I fired at the largest bird, and he fell, mortally wounded ; the 
rest escaped ; but we had already been successful beyond pre- 
cedent, and the hunting party fairly rent the air with shouts of 
joy. Being much fatigued, we retired to a luxuriant grove of 
cocoanut and banana trees that grew on the base of the mound, 
and feasted upon their fruit. Garry informed me that his fa- 
ther had planted this grove here expressly for his people to re- 
fresh themselves when fatigued with the Doondoo hunt. By 
dark the two birds had been stripped of their plumage, and we 
lay down upon the mound to sleep. 

At the break of day, Garry and the chiefs awoke me, and I 
accompanied them to the summit of the mound, from which 
the view of the surrounding scenery was truly magnificent. 
The following drawing, which I sketched hurriedly in my note- 
book, may probably convey to the reader a faint outline of the 
great Doondoo Plains of Bidera. 




270 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



We scanned the prairie in all directions, and saw no more 
Doondoos ; but we had been more successful than we expect- 
ed, and in right good cheer, after a hearty feast of fruits, the 
company took up its line of march across the prairie home- 
ward. At night we camped near the natural bridge, and the 
next day journeyed onward. With a forced march, we reach- 
ed the canoes at dark, and, embarking, floated down stream, 
paddled across the lagoon, and arrived at Carwary some time 
before midnight. 

I slept at the palace in the same apartment with Garry and 
his sisters, who received me kindly, and provided the best 
mats for sleeping upon. 

The next morning we were aroused by the beat of the tum- 
tum. Garry, the paradise chiefs, and the great medicines 
marched me to the council square and mounted me upon the 
throne, amid the shouting of the Doondoo army and of the pop- 
ulace. The medicines placed a cap of Doondoo plumes upon my 
head, while Garry hung a beak of one of the birds that I had 
killed upon my breast. I had received one of the highest hon- 
ours that it was in the power of the king to bestow. I was now 
a Doondoo knight, of the orders Bidera and Carwary ! and I 
had received this honour for my prowess in the Doondoo hunt. 
With all the insignia upon my person, I returned to the palace, 
and was greeted by the ex-queen and her daughters, either one 
of whom I was now rich enough to buy ; but I declined matri- 











1#^ 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 271 

mony for the present, more especially as W had arrived 

with orders from the captain to hunt me up ; he feared, from 
my long absence, that something had befallen me — perchance, 
that I had been massacred and eaten by the savages. I em- 
barked in the Sylph, and soon leaped on board the vessel, greet- 
ed by my shipmates in Indian style, for, with the Doondoo 
plumes fluttering in the breeze, I looked not unlike a savage. 
The preceding drawing represents two of the Doondoo 
plumes worn by the chiefs upon great occasions. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

On the following day we bade farewell to King Garry and 
the royal family. We got under way, battled through the 
reefs, and were soon out to sea, scudding along with all sail 
set and a spanker breeze blowing. The crew seemed in right 
good cheer, and sang a merry song in the dog-watch ; the ves- 
sel echoed the chorus as she dashed along, throwing the spray 
from her bow, while countless thousands of twinkling stars 
smiled pleasantly upon us from the deep-blue vault of heaven. 
In two days we were on the boundless Pacific, and, after a 
pleasure sail of four days more, we sighted the land of prom- 
ise (Morrell's Group). A large canoe, under full sail, ap- 
proached us, and King Darco and the noted brave Ragotur 
soon tumbled on deck through a port, and bounded aft to em- 
brace us, with tears in their eyes. The meeting between 
Darco and the captain was very affecting, and the big tear 
rolled from the eyes of the king as they embraced. He had 
been successful in all his undertakings ; the mountain people 
were reduced to subjection ; the big canoe was completed, and 
we now saw it alongside ; a universal peace reigned through- 
out Nyappa, and he was worshipped as the greatest king that 
ever lived, one who could wield the war-club of " Lingambo" 
(moon). His tortoise-sheir hunters and pearl divers had been 
very successful, and he now informed the captain that a large 
quantity of these articles awaited his command on shore ; and, 
to convince him how successful he had been, he presented 



272 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

him one of the largest and purest pearls that we had ever seen ; 
and when we afterward compared it with the finest in the col- 
lection of the Sultan of Sooloo, we found that it even surpass- 
ed the best of them. 

We soon anchored near the land, and were surrounded by- 
all our loving friends, who seemed even more kind to us than 
they had been during our former visit. The crew had as much 
as they could well attend to in exchanging gratulations with the 
young women, who came on board with presents of fruit for 
their old and tried friends from Lingambo. Darco invited me 
into his canoe, to examine its structure ; at a given signal, his 
warriors paddled swiftly for the shore, carrying me along with 
them. We entered a creek that led into a romantic and se- 
questered glen, shaded by luxurious groves of fruit-trees. I 
was charmed with the scenery, and the delightful freshness 
and fragrance of the air. On either hand, in little nooks, were 
scattered gardens of golopos, yams, sweet potatoes, &c. Gli- 
ding by a rock over which poured a little cascade, we landed 
at the mouth of a ghaut, which we ascended to a verdant ter- 
replein, upon which was situated the beautiful and spacious 
fretwork palace of Darco, overlooking the charming scenery 
of the glen. The prince led me through a handsome garden, 
with walks of coral sand, and fences of bamboo worked into 
the form of diamond lattices, and then into his palace, where 
he introduced me to his two wives. They were good-looking 
wenches, and had fallen in love with Darco since his return 
from Lingambo. They feasted me upon the productions of 
their garden, which they worked themselves, and I presented 
them various gewgaws that pleased them much. We sat upon 
mats in front of the palace to enjoy an evening chit-chat. 

It was now night, and a light approached. It was a flaming 
candle-nut, carried upon the end of a spear, by Ragotur, who 
now joined us, accompanied by his plump daughter, who was 
probably not more than fifteen. After an hour's chat, this cel- 
ebrated brave departed, leaving his daughter. The conversa- 
tion now turned upon various subjects ; the young women and 
Darco all urged me to get married and settle down for life upon 
their island. The prince promised to build me a fine house 
upon the opposite side of the glen, and Tewatse, the daughter 
of Ragotur, promised to keep it in order and cultivate the gar- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 273 

den round it; to make all the mats and cook all the food. 
Darco told me how much happier I could live here than in a 
cold, dreary country, where the wants are many and but ill 
supplied, and where the people cut each other's throats to ob- 
tain money, or commit suicide for the want of it. I asked 
him if he wanted to go to America again. " O-oo bailie !" (no, 
never), was his reply; "me more happy here, where people 
no want money to get married and support a family." 

He spoke from his heart, and had evidently become as much 
of a savage as ever ; he went entirely naked, as usual, not 
wishing to be encumbered with his clothes, which he had hung 
up in his palace as curiosities for his people to look at, for 
they regarded them as suits of armour to guard a man's body 
from spears. His " magic club" hung over the door, and was 
fairly reverenced by the natives. 

We all retired to sleep in the same apartment ; according 
to custom, we slept upon separate bedsteads. At the dawn of 
day I was awoke by Tewatse, who came to present me her 
favourite parrot, that was perched upon her hand, and cried, 
" Pitar acker !" (good cocoanut). 

" Wang-ger to-mie Mona-cer !" shouted a savage, who ran 
up to the door. Darco rose and strided away. Soon he re- 
turned, accompanied by the captain, W , and a host of na- 
tives. They had brought the grape-vines and trees which we 
procured at Sydney. The natives were all desirous to assist 
in carrying something, and, in their eagerness, one vine was 
stretched out and carried by four men, when one would have 
been all-sufficient. All these precious plants were carefully 
planted in Darco's garden. 

The next day we accompanied Darco and his chiefs upon a 
tour into the interior of the island, for the purpose of examin- 
ing some trees whose wood was valuable. At dark we halted 
at a village upon the mountains, and the natives, of both sexes, 
amused us by dancing round a blazing fire, performing gro- 
tesque and curious antics, to the tune of arm castanets and 
tum-tums, while at the same time they sung the following sin- 
gular song : 

" E-rin go lu-rin go lar ! 
E-rin go pi tang ar-r ! ! 
Re-gare o bu, Pepe Lavoo ! 
He-gar© Parco, or go AfQQ ! " 



274 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

This song is part of an historical love-tale connected with 
Lavoo (the red warrior) and his wife, the precise meaning of 
which I could not comprehend. 

In the midst of the festivities, we were somewhat startled 
by the appearance in the heavens, directly over Riger, of a vast 
ball of blue fire ! It fell rapidly, leaving a train of blue flame 
in its wake, and then exploded, casting round about brilliant 
red and blue stars. The dance ended, and the natives gazed 
in amazement until the meteor disappeared, when they ven- 
tured to speak, and assert that wc had caused it on purpose, to 
terrify their enemies ! 

The next day we were again on the march, and descended 
to the seashore, where Darco showed us some fine beche-de- 
mer, which was perfectly useless to his people ; and he had not 
cured any, for he knew not the process, and, besides, had no 
caldrons. 

The captain now laid the foundation of a deep plan ; he in- 
tended, at a future day, to return to these lovely islands on his 
" own hook," and found a trading-post and colony. Here he 
intended to end his days in quiet and peace, free from the cares 
of a moneyed world. 

Wonger and Pongaracoopo, the two warriors and relatives of 
Darco, who had before accompanied us on board the vessel 
from Riger to Nyappa, pressed the captain to take them with 
him again, and show them the islands that he intended to visit. 
Heretofore they had supposed that Morrell's Group comprised 
the whole world ; but now that they heard that other islands 
existed near by, their ambition was roused. They were young 
men, had a comfortable home and loving wives, but they 
thirsted for renown, and, like Darco, wanted to hand their 
names down to posterity. The captain promised to take them 
along, and return them to Nyappa in a few moons. 

" What is it ? Fancy's glittering crown, 
That lures the young aspirant on; 
The deceptive laurel chaplet of renown, 
That's gained at last when life is gone." 

" Yet so it is : to reach the goal 

Of bright renown and deathless fame, 
Still throbs man's ardent, eager soul, 
To gain, when he is dust, a name !" 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



275 



The following is the manner in which the natives of Mor- 
rell's Group count from one to one hundred thousand : 



1 Catch-eco. 

2 Car-ruer. 

3 Car-tollo. 

4 Car-varter. 

5 Car-lemar. 

6 Polo-catcheco. 

7 Polo-ruer. 

8 Polo-tollo. 

9 Polo-varter. 

10 Ranivulico. 

11 Baler-catcheco. 

12 Baler-ruer. 

13 Baler-tollo. 

14 Baler-varter. 

15 Baler-lemar. 



16 Baler-polo-catcheco 

17 Baler-polo-ruer. 

18 Baler-polo-tollo. 

19 Baler-polo-varter. 

20 Ranivulico-ruer. 
30 Ranivulico-tollo. 
40 Ranivulico-varter. 
50 Ranivulico-lemar. 

60 Ranivulico-polo-catcheco. 
70 Ranivulico-polo-ruer. 
80 Ranivulico-polo-tollo. 
90 Ranivulico-polo-varter. 
100 Woo-no. 
1,000 Woo-no-ranivulico. 
100,000 Woono-woono-ranivulico. 



I was struck with the similarity of the word for five by all 
the natives of the different islands throughout Tropical Aus- 
tralasia. 

In Morrell's Group five is .... Car Lemar. 

Sooloo Islands ...... Lemar. 

The Malays in general .... Lemeer. 

Marso Leme. 

Papua . Leam. 

Mend ana Archipelago .... Lema. 

I also remarked that " three" is pronounced as follows at the 
places named : Marso, tollo ; Bidera, tolo ; Morrell's Group, 
car-tollo ; Mendana Archipelago, tolu ; Gelvink Bay, Papua, 
tol ; Sooloo, to. At Marso ten is called " songule," and this is 
the same as at Bidera. 

The next day I was walking from Darco's garden towards 
the rumacker (house) of Ragotur, in company with Tewatse. 
The path led through the forest up the glen. Winding our 
way through a thicket of underwood, that grew upon the verge 
of a bluff overhanging the pellucid stream, I heard the merry 
voices of females ; and, casting my eyes down upon the sil- 
very waters, beheld women and children bathing upon the 
pebbly bottom. Some of the women had their infants upon 
their backs, clasping their tiny arms about their necks, thus 
receiving their first lesson in aquatic sports. Leaving the 
bluff, we descended into a sequestered cove, formed by a bend 



276 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



in the creek, the waters of which swept noisily along a strip 
of rich bottom-land, upon which stood a neat wigwam, shaded 
by cocoa-trees, and surrounded by a neat, well-cultivated gar- 
den. In the water in front of the wigwam stood a young 
man and his wife. The latter held a smiling, chubby infant in 
her arms, which she laid carefully into a little fan-palm canoe, 
that she sent adrift with its precious burden. The current 
drifted it swiftly down stream towards the young man, who 
checked its progress, and pushed it before him back to the 
mother. Thus were they at once amusing themselves and 
teaching their child familiarity with the water. With such in- 
struction, commenced at so early an age, and carefully pursu- 
ed, it is not surprising that the natives, when grown to man- 
hood, are as much at home in one element as the other ; and 
you might as well deprive a native of these lovely islands of 
his food or drink, as of his daily bath, which, in this climate, 
not only promotes bodily vigour, but is one of the greatest lux- 
uries, and, combined with active sports in the open air, freed 
from the encumbrance of clothing, tends to perfect the sym- 
metry of the human frame, and render pulmonic diseases en- 
tirely unknown. 

The scene that had passed before me seemed too purely 
ideal for actual occurrence, and I gazed in silence at the wig- 
wam until Tewatse seized me by the arm, and, pointing to the 
path, said, " Tolum-casey puru-pur-wongcr maner !" (recol- 
lect the canoe is waiting). The following engraving repre- 
sents this bathing scene. I felt strongly tempted to embark 




IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 277 

forthwith, in company with several shipmates, for the unin- 
habited Island of Garove, and colonize the beautiful bay. At 
present it was impracticable ; but at another time the captain 
intended to return, with a party of young men and women 
from the United States, for that purpose. The next day I 
witnessed the dexterity of the warriors of Nyappa in throw- 
ing the spear and wielding the sling, during the execution of a 
sham-fight. The sport wound up with a grand dance, at which 
our liberty-men amused themselves right heartily. 

The next morning we got under way and put to sea, with 
the two Nyappa passengers on board. When we lost sight of 
land, they seemed much alarmed, and expressed to me their 
fears that we would never be able to find our way back, for 
they had themselves once been blown out of sight of land, 
while crossing in their canoe from Nyappa to Riger, and it 
was only by a miracle that they ever found their island again. 
I showed them my sextant and compass, and told them that, 
with these instruments, we could talk to the sun and stars, and 
could never be lost. They wondered much, and played with 
the compass half the day. 

Wonger was a jolly fellow, and had the bump of mirthful- 
ness very largely developed. He could crack a joke, throw 
back a repartee, and laugh as long and loudly as any of us. 
Pongaracoopo was silent and stern, his eyes black and pier- 
cing, and his expression savage. We dressed them both in 
shirts and trousers, which they admired for a day and then 
threw off, and stowed carefully away in their curiosity bag. 
When we encountered a thunder gust, and the vessel heeled 
over to her bearings, with the lee scuppers in the water, they 
held on to the weather rigging, and seemed much troubled, and 
expressed their fears lest the vessel should roll over. The 
next land that we made was Monteverdeson Island, where we 
stopped a day to trade with the natives. After this we discov- 
ered an island and a reef, and found some fine specimens of 
beche-de-mer. One pleasant morning we entered Root Strait, 
drifting rapidly to the southward, carried by a strong current. 
Several canoes approached, coming from the islands to the 
eastward, where the four young men belonged whom I before 
mentioned as having been massacred during our former visit. 
The canoes were soon alongside, and were manned by stout, 

A A 



278 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

healthy-looking, copper-coloured men ; their features regular 
and handsome, their hair straight and coiled on top of the 
head, their eyes black and expressive, their foreheads lofty 
and intellectual, and their countenances honest, open-hearted, 
and intelligent. They were remarkably cleanly in their per- 
sons, and were evidently a different race from those of Marso. 
They were very friendly and sociable, and we made them 
presents. They invited us on shore ; and, when they left us, 
the principal chief, a healthy, noble-looking man, rose upon the 
platform of his canoe, and, assuming an oratorical attitude, de- 
livered us a loud speech, accompanied by appropriate gesticu- 
lation. He spoke from his heart, his countenance glowed 
with enthusiasm, his broad chest heaved with emotion, his 
rounded body and well-formed limbs seemed nerved to more 
than their usual strength, and he acquitted himself as well as 
any Roman orator. The Nyappans stared at him, perfectly 
astounded. 

During the night the current drifted us quite through the 
strait. The next morning we beat up and cruised along the 
east coast of Marso. Several canoes came off with pigs and 
sago, and we saw a large war-canoe reconnoitring alongshore. 
In the evening the wind fell away, and the current again swept 
us to the south. The next morning we had a fine breeze, and 
coasted to the northward. When half way through the strait, 
the wind fell away, and we just held our own. A large fleet of 
canoes came off and surrounded us. They were manned with 
black warriors, all armed for battle, and were headed by Nar- 
carlumo in person, who frequently spoke authoritatively, and 
kept about a hundred feet from the vessel, reconnoitring us, 
while his warriors closed in and entered into trade. Our top- 
men were aloft, as usual, with orders to shoot the first savage 
who brandished a spear. It seemed surprising that the pirate 
king should again dare venture within reach of our bullets. 
The purport of his visit soon became evident ; he scanned the 
vessel with eagle eyes from the bends to the royal-mast, but 
what seemed to him a source of great tribulation were the top- 
men, ill their airy citadels. He appeared to have come off to 
capture the vessel by pretending friendship. Our crew were 
on the qui vive, and determined to take a dreadful revenge if 
anything of the kind was attempted ; the cannon were all shot- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 279 

ted with grape and langrage. The loud, shrill voice of Narcar- 
lumo rose upon the air, the canoes containing the principal 
chiefs circled round him and held a consultation of war, as we 
supposed, for they frequently pointed to the top-men, and 
seemed much disconcerted. The king again spoke ; the whole 
army left the vessel and held a grand consultation, after which 
they shouted and paddled briskly towards us, for the current 
had carried them astern. The captain jumped upon the taf- 
ferel, sounded a blast of defiance through his trumpet, and fired 
his pistol over the fleet. The warriors leaped overboard to 
dodge the bullets, but upon finding that none came, and that 
the vessel was dropping them rapidly astern, they sprang into 
their canoes and paddled with all speed for the shore. 

Late in the afternoon, we arrived opposite the mouth of Root 
Bay ; and a fleet of canoes put off from the town, filled with 
our old friends, who were coming to present us hogs, golopos, 
bananas, and baked fish. Only two canoes got alongside, and 
they informed us that the pirates still continued their depreda- 
tions upon the coast, and they feared to venture out even thus 
far, and, to be prepared to act on the defensive, they had come 
armed. We promised to call and see them when we returned, 
and then, taking advantage of a stiff breeze, we dashed away 
to the northward, while the whole fleet in the distance beck- 
oned us to stop, and the little girls and boys held up fruit to 
tempt us. But we heeded them not, and onward we dashed 
into darkness, for the mantle of night had begun to spread 
Over us. 

The next morning we entered the east end of Morrell's La- 
goon, and sailed to the southeast, up a great bay, which I shall 
name Tolenerakee Bay, after the chief of the same name who 
resides at its foot. We anchored, made all snug, and equipped 
the squadron. The next day we embarked in the squadron, 
and, with a cracking breeze, proceeded to explore this spa- 
cious bay. We sailed through a fleet of canoes, filled with 
savages, who all stared at us in mute surprise. We sent our 
Kanaker divers down in quest of pearls, but they were not suc- 
cessful. We landed in several places to trade with the sav- 
ages, and discovered two fresh-water streams upon the main. 
At the foot of the bay, we landed at a village, and opened a 
trade with its aged chief, Tolenerakee. Here we were much 



280 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

pleased at meeting some of our old friends from Root Bay, 
who had come here on a visit, to witness the marriage of one 
of their tribe to the daughter of Tolenerakee. They invited 
us to return with them over land and visit their people. I 
wished to do so, in company with two of the crew, but the cap- 
tain objected. The warriors presented us pigs, and the women 
and children pressed us to partake of their fruits and vegeta- 
bles. The next day we were visited on board the vessel by a 
host of girls and women, who were curious to see everything, 
and the sailors took a particular pride in explaining everything 
to their complete satisfaction. 

The next day we got under way, and sailed, with a brisk 
breeze, to the westward, up Morrell's Lagoon. The day was 
remarkably pleasant, the scenery charming, and, with all sail 
set, the vessel cut her way through the placid waters like a 
pleasure-yacht. It was " sea-pie" day, too, and at meridian 
the crew huddled round their respective kids, armed with iron 
spoons, while we of the cabin sat round the table, discussing 
the merits of sea-pie, fruit, and porter. 

" Steward !" said the first officer. 

" Sir." 

" Bring us a tumbler ; this pie beats duff ; what kind of rope- 
yarns did you season it with V* 

" The ' ladies' of Nyappa couldn't beat it." This was inter- 
preted to the Nyappans, who laughed heartily, and cracked 
their jokes upon our cookery, in comparison to that of their 
wives. 

" Now for a brimmer," said the captain, filling the glasses 
with porter. " Here's a toast to the health and happiness of 
the ladies of Nyappa." 

" We're creeping along briskly, and shall have a speedy and 
pleasant passage through the lagoon," I remarked. 

" Here's a toast," said the second officer : " A prosperous 
voyage, fortunes made, a beautiful clipper fitted out from 
New- York, freighted with young men and women to found a 
happy colony upon the shores of Garove Bay!" This was 
drank with three times three. 

A terrible crash ensued, and we all lay sprawling on the 
floor, with the camp-stools, the crockery, and all the books 
from the bookcase dashed on top of us, We got up, as well 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 281 

we might, and tumbled on deck in decided alarm. The crew 
stood motionless as statues, and the man at the helm was the 
very personation of apprehension. All hands gave signs of 
returning animation when the captain cried, " Jump ! bear-a- 
hand ! let go the halliards fore and aft ! clew up and clew 
down! brace the yards sharp up! work sharp, or you'll have 
the masts round your ears ! man the jib down-hauls !" 

We had run upon a coral reef, that the look-out did not see 
in time, for the water was coloured with clay, washed from 
the rivers of Marso. Here we lay, rolling from side to side 
with the ground swell. The coral grated upon the keel, 
threatening at every lurch to tear holes through it, and the 
vessel trembled like a wounded bird. We got an anchor out 
astern and attempted to heave her off; but, after nearly snap- 
ping the chain, and carrying away the windlass without budg- 
ing her, we gave it up as a useless job, and began to resign 
ourselves to our fate, to leave the ribs of the vessel here and 
take to the squadron. 

The wind and swell increased, the vessel thumped more 
heavily than before, and the tide was falling. To add to our 
troubles, a fleet of canoes, filled with savages, all well armed, 
reconnoitred us as if aware of our perilous situation, and only 
awaiting an opportunity to massacre and plunder us. We 
fired several muskets over their heads, to keep them at a re- 
spectful distance. The minds of the crew seemed shrouded 
with gloomy forebodings, and I heard them making the follow- 
ing remarks, while gathered in little knots about the deck : 
" This fancy hull to be sawed up in this way." " I'd as leave 
have my back bone scraped." "We'd better make our wills, 
and study Bill's Bible." " We'll stick by our chum till the last 
piece floats away." During this time the captain had sounded 
the reef upon which the vessel lay ; and, as luck would have 
it, she had run upon a narrow spot, or, rather, " thwartships" on 
the "back bone" of the reef; and, if we could by any means 
force her twice her length ahead, we would then be in deep 
water. There was only one chance of saving the vessel, and 
the captain determined to make one desperate effort The 
wind blew strong and quartering. We rolled the water casks 
forward, to bring the hull on an even keel, and then set all sail. 
The canvass bellied out, the shrouds and stays stretched and 

A a2 



282 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

cracked, and the swell rolled us nearly on our beam-ends. 
" She moves !" With sudden throes she bounced ahead, lifted 
by a rising swell, and again settled with a violent thump, as it 
left her in its trough, while the keel tore the jagged coral. 
Again the swell buoyed us up, and again we bounded ahead, 
grating the coral so that a piece of the false-keel was torn off 
and rose to the surface of the water. Thus we continued, the 
masts trembling fearfully and threatening to go by the board. 
At length, after several moments of fearful suspense and 
breathless anxiety, the crew all the while clinging to the man- 
ropes, the bow plunged suddenly into deep water and the stern 
hung upon the reef, from which it disengaged itself violently, 
tearing off the rudder and driving its head through the stem- 
port, demolishing the ornaments and overthrowing the round- 
house, which was full of cocoanuts and gewgaws, that were 
scattered about in all directions. We were now clear of the 
reef, and skimming out into the lagoon, where we soon an- 
chored, for the want of a rudder to steer by. We tried the 
pumps, and, to our inexpressible joy, found that she did not 
leak. Thanks to the ship-carpenters of Mauritius ! 

The savages that had dogged us upon the reef now sur- 
rounded us, shouting wildly ; and we at first imagined that they 
intended an attack ; but they soon entered into trade, and I sat 
upon the starboard davit, receiving their articles, and paying 
them as rapidly as possible. One rough savage murmured at 
the price I had paid him, and, becoming quite exasperated, be- 
cause I took no notice of him, he seized a javelin, shook it at 
me, and threatened to take my life if I did not give him a piece 
of iron as big as I had given another native. I sprang inboard, 
and the spear that had been aimed at my body struck the 
davit. I ran to the arm-chest, seized a musket, and returned to 
the stern. The captain had preceded me, and, levelling his 
rifle, shot the savage dead. The host of savages, who appear- 
ed to have been innocent of aiiy intention to attack us, but had 
come to engage in a peaceful trade, now became alarmed, and, 
uttering a shout, they commenced a rapid retreat. The crew, 
who were much excited after our narrow escape from the reef, 
seeing the captain fire his rifle, and mistaking the shout of the 
savages for a signal of attack, seized their arms and poured a 
volley of balls into the midst of the retreating natives, many 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 283 

of whom were killed and wounded. " Cease firing ! cease 
firing !" bellowed the captain. So suddenly had all this taken 
place, that for a moment I was completely stunned, amid the 
cracking of musketry, the shouts and oaths of the seamen, and 
the piercing shrieks of the wounded natives. One canoe off 
the starboard quarter presented a most affecting scene. It 
was paddled by an old man and his two sons, who were pleas- 
ant-looking, tall, and athletic. Their heads were decorated 
with crimson flowers, attached to their hair, probably by their 
sweethearts. They were endeavouring to come alongside of 
the vessel, intent only upon entering into a lucrative trade, and 
quite unconscious of giving any offence. The young men 
smiled pleasantly, highly elated at the prospect of soon return- 
ing to their sweethearts with presents of gewgaws obtained 
from the white men. It was at this moment that the firing 
commenced. Both of the young men were mortally wounded ; 
one fell forward at his paddle a corpse, and the other leaped 
into the sea, where he struggled with death in terrible agony. 
He shrieked, and groaned, and sank gurgling, while his hands 
nervously grasped the air above the surface. With a des- 
perate effort, he again rose, with his head above water, his 
wounds all the while pouring forth their thick streams of crim- 
son blood, to mingle with the ocean's brine. The poor old 
man ! he bravely and nobly resolved to sacrifice his own life 
in saving that of his son, for he lingered near after the whole 
fleet had departed. We made all the friendly signs in our 
power, and assured him that we would not harm him. With 
much difficulty he lifted his son from the water and laid him 
beside the cold body of his brother. The old man's strength 
was overcome ; but he seized his paddle, and cried and sobbed 
in the deepest anguish, while the current drifted his canoe 
down the lagoon towards the open sea. Night shut him from 
our view. 

A deep melancholy settled upon us. 

" Since we struck that coral locker, we've sprung aleak if 
the brig hasn't," said a Jack. 

" We've got the dropsy in our peepers," said a second. 

" I'd sooner see my old father die," said a third. 

I lay restlessly in my berth, and, rising at midnight, went on 
deck. All was silent on board, save the regular tread of thQ 



284 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

sentinels, but not so on shore. A blazing fire in the cocoa- 
grove marked the spot where the natives had assembled to 
mourn over the dead, and invoke curses upon the white men, 
who had plunged so many families in wretchedness and mis- 
ery. Torches moved to and fro, carried by processions of 
savages, whose dusky forms were seen circling round the fire, 
while their voices came pealing on the ear, chanting a solemn 
and mournful requiem, accompanied by the clang of the tum- 
tum. It was one of the most solemn " wakes" that I ever 
witnessed ; and the very ocean, as it tumbled upon the reefs, 
seemed to chant a dirge in solemn chorus. Alas ! who shall 
repair the damages inflicted by ourselves on these unoffending 
islanders 1 

I prayed for some " oblivious" draught, that would enable 
me to forget all that had occurred. What right have we to 
compass sea and land in search of pearls, gold-dust, diamonds, 
tortoise-shell, and paradise-birds, to adorn the brow of beauty, 
when in doing so we must leave weeping eyes and bleeding 
hearts behind us ? 

" Death comes to all in wayward form, 
In peaceful guise, or vengeful storm : 

All must his presence share. 
Hark ! heard ye not that note of fear 
Burst wildly on the palsied ear? 

Far in the tangled woody shore, 
Wild shriek on shriek, and pray'r on pray'r, 
And deepest curses on the strangers, mingle there ; 
But Providence is just to all alike, 
And God's right arm is bound to strike 

The coward down to hell." 

A native dog from one of the canoes swam alongside for 
protection ; we took him on board and kept him several days ; 
he refused all the food that we offered him, would not make 
any friendship with us, and pined away to a mere skeleton. 
We finally gave him to some natives, who took him on shore. 

The next day no canoes or natives could be seen, and we 
would willingly have departed from this place, but we had no 
rudder. The carpenter went to work making one out of tim- 
ber that we cut in the forest upon the main. The armorer rig- 
ged up his forge and made iron pintals. The Kanakers dove 
down and examined the bottom of the vessel. The splice in 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 285 

the keel abreast of the forerigging was started, the copper torn 
off in many places, and several holes cut quite through the 
outside sheathing that had been put on in Mauritius. We were 
gratified to find that the vessel was still in a condition to pros- 
ecute the voyage, and, if it came to the worst, we could put 
into Garove Bay, Morrell's Group, and careen. We were in 
daily fear that the savages would concentrate their forces to 
attack us for the purpose of taking revenge. On the morning 
of the second day after the unfortunate fracas, a fleet of ca- 
noes, filled with armed warriors, crossed our stern to recon- 
noitre. A celebrated brave delivered us a threatening ha- 
rangue, and motioned us to begone, as he whirled his carbo- 
gourd violently over his head, and spouted the lime from the 
hole towards us. We remarked that most of the natives were 
painted black with charcoal, probably in mourning. On the 
fifth day after we struck the reef, the rudder was completed. 
We weighed anchor, and sailed through the lagoon to the west- 
ward. From day to day we anchored in different places to 
trade with the natives. Rugurar and his grenadier daughter 
visited us on board the vessel, and we returned the visit on 
shore, where the natives, particularly our old friends, the 
women, received us with kindness and hospitality. 

We found Molarpu in good health and spirits, and our Jacks 
spent two jolly days on shore with his people. The Nyap- 
pans and Kanakers were great men here. They could not 
speak the language, but the colour of their bodies was a free 
passport. The two former were much surprised at the great 
difference between the manners and customs of these people 
and those of their own. The volcanic spear was to them a 
great curiosity ; and they made a collection of everything cu- 
rious to take home and show their people. Wonger fell deeply 
in love with a plump and handsome girl, and would fain have 
taken her with him, but her father objected, and, when we de- 
parted, the two impromptu lovers took a final farewell. Won- 
ger was much affected as he embraced the maiden for the last 
time, and her bosom swelled with deep emotion, for a mutual 
flame seemed to have been kindled between them 
" Oh love ! what is it in this world of ours 

That makes it fatal to be loved ? oh ! why 
With cypress branches hast thou wreathed thy bowers, 

And made thy best interpreter a sigh?" 



286 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Onward we sped. A party of natives came off to trade, and 
we anchored. A chief stole a piece of iron, and we took it 
from him. This affair came near costing us much trouble with 
the warlike host. 

The next morning we got under way. Near the west end 
of the lagoon we discovered a fine bay in Marso. We sailed 
into it and anchored. I name it Bouck Bay, after the Gov- 
ernor of the State of New- York. It faces the north, and sev- 
eral islets lie in front of its mouth. A bluff clay bank extend- 
ed across the bay, dividing it into two parts. A deep channel 
was gashed through the bank, leading into the small inner har- 
bour, where a vessel could lay the same as if she had been in 
a dock. The shores were uninhabited. We landed and made 
a thorough exploration of this singular bay. Near the clay 
bluff we got soundings in eleven fathoms. We discovered a 
small stream of fresh water. Large oysters were abundant, 
and we gathered some cockles that were more than a foot 
long. While cruising around in the Sylph, I saw a water- 
snake floating calmly upon the surface. He moved not at our 
approach ; a sailor ran a pike down his throat, and we hauled 
him in the boat ; he was six feet long, and resembled an adder. 
We had an oyster-stew for supper, and the sailors pronounced 
it as good as if it had been made of " York Bays." 

Two days after this we were cruising off the northwest end 
of Marso, among dangerous shoals. The soundings were very 
irregular, from seven to three fathoms, and then no bottom. 
Once we thumped heavily, and we saw bottom in many pla- 
ces. We discovered a fine bay, and endeavoured to enter it, 
but the mouth was so blocked up with shoals, that, before we 
could find a passage, we were overtaken by a thunder, light- 
ning, and rain squall. We were soon riding by two anchors 
in a heavy seaway. In the morning we got under way and 
put to sea. After cruising several days to the northward 
in quest of new islands, we returned to the east end of Marso, 
and anchored in Root Bay, near the town. A friendly com- 
munication was soon opened with the inhabitants, and they 
flocked around us unarmed. They informed us that the pirates 
still continued their depredations upon the coast, and had once 
landed in the night time, expecting to surprise and destroy the 
town ; but they had been driven off with a loss of three killed 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 287 

and five wounded. We remained two days with these people, 
and entered heartily and pleasantly into their amusements. 

On the morning of the third day after our arrival, we got 
under way, and coasted the southeast side of Marso, inside 
and outside of the reefs. Large numbers of bold and enter- 
prising savages surrounded us through the day. At night we 
lay to. The sky was soon clouded over, and the night became 
very dark, and a current drifted us upon a coral reef. The 
keel struck the bottom violently several times before we were 
able to extricate ourselves from the perilous situation. The 
coral groves beneath the vessel presented a beautiful appear- 
ance, and were illuminated by schools of fish, that looked like 
so many balls of fire. Nothing can surpass the beauty of 
these marine forests, which have been well described by a 
gifted American poet : 

" Deep in the wave is a coral grove, 
Where the purple mullet and gold-fish rove; 
"Where the sea-flower spreads its leaves of blue, 
That never are wet with falling dew, 
But in bright and changeful beauty shine 
Far down in the green and grassy brine. 
There, with its waving blade of green, 

The sea-flag streams through the silent water; 
And the crimson leaf of the dulse is seen 

To blush like a banner bathed in slaughter." 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

The next day we took our departure from Marso, and were 
soon out of sight of land, ploughing our way through the waters 
of the Pacific. On a pleasant morning we saw Morrell's Group, 
and anchored near Nyappa. Darco came on board, and the 
vessel was soon surrounded by natives of both sexes, as usual. 
Wringer and Pongaracoopo exhibited their curiosities, and 
their people listened with wonder to the tales which they re- 
lated about the foreign countries that they had visited. Won- 
ger's wife came on board, and he embraced her tenderly; but 
the cunning fox said nothing about his affaire de cceur at Mar- 
so. w and myself slept with Darco at the palace two 



288 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

nights, and he told us of his unparalleled success in pearl- 
diving and tortoise-shell hunting. The grape-vines and trees 
were flourishing. The peach-tree seemed to have been planted 
in a congenial soil and climate. Tevvatse was in her usual 
health and spirits, and reminded me of the Rumacker upon the 
opposite side of the glen ; but fate decided that at present I 
was not properly equipped to found a colony, although the 
scheme was simple and practicable, and but small pecuniary 
means were required. On the afternoon of the third day after 
our arrival, we bade all our kind friends farewell, after having 
made and received many presents. We got under way and 
put to sea, and by dark no land was in sight. After cruising 
about for several days in quest of new lands, and having met 
with some success, we stopped to open a trade with the na- 
tives of Bouka. In a few days more we arrived off the north 
coast of Bidera, and anchored in a beautiful bay which we 
had before discovered, but not explored. I name it Atkinson 
Bay, after my friend A. S. Atkinson, of New- York. The shores 
were covered with forests, and were uninhabited. At its foot 
rose two abrupt mountain peaks, which I name the Two Sis- 
ters. Our route in and out is marked ; we anchored in three 
places. We cut wood upon the island marked 2, and planted 
Indian corn, melon, cabbage, radish, and cultivated nutmeg 
seed upon the island marked 3. On the latter island we found 
the wild nutmeg-tree ; it was loaded with fruit, the green husk 
of which had burst open, and presented to view the crimson 
mace, contrasting strongly with the deep-green foliage of the 
tree, and giving it a most imposing appearance. The sandy 
beach in most places was overgrown with mangrove-trees, 
that threw their branches many feet into the water, forming 
sombre and intricate grottoes. The river on the east side of the 
bay is about three hundred feet broad, and averages eight feet 
in depth. A bar, with only four feet water upon it at low tide, 
obstructed the mouth of the river. We ascended it in the 
squadron for about two miles, where we found the water fresh. 
The soil upon the shore was rich, and covered with scattering 
groves of palm and other trees, that presented a cheering and 
lovely scenery as we sailed along. Not a native was seen. 

The following engraving represents an eye sketch of Atkin- 
son Bay. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



289 




The next day we were under way, threading the reefs, and 
on the following day anchored in the Lagoon of Carwary. 
King Garry and suite came on board to welcome our arrival, 
and the vessel was, as usual, soon surrounded by natives. 
The next day I visited the palace. Garry had taken unto him- 
self a wife during our absence. Her name was Carboleo ; she 
was the daughter of Carpo, and the belle of Carwary. She was 
slender and well proportioned ; her features expressive, eyes 
black and keen, teeth even and pearly, bust full and well de- 
veloped, and with limbs finely chiselled and rounded ; she 
wore tortoise-shell rings in her ears, and her hair was orna- 
mented with a comb and flowers. She received the Doondoo 
knight with a majestic and gracious smile. My old friends, 
the queen's daughters, were still very kind, and I slept at the 
palace. In the morning I remarked that the young women 
looked melancholy and were in mourning. "What was the 
matter?" Lion was dead ! the pet of the royal family. Poor 
dog ! he had accompanied his master on a wild-boar hunt in 
Bidera. He had brought a ferocious boar to bay upon the 
verge of a rocky precipice. During the fight that ensued, the 
enraged animal buried his tusk into the bowels of Lion, and 
they both fell over the precipice. Garry and his warriors, 
hurrying to the rescue, ranged along the precipice and rent the 
air with mournful wailings, as they looked into a chasm and 

6b 



290 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

beheld the mangled forms of Lion and the boar upon the jag- 
ged rocks. The lifeless body of the sacred ban-dog was con- 
veyed to Carvvary. A mournful wake was held over his body 
by the royal family and by the populace, for his death was es- 
teemed a national calamity. His body was embalmed. The 
populace followed him to his coral tomb in solemn tread, to 
the tune of the tum-tums. Garry and his sisters conducted 
me to Lion's tomb : it was a small mound, decked with coral- 
fans and evergreens, and shaded by stately trees. The young 
women and Garry took the loss of the dog much to heart, for 
he had been their pet, and they had nursed him with much care. 

We visited the plantations upon Bidera, and found the grape- 
vines and other plants growing finely. Garry seemed likely 
to prosper, and we bade him and the royal family a final adieu. 
Witn tears in their eyes they entreated us to stay ; but we got 
under way and departed, cruizing along the shores of Bidera 
to the westward. The scenery presented to view was beauti- 
ful and picturesque ; sloping and undulating prairies, bespan- 
gled with woodlands. We discovered and anchored in a ro- 
mantic little cove, with rural islets forming either side of its 
mouth. We had twelve fathoms of water near the land. A 
narrow strip of land, compassing the cove, is low and covered 
with trees, but immediately back of this there rose a lofty par- 
apet covered with grass, and in the rear of which there seem- 
ed to be a broad valley, from which rose smoke, while in the 
distance the view was bounded by lofty mountains. On the 
west side of the cove there rose a remarkable mound, fifty feet 
high. It was conical, destitute of trees, and covered with 
grass. A cannon planted upon it would command the whole 
cove. The country was uninhabited here, but the district to 
the westward was under the dominion of the chief Kolaie. 

The next day we sailed to the westward, and discovered a 
river, near the mouth of which we anchored. The next day 
we explored the river in the squadron. It was about two hun- 
dred feet broad and two fathoms deep. There was a bar at its 
mouth, and we came to several shoals, where we were forced 
to wade in the water and drag the squadron over. We passed 
a small island. The soil was a black loam, covered with trees, 
and the scenery beautiful. The convolvulus major ran up 
many of the trees, and spread over the bank in full bloom. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 291 

We opened a friendly communication with a party of natives, 
who were headed by Voharie, a warrior of note. He present- 
ed us a dog and a bag filled with nuts, that resembled what we 
call Brazil-nuts. The water in the river was pure and fresh, 
and we took three casks in the Invincible up the stream and 
filled them. Upon returning, the flag-ship grounded upon the 
bar, and the natives came, en masse, and carried her over safe- 
ly. A great many parrots fluttered and screamed among the 
trees. At night we were roused by the cr)' of" fire !" Smoke 
blew down the hatchway, and the first impression was that 
the vessel was on fire. But it proved to be on shore. The 
forest was on fire, and soon began to burn with fearful force, 
the red flames darting up and illuminating the impending cloud 
of smoke, while the burning trees crackled loudly, and cinders 
flew over the vessel. We weighed anchor and made sail to 
the westward. On the following day we anchored in front ol 
a_ large village, and were kindly received by Tantemilelooe 
and his people. At night we joined a grand dance upon the 
beach. The natives chanted a peculiar song, and rattled 
gourds that were filled with shells. In the morning the wom- 
en brought us fruit in baskets, which they carried upon their 
heads. The time passed rapidly away, in a continued round 
of games and pastimes, and sporting in the surf. On the fol- 
lowing morning we took our departure, coasting along to the 
westward. We discovered a bay and a small river. The next 
day w T e passed Cape Gloucester, crossed Dampier's Strait, and 
coasted along the north side of Dampier's Island, the scenery 
upon which was picturesque and lovely. At dark we arrived 
opposite its northwest end, from which projects two reefs that 
form a fine harbour. To the northward, in the distance, is 
■seen a high island, and near by an uninhabited islet. We es- 
sayed to enter the harbour, but, night coming on, we scudded 
away southwest, across Gonoro Strait. In the morning we 
were in sight of the lofty mountains of Papua, the north shore 
of which we now coasted to the westward. The coast here 
trends W.N.W. and E.S.E. At 11 A.M. we discovered a sec- 
ondary islet, situated near the main. It was covered with co- 
coanut-trees and wigwams, and was connected to the main by 
a double chain of coral reefs, nearly even with the water's 
edge, which enclosed a deep and placid lagoon ; while there 



292 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



extended into the mainland, directly opposite the island, a re« 
markable little circular bay. Directly west of the island and 
reefs there was a deep hollow or bay, extending into the 
shores of the main. The immediate shore was low, and lined 
with flourishing groves of cocoanut, banana, bread-fruit, and 
other trees, while in the background rose undulating land, 
bounded by mountains. The scenery was at once picturesque 
and imposing. The island upon which the town is situated 
I took the liberty to call Jacobs Island ; the lagoon and bay 
will take the same name. 

The following chart is an eye sketch of the above island 
and bay. 




The land in the interior of Papua seemed to be formed by 
vast table-lands, divided into timber and prairie, back of which 
there appeared to be a great valley, while in the distance 
loomed lofty mountains clothed with forests. We afterward 
learned from the natives that a vast river coursed through the 
latter valley. 

A number of large canoes, with masts resembling those of 
Gonoro, were drawn upon the beach of Jacobs Island, and a 
host of black savages, armed with bows and arrows, stood near 
them. There appeared to be a great commotion among the sav- 
ages ; and many canoes, filled with them, crossed the lagoon to 
the main. We entered the lagoon with the squadron, and landed 
upon the south side of Jacobs Island. At first the savages 
seemed disposed to fight ; but we succeeded in opening a 
friendly trade with them for tortoise and pearl shell, large 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 293 

rings of which they wore in their ears. The hair of the men 
was crisp and bushy, and they wore large whiskers. The 
women, old and young, came to gaze at us, and we easily 
made them our friends by caressing and praising their chil- 
dren. 

The next day the vessel was surrounded by a fleet of canoes, 
and we bought pearls and pearl-shell that surpassed the lar- 
gest and finest Sooloo. The tortoise-shell, too, was large and 
beautifully mottled. Our cupidity was roused. The captain 
invited the chiefs on board, and entertained them sumptuously. 
He presented them many valuables, and they informed us that 
gold-dust and diamonds abounded in the interior, and promised 
to collect them for us, and have them ready against our return. 
We embarked in the squadron and followed the canoe of the 
principal chief, who led us across the lagoon into the circular 
bay, where he halted, and, pointing to the bottom of the water, 
cried, " Vutico erroco!" (plenty of pearls). With buoyant 
hearts and elated hopes, we dropped overboard the great iron 
rake, and fastened the rope to the stern of the Invincible, which 
set all sail, dragging the rake after her. A host of wondering 
savages had gathered round us in canoes, and the Sylph and 
Tempest guarded the flag-ship on either side. Soon the rake 
became anchored. We hitched on the tackles and hoisted 
away ; it came up heavy. " Plenty of pearls now," said a 
Jack. " Fortunes made !" The rake rose above the surface 
of the water. The savages shouted wildly and rushed upon 
us ! We examined the priming of the swivels, and were 
about raking them with langrage, when it appeared that they 
only came to claim a big earthen pot that had been lost over- 
board many years ago, and was now safe in our rake, filled 
with sand ! We cursed our credulity, gave the natives their 
pot, stowed away the rake, and set all sail for the vessel. The 
natives called us back and presented us fruit, at the same time 
thanking us for the recovery of their pot. In fact, they re- 
joiced much, and looked upon us with more favourable eyes 
than ever, for we had now shown ourselves of some use to them. 
They took us to be gods from the sun, who had come to pick 
up all the treasures that had been lost in the sea, and even, if 
necessary, to raise the dead, which they supposed we could do 
as easily as we had raised the pot. 

B b2 



294 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTUllES 



The following drawing represents a warrior of Jacobs Isl- 
and in full costume. 




The next day we got under way and coasted to the west- 
ward. We passed considerable drift-wood, and the ocean was 
clay coloured, with water from rivers that emptied into it here- 
about. We at first mistook the coloured water for a shoal. 
The land was mountainous, and two cascades were seen tum- 
bling and dancing down a rocky chasm, and glittering in the 
sunshine like precious gems, that became lost for a time as 
they gently meandered, through tropical foliage, over a pla- 
teau, where their waters silently mingled, and, finally, tum- 
bling in one gand cataract through a gashed chasm into the 
sea. At night we saw fires burning upon the mountains. 

The next day we anchored in a spacious bay. Four large 
canoes, with thatched roofs and masts, were drawn upon the 
eastern beach, and natives stood by them gazing at us. We 
landed ; the natives abandoned their canoes and fled into the 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 295 

forest. They were evidently a travelling party, bound on a 
voyage along the coast, for we saw no signs of inhabitants 
here. In the canoes we found culinary utensils, sago, cocoa- 
nuts, bananas, sweet potatoes, &c. ; some of the latter were 
boiling in a pot. We also saw some bows and arrows, and 
ornaments of pearl and tortoise shell. Hanging some trinkets 
upon the bows of the canoes, we returned on board the vessel. 

The next morning the canoes were not to be seen. We 
landed, all armed and equipped, at the mouth of a river, and 
the captain delivered us an harangue, after having formed us 
in line. He told us that we were now about to penetrate a 
country that no civilized man had yet dared to explore — a 
country which the best authorities inform us is peopled by a 
race of men called " Haraforas," who are very savage, and live 
in " hollow-trees." With this he marched up stream, and we 
after him in Indian file. 

The bed of the river was over four hundred feet wide ; but 
it was now nearly dry, and strewed with stones, sand, and rocks 
in confusion, having no doubt been carried down by the tor- 
rents from the mountains, that rush through this channel to- 
wards the sea during the rainy season. A narrow channel of 
water coursed its tortuous way through the bed of the river. 
It was up the bed of this river that we marched, ever and anon 
fording the stream to take " short-cuts" by compass. The 
blankets, provisions, and trading articles were stowed in bags, 
one of each being secured to a pole that was carried by two 
men. The crew were divided into relief squads, and they took 
regular turns in carrying the bags. For the first few miles 
the soil was rather poor, but at noon we ascended rapidly, 
and came into a beautiful undulating country, diversified with 
prairie and woodlands. 

We shot several Paradise birds, and marched onward with- 
out meeting with any natives. Near dark we came to a larger 
river than the one we had ascended, which only appeared to 
be a branch of the larger one, that here turned suddenly to the 
eastward, forming an island at its junction. We forded the 
most shallow part of the stream, and camped for the night upon 
the island. We built a rousing fire, ate supper, went into 
grand smoking council, rolled ourselves in blankets, and Jay 
down to sleep. I was suddenly startled from a sound sleep by 



296 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

the cry, " To arms ! to arms ! Haraforas !" I jumped to my 
feet, rifle in hand, simultaneously with the whole camp. Sure- 
ly enough, canoes filled with savages were indistinctly seen 
approaching us, and we heard the splashing of their paddles. 
" Who comes there !" shouted the captain ; no answer was 
given ; we fired at random ; cries in return were heard, but all 
soon became still. We had probably wounded some hippopot- 
amus or crocodile. 

In the morning the rising sun displayed to us the grandeur 
and beauty of the surrounding scenery. The birds carolled 
their matin hymns, and alighted along the margin of the stream 
to wash themselves and bathe their wings in the water. 

After breakfast and a bath, we resumed our march up stream. 
Our feet were somewhat sore from the previous day's march. 
t: A diamond!" cried a sailor; but his prize proved to be a 
crystal. We were all on the qui vive, and occupied the whole 
day in searching for these valuable gems, as well as for gold- 
dust. W T e met with various success, much better in the main 
than we had anticipated, and saw enough to convince us that 
precious stones abound in Papua. At aright we camped upon 
a rocky bluff, and fortified ourselves as well as we could against 
apprehended assault, for we had heard voices in the forest. 

The next day we were again moving onward. " Haraforas !" 
cried every one. A party of savages, followed by a pack of 
dogs, hove in sight ahead, crossing the stream. At first sight 
of us they stood motionless and speechless. We held up 
trinkets and made friendly signs. The dogs barked, the sav- 
ages fled like stricken deer along a path leading up a preci- 
pice, with the dogs in full chase after them. Upon the verge 
of the beetling bluff they halted to take another look at us, as 
we advanced making friendly signs. At length they seemed 
convinced that we were friends ; and the chief of the party, stand- 
ing upon the verge of the bluff, looked down upon us and deliv- 
ered a long harangue, not one word of which could we under- 
stand. We ascended the bluff, and the natives again retreated 
slowly for a short distance. The captain and W now ad- 
vanced towards them alone, making friendly signs, and with 
much difficulty succeeded in opening a friendly communication 
with them. We presented them beads and gewgaws, which 
they played with and admired like so many children. Then 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 



297 



they pointed to us, and held the palms of their hands towards 
the sun, which they worship as the Good Spirit, signifying, as 
we understood them, that we were children of the sun, and had 
come down to visit this world for their special good, and to 
make them presents. The following drawing represents the 
interview of our party with these natives. 







With this they beckoned us to follow, and strided up along 
the river bank ; we followed close upon their heels. They led 
us a long tramp, over hill and dale, until at length we traversed 
a strip of rich bottom-land, fringed by a silvery creek, and well 
cultivated and stocked with edible roots. Ascending a hill 
that overlooked the plantations, we came upon a rolling pla- 
teau, covered with groves of cocoanut, banana, bread-fruit, 
and various ornamental trees that were entirely new to us. 
Beneath the foliage of these beautiful groves were scattered 
numerous neat thatched houses. A host of curious natives 
came to greet us, holding the palms of their hands towards the 
sun. "We were conducted to the principal house and intro- 
duced to Bivartoo, the aged chief of the village. We made 
him presents ; he was very friendly, and feasted us upon deli- 
cious fruits ; we judged him, from his appearance, to be at 
least 90 years old. At night we slept upon our arms in a 
house that had been set apart for the Spirits of the Sun. The 
next morning we left our provisions in the house, and, guided 
by the natives, ascended the mountain for three miles, where 
we came to another village, and near by discovered, what we 



298 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

had so long sought for, the precious sandal- wood. We cut 
samples of it, and returned to the village. Our provisions 
were safe ; the natives dared not enter the house, for it had 
been tabooed by Bivartoo. We were much surprised at see- 
ing two singular-looking animals pass by the house with a 
cocoanut in each hand. They were a male and female 
orang-outang, and had been domesticated, so that they wait- 
ed upon themselves, and were esteemed good citizens, none 
the worse, perhaps, because they could not talk. They were 
three feet high, had but little hair on their bodies, and walked 
bolt upright. They grinned at each other, and then, laughing 
at our strange appearance, passed on, without wishing to have 
anything to do with us. We endeavoured to buy these crea- 
tures, but the natives refused to sell them. 

Bivartoo told us by signs that over the mountain there was 
a great valley, through which coursed a vast river, upon the 
banks of which were the ruins of cities, built by a race of men 
who had become extinct ; that enormous animals, with great 
teeth and moving noses, now roamed over the valley ; and that 
there, too, existed orang-outangs of large size, who some- 
times marched in armies, armed with stones and clubs, to beat 
off the monsters. The natives of the island were a good-look- 
ing, athletic race of red men, with rather curly hair. Their 
language was harmonious, as spoken with their musical voi- 
ces. Some of the young women were quite handsome. In 
fact, these people were a different race from those upon the 
coast ; they had less of the negro about them, and their lan- 
guage was entirely different from that spoken by the natives 
of Jacobs Island. They go entirely naked, and were not cir- 
cumcised, like the other natives we had seen. They seemed 
to be governed by patriarchs, or the old men among them, who 
were held in great respect. Their villages never become very 
large. When the population becomes so numerous that the 
different families lose their affection or friendly feeling for 
each other, the discontented families, headed by a man whom 
they respect, march off some distance to a desirable site and 
found a new village. As they obtain their subsistence from 
the fruits of the soil, their life is generally spent in domestic 
peace and happiness. They have less incentive to warfare 
and bloodshed than the Indians of North America, who depend 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 299 

upon the chase for support, and are always ready to massacre 
those tribes who are driven by hunger to infringe upon their 
hunting-grounds, which at best afford them a scanty subsist- 
ence. This primitive, agricultural manner of life renders the 
country also capable of maintaining a population far more nu- 
merous than could subsist by the chase. 1 he domestic hen 
abounded here, and of the finest species. The climate upon 
these hills was bland and refreshing. 

The next day we bade Bivartoo and his people farewell, and 
took up our line of march homeward. We had marked our 
courses and distances upon paper during our march hither, and 
we now pursued a different route by compass, striking across 
the prairies and through the woodlands. We collected many 
beautiful and singular flowers, and the natives explained to us 
the medicinal properties of many herbs with which before we 
had been entirely unacquainted. After a fatiguing march, we 
camped at night upon the verge of a forest and built a rous- 
ing fire. 

The next day we saw a great many large monkeys, or ba- 
boons, skipping along the branches of the trees, and chattering 
loudly. They were a curious set of brutes, and some of them 
carried their cubs in their arms and suckling at their breasts 
We fell in with a party of savages, and made them presents. 
The chiefs wore tigers' tails, fastened to their neck ornaments 
and hanging down behind, as a badge of knighthood. Nearly 
all the next night we were kept in continual alarm by the 
dreadful howling and roaring of wild beasts. The next day 
we arrived safe on board the vessel. 

The next morning, at the break of day, we weighed anchor 
and coasted to the westward as usual. Cheerily our clipper 
craft sped over the deep-blue sea, while a beautiful and varied 
scenery was presented to view upon the land. The beach was 
literally lined with groves of cocoanut-trees for miles, beneath 
which, here and there, were collections of wigwams. The 
population appeared numerous, and the natives upon the beach 
cheered us on, by playing national airs upon pandean pipes, 
buccinums, and tum-tums. We backed the main topsail, and 
soon a fleet of canoes were alongside, filled with enterprising 
warriors, well armed with bows and arrows. In one was a 
soecies of bulldog, the first we bad seen in Tropical Austra- 



300 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

lasia. The canoes of these natives were made of a hollow log, 
with a figure elaborately carved at either end, representing the 
head of some monster. An outrigger and float prevented them 
from capsizing. The following drawing represents one of 
these canoes. 




CHAPTER XXX. 

During the night we made rapid progress, and the next aay 
anchored in a spacious bay, with an island in the centre at its 
mouth. The shores were lined with cocoanut-trees. A great 
many canoes put off from the town and came alongside to 
trade, making a great clamour. We bought many birds of par- 
adise and considerable pearl and tortoise shell for a mere song. 
At night we saw the natives, with torches, upon the beach of 
the small island, hunting the hawk's-bill tortoise. We became 
quite intimate with these people, and the next day were visited 
by the noted warrior Rolumballa. He was a large, noble- 
looking man. His hair was supported in the form of a cone 
upon his head, being confined in a platted grass basket. 
Through his nose was thrust a piece of ivory, from his ears 
hung enormous tortoise-shell rings, around his neck was a 
string of human teeth, upon his breast a boar's tusk, and in his 
hands a spear and sling. The following drawing is a likeness 
of Rolumballa. 

The next day we visited the village, and were kindly receiv- 
ed by the natives. In company with several of the principal 
chiefs, we performed a two days' journey into the interior, in 
quest of gold-dust. We discovered the clove and the camphor 
tree, and upon the slope of the mountains fell in with a race 
of men whose faces were singularly tattooed with hieroglyph- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 



301 




ics. We also discovered the mouth of a great cave, and the 
rock that composed its mouth appeared to have once been chis- 
elled into the form of images and ornaments, but the ruthless 
hand of time had so defaced them that we could not distinguish 
the form of the carvings. These natives confirmed the stories 
that we had before heard, viz., that there was a great valley, 
a great river, great monsters, and a singular race of men 
in the interior of the island. Much gratified with the discov- 
eries that we had made, we returned on board the vessel in 
safety. 

The following drawing represents the canoe used by these 
natives. They use paddles with long handles, and stand up 
when they paddle. No. 1 represents the paddle ; No. 2 and 3 
is a correct drawing of the spear and ballista. The latter is 
an instrument used for throwing the former with great force, 
by inserting the end of the shaft in the socket, by means of 
which the hand darts the spear forward in the same manner 
that a boy casts an apple from the end of a stick. 




i » j r: gg=ss 




Having completed our trade here, we got under way, coast- 

Cc 



302 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

ing the land as before. The next day we saw coloured water 
ahead, and at first supposed it to be a shoal, but it proved to 
be the water from a large river that here emptied into the 
ocean, and coloured it for fifteen or twenty miles to seaward. 
We anchored at the mouth of the river, and the next day ex- 
plored it twenty miles in the squadron. We saw no natives 
or habitations. The country was low and alluvial, and cover- 
ed with a stately growth of trees. We encountered much 
flood-wood, and upon the banks of the river were strewed the 
trunks of large trees, upon one of which lay, quietly sunning 
himself, a large crocodile with his upper jaw thrown back, ex- 
hibiting his red mouth and white teeth. We levelled our rifles 
at his throat, and fired. He gave one scream, shut his mouth, 
and, sliding into the turbid water, disappeared. 

The next day we got under way. In the afternoon the face 
of the country had entirely changed. It became mountainous, 
and was covered with forests ; and at night we saw blazing 
fires upon the hills. On the following morning we anchored 
in a spacious bay, where we rode secure from all wind and 
sea. A great many savages came off, and we carried on a 
lucrative trade with them for tortoise and pearl shell, and par- 
adise birds. The next day we explored the bay in the squa- 
dron, and dragged the bottom for pearl-shells, assisted by the 
Kanakers. We discovered a fresh-water river, and landed at 
a village, where the natives received us kindly, and gave us 
fruit, and " cigars" of their own manufacture. In some of the 
gardens were growing the finest and largest tobacco plants 
that I have ever seen. The hair of some of the men was 
painted red, with a mixture of cocoanut oil and Venitian red. 
We saw some natives chopping upon canoes with hatchets of 
green jasper. We penetrated a short distance into the forest ; 
discovered the cinnamon-tree, and another singular tree, the 
wood of which we thought might be valuable for dyeing pur- 
poses. 

While at anchor in this bay, we painted the hull of the ves- 
sel entirely black (she previously had a white streak) ; and 
many were the surmises and conjectures of the crew about 
what the captain intended to do next. 

" Bound on a pirating cruise," guessed one. 

" We'll hoist the black ensign next," said another, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 303 

On the third day after entering the bay we weighed anchor, 
and put to sea. 

Once more on the deep-blue sea 

We'll sing a jolly song, 
With a charming land on our lee, 
That we are gliding along. 

The sailors sang the above cheerily, and the " sea lawyer" 
sang the following verse of his own composition, much to the 
delight of all hands : 

Here's a toast to all the girls 

Of Nyappa Island, so fair; 
Hot tongs to make their curls, 

Gold combs to deck their hair. 

The land was steep and lofty, and broken into numerous 
promontories, some of which ended in gashed clay bluffs. Be- 
tween these nestled little bays, with sandy beaches, and mount- 
ain streams pouring into them from the hills above. No signs of 
inhabitants could be seen. At night we passed a point, steer- 
ing W.N.W., and we could not see the land to the southward. 
We supposed that a very large bay put into the land here, and 
that we were crossing its mouth. The next morning we saw 
the west point of this bay. It was low, and we steered in for 
it. We soon discovered that it was composed of three beauti- 
ful secondary islands, surrounded by a coral reef. They were 
covered with groves of cocoanut-trees, and lie five miles from 
the main. They ranged east and west, with the length of each 
island, north and south. The native name of the most western 
of the three is Fadan; the next is called Yasoo, and the next 
Arooa. They were a new discovery, and are situated in latitude 
2° 09' S., longitude 139° 49' E. We anchored near their south 
side, between them and the mainland. A great many natives 
came off to trade With tortoise and pearl shell, paradise birds, 
&c. We landed, and found the natives very friendly. They 
presented us to eat sago bread, cocoanuts, and the kernels of 
roasted nuts, strung on strings. There were two kinds of the 
latter, one resembling the almond, and the other the Spanish 
chestnut. The sailors enjoyed a grand smoke on the beach, 
in company with the natives, who provided the cigars. We 
found these natives to be a jolly set of fellows. They laugh- 
ed and cracked jokes, and repeated, very distinctly, many 



304 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



words that the sailors taught them. All of them learned to 
say " smoke tobacco." Their language was pleasing and har- 
monious ; they seemed to talk the Italian of Papua, and call- 
ed iron, feraoo ; tortoise-shell, metee ; paradise bird, poose ; 
sago bread, bareomer ; cocoanut, neu ; moon, marto. They 
were great dandies, and wore their hair in the form of a cock- 
ed hat, decked with boars' tusk, cockade, paradise feathers, 
and beautiful red flowers. The following drawing shows the 
manner of wearing the hair. 




The canoes used by these natives were neatly constructed, 
with platform and basket-work railing, and a carved ornament 
at the stern. They were short, and intended to be paddled by 
four men each. The following drawing represents the canoe 
of Fadan. Nos. 1 and 2 are a bow and barbed arrow of Fadan. 
The latter is barbed with fish bones, and is a dangerous weapon, 
and can be thrown with great force by the bow, which is large 
and powerful. They are neatly constructed, and with surpri- 
sing skill. 




O Qu «* ■ " J' VT =^= 



—*V 



IS THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



305 



On the best charts we found this part of the coast of Papua 
marked too far to the north ; but none of them pretend to cor- 
rectness, for they are marked, " this coast but little known." 

It is as well for me to mention here, that twenty-five or 
thirty miles north of the coast of Papua, between the longi- 
tudes of 143° 50' and 146° 20' east, there extends a range of 
mountain islands which have never been explored. We sight- 
ed them from day to day in the distance, and the scenery upon 
them was verdant and beautiful. I know not whether they 
are inhabited. Two of them, which are contiguous, and are 
situated in latitude 4° 38' S., and longitude 145° 30' E., I name 
Audubon Islands, after John James Audubon, Esq. 

The following drawing represents the land view of these 
two islands. 




While at anchor at Fadan, we embarked in the squadron and 
made an exploration of two small islands to the eastward, and 
landed upon the main, where we followed a trail some distance 
into the forest. Suddenly we heard natives shouting. We 
concealed ourselves in the underwood. On came the savages, 
singing and sporting, perfectly unconscious of our presence. 
The voices sounded like those of females, and when they came 
quite close to us we saw that they were a party of girls, carrying 
calabashes in their hands. Up we rose, making friendly signs 
and displaying trinkets. The " ladies" uttered a frightful yell, 
tore up the ground with their hands, and emptied the contents 
of the calabashes (lime) upon their bodies, which gave them a 
spectral appearance. We approached them ; they fled in ter- 
ror, bounding into the forest with the lime blowing from their 
bodies. Some of the sailors attempted a pursuit, but the 
" ladies" had disappeared, leaving as booty their calabashes 
and a white cloud. We returned on board the vessel in safety. 

Cc2 



306 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

The natives of Fadan repeated to us all the previous stories 
that we had heard about the great river, &c. We now felt as- 
sured that such a river actually existed, but were at a loss to 
conjecture where its mouth could be situated. All our en- 
deavours to find it had proved fruitless, and we imagined that 
it must be somewhere upon the south coast. Having com- 
pleted our business at Fadan, we got under way and coasted 
to the westward. The shore was low, and lined with cocoa- 
trees. A great many natives came off in canoes. We hove 
to and bought leaf-tobacco and tortoise-shell of them, as well 
as bows and arrows. One of the natives wore in his ear a 
shell ring, to which was attached a lock of straight human 
hair. The hair of the natives was a long wool. In the midst 
of the trade, the captain most unfortunately let a chisel fall, 
so that its sharp edge gashed his leg to the very bone just 
above the ankle. The blood flowed freely, he turned pale, and 
became quite faint. We carried him below, put him in his 
berth, and dressed and bandaged the wound. 

The water looked green three miles from the shore, and we 
got soundings in nine fathoms. The next morning we were 
sailing through clay-coloured water, that extended many miles 
to seaward. Six miles from the coast we had soundings in 
ten fathoms, and the land was so low that we could not see it. 
We could see, however, the dense wall of straight and stately 
trees that grew upon it, and were brought to view by the fata 
morgana. One man stood continually in the chains, throwing 
the lead ; the soundings were regular and the bottom sandy. 
The water became more turbid ; we discovered an opening in 
the trees, and anchored in nine fathoms. 

The next day we embarked in the squadron and explored 
the opening, which we found to be the mouth of a vast river, 
that poured its waters into the sea with a moderate current, 
that carried along with it considerable quantities of trees or 
flood-wood. We saw no natives, and it was long after night- 
fall when we returned to the vessel and reported the discov- 
ery. The next day we were again under way, following the 
trend of the land, which still presented the same monotonous 
wall of trees. The water was turbid, as usual, and extended 
as far out to sea as we could see with our telescopes. At 
dark we discovered the mouth of another large river. No na^ 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 307 

tives could be seen. In the morning we doubled a point and 
followed the trend of the land to the southwest, with a long, 
high island in sight, off the starboard beam. The water was 
turbid and the land as low as usual. Five miles from the shore 
we had soundings in eight and a half fathoms. We discovered 
the mouth of another large river, and anchored near it. The 
next morning we were under way. We discovered the mouth 
of another river, encountered a strong current, and sailed 
through considerable flood-wood, that looked like canoes in 
the distance. We steered for a point of land that proved to 
be a small island, called Amnamma. We anchored near it in 
ten fathoms water. 

The next day natives came off in canoes, and among them 
were several Malays. Here we witnessed the first line of de- 
marcation between savage and civilized man. The contrast 
was painful. The Malays had seduced the natives, by intro- 
ducing the use of arrack among them, and several of them 
were intoxicated. They brought to sell fowls, smoked veni- 
son with the hair on, chillies, massoy-bark, amber, paradise 
birds preserved in bamboos, tortoise-shell, cocoanuts, sour 
oranges, bananas, mangosteen, a white animal resembling a 
sloth, &c. They also wanted to sell us several iron bolts and 
an iron strop, that looked as if it had been made for the boom 
iron of a boat. They bantered a great while before they 
would sell anything, and then wanted a high price. Some of 
these natives were tattooed with Chinese characters, and they 
wore rings, and beads, and remnants of calico, which they had 
probably obtained from the Malays. They were armed with 
bows and arrows. We did not like their looks or actions. Their 
canoes were mean affairs, and in one we saw an idol. One 
native, a good-looking negro, wore a turban of red silk, and 
another a Chinese hat. They had iron knives and spears, but 
their implements, canoes, and wigwams were far inferior to 
those we had seen among savages who had no tools but those 
of their own manufacture. 

From explorations which we now made in the squadron, and 
from information that we picked up from the natives, we be- 
came convinced that we had now discovered the delta of the 
river that coursed through the great valley, in which are situ- 
ated the ruined cities, and where roam the monsters. From 



308 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURESS 

latitude 139° E. to Amnamma Island, a distance of over 100 
miles, we discovered the mouths of several rivers. The coun- 
try was but. little elevated above the ocean, and the latter was 
cray-coloured many miles to seaward. That these rivers have 
a common origin, and are the mouths of one vast river that 
courses its way through the central part of Papua, and is at 
least 800 miles long, there cannot be a doubt. I give it the na- 
tive name, Bocander River. 

It is strange that this vast river should have remained totally 
unknown to the civilized world until the present day. I sin- 
cerely hope that the day is not far distant when an iron steam- 
er, properly equipped, will ascend this noble river and explore 
the interior of this, the largest and the richest island iir the 
world. The contemplation of this subject opens scenes of 
great splendour, and will afford ample scope for the exercise 
of the talent of the antiquarian, the geologist, the ornitholo- 
gist, the botanist, and, indeed, to all men of learning and sci- 
ence. Blessed with a delightful and healthy climate of per- 
petual summer, the explorers will not have to encounter the 
pestilential heat of Africa, nor the winters of what are, in com- 
parison, very improperly called " temperate regions." The 
world will anxiously await the clearing up of the mysteries of 
the ruins and the monsters of Bocander Valley ; and, from 
the conformation of the country, there is reason to suppose 
that in the bowels of the mountains lie concealed mines of 
gold, silver, tin, and copper, as well as precious stones. I am 
quite confident that the ornithological and botanical produc- 
tions of Papua cannot be surpassed in beauty and value by any 
region in the world. The varied species of the paradise bird 
are here found in all their splendour and glory, and I leave it 
to more learned heads than mine, and to future explorations of 
the great Bocander Valley, to decide whether it was not the 
Garden of Eden, the residence of Adam and Eve, and that 
Papua was once an integral portion of the Continent of Asia, 
from which it has been rent asunder by flood or by some ter- 
rible convulsion of nature. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



309 



CHAPTER XXXI 

About ten miles due west of Amnamma Island lies the east 
end of Jobie, in full view, and presenting a charming scenery 
of wooded hills and dales, apparently uninhabited. 

Having completed our explorations in this vicinity, we got 
under way and sailed to the westward, across the strait, hav- 
ing soundings in ten and a half fathoms. We soon neared the 
east end of Jobie, and got soundings in six fathoms. No signs 
of inhabitants could be seen, except some monkeys, who ran 
along the beach, grinning and chattering at us. We coasted 
the south side of the island to the westward. Jobie is about 
seventy miles long. The soil was rich and verdant, and the 
scenery was truly picturesque and beautiful. The hand of 
man had not intruded upon it, for the scenery was one of nat- 
ural beauty. At night we anchored near the beach. The next 
morning a fine large travelling-canoe came alongside, contain- 
ing men and women, fifteen in all. They were bound to the 
delta of the Bocander, and were well provided with cooking 
utensils, sago, and other provisions. They sold us a piece of 
white gum, which they called " carsee," and urged us to await 
their return, when they would have plenty of ambergris. As 
the canoe of these natives was a fair sample of the first class 
in use around Geelvink Bay, I present the following drawing 
of it. It is made out of one log, with two floats. The orna- 




ments at the stern and stem are separate pieces. The floats 
are attached to seven cross-bars, with one pin each, which are 
liable to pull out from the float. Upon the cut-water were 
graven several Chinese characters. This canoe, in strength 
and fleetness, and beauty of model, cannot compare with those 



310 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

of the savage tribes among whom we had been, who never 
saw iron. Upon this canoe we have the lumber of seven bars 
and two floats, without any braces. They are liable to get 
out of order, and are not half as strong as the three bars, the 
braces, and one float, of the canoes of Rolumballa and other 
tribes. 

We got under way, and the canoe left us. The population 
of this country has been much overrated. Indeed, the great 
mass of the land lies in a complete state of nature, uninhabit- 
ed. In the afternoon we discovered two beautiful bays, form- 
ed by a hollow in the land at the south point of Jobie and by 
several islets. We anchored in one. A party of natives came 
alongside in small canoes with one outrigger. They were 
provided with small bows and little split bamboo arrows, the 
points of which appeared to have been dipped in a poisonous 
liquid, expressly for shooting paradise birds. We bought sev- 
eral of the latter birds of them, ready cured for transportation. 
We also procured a live one that had just been captured. We 
tied him by the leg and seated him upon the main boom. His 
golden plumes glittered in the sun. He was a proud bird, and 
croaked and snapped spitefully at us when we went near him. 
It was our intention to bring a full collection of these rare and 
beautiful birds alive to America, for the purpose of exhibition. 
Their plumage is not only sought for to adorn the brow of 
beauty in Europe and America, but are in demand among the 
nabobs of Asia, who pay a great price for them. The grandees 
of China, Japan, and Persia decorate their persons and the 
trappings of their sacred steeds with the plumes of the royal 
paradise bird. 

The natives of Jobie call paradise bird, botarar; tortoise- 
shell, porlee ; pearl-shell, p-u-y ; tobacco, abackker ; cocoanut, 
barcamo ; bow, affy ; arrow, atlibower ; sandal -wood, icore ; 
sago, /orw; bracelet, tar; beads, roworee ; yellow, ramarer. 

The next morning we got under way and coasted the eastern 
shore of Geelvink Bay to the southward and westward. We 
encountered currents, drift-wood, and clay-coloured water, and 
discovered a river, which we supposed to be another mouth of 
the great Bocander. The water tasted quite fresh. The land 
along the coast was low and covered with trees, but in the in- 
terior it rose into lofty mountains. Seventeen canoes, rilled 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 311 

with natives, came alongside. They were well armed with 
bows and arrows, and had some fine shell, for which they 
wanted a high price. These were the only natives that we 
saw, and at dark we anchored near the land. When the na- 
tives left us they sang a song, and we replied with great glee. 
'he next day we were still coasting to the southward. In the 
fiemoon we anchored one mile from the land, in six fathoms 
water. A considerable number of natives came alongside, and 
we hoisted our ensign. They gazed at it in wonder. They 
had seen the Dutch ensign, and that of the Sultan of Tidore, 
the two greatest nations in the world, and could hardly com- 
prehend us when we told them that our ensign was the insig- 
nia of a great nation of freemen, America. " America !" they 
all shouted, as they admired the beauties of the stripes and 
stars. 

The next day a host of men, women, and children came off 
to look at the American ensign, and to see if the Americans 
were as handsome a people as the Dutch. Some of the women 
wore trousers of blue nankin, as big as a bag, and tied round 
the waist with a drawing-string. Some of the chiefs wore 
flashy calico morning-gowns and figured cotton handkerchief 
turbans. We presented the " ladies" beads, and complimented 
their beauty : handsome women love to be admired ; they 
thought the Americans were the most handsome set of men 
that they had seen, not even excepting the Dutch. The chiefs 
now ratified a perpetual treaty of peace and commerce with 
the minister plenipotentiary from America to the court of 
Papua, and a brisk trade was immediately entered into for va- 
rious kinds of valuables. A chief offered to sell us a hand- 
some little Malay girl, not more than thirteen years old, for a 
single musket with ammunition. In most of the canoes was 
a small tub, containing a coil of line, to the end of which was 
secured an iron fishing-spear, with a wooden handle. This in- 
strument is used in spearing fish as we harpoon a whale. In 
the afternoon we were underway, and arrived opposite a point 
formed by two small islands covered with cocoanut-trees. A 
reef put off from the northeast end of the outermost and lar- 
gest of the two. Canoes, filled with natives, all well armed, 
reconnoitred within hailing distance, but feared to venture 
alongside. They were a complete set of cowards. We hoist* 



312 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

ed the American ensign, they retreated to the shore. In the 
evening we arrived at the foot of Geelvink Bay. The land 
was elevated, and covered with primitive forests. We thought 
we saw a volcano flashing in the distance to the eastward. 
During the night we cruised to the westward, along the land, 
and grazed several shoals, but met with no accident. 

Next day we were cruising to the northward, along the 
western shore of the bay. The land is formed of abrupt 
mountains, covered with forests. We saw no signs of in- 
habitants, and encountered strong puffs of wind from the west- 
ward. 

W T e sailed near an elevated island, and saw a track of high 
land to the southward, that appeared to be divided from the 
main. Several fine bays opened to view, and in the afternoon 
we entered one of them, coasting its east shore, which was so 
steep and the water so deep that we could have run our jib- 
boom among the trees. Opposite a vale, between two hills, 
we hove to in sight of a grove of cocoa-trees and several wig- 
wams. Not a native could be seen. A strong blast of wind 
overtook us, and we staggered out of the bay, and careered 
along the land, under a cloud of canvass. 

The scenery among these lofty wooded hills and mountains 
was truly romantic and charming ; and the effect was height- 
ened by the twittering and fluttering of beautiful feathered 
tribes, when the sun sank below the hills and gilded the over- 
hanging clouds with the tints of burnished gold. Had not the 
duties of the vessel broken in upon our revery, we might have 
imagined ourselves in another world. 

We found Geelvink Bay very incorrectly laid down on the 
chart. It is not so deep, and does not extend so far to the 
eastward. The next day we discovered a large sheet of wa- 
ter extending into the land, and presenting the appearance of 
a river with lofty banks and towering hills. We sailed bold- 
ly in, with a man in the chains, but got no bottom. Encoun- 
tering violent squalls, we scudded away under close-reefed top- 
sails. " Man-of-war Bill" was most unfortunately thrown 
from the lee main topsail yard-arm by the flapping of the sail. 
He turned a complete somerset, and fell into the water. 
We threw a coil of the trysail-sheet over him as he rose to 
the surface ; he seized hold of it, and was saved. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



313 



In the afternoon swelling hills, covered with grass, opened 
to view, and near the sandy beach was a neat village of thatch- 
ed houses with windows. No inhabitants could be seen, and 
we imagined that they purposely secreted themselves, through 
fear of the Dutch or Malays. The next day we approached 
Dory Harbour, and were becalmed in the afternoon. The 
coast is formed of low promontories or capes, from which the 
land rises to high mountains covered with forests. The next 
morning we anchored in Dory Harbour, near the village. 

The following eye-sketch represents this harbour ; our route 
is marked. 




Dory Island is of secondary formation, and covered with 
trees. A grove of cocoa- trees extends along the beach, and in 
front is situated the village, which is a small affair. The 
houses are built over the water on piles. From the rear door 
a plank leads to the shore. In front, facing the water, is a 
kind of piazza, shaded by the projecting roof, which forms a 
refreshing lounge for the natives, who dose away their time 
here, and spear the fish that sport in the water beneath. The 
water is so pellucid that we could see our anchor upon the 
bottom, ten fathoms deep. We could plainly see the fish swim- 
ming about, and we lay so close to the houses that, when we 
swung round, we sat upon the stern and talked to the "ladies," 
who were sitting a la Turque upon the piazzas, smoking cigars. 
The land around the harbour is mountainous, and on the north 
side, near three huts, is a watering-place. 

When we entered the harbour we were somewhat surprised 
to see a fore-topsail schooner riding at anchor. She was the 

Dd J 



314 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Sirius, Captain Le Jambre. Her burden was 103 tons. She 
was built at Batavia, of teak-wood, and was owned partly by 
the captain, and by Daton and Davenbody, of Batavia. She 
trades regularly around Geelvink Bay, corning with the S.W., 
and returning with the N.E. monsoon. We became quite inti- 
mat with Captain Le Jambre, and frequently dined on board 
his vessel, while he as often supped with us. The climate here 
is so remarkably healthy that he said he grew fat in this trade. 
His appearance bespoke the truth of his assertions. He was 
one of your fat, jolly little rosy-cheeked Frenchmen, and spoke 
fluently the French, Dutch, Malay, and English languages. 
He dressed in white pants, blue silk roundabout, Manilla hat, 
and black pumps. He was one of that class of men who live 
" slow and sure," take the world easy, and grow fat and rich. 
I frequently visited him, on board his vessel, to play chess. 
In his cabin everything was tastefully arranged, and I might 
even say that the furniture was costly. He was the only 
white man on board. His crew consisted of ten Malay men 
and ten women, who were sitting upon the forecastle smo- 
king cosily together. In fact, all hands seemed to take the 
world easily, and well they might, for they were at home ; 
their wives were with them, and the captain could afford it. 
He paid them but little, and fed them on rice and fruit, which 
they obtained of the natives. His mate was a Javanese, and so 
was his mistress, a plump and sweet girl of fifteen, with black 
eyes and raven tresses. She was expert at playing chess, too, 
and could beat us with much ease, though we were practised 
hands. Captain J. was very much of a gentleman, and a com- 
plete ladies' man. Nothing pleased him more than to seat him- 
self in a big arm-chair on the quarter-deck, under the awning, 
with a cigar in his mouth, and a sociable friend beside him. I 
shall always cherish in my mind the recollection of the socia- 
ble evenings that I passed on board his vessel in this benight- 
ed part of the world. Our sailors frequently sported with the 
natives, in swimming backward and forward between the ves- 
sel and houses. One day, in company with the mate and sev- 
eral of the crew of the Sirius, who were to act as interpreters, 
we started on a journey into the interior of Papua, in quest of 
sandal- wood and other valuables. Our course led over a mount- 
ain range covered with a dense forest. We followed along the 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 315 

sinuous banks of a rippling stream, which we forded in many- 
places, in order to take a direct course, in preference to pass- 
ing over abrupt hills and bluffs. We collected several singu- 
lar and valuable stones. A sweet perfume floated in the air, 
and we shot several black paradise birds, also one of the king 
species. The report of our rifles caused a most singular-look- 
ing animal, resembling the kangaroo, to spring from his covert 
and plunge into the river. Several of our balls struck the wa- 
ter near him, but his speed was so great that he escaped. 

Our attention was suddenly attracted by the barking of two 
dogs, who stood upon the brow of a hill which we were as- 
cending. They fled as we approached, and we now saw the 
prints of human feet in the sand of a ravine ; we soon came to 
a hut, made of the trunk of a very large tree, which had been 
hollowed by burning. It was hung around with mats and im- 
plements, and near by were culinary utensils and a smoulder- 
ing fire. The inmates had evidently fled precipitately. We 
hung trinkets upon the hut, and tramped onward over the 
mountain through a scattering forest of stately trees. We fol- 
lowed a beaten trail, and every step that we advanced unfold- 
ed to us more and more of the beauties and grandeur of this 
rich country. We descended into a prairie valley, and came 
upon a small village of thatched huts, shaded by banana-trees. 
At our approach the natives prepared to fly across the valley ; 
all was bustle and confusion. Most luckily, we seized one 
woman, who was working in a garden. She had been to Dory, 
and was acquainted with our Malay interpreters, who informed 
her of the purport of our visit, and that we had not come to 
steal her people or make slaves of them, like the Sultan of 
Tidore and the Dutch. She ran and told her people the good 
news, and when we entered the village they received us kind- 
ly. The sailors were overjoyed at finding none but women 
and children at home, and gladly accepted an invitation to re- 
main over night, for we were wellnigh worn out. All the 
men belonging to the tribe had gone to hunt paradise birds on 
the mountains. At the break of day we were up. When the 
sun peeped into the valley the dew rose and kissed the mount- 
ain slopes, imparting freshness and vigour to the deep-green 
foliage. 

Bidding farewell to our hospitable friends, after having made 



316 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

them various presents, we journeyed onward, and discovered 
several new trees and flowering plants of great beauty. At 
night, after having traversed a circuitous route by compass, 
we camped upon a rocky rampart. The next day, with wea- 
ried limbs and blistered feet, we arrived safe on board the 
vessel. 

One day, while on shore at the village with Captain Morrell, 
we heard a great tumult on board our vessel. We jumped 
into a canoe, and two natives paddled us to the stern. We 
rushed through the port into the cabin. " A mutiny !" cried 
W . Captain M. seized his pistols, ran on deck, and, con- 
fronting the two ringleaders, aimed a pistol at the head of 
each, as he exclaimed, with decision, " Go below ! another 
word, and I'll blow your brains out !" Order was instantly re- 
stored. It appeared that the day previous, while the crew were 
on shore, they had had a dispute with two stout black men, 
who belonged to our vessel, about a native girl ; and now that 
all the sailors were quite intoxicated with arrack, which they 
had procured from the crew of the Sirius, the old quarrel was 
resumed, and the sailors threatened to throw the black men 
overboard. The latter had armed in self-defence, and fortified 
themselves behind water-casks, and cutlasses and pistols be- 
came the order of the day. The captain instituted a search 
in the forecastle ; all the bottles of arrack were passed up, and 
he broke them one by one upon the cathead, and threw their 
contents overboard. 

The natives of Dory brought us green Indian corn of the 
finest quality, and informed us that they raise two crops every 
year. They also presented us several basketfuls of small 
apples, that were long, like what are called "ladies' apples." 
The language of these natives is a mixture of their native 
tongue and Malay. For the information of the reader, I give 
the names of the following articles from the vocabulary of 
Dory Harbour, Papua : 



Axe, Ameo. 
Apple, Mong-an. 
Arrow, Marriah. 
Banana, Maif. 
Bow, Ecore. 
Bad, Ebe-a-bah. 
Brass buttons, Con-sar. 



Beads, Edyar-monemonee. 

Canoe, Wan. 

Calico, Cm-ben. 

Corn (Indian), Cas-tare-ah. 

Chisel, Arpar. 

Child, Dom-gun. 

Drink, Co-nem. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 



317 



Eat, Cy-en. 
Ear, Con-arm-see. 




Rope, Ab-brah. 
Salt water, Mas-sen. 


Ear-ring, Ware-u-fo. 
Fresh water, Wire. 




Silver ring, Sar-rack. 
Spear, Yaf-fen. 


Fish, E-en. 
Good, Ebe-a. 




Sleep, Care-niff. 
Smoke, Je-pay. 


Gun, Sin-ar-pon. 
Hat, To-ru. 




Swim, Cor-o-en. 
Sun, Ore-e. 


Knife, Enor. 

Long knife or cutlass, Che-parder. 

Lowland, Saup. 

Lemon, Ong-nor. 

Looking-glass, Con-seen-ar. 

Man, Sin-non. 


Tortoise-shell, Portee. 

Woman, Be-en. 

Wind blows, Wi-em-wow-u-fe 

MANNER OF COUNTING. 

1 Si. 


Moon, Pi-e-kee. 




2 Du. 


Mat, E-i-ah. 




3 Tol. 


Mountain, Bon. 




4 Fark. 


Paddle, Bo-res. 




5 Re-am. 


Paradise bird, Bu-ra-mah-tee. 


6 U-num. 


Pitcher, Bamber-kar-see. 


10 Son-fare. 


Razor, Eno-wa-u-par. 







Having completed our business at Dory, we got under way 
and put to sea, following the trend of the land to the westward. 
In the afternoon we arrived opposite a harbour and a small 
island. The land is moderately elevated. Three canoes, fill- 
ed with natives, came off to trade, with mats and paradise 
birds. The next day the surface of the country which we 
skirted was formed of gently-rising hills and undulating 
mounds. In one spot there appeared to be a beautiful valley, 
with a river of some size coursing through it. We saw a vil- 
lage, and natives running alongshore. We sailed through a 
body of green water, but got no bottom with fifteen fathoms line. 

The next morning the coast appeared to be formed of curi- 
ous and broken hills, between which and a lofty range of 
mountains in the interior, capped with clouds, there seemed 
to be an extensive valley. About one mile from the coast, we 
sailed over a coral shoal, trending W. by N. and E. by S. We 
plainly saw the bottom, and had soundings in three fathoms. 
I should have mentioned that one of the hills which we saw 
was well cultivated in gardens divided by fences, and present- 
ed a cheering sight : here and there over them were scattered 
thatched houses. In the afternoon we saw a spot of green 



318 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



water extending alongshore, and reaching half a mile to sea- 
ward ; whether it was coloured water or a shoal, we did not 
stop to examine. 

In the afternoon we arrived opposite that part of the coast 
which has very absurdly been called the " Cape of Good 
Hope," latitude 00° 16' S., longitude 132° 55' E. The land 
was composed of lofty mountains, with table-lands, interve- 
ning valleys, mounds, and sequestered dells. In the interior, 
there tumbled headlong from the brow of a mountain a vast 
cataract, with a perpendicular fall of five hundred feet, present- 
ing the appearance, in the sunshine, of a mighty sheet of bur- 
nished silver, bespangled with precious stones, that contrasted 
enchantingly with the green tropical foliage, among which it 
became lost to view in a deep ravine. The whole country 
was covered with luxurious verdure, and presented to our view 
a scene at once rural and sublime. That the reader may have 
some conception of the appearance of the outline or land 
view of this part of the coast of Papua, I present the following 
drawing. 




The next day we saw Amsterdam Islets, which are of sec- 
ondary formation, and situated about two miles from the coast. 
The passage between them and the main seemed to be ob- 
structed by a shoal. Waigoo was in sight. The next morning 
we passed a large bay, and, from the formation of the land, 
we supposed that a river of some size emptied into it. West 
of this bay there is a high strip of land, that seemed to be di- 
vided from the main by a narrow channel, which we essayed 
to enter, but found ourselves confronted by a shoal and low 
sandy peninsula. 

The scenery upon the coast was varied. In some places 
the land sloped down gradually, and in others it rose abruptly 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 319 

from the sea to lofty hills. In the evening we anchored at the 
northern entrance of Revenge Strait, between Salwatty and 
Foul Point, Papua. Off the latter point there extends a group 
of islets, with a coral reef upon their north side, and a remark- 
able abrupt rock, covered with guano and aquatic birds. I 
name it Bird Rock. We anchored in twelve fathoms water, 
Salwatty town bearing S.W. by S. and Bird Rock E. by S., 
three quarters of a mile distant. Fires burned upon the main, 
and our sentinels were cautioned to be vigilant. Revenge 
Strait is literally filled up with low islets. 

Next day a proa, under full sail, came from Salwatty to- 
wards us, and was soon alongside. She displayed the Dutch 
ensign, and two Malays leaped on our deck. They were 
merchants from Macassar, and had come here to trade. One 
spoke English, and gave us an account of his life. He was 
born at Geby, had visited Ceram, Gillolo, Celebes, Java, Bor- 
neo, and Singapore. He was an old and experienced voyager 
in these seas. He owned and commanded the proa now along- 
side, and was known far and wide as the learned navigator, 
Captain Haguei. He hailed for a " Malay Dutchman." He 
had studied navigation from nature alone, and steered his 
vessel on her course as did the fishermen of Nain in the days 
of Christ. He possessed the happy talent, of concentrating the 
powers of all nautical instruments into one, namely, the organ 
of sight. So long as he could see the land he could tell where 
he was, but when he lost sight of that he was lost himself. 
Nevertheless, he considered himself quite on a par with our 
captain in nautical science. Captain Morrell fell into his hu- 
mour, and every time he addressed this illustrious old sea-dog, 
the first exclamation was, " Captain Haguei." We now learn- 
ed that the town upon Salwatty was peopled by Malays from 
Tidore, and that a sultan or governor, who was tributary to 
the Sultan of Tidore, resided here. A fleet of proas annually 
departed from Tidore to engage in the lucrative trade with the 
aborigines of Western Papua and Northern Australia, and the 
town of Salwatty may be said to be one of their headquarters, 
or receiving depots, for the treasures obtained from this rich 
region. There is also a Malay settlement upon Waigoo, which 
is tributary to the Sultan of Tidore. The Macassar merchants 
had been sent by the Sultan of Salwatty to inquire our business 



320 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

in these waters, and when they departed, the last words our 
captain said was, " Farewell, Captain Haguei." 

The next morning', pleasant, though not very skilful music, 
floated over the calm surface of Revenge Strait. Three war- 
proas, decked with the Dutch and Tidore ensigns, and with va- 
rious flags and streamers, put off from Salwatty town and ap- 
proached us, propelled by many sweeps, in measured stroke to 
the time of the music. In the distance they looked not unlike 
so many steamboats, dressed for a gala-day. On they came, 
circling around us, with their sweeps moving, streamers flut- 
tering, and music playing. They came alongside, and his 
most august highness, the Sultan of Salwatty, came on board, 
followed by his suite, the high-priest and eunuch, betle and 
hookah bearers. The heads of all the Malays were shaved 
close, which we supposed marked them as followers of the 
" true faith." The sultan was a shade lighter coloured than his 
followers ; he appeared to be forty years old ; his height was 
five feet seven inches, features rather good-looking, nose aqui- 
line, and a very sinister and savage expression of counte- 
nance. He was dressed in loose yellow calico pants, white 
cotton shirt, red figured silk morning-gown, and red merino 
turban. We treated him to wine, and he appeared very fond 
of it. He said that he had a fleet of proas, manned by six 
hundred men, who were now scattered along the coast of 
Western Papua, and he soon expected them to return, loaded 
with slaves, gold-dust, paradise birds, pearl-shell and pearls, 
beche-de-mer, edible bird's-nests, sandal-wood, tortoise-shell, 
and various other valuables, of which they had been in search, 
and that if we would remain one moon, he would be able to 
purchase all our cargo. He also stated that he had slaves upon 
Battanta Island, who were busy cutting sandal-wood. The 
sultan's proa was fifty feet long, stem and stern sharp, model 
of the hull good, the planking lashed to the timbers with ratan. 
A bamboo platform, extending five feet over the hull on each 
side, formed the deck. The mast, composed of three large 
bamboos, rigged on the principle of sheers. She was steered 
by two rudders, one on each quarter, lashed fast with ratan. 
She was rowed by twenty naked negro slaves, the aborigines 
of Papua. They were subjected to the orders of several Ma- 
lay soldiers, who were dressed in blue nankin pants, reach.' 






IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 321 

ing to their knees ; also roundabouts and turbans of the same 
material, trimmed with white cotton. The head-soldier, who 
officiated as boatswain, carried a lasso and ratan. If a slave 
disobeyed, he threw the lasso over his neck, hauled him up to 
the " bull-ring, 1 ' and laid on the ratan. 

On deck there was a thatched hurricane-house, divided into 
different apartments, which were carpeted with mats. In 
one was the grand band, composed of one large Chinese gong, 
one dozen tymbals, hung on strings in a large box, and five 
turn- turns, or kettle-drums. In the sultan's state-room were 
two large chests, which we endeavoured to look into, for a 
soldier told us that they contained gold-dust and paradise birds. 
The armament of this war-proa consisted of six small brass 
swivels that were stowed away in the hole for ballast. It was 
doubtful whether the soldiers knew how to load them. The 
sultan was much afraid of powder, and dared not fire one of our 
muskets ; his secretary was somewhat more courageous, and 
pulled the trigger, but he turned his head away, and seemed 
greatly startled at the discharge. 

The sultan peremptorily forbade us from trading with the 
aborigines of this part of Papua, as the trade was a monopoly 
of the Sultan of Tidore. Next day we landed at the town of 
Salwatty in the squadron, and visited the palace, upon the bal- 
cony of which we were seated on mats, and received by the 
sultan, who treated us to a glass of Holland gin, and a smoke 
on the hubble-bubble. 

Next we visited the factory of the Macassar merchants. 
They opened two cases and several boxes, containing in all 
1000 catties of tortoise-shell and 2000 paradise birds. We 
sold them several muskets and other articles. They seemed 
to take the world easy, and had two buxom Celebes girls with 
them, besides slaves to do the housework. The next day we 
visited the town again. It contains about fifty thatched houses 
built on piles, and the tide ebbs and flows beneath, upon the 
beach. The palace is a large, well-built house, with blinds 
and balcony. The sultan's whole armament consisted of the 
swivels before mentioned, three brass four-pounders, seven- 
teen muskets, and two pairs of pistols, all of Chinese manufac- 
ture. In addition, I should mention two iron six-pounders, 
buried in the sand, and eaten up with rust, 



322 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

Our friends, the merchants, showed us a good assortment 
of Chinese goods, and in their house we saw a beautiful jet- 
black monkey. The sultan had a harem, but he kept the 
women very close, and was jealous lest we should entice some 
of them away in our vessel. Once, indeed, we caught a glimpse 
of a pair of black eyes peering through the blinds. After 
nightfall we were somewhat surprised at hearing the splash- 
ing of paddles, and soon three canoes came alongside, filled 
with the aborigines of Papua. They brought us shells and 
fruit, and informed us that they were afraid to come in the day- 
time, as the Malays had threatened to behead them for so do- 
ing. We treated them kindly, and made them presents. 

The next morning the sultan's secretary came on board the 
vessel, and selected ten muskets, which he wanted to take 
on shore to show the sultan, who had ordered him to come 
and get them. We refused to trust them out of our sight, and 
said we would bring them on shore ourselves. The secretary 
departed. Soon after we landed in the squadron, and stacked 
the muskets in front of the palace, awaiting the pleasure of 
his highness. Presently the high-priest came upon the bal- 
cony, and, seeing the muskets, he retreated, somewhat alarm- 
ed. It was not long before he returned with the sultan, who 
seemed half stupid from an over-indulgence in opium and 
gin. The muskets underwent a severe scrutiny, and the priest 
sounded one with the ramrod to ascertain if it was loaded. 
Our captain ascended the balcony of the palace in company 
with the sultan, and both seated themselves on mats, amid the 
sultan's suite and slaves, who lay indolently about. His high- 
ness now refused to buy the muskets, as he said they were 
not the ones that had been selected by his secretary. He, 
however, offered the captain one paradise bird for ten horns of 
powder, and said he had bought as good in Ternate for half 
the money. Captain M., rather indignantly, contradicted him. 
The sultan, who understood a few vulgar English words, in- 
stantly retorted, " By God, I no lie !'' and, rising up, drew his 
kreese. " By God, you do lie !" said Captain Morrell, ener- 
getically, as he sprang to his feet and grasped the kreese, 
which he jerked from the sultan's hand, and cut and slashed 
to the right and left, wounding several of the sultan's suite and 
slaves, who now set upon him, in resentment of the indignity 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 32'S 

offered to his highness in the palace. Springing from the bal- 
cony, Captain Morrell cried, " Aim !" We levelled our rifles 
at his highness and suite, who, at the sight of the cold iron, 
stood paralyzed and pallid with fear. 

" Another word, and instant death awaits you !" cried Cap-^ 
tain M., flourishing the sultan's kreese. 

" Stop ! stop ! peace !" cried Captain Haguei, running to- 
wards us, and explaining that the sultan was intoxicated with 
opium. " Then," said Captain Morrell, flourishing the kreese, 
" I keep this as a trophy, and he must be careful how he in- 
sults a Christian and an American again." With this he 
marched towards the beach, and we followed close upon his 
heels, with the muskets. We embarked in the squadron, and 
were soon on board the vessel. 

These Malays are a cunning race of cruel assassins, but are 
as big a set of cowards as ever lived. Their power along the 
western coast of Papua and the adjacent islands has been 
brought about, after the lapse of many years of stratagem and 
deceit. Even with their knowledge of gunpowder, they were 
afraid to enter into a contest of arms with the untutored ne- 
groes, but, with characteristic cunning, resorted to arrack and 
opium, and other intoxicating drugs, with which they seduced 
the native tribes, and then robbed and plundered them at their 
leisure. Many of the aboriginal tribes have been thus com- 
pelled to abandon the coast, and seek refuge in the interior 
from the persecutions of the Malays. 

The natives of Dory Harbour informed us that the Malays 
had exacted tribute from them, and, when they refused to pay 
it, the Malays came in proas and made a great noise, firing off 
blank swivels, but not daring to land. Most of the natives 
were so alarmed at the thunder that they fled to the mount- 
ains. The Malay influence has only commenced creeping 
around Geelvink Bay. Beyond the delta of the Bocander they 
have not dared to go. Had they ventured farther, their proas 
would probably have been captured, and the crews massacred 
by the savages. 

The Malays are jealous of all white men who come here to 
trade, because they fear that they will break their power over 
the natives, and thus destroy their trade. The Sultan of Sal- 
watty would offer us no encouragement in the way of trade, 



324 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

lest we should be induced to come back again. He endeav- 
oured to coax us to stay one moon, by fair promises, as we 
thought, for the purpose of concentrating all his forces, cap- 
ture us by stratagem, massacre all hands, and plunder the ves- 
sel. We believed, from what we afterward saw, that the Ma- 
lays endeavoured to instil into the minds of the aborigines 
that the white people were all bad, and only came to make 
slaves of them, and that the less they had to do with them the 
better. As for white men getting any information about this 
country from the Malays, it is entirely out of the question ; it 
is for their interest to keep what they know to themselves. 
They want it to remain as it is, unknown to all civilized na- 
tions, that they may enjoy a monopoly of its advantages. 

A great farce was enacted at Salwatty Island by Lieutenant 
M'Cleur. He discovered Revenge Strait, and is the only white 
man who has sailed through it. He asked permission of the 
Malays to land at Salwatty town. They objected, as they 
were afraid that the sailors would make trouble among the 
women. He was in distress for want of water, and inquired 
of the Malays to direct him where he could find it. They 
pretended that they did not know, and that it was a scarce and 
precious article here. He landed upon the southeast end of 
Salwatty, and set his crew to work digging wells. They came 
to water, but it proved to be brackish, and all their labour was 
in vain. This proved a source of great mortification. Next 
he discovered the inlet that bears his name ; his surgeon was 
massacred here by the natives, and, if the truth was known, it 
was done at the instigation of the Malays, who wanted to give 
white men a terrible idea of the cruelty of the inhabitants, that 
they might thereby be prevented from returning to oust them 
in their trade and villany. Notwithstanding the terrible rep- 
resentations of ancient navigators to the contrary, in no coun- 
try in the world is pure fresh water more abundant than in all 
this region. Along every part of the coast are to be found 
rivers, creeks, and springs, easy of access. 

The King of Holland has lately laid claim to the west coast 
of Papua, from the Cape of Good Hope to longitude 141° E. 
By what particular right he claims it, I am not informed. He 
has already laid claim to the principal Asiatic islands, without 
any particular settlement or force to maintain his position, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 325 

except by sending an armed vessel now and then to collect 
tribute and endeavour to monopolize the trade. It is time that 
civilized nations began to inquire into this thing. This vast 
and productive country must not be stolen away in this man- 
ner. The Malays are to the aborigines what the Dutch are to 
the Malays. We all have a right to this country in common, 
and a vast field lies open here for the settlement and trade of 
a civilized people. The country is capable of maintaining 
independently thousands where now only hundreds reside. 
The Dutch, in all their settlements in the Asiatic islands, have 
exhibited a spirit of grasping and monopolizing avarice, en- 
tirely at variance with the present enlightened state of opinion 
throughout the civilized world. The spirit they evince is 
more like that of the days of the Inquisition, or the year 1617, 
when the Dutch East India Company enjoyed a monopoly for 
navigating the ocean. Jacob Le Maire, after having discov- 
ered a new passage to the South Seas, as well as made many 
other important discoveries, put into Batavia on his way home. 
His vessel was seized and confiscated for having presumed to 
enter these seas, and this worthy man died a victim to the un- 
worthy treatment he had received. 

Jacob Roggewein put into Batavia by invitation of the gov- 
ernor-general ; his ships were seized and confiscated, as those 
of Le Maire had been. In the sequel, the Dutch West India 
Company appealed against this decision with full success, the 
East India Company being obliged to refund the value of the 
vessels seized, and to pay the seamen their wages till the day 
of their arrival in Holland. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

On the morning following the fray with the sultan, we got 
under way and sailed through Pitt Strait, between the islands 
of Salwatty and Battanta. The strait is about four miles wide, 
and the water looked very deep in all parts. A strong current 
set to the east, and at the west end we encountered a strong 
tide-rip and heavy rollers. At the southeast end of Battanta 
we saw two openings in the land that looked like good har- 



326 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

bours ; but the south coast presented one straight line, with 
the land rising abruptly from the sea into mountains covered 
with forests. On the coast of Salwatty we saw the mouths 
of several fine bays, and anchored at the foot of a small one 
on its northwest end, in thirteen fathoms water, within a 
stone's throw of the beach. I name it Harper Bay, after James 
Harper, Esq., of New- York. Its mouth faces the west, and a 
small round island, situated off the southwest end of Battanta, 
is in sight, bearing from our anchoring ground W. by N. We 
explored the shores of the bay, and could see no signs of any 
inhabitants ; the whole country lay in a complete state of na- 
ture. We found a creek of pure water emptying into the bay 
over the sand-beach, which obstructed its mouth. We rolled 
our casks over the beach into the deep water, and filled them 
without any trouble. We walked up the banks of the creek 
some distance, and found that it meandered sluggishly through 
a narrow strip of muddy bottom-land. W T e saw the prints of 
hogs' feet in the mud, and in many places decayed trees lay 
across the creek, upon one of which we attempted to cross. 
It broke beneath our weight, and precipitated one of the sail- 
ors into the mud. We came to a spot where the ground was 
literally covered with black worms, eight inches long and an 
inch in diameter, with a double row of legs like the centipede. 
They appeared to be harmless, and rolled themselves up when 
we approached. 

Next day we ascended a steep hill to the south of the bot- 
tom-land. The summit was composed of craggy rocks, cov- 
ered with a fine moss, which was literally filled with small 
leeches, that attached themselves to our feet and ankles with 
avidity, and sucked our blood. With such tenacity did they 
cling to us, that we had much difficulty in dislodging them. 
In the interior we found the country undulating, and covered 
with a scattering forest of tall and stately trees, large and 
straight enough for masts for a ship of the line. The cow- 
tree, or bohon-upas, abounded, and from the incisions made 
into them with our hatchets there exuded a milky liquid. The 
wood of one species of tree had a spicy and fragrant smell. 
W T e saw a broken ostrich egg upon the ground, and shot a sin- 
gular bird of the owl species, with a very large beak. We saw 
no signs of inhabitants. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 327 

Next day we embarked in the squadron, sailed across Pitt 
Strait, landed upon Battanta, and ascended a mountain in quest 
of sandal-wood. After a fatiguing day's march, we returned 
to the squadron, took a delightful bath in the pure waters of 
the strait, and returned onboard the vessel soon after sundown. 
During our absence, a canoe, paddled by natives, entered the 
bay, and came alongside the vessel with some tortoise-shell 
and a basket full of large sour oranges. These were the only 
human beings that we had seen during our stay in Harper Bay, 
and upon Battanta we had seen no signs of inhabitants. 

At the break of day on the following morning we were under 
way, coasting the west side of Salwatty to the southward. 
From the southwest end of the island, there extends to sea- 
ward a large shoal, reaching quite out to a group of secondary 
islets. The water had a deep-green colour, and we had regu- 
lar soundings in six and seven fathoms water, with a muddy 
bottom. We anchored upon it, near the south end of Revenge 
Strait. The islets appeared to be uninhabited, but upon the 
beach of Salwatty there were several wigwams. Two canoes 
hove in sight, filled with natives. They were paddling across 
the strait. We gave them chase in the squadron, and they 
fled with all speed. The wind blowing fresh, we soon over- 
hauled them, and they seemed disposed to give us a hostile re- 
ception, for they believed what their masters, the Malays, had 
told them, that we were devils incarnate, and had come to 
kidnap and carry them to our country, where we intended to 
enslave and torture them. We levelled our muskets at them, 
they laid down their clubs and spears, and surrendered at dis- 
cretion, rending the air with lamentations. We told them that 
their masters were a set of liars and pirates ; and, presenting 
them various trinkets, we set them free, and told them to tell 
their masters what we had said. They looked at us and then 
at each other for a few moments, perfectly dumfounded, and 
then, recovering their scattered senses, presented us some co- 
coanuts, and paddled, singing, to the shore. 

Next day we were under way, steering W. by N., with a 
cracking breeze from the southeast. From the mast-head we 
saw low land off the larboard bow. At meridian Popa bore 
south fifteen miles distant. Several small islands were in sight 
to the northward. Soon we altered our course to N. by W. 



328 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



Next day we anchored in Geby Harbour, which is situated 
on the southwest side of the island of the same name, and is 
formed by Fowk Island. The following eye sketch represents 
this harbour. Our route in and out is marked. At ebb tide 




the current sets through the harbour towards the east, and at 
flood in an opposite direction. Fowk Island is moderately el- 
evated, composed of clay and rocks, and is uninhabited. Its 
summit is barren and denuded, but its shores are lined with 
trees, principally mangrove, and growing in the salt water. It 
is straight wood, and we procured a supply from the place 
marked upon the drawing. Whaling vessels had been here to 
cut wood, and upon one of the trees was carved "J. S., 1835." 
Upon the trunks of some of the trees adhered a singular in- 
sect, of the same colour as the bark, with long legs and a body 
six inches in length. We supposed it to belong to the species 
Nepa Grandis. The northwest end of Fowk Island terminates 
abruptly in a clay bluff. The shores of Geby are mountainous. 
The land is stony, clayey, and barren. No signs of inhab- 
itants could be seen ; but in the interior the valleys are fruit- 
ful, and are peopled by honest Malays, who live by agriculture 
in domestic peace and happiness, free from the wants and 
cares of the outer world. W T e fired three blank shot from the 
long-nine, and set fire to some brush on Fowk Island, for the 
purpose of informing the inhabitants of our presence. Next 
day two canoes came from the cove on the northeast side of 
the harbour, and were soon alongside. They were loaded 
with bananas, pineapples, cocoanuts, lemons, pumpkins, chil- 
lies, and nautilus and cyprea shells. They were each pad- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 329 

died by two peaceable and friendly men, dressed in short cal- 
ico gowns. Their countenances and colour were those of the 
Malay race, but their hair was woolly. A mixed blood cours- 
ed through their veins ; their fathers were Malays and their 
mothers natives. They had heard the report of our cannon 
the day before, and said that, if we would stay two days more, 
plenty of their people would come to trade, bringing fruit and 
vegetables. They took in barter for their fruit, needles, small 
cups, snuff-boxes, &c. 

Next day we put to sea, steering northwest until we cleared 
the west end of Geby, when we hauled our wind to the north- 
ward, with Point Patana Gillolo in sight. The next day we 
passed a group of small islands off the larboard beam, and soon 
after Salaway Point hove in sight. The land is mountainous. 
On the coast is a cove, with a ledge of rocks extending across 
its mouth, on which the sea breaks heavily. In the evening 
we were becalmed amid a school of sperm whales, at the 
mouth of the Gulf of Chiaw. A large white shark, accompa- 
nied by his pilot-fish, swam alongside. The next morning we 
entered the Straits of Moratay, encountering a strong current 
setting to the southward. Moratay Island is elevated, but its 
southwest end is low, and divided into small islands. The wa- 
ter appeared to be deep, and we saw no danger. In the after- 
noon we were becalmed off the west side of Rieun, at the 
north end of the strait, which is here about ten miles broad. 
The north point of Gillolo was inview to the southward, and is 
formed of elevated rocky table-land, off which lie four denuded 
islets, composed of rock and clay. 

The deck of our vessel presented quite a curious spectacle. 
It resembled, indeed, not a little, a menagerie, for we had birds 
and animals of various kinds ; some in pens, others in bamboo 
cages, made by the sailors, and some on roosts, tied by the 
legs. The care of these, with the task of teaching them to 
talk and perform comical feats, constituted one of the princi- 
pal amusements of the sailors, and occupied all their leisure 
moments. The bradypus slept by day in an old hat, and walk- 
ed like the gnome fly over the rigging at night. The Malay 
chanticleers engaged in pitched battles upon the forecastle, and 
bets ran high among the sailors. The monkeys rode the pigs, 
and made wry faces when they greedily seized upon a hot 

E e3 



330 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



potato. The pigs ate the potatoes left by the monkeys to 
cool, and got their ears boxed for so doing, and ran away 
squeeling, with the monkeys holding to their tails, to the no 
small amusement of all hands. In another part of the ship, 
meantime, we heard the parrots crying, " Let go and haul !" 
"Hand over hand!" "Yes, be damn!" The cockatoo cried, 
" Pretty cockatooa!" and the paradise birds, ' ; Kaw-ke-kaw!" 
A cunning little monkey came out of the window of the cap- 
tain's state-room, and seated himself on top of the trunk, with 
the end of a ball of twine in his hands, which he hauled in, hand 
over hand, and coiled beside him, in imitation of a sailor who 
was coiling the main topsail halliards. And a cry came from 
the steerage, "Chain that baboon; he's been hauling the 
clothes out of the chests !" 

Scenes like these served to keep us merry ; and we " laugh- 
ed and grew fat." 

On the following morning a fine breeze sprang up, and we 
steered W. by N. across the Molucca Passage. Next day we 
were close in with the northeast end of Siao, which rises up 
in the form of a cone 5500 feet high. Its summit is denuded, 
and formed of clay and lava ; but all the other part is covered 
with a luxuriant growth of trees, among which were many co- 
coanuts. So abrupt is the rise of this peak from the sea, and 
so near did we lie to the land, that we heard chanticleers crow- 
ing, but saw no inhabitants. We hove to and took several ob- 
servations, and rated our chronometer by the peak. The fol- 
lowing drawing represents the outline of Siao Island. 




The Karakita Islands were in full view, and I counted nine. 
Five large canoes put off from them and came towards us, 
under full sail, all hands at the same time paddling. Each ca- 
noe had double floats, two masts, two sails, and a black flag 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 331 

flying at each mast-head. As they drew near, we saw that 
they were filled with Malays, and, thinking that their visit was 
hostile, we cleared away for action. When they saw that we 
were an armed vessel, they kept straight ahead, taking sly 
glances at us, and singing the Malay boat song as they disap- 
peared behind the peak of Siao. Two large proas now hove in 
sight, coming towards us from the Karakitas ; but, the breeze 
increasing, Ave distanced and lost sight of them, as we steered 
W.N.W. and launched out upon the Sooloo Sea. 

Next day no land in sight. We sailed by a large float- 
ing tree, upon which were perched several aquatic birds. 
A fatigued booby lighted on the main boom, and schools 
of small fish followed in the wake of the vessel. On the 
morning of the third day after we sighted Maratua. Next 
day we were close in with Taballar Point, Borneo. Four days 
we coasted to the northward, encountering shoals, reefs, and 
small islands. We met with various success in trade, and, at 
the mouth of Darvel Bay, fired upon a fleet of Malay pirates, 
killing and wounding several. They pursued us in considera- 
ble numbers, but we had the best of the race, and by night 
they were out of sight. Next day we were becalmed off Un- 
sang. Borneo, next to Papua, is the largest, richest, and most 
magnificent island in the world. Still, we know little or no- 
thing about it. 

At night we took a breeze, and on the following day were 
wending our way among the southern islands of the Sooloo 
Archipelago. The charts are of not the slightest use here ; 
we directed our course from personal observation, as we had 
long been accustomed to do, and did not even know the names 
of the different islands. They were of different heights and 
varied forms, mostly of the primary formation, and were cov- 
ered with verdure. Well-cultivated plantations were scattered 
over the hills and valleys, and fragrant perfumes were wafted 
to seaward. They were, indeed, a lovely and healthy group 
of islands. And all this rich and beautiful country is in the 
hands of treacherous Malays, who have the name of being a 
desperate set of pirates, and think all men cowards who do 
not wear a kreese. The Soolooans sacked the British settle- 
ment of Balambangan, massacred many of the inhabitants, and 
turned the cannon on those who fled to the shipping. The 



332 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

cannon were finally conveyed thence to the parapet of the for- 
tress of Sooloo. The Spaniards from the Philippine Islands 
have attempted to bring the Soolooans under subjection, but 
they have always been defeated. The Dutch, too, have es- 
sayed to make an impression here, and met with no better suc- 
cess than the Spaniards. A Dutch schooner had lately been 
captured by the Soolooans, and most of her crew put to the 
kreese. Such was the character of the people who inhabit 
the islands among which we were at this time cruising. But 
there are palliating circumstances, and we are too ready to call 
these people pirates. The Spaniards and Dutch would have 
possessed themselves of the country and made slaves of the 
inhabitants, had they not resorted to stratagem and piracy in 
self-defence. 

Next day we anchored in a strait, situated between the west 
end of Seassee and a long, low island to the westward. The 
depth of water was fifteen fathoms, and the bottom a smooth 
rock. Our position was a dangerous one. A strong ebb and 
flood tide set through the strait, and, when we put the helm 
up or down, the anchor dragged. On the shore of Seassee 
was a village, and we saw canoes paddling alongshore ; but 
none ventured off. They seemed to look upon us with suspi- 
cion, and kept aloof. As there seemed no possibility of open- 
ing a trade with the inhabitants by remaining on board the 
vessel, we embarked in the squadron the next day and landed 
on the island to the westward, and marched towards two 
thatched houses, situated near the beach, beneath the shade of 
a grove of bread-fruit and banana trees. The inhabitants, men, 
women, and children, prepared to fly, but upon our making 
friendly signs, they were induced to receive us hospitably. 
They seemed to be simple-hearted agriculturists, and had 
handsome gardens in a neighbouring vale. They were almost 
in a state of nudity, except a nankin shirt or a pair of loose 
trousers of the same fabric, cut off at the knees. The children 
were quite naked, and were hearty, healthy, and merry. We 
were particularly struck with the beauty of a girl about four- 
teen years old ; pretty features, colour brunette, eyes black 
and full of expression, hair black as the raven, and flowing 
down her back like threads of glass, reaching quite to her 
waist. Some of the Malay girls that we afterward saw among 
the Sooloo Islands were truly beautiful. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 333 

Among the Soolooans there may be said to be two distinct 
classes. First, the agriculturists, who are the most peaceful 
and estimable citizens, and pay tribute to the sultan for the 
support of the navy, which is manned by the second class, who 
do all the fighting, and are engaged in all hazardous enterpri- 
ses, either in protecting the islands from invasion, or for the 
purpose of plundering foreign vessels and collecting booty 
This latter class is composed of a wild and desperate set of 
fellows, who are given to predatory enterprises. They gener- 
ally attack an enemy by stratagem. Confront them with an 
equal force, and they are as thorough cowards as ever lived. 

In the afternoon we saw a canoe paddling along the shore 
of Seassee. The Tempest, commanded by the intrepid Ben- 
ton, gave chase, and overhauled her near the beach. She con- 
tained three Malay men and one girl, who were friendly, and 
entered into a parley with us. A large, double-banked canoe 
now put off from the town, filled with stout Malays, who plied 
their paddles with all speed, and steered for the Tempest. 
Benton made friendly signs, and displayed various articles of 
trade. The small canoe fled for the shore as the large one 
drew near. The crew of the latter was composed of a savage- 
looking set of Malays, each armed with a large kreese in a 
wooden scabbard, stuck in his girdle. They looked at the 
trading cargo : one admired a handkerchief, and tied it round 
his waist; a second tied a shawl on his head, and the captain 
of the gang grasped a mirror. When our crew requested the 
return of the different articles, the Malays glanced into the 
Tempest, and, not seeing any arms, which were under can- 
vass covers, took our party to be a set of cowards, and, accord- 
ingly, refused to return our property, at the same time glan- 
cing significantly at each other with their piercing eyes, and 
laughing outright at our notion that we should recover our 
goods. Benton drew his pistol from the locker, much exas- 
perated, and, aiming it at the pirate chief, demanded the return 
of the mirror. At the sight of the pistol the Malays were 
struck with fear, and delivered up the property. But in an in- 
stant they seemed to recover their impudence, and, at the com- 
mand of their chief, who supposed that the pistol was the only 
fire-arms in our possession, drew their murderous kreeses, 
and, flourishing them in the air with a wild shout, were about 



334 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



to fall upon our party. " Level your rifles !" cried Benton. 
This movement completely checked the Malays. They 
sheathed their kreeses, made friendly signs, and paddled away 
for the village. They undoubtedly belonged to the sul-tan's 
navy, for we saw them get on board of the two proas that lay 
in front of the village. The following drawing represents the 
fray between our party and the pirates. 




When Benton returned to the vessel and reported the nar- 
row escape of himself and crew from massacre, Captain Mor- 
rell determined to take signal vengeance. We got under way 
and sailed for the village, with the American ensign floating 
at the main-peak. By this time the proas had set sail away, 
and we gave chase, firing two shots from the bow gun, that tore 
away part of the bamboo deck of the aftermost, and caused 
them to heave to. When within hailing distance, the captain 
ordered the pirate chief on board, and told him that he would 
make him prisoner and sink his proas if he did not apologize 
for the insult offered to the American flag. The chief was 
terribly alarmed, and made all the apology in his power, and 
remarked that he had never before seen or heard of the Amer- 
ican ensign. When we parted, he presented us the tortoise- 
shell and gold-dust that he had brought from Borneo, in pay- 
ment for the expense and trouble we had incurred. The proas 
returned to the village, and we kept on our course through the 
archipelago. In the evening we anchored near a verdant 
island. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 335 

Next day we succeeded in opening a communication with 
the inhabitants, and several canoes, displaying white flags, 
came alongside with peaceable and friendly Malays, who 
brought to sell poultry, eggs, shaddocs, Indian corn, cocoa- 
nuts, guavas, bananas, bread-fruit, mangosteen, goats, turtles, 
a monkey, and a green parrot. They also brought a singular 
kind of fruit, of a dark-red colour, that in outward appearance 
resembled a small ear of Indian corn with the husk on. Upon 
stripping off the latter, five light-coloured, pulpy pods, filled 
with black seeds, were brought to view. The pulp had a 
pleasant acidulated taste. All of the above they offered to ex- 
change for calico, cups and saucers, scissors, buttons, tobacco, 
and opium, empty bottles, &c. Beads they did not want. 
Some of the men were dressed in short, figured calico frocks 
or gowns, and the usual kind of short trousers. When we in- 
quired for pearls, gold-dust, &c, they gave us to understand 
that the Sultan of Sooloo monopolized all such valuable com- 
modities, and they were not allowed to deal in them with for- 
eigners. 

Next day we were under way, and in the afternoon arrived 
off the southwest end of Sooloo. A pure white sand-beach 
formed the shore. The land view was verdant, beautiful, and 
picturesque. A large town, surrounded by cocoanut-trees, is 
situated near the beach. The following drawing represents 
the southwest side of Sooloo Island. We followed along the 



west coast, in the centre of a passage formed by a rocky islet, 
situated three miles from the main. The soundings were reg- 
ular in ten fathoms, but towards the main they decreased first 
to seven, and then to five. The west point of the main is an 
abrupt mound, covered with verdure, except a narrow ridge 
near the summit, which presents the appearance of a white 
rock, 



336 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 



On the following morning we anchored in Sooloo, or, rath- 
er, Jaeloo Harbour, near the town, in eight fathoms water. 
It is situated at the northwest end of the Island Sooloo, and is 
formed by several low islets, that protect it from the sea. 
The following eye sketch represents the harbour. 




The city of Jaeloo is the grand commercial emporium of the 
Sooloo Archipelago. It is the residence of his royal highness 
the sultan. Proas of various sizes arrive daily, freighted with 
pearls and pearl-shell, tortoise-shell, gold-dust, edible bird's- 
•nests, beche-de-mer, and other valuable productions of the 
archipelago and of Borneo. These were formerly bartered 
for the productions of China, that were brought hither by the 
Chinese in junks. But of late the Chinamen feared to venture 
here, as one of their junks had been plundered by the pirates. 
The principal trade is now carried on with Manilla, and at the 
time of our visit there were two brigs there from the latter 
port. One was the Lyngain, Captain Du Giols, burden 220 
tons, manned with a crew of twenty-five Manilla men, and 
mounting four brass cannon. The other was the brig Luzon, 
Captain Antonio Sommes, burden 190 tons. Captain S. is a 
fat and jolly Yankee, but as he has a wife and children at Ma- 
nilla, he calls himself a Spaniard, and sails under Spanish col- 
ours. The supercargo of the Luzon, I believe, is an Irishman. 
His name was Windham, and he seemed to be a pompous fel- 
low, quite good-natured, but not particularly talented. He 
was a very friendly man, a gentleman, and a great talker ; he 
rattled off the notes of the English, Spanish, and Malay Ian- 



CN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 337 

guages like a pert miss drumming on a piano. He was to us 
a complete vade-mecum. Several trading vessels had been 
here lately, and ruined the trade by selling goods at a low 
price. Captain Du Giols was in a sad plight. He had sold 
his cargo to the principal datos on credit, and the time of 
payment had expired two months before, during which time 
he had patiently waited for his pay without the slightest pros- 
pect of ever getting it. 

When we came to anchor, we triced up the netting and fired 
a salute. The sultan and suite were much alarmed, and pre- 
pared to fly into the interior, with the crown-pearls and jew- 
elry, as they supposed that we were a Dutch vessel of war, 
come to demand satisfaction for the capture of the schooner at 
Tawee-Tawee. 

The city of Jaeloo contains a population of about 3000, who 
reside in four or five hundred houses, built of bamboo and 
thatched. Part of the houses are situated upon dry land, and 
shaded with cocoanut-trees. But, for the better facility of 
lading and unlading the proas, and to save transportation, the 
commercial part of the city is built on piles over a shoal, upon 
which the tide ebbs and flows. Bamboo bridges communicate 
with the houses, but they have began to decay, and are rickety 
affairs. I nearly broke my neck by falling through one of 
them. The principal communication is kept up in canoes. 
The houses are one story high, and are each provided with a 
door and window. The latter is unglazed, and opens through 
the roof with a shutter, which is closed when it rains ; in such 
a case, of course, the merchants use lamps for light. The 
mosque is a handsome structure, with a stone foundation. On 
a large tree near by was suspended a bell. The palace is a 
large barn-looking building, and part of it is used as a harem. 
The sultan has eight wives. There are several Chinamen 
here, but they are not allowed to be worth over a certain 
amount of money, as the "Malays are exceedingly jealous of 
their prosperity. The datos are the most extensive mer- 
chants, and have great influence with the sultan, who follows 
their directions with scrupulous care. There are two stockade 
forts upon the beach, in the midst of the houses. They are 
fast going to decay. The Balambangan cannon lie inside, dis- 

Ff 



338 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

mounted. The forts would not be of the slightest service iri 
defending the place against a vessel of war. 

Every man and boy in the town wore a great kreese in a 
wooden scabbard, and they prided themselves upon the beauty 
of these weapons. Next to his wife, the Soolooan loves his 
kreese ; and a man's rank and wealth are known by the quan- 
tity of precious metal which adorns the handle or scabbard. 
A man without weapons is looked upon as an insignificant fel- 
low ; but he who is dressed in a flashy calico morning-gown 
and a red silk sash round his waist, bristling with pistols and 
cutlasses, is looked upon with fear and respect. If a vessel of 
war should stop here, she would be worshipped. There are 
many Malay slaves here, who have been made prisoners or 
purchased at other islands. The owner of a slave has abso- 
lute power over him, and holds even his life at his disposal. 
The slaves are well treated, however, if they behave them- 
selves, and in time can purchase their freedom. The pearl- 
shell and beche-de-mer, with which the country once abound- 
ed, has been nearly exhausted in shoal water among the Soo- 
loo Islands ; and instead of taking the former with the hand 
by diving, as heretofore, the Soolooans use wooden rakes, 
sunk with stones, and dragged by means of a rope attached to 
the stern of a canoe under sail. In this way it is said that 
many pearls are lost, as they drop out when the shells are 
struck by the rake. 

The sultan, in imitation of his great prototype, the Emperor 
of China, had lately, by the advice and consent of the datos, 
determined to make each vessel pay a cumshaw of 1000 dol- 
lars for the privilege of trading here. A vessel could anchor, 
but not trade without paying the cumshaw. We went on 
shore decked in gaudy calico morning-gowns, our girdles 
loaded with horse-pistols and cutlasses, and demanded an au- 
dience. We were ushered into a chamber of the palace. It 
was hung round with chints ; at the farther end stood a table, 
and on either side were piles of Chinese chests. We became 
seated, and chocolate and cakes were handed to us. Present- 
ly his royal highness, the sultan, entered, and seated himself 
at the table, surrounded by the principal datos, and followed 
by slaves bearing swords with silver scabbards and silver 
betle-boxes, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 339 

The sultan was in the prime of life, but impotent and sickly 
from excessive indulgence in opium and sensual pleasures. 
He was dressed in a figured silk morning-gown, and merely 
nodded to us when introduced. The datos were handsomely 
dressed in silks and calicoes, after the style of a Chinese gen- 
tleman. For some moments not a word was spoken. Pres- 
ently Captain Morrell broke silence, by saying that he was an 
American, had been to visit islands in the great Pacific Ocean, 
was now on his way home, and had some cargo still left that 
he would be glad to sell, if they wished to buy it ; and that he 
would pay a cumshaw of five per cent, on what he sold. He 
concluded by saying that he would not trade on any other 
terms. The sultan nodded his head to the datos, who informed 
us that they would give us an answer to-morrow. The farce 
ended, and we returned on board the vessel after having in- 
spected the sultan's pearls, which he valued at 10,000 dollars. 
The two largest were oval, imperfectly formed, and about the 
size of pigeons' eggs. Next day we were visited by Dato 
Tyler, the captain of the port, and by Dato Mulloch, the great- 
est merchant in the place. They were accompanied by a host 
of Malays. We heard no more about the cumshaw. For 
two days we carried on a brisk trade, and sold the greater 
part of our cargo, receiving in payment Spanish dollars, gold- 
dust, and the other valuables that I have before mentioned ; 
also some crude camphor. 

Dato Mulloch was an enterprising and intelligent man, 
quick and honourable in all his dealings. He had been to 
Manilla in his own vessel, spoke the Spanish language flu- 
ently, and some few English words. One day I accepted his 
invitation to take a ride. We were mounted on small horses, 
equipped with Spanish saddles, and galloped over a beautiful 
country. 

Our vessel was the first one under American colours that 
had visited Jaeloo, and the populace could not well understand 
the difference between us and Englishmen, for we spoke the 
same language. One day I remarked a slave who had entered 
the cabin with his master, standing near my berth. Soon after 
I went to see the time by my watch, which hung in the cabin. 
It was gone, and I suspected the slave of having stolen it. He 
had left the cabin, I looked for him on deck, I found him in 



340 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

a canoe alongside, and accused him of the theft. He drew a 
kreese upon me, and denied it. I levelled a pistol at him. 
The slave's master ordered him to untie his sash. He did so, 
and my watch fell into the canoe. I picked it up. The next 
day I saw the slave chained on shore by order of his master. 

On the previous night, our sentinel had discovered some- 
thing in the water near the stern. Having hailed three times 
without receiving any reply, he fired his rifle at the object. A 
human voice called for help. We picked up a naked Malay, 
with a kreese in his hand, and placed him on deck. He trem- 
bled with fear, and upon holding a light to his face it looked 
fairly pale. He said that he was a slave, his master had used 
him cruelly, and threatened to kill him to-morrow ; he begged 
us to protect him, and take him to the country whence he had 
been stolen. Luckily, he was not wounded. We did not know 
whether to believe his story or not, but half suspected that he 
had swam off to steal our boat ; if we had anything to do with 
him we might get ourselves in trouble with the Malays. We 
gave him something to eat and drink, put him in the boat, and 
rowed her near the beach, where we told him to jump over- 
board. He did so, and swam to the shore. 

Mr. Windham informed us, that some time ago an English 
vessel, with a crew of fifty men, visited Jaeloo and departed 
for Tawee-Tawee, with several of the citizens of Sooloo on 
board as passengers. During the passage, from some cause 
or other which 1 did not understand, the Malays attempted to 
massacre the captain and crew, but they were worsted, and 
several of them killed in the attempt. A short time previous 
to our arrival, a Spaniard had been killed on shore, because 
he was detected in an intrigue with a girl belonging to the 
sultan's harem ; and another Spaniard had been imprisoned 
for a similar offence. 

Poultry and eggs are abundant and cheap here. Chicken- 
pie and boiled eggs were a common dish with the sailors, and 
every day a cock-fight came off on the forecastle. Deer and 
bullocks can be purchased ; the latter sell for eight piasters 
each. The Malays brought us basketfuls of a kind of fruit, 
about the size of a lime, with a thin, smooth, yellow rind that 
peeled off easily, and presented to view a transparent pulp, 
similar to that of the white grape, and divided into quarters by 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 341 

thin membranes. It was truly a delicious and wholesome 
fruit. We ate them in great quantities with perfect impunity. 
The following is the manner of counting at Sooloo from one 
to nineteen : 

11 Cowharn. 

12 Catoan. 



1 Esar. 

2 Duah. 

3 To. 

4 Opat. 

5 Lemar. 

6 Unum. 

7 Pato. 

8 Wallow. 

9 S6am. 
10 Hong-po. 

We made quite a favourable impression upon the Soolooans, 
and they said that they would always be happy to see the 
Americans again. Having now completed our trade here, we 
received on board a chest of opium from the Luzon, got under 
way, and put to sea, steering N. by W. 



13 Carpotan. 

14 Cyman. 

15 Caterman. 

16 Capitnan. 

17 Cowluan. 

18 Caserman. 

19 Angertose. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

We passed by a number of small snakes, that were floating 
on the surface of the ocean, and saw many schools of small 
fish, that looked like shoals as they swam near the surface. 

With the mountain on Sooloo in sight, bearing south, we 
found ourselves sailing over an extensive coral shoal, and had 
soundings in eight and ten fathoms. This shoal is about six 
miles broad, and we could not see its termination to the east 
or west. It rises abruptly, and gives the ocean a white ap- 
pearance over it, which contrasts strongly with the deep-blue 
colour of the water that marks its boundary, along the north- 
ern line of which- we passed through a strong tide-rip. I re- 
marked that our crew had all taken colds at Sooloo ; whether 
there is any peculiarity in the atmosphere here, compared with 
that of the Pacific Ocean islands, I am not prepared to say. 
We were now winging our way over the Mindoro Sea. On 
the following day we were becalmed. The sea was as smooth 

Ff3 



342 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

as a mirror, and we were surrounded by a large school of 
sperm whales, that were very tame. They sported and spout- 
ed in conscious security, and two of the largest females swam 
close alongside, each accompanied by a calf. On the second 
day after, we sighted Point Flecha, Palawan. It was bluff and 
elevated. This is a fine island, 245 miles long ; still we know 
little or nothing about it or its inhabitants. 

We coasted the east side of Damaran Island. The land 
was hilly and verdant. Grass-fields, fringed with woodlands, 
opened to view as we sailed along. We saw what appeared 
to be a fine bay on the coast, the mouth of which was protect- 
ed by abrupt rocky islets, the summits of which were verdant. 
Passing between the Carandaga Islands, we encountered a 
strong current setting to the southward. Coasting Palawan 
to the northward, we passed through numerous islets. Next 
day we sailed through a strait, about one mile wide, situated 
between Linacapan and Palawan. A deep bay, with a curious 
peak at its foot, appeared upon the latter island. Linacapan 
was hilly, and presented to view a fine bay, with a remarkable 
hill near its mouth. This would be a good site for a town. 
The land on all the islands appeared clayey, rocky, and bar- 
ren. Not a human being could be seen. The land at the foot 
of the bay on Linacapan, and in the valleys in the interior, 
seemed to be fruitful and verdant. In the strait lie some of 
the most singular and fantastically-formed rocky islets that I 
ever saw ; that the reader may have some idea of their ap- 
pearance, I present the following drawing of one that was not 
more than half a mile in length. 




I must again remind the reader that all charts of this region 
are very incorrect. 
During the night we coasted the west side of Calamiane, 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 343 

and the next day the west side of Busvagan, along the shore 
of which are sprinkled abrupt rocky islets. At its northwest 
end we sailed over a shoal, upon which we had soundings in 
from six to ten fathoms. We distinctly saw the coral beneath 
the vessel, and sharks swimming about in the shallow water. 

The next day was hot and sultry. We were becalmed off 
Calavite Point, Mindoro. A booby alighted upon the end of 
the main boom, and a monkey attempted to drive him off, but 
he showed fight, and Jacko retreated, grinning and chattering 
with vexation. Several swallows and two yellow-birds also 
came on deck. At night we passed Goat Island, and on the 
following morning sailed across the mouth of Manilla Bay, 
coasting Luzon to northward. We passed a coasting schoon- 
er, with sails made of native " canvass." and full of holes. The 
scenery upon the land was varied. Near Capones Point it is 
mountainous, and presents to view denuded and gashed clay 
bluffs. To the northward it is not so elevated, and is formed 
of hills and valleys that are verdant. 

Next day we were becalmed off Cape Bolinao, and here, in 
latitude 16° 30' N-, we found the heat much more oppressive 
than at the islands in the Pacific Ocean near the equator. The 
thermometer ranged at 113° in the sun, and the day before it 
stood at 95° in the shade. During the night we took a strong 
breeze, and, bidding farewell to the Philippines, launched out 
upon the China Sea. On the two following days the wind 
blew a gale from E.N.E., accompanied by a rough sea. On 
the following day, as determined by two sets of lunar observa- 
tions, between the moon, and Jupiter, and Pollux, we were in 
latitude 21° 20' N., longitude 116° 55' 14" E. Having passed 
the dangerous Pratas, we kept off a point. 

Next morning we were close in with the coast of Fokien 
China, and the ocean, for miles, was literally covered with 
fishing-boats. They are quite large, and carry two mat sails. 
Each boat contains a Chinaman and his family. They cruise 
in pairs, and throw overboard a large seine, one end being se- 
cured to each boat, whereupon they throw their sails aback 
and drift to leeward. 

The following drawing represents one of these fishing-boats. 

We coasted to the southward. The fishermen were very 
independent, and would not get out of the way of us " barba- 



344 



INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 




nans." We had much trouble in steering clear of them. Once 
we sailed over a seine, and it most unfortunately caught to the 
heel of the rudder, dragging one of the boats into violent con- 
tact with us and tearing the seine to pieces. A fleet of boats 
soon surrounded us, the Chinamen all the while cursing at the 
top of their voices, and demanding satisfaction. " What can 
do Fanquilo!" Gradually, as their numbers increased, they 
became courageous, and then outrageous. Several hundred 
stout fishermen essayed to board us. We triced up the ports 
and ran out the cannon. They became silent, shoved off their 
boats, and we proceeded on our course. Next day we passed 
Haihong and Fokai-Fou, sailing inside of the isolated rock 
Pedra Blanca. The immediate coast was low, and composed 
of sand and red clay. Rocky islets were scattered along In 
the interior the land was mountainous. The scene presented 
to view was one of extreme sterility. When I looked upon 
this barren scene, my mind wandered back with pleasure to 
verdant Australasia. 

Next day we sailed through the Lema Islands, and anchored 
at L.ntin, with its peak bearing E. three quarters N The 
reader is aware that we were now in Canton Bay, which is sev 
enty or more miles deep, and filled up with hundreds of isl- 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 345 

ands. Those near the mouth are lofty, rocky, and barren. 
From Whampoa to Canton they are alluvial, and but little el- 
evated above the water, and are cultivated in rice-fields. 

The English barque Agnes, Captain Swain, manned with a 
crew of Lascars, and the American barque Lintin, lay at an- 
chor near us. They are what are called " receiving-ships," and 
are engaged in smuggling opium. A number of ships were 
anchored in Cum-sing-moon Harbour, opposite Lintin, where 
they have been riding out the southwest monsoon. Among 
them are two beautiful British clippers ; one a brig, and the 
other the schooner Yatcahan. They performed a pleasure- 
trip to Lintin, and, with a spanker breeze, ran a well-contested 
race, careering around us in gallant style, with their quarter- 
decks filled with ladies and gentlemen. 

Bum-boats, with confectionary and knick-knacks for sale, 
came daily alongside. I visited the town on the west side of 
Lintin. It is situated near the beach, on a strip of low, level 
ground, between two hills, and contains about thirty houses, 
which are one story high, built of black bricks, and roofed with 
tiles. The ground forms the floors of the houses. One was 
occupied as a school-house ; the teacher sat at the door, smo- 
king a pipe with much composure, while the children played 
out doors. Desks and seats were ranged round the room, and 
upon them lay books, printed in Chinese characters. Each 
scholar was provided with a cup of water, a stick of India ink, 
and a camel's-hair pencil, with which they marked letters 
upon paper. The price of tuition was from three to five dol- 
lars a year. On the rear wall of the room was a painting of 
Josh surrounded with tinsel. Every house and every boat are 
provided with a little tinseled wax figure representing Josh, 
who is the Chinaman's tutelar deity, whom he worships morn- 
ing and evening by " chin-chinning" him with burning paper 
and fire-crackers. In front of the town is a large artificial 
pond, and around it stood about fifty bullocks and cows, and 
about as many hogs. The latter were hollow-backed, and so 
fat that you could hardly see their eyes for the encroachment 
of their chubby cheeks, and they walked with considerable la- 
bour. The cattle were small, but plump and in good condi- 
tion. They were kept here to supply the shipping, and sold 
at the following prices : bullocks, ten dollars a picul ; hogs, 



346 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

thirteen dollars a picul ; sweet potatoes, one dollar a picul ; 
fowls, two dollars a dozen; eggs, one dollar a hundred. 

The soil of Lintin is naturally barren, but the industry of the 
inhabitants has made it productive in many places. A steep 
dale near the town has been terraced into regular steps, faced 
with a stone wall, and planted with rice, which flourishes quite 
to the summit of the hills, and is perpetually irrigated by a 
gentle stream of water from the top of the hills, which mean- 
ders from terrace to terrace, and finally empties into the sea at 
the. spot where shipping receive their supply. The Chinaman 
who came daily alongside in his bum-boat, paid six dollars a 
year for the privilege of trading with ships, payment to be made 
half yearly to six different mandarins, who each received one 
dollar per annum. Vessels anchor in the outer harbours free 
of expense, but those that go to Whampoa pay a cumshaw, 
except in case they are loaded with rice. To clear this ex- 
pense, we took in a cargo of 2838 bags of rice, which we re- 
ceived from the British East Indiaman, Earl of Belcarris, from 
Samarang. 

Mr. W was despatched in a Chinese boat to procure a 

pilot. Upon his arrival at Macao, he found himself in a dilem- 
ma, as he had not taken any money with him, and it was ne- 
cessary to pay before a pilot could be procured. He was for- 
tunately relieved from his embarrassment by the gentlemanly 
and hospitable Captain James Sturges, who politely loaned 
him sixty dollars, the price for a pilot. 

The pilot having arrived on board, we set sail for Canton. 
At the Bocca Tigris we were detained all night by the pilot, 
who went on shore to have our chop countersigned by the 
mandarin at the fort. This procuring chops, and the delay of 
countersigning, arc a great farce and a great bore. 

The Bocca Tigris is a narrow pass, with barren hills on ei- 
ther side, and is defended by eight forts, scattered along on 
either side at the foot of the hills, and near the water's edge. 
They are low, and neatly built of granite, with step-like walls 
reaching up the hills in the rear. They are calculated more 
for show than service, and could not for an hour resist a bom- 
bardment. The names of the Bocca forts are Shar-coke, 
Long-hi, Chon-une, Wong-tong, Ty-foo, Ty-cock-tow, and 
Long-shu. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 347 

The next day we passed several small villages, and at dark 
sailed over the first bar, between a line of guide-boats, each 
of which showed a signal light. The wind fell away, and we 
anchored near the first chop-house, whence came pealing on 
the ear a great clattering of gongs. Next morning we entered 
Whampoa-reach, in the centre of which lay moored, with two 
anchors and swivels, a long line of ships, belonging to various 
nations. We anchored at the head of the reach, in sight of 
the walled town of Wampoa, which is situated some distance 
from the river. This place is about seven miles below Can- 
ton, and here the ships of European nations await their cargo, 
which is brought from Canton in chop-boats. The anchor had 
scarcely felt the bottom when we were surrounded by Tankea 
boats, manned with buxom girls, who came on board and beg- 
ged our clothes to wash. They were dressed in loose blue 
nankin shirts and trousers, with their black hair neatly platted 
into a tail, and hanging down their backs, reaching to their 
knees. Some of them were quite handsome, and from four- 
teen to twenty years of age. They took us by the hand, and, 
looking in our faces with their mellow black eyes, accompa- 
nied by what were meant for witching smiles and a peculiar 
singing voice, recognised us as old acquaintances, whether 
they had seen us before or not, in their broken English, " My 
chin-chin you ; me savee you lass voyage ; my washe you 
muche good ; can do all the same now ; muchee good sweet- 
meats you savee." They wash the clothes in their boats, with 
the river water. The one whom I employed was very honest 
and industrious. I never missed a solitary piece during our 
stay ; they were always returned regularly, and in good order. 
She washed, mended, and ironed them for one dollar a hun- 
dred pieces. 

The furnishing of vessels with provisions and other articles 
is a kind of monopoly here, and must pass through the hands 
of a compradore. Boston Jack came on board to solicit our 
custom. He dresses in silk and crape, with a scull-cap on his 
head ; he is rather fleshy, about five feet eight inches high, 
and fifty years old; he is a gentleman, and possesses con- 
siderable business talent. He was formerly poor, but is now 
in a fair way to make his fortune. Chop-boats from Canton 
eame alongside, and we began discharging the rice. A clerk 



348 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

from Canton also came in his boat, to take an account of the 
cargo. He had servants to attend him. They placed a table 
near the fore hatch with an awning over it, and here he sat 
with his swanpawn, Indian ink, water, and pencils, taking an 
account of the number of bags as well as pounds. The Chi- 
nese are noted for being remarkably correct in all their ac- 
counts. Considerable rice was spilled on deck. The Tankea 
girls came on board and claimed it. We drove them over the 
bulwarks, but in a few moments they were provided with 
scoop-nets, and when our backs were turned towards them, 
down came the nets dragging the deck. 

The land on the west side of Whampoa reach is formed by 
French Island, which is hilly and verdant. One day we saw 
the funeral of a Chinaman here ; his remains were deposited 
in the ground amid a flourish of music, and firing of crackers 
and squibs. After the cargo had been discharged and the ves- 
sel put in order, Captain Morrell called the crew together and 
informed them that the romance of the voyage had ended, and 
that we were now merely a merchantman, bound to New- 
York with a cargo, and that he would now discharge all the 
crew shipped at Mauritius, as he had no farther use for them. 
The sailors were loath to leave the vessel that had borne them 
through so many scenes of hazard and adventure ; they loved 
the " fairy craft." But they soon got good situations among 
the different ships in port, which happened to be short-handed 
and in want of men. When they left us, they shook hands 
with their captain, and the big tear stood in their manly eyes 
as they said with one accord, " Farewell, shipmates : good 
luck, a prosperous voyage, and plenty of shot in your lockers 
when you get old !" For several days we missed well-known 
faces on board, and it was with an effort we shook off the 
gloom caused by their departure. 

Captain Morrell proceeded to Canton to transact the busi- 
ness of the vessel, and every other day I went up to the city 
in the Invincible. On Honan Island, immediately above 
Whampoa, stands the largest pagoda in the province ; it is 215 
feet high, forty-two feet in diameter at the base, divided into 
nine stories, and built of gray stone. It must be several hun- 
dred years old, and is crumbling to ruins. On the cornices 
grow trees and parasites. When it was built, or for what pur- 





L 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 349 

pose, I could not ascertain ; but most probably it was erected 
to commemorate some religious superstition. Passing- How- 
qua's Fort, we entered among the boats, the rafts, and the 
stakes that line the river in the precincts of Canton, and pass- 
ed the islet upon which is situated the " Dutch Folly." The 
hum of voices and the banging of gongs rose upon the -ear. 
Fanciful streamers floated from the mast-heads of the junks, 
and men stood on their sterns, chin-chinning Josh by setting 
off packs of fire-crackers and burning perfumed paper. We 
soon found ourselves hemmed in among a mass of boats, and 
scarcely had room to move our oars. The Chinamen would 
not move for us ; we cursed them, they cursed us, and the 
women held up their babies to look at the frightful fanqui's 
(barbarians). 

At length we landed in front of the factories, and walked 
over " Bamboo Square." Here we encountered a motley 
throng. One man was exhibiting an obscene puppet-show, 
another had white mice in cages to sell. Then came a bar- 
ber, carrying his stool and other implements of trade, and 
twanging a musical wire. A customer hailed him ; he placed 
the stool on the ground, and the customer seated himself upon 
it, while the barber shaved his face, platted his hair, and washed 
his hands in the midst of the throng that were passing to and fro. 

A Chinaman of wealth, when walking out, carries a large 
fan, to shield his face from the sun. He wears nothing on his 
head, save a small scull-cap. His dress is flowing and easy, 
his shoes large, with thick soles and turned-up toes. All the 
poorer class of men and women go barefooted. 

The streets of Canton are narrow, and flagged with smooth 
stones. No horses or wheeled vehicles pass through them. 
Wood, charcoal, vegetables, &c, are carried upon the shoul- 
ders of men, who balance a long pole upon one shoulder " fore 
and aft," to each end of which is affixed a basket containing 
the burden. Mandarins are carried through the streets in 
gilded sedans upon the shoulders of men, and two runners go 
forward to clear the way by hallooing, " Huy ! huy !" I at- 
tempted several times to enter the interior city, and passed 
through the gate of the wall, but was ordered back every time 
by the guard and the populace, who were quite insulting. My 
perambulations were, therefore, confined to the suburbs. The 

G G 



350 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

shop-keepers were obliging, and generally greeted me with, 
" Cumshar, my have got vely fine ivoly ting ; can make see 
painting funny ting; can do littee pigeon muchee cheap." 
Groups of licensed beggars wander through the streets. They 
are squalid, and often deformed, and embrace men, women, 
and children. When they see a customer enter a store, they 
stand before the door and make a great clatter, sounding rat- 
tles and beating flat sticks together. The store-keeper, afraid 
of losing his customer, frequently throws them a few pice to 
get rid of the noise. One of these beggar-women was a mel- 
ancholy and pitiful object. She was so bent over that she 
fairly walked upon her hands and feet. In a cabinet-maker's 
shop I saw the journeymen eating their dinner of boiled rice 
from a large wooden bowl. Each man was provided with a 
pair of chop-sticks, which he revolved in his hands. 

In Physic-street are many fine apothecary stores, where 
may be purchased quack-medicines or cure-alls for every dis- 
ease that " flesh is heir to." In some of the streets stood 
market-stalls, upon which were displayed various kinds of an- 
imal food for sale ; skinned cats and rats were conspicuous 
objects. 

I accidentally obtained admittance to a Chinese theatre. 
The gongs sounded, the curtain rose, and a number of harle- 
quins, dressed like our circus clowns, came tumbling across 
the stage like so many hoops. They performed various com- 
ical feats, neither very wonderful nor very decent, and the au- 
dience enjoyed a hearty laugh. The performance ended by 
the harlequins forming a grand pyramid, by standing on each 
other's shoulders, three men high, and terminated by a little 
boy, who threw a somerset from the top, and alighted upon 
an outspread canvass. 

On the river opposite the city there floats a line of beauti- 
fully-latticed and gilded boats, with flower-pots on deck. They 
are splendidly furnished, and called flower-boats, or, collective- 
ly, " the string of pearls." In them reside handsome girls, 
who are instructed in all the blandishments and allurements 
calculated to please and attract the other sex, and are particu- 
larly intended to administer to the vice and sensuality of 
wealthy Chinamen. 

The hull of most of the Chinese boats resembles in shape 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN* 351 

the half of an egg-shell cut lengthwise, the point forming the 
bow and the other end the stern. All the boats are sculled by 
a large oar over the stern, rigged in an iron socket. This 
gives them the advantage of moving in a crowd, where there 
is not room to work oars. All the junks have an eye painted 
on each bow ; the Chinamen say, " Spose no have eye, no can 
see." The factories are the largest and best buildings in the 
suburbs of Canton. The great mass of the houses are no bet- 
ter than so many sheds and barns, when compared to the beau- 
tiful and costly houses in the principal cities of the American 
Union. There is a great deal of " gingerbread- work" about 
Canton, which savours strongly of lanterns, masks, colours, 
squibs, and gongs, all national peculiarities. 

It is not my intention to swell the size of this book by en- 
tering into an historical description of the Empire of China, nor 
to express my views of the late British invasion. In this work 
I have confined myself to a few of the immediate incidents 
that came under my personal observation. Discussions of 
public events may be readily found in other works. 

The European merchants resident at Canton are like so 
many birds confined in a cage ; they are at the mercy of the 
Chinese, so far as relates to food, drink, and servants, and can- 
not have lawful wives. There is a deep-rooted prejudice 
among the Chinese in favour of " old customs," and no great 
change can be effected suddenly, except at the point of the 
sword. From infancy they are taught to look upon a for- 
eigner as a being inferior to a native of the Celestial Empire. 
They profess to respect Europeans, in order to get from them 
the " almighty dollar^" The Emperor of China fears the power 
of Europeans, and hence he interdicts their women and mis- 
sionaries, and endeavours to keep alive the prejudices of his 
subjects against all "barbarians." He knows that if they 
once gain a foothold in the country, and become the owners 
of property, the prejudices of his people will gradually wear 
away and his power will be overthrown. 

It was very sickly at Whampoa during our stay. Most of 
the sailors on board the ships were sick with colds and fevers, 
occasioned by the malign miasma that rises from the paddy 
fields after sunset, and by drinking too much shamsoo. The 
crew of our vessel were nearly all laid up. The change of 



352 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

temperature affected them more than anything else. It was 
quite cold here, for it was the commencement of winter, and 
we were obliged to put on woollen clothing ; all the sailors 
wished themselves once more on shore at MorrelFs Group. 

The Tankea girls kept their boats and persons very clean ; 
the former were carpeted with clean rice-straw mats, and the 
latter we saw every morning performing their toilet by wash- 
ing themselves with the river water alongside, and combing 
and platting the universal " tail." Chop-boats from Canton 
brought our cargo, and Chinese stevedores stowed it. We 
were soon laden and ready for sea. Our cargo consisted of 
teas, silks, cassia, and fancy articles, valued at $250,000 ; and, 
as the vessel was a fast sailer, it was expected that she would 
make a quick trip to New- York, and reap the profits of the 
first cargo for the spring trade. The washing-girls were re- 
markably kind and generous. They came on board to bid us 
farewell, and presented us sweetmeats and oranges. The 
Chinese have a great many good traits in their character. At 
half ebb tide we filled our casks with water taken from the 
river alongside. We weighed the anchor apeak and kedged 
down the reach through the shipping. Once the anchor miss- 
ed its hold, the flying jib-boom ran into the rigging of the brig 
Argyle, and as we swung clear our stern ran into a chop-boat, 
doing her some damage, and causing a large stout Chinaman 
to turn a somerset overboard. The Chinese made a great 
clamour, and cursed us heartily. 

Having received a chop and pilot, we made sail down the 
Tigris, and on the following day anchored at Lintin. From 
the barque Lintin we procured a supply of pork, flour, rice, su- 
gar, candles, and oil. Our sick were quite revived when they 
breathed the pure air of Lintin. 

All our officers, except the chief mate, had left us and ob- 
tained good berths on board of Bombay ships. I was now 
appointed second officer, and assumed the duties of my station. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 353 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

We weighed anchor, set sail, waved farewell to the Celes- 
tial Empire, and put to sea on our homeward course. On- 
ward we sped, before the northeast monsoon, over the China 
Sea. On the second night after leaving port, we encountered 
a terrible typhon. We were scudding in a dangerous sea un- 
der close-reefed topsails. A terrible crash was heard ! the 
vessel trembled like an aspen-leaf, flew up in the wind with 
the sea pouring in over the bow, and the topsails shivering 
like so many rags, while the masts threatened every instant 
to go by the board. All hands rushed on deck, and as the 
roaring and dashing sea threw its foam on board, there was a 
universal shudder, as if the vessel was doomed to founder. 
Some supposed we had struck a rock. The sad reality was 
soon apparent. We had lost our rudder, and were a plaything 
for the typhon and the sea. The night was dismally dark, and 
our voices could scarcely be heard above the roaring of the 
tempest. According to our calculations, we were driving near 
the mouth of the Gulf of Tonkin. In the morning we saw our 
danger. We were drifting upon the southeast coast of Hainan, 
on which the sea broke with fury as high as the topsail yards. 
We rolled the water and provisions on deck aft, to bring the 
vessel by the stern, and then, with a hawser towing over the 
stern and by manoeuvring the yards and sails, we got the ves- 
sel around, with her head to the eastward, and with storm-sails 
she lay to, creeping gradually off shore. 

When the storm abated, we rigged a temporary rudder, se- 
cured by heel lashings passed through the after ports. In fair 
weather we were enabled to make tolerable progress on our 
course, assisted now and then by the sweeps, and by manoeu- 
vring the hawser and main topsail. But the moment it began 
to blow violently, and the sea became rough, we were forced 
to lie to, as the temporary rudder had but little hold on the 
water, and in a seaway was of no use whatever. 

We sighted Polo Catan and coasted Cochin China. On the 
following day we saw Conical Hill and Pagoda Cape ; the lat- 

G g 2 



354 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

ter is formed by two elevated mountains, upon the summit ot 
one of which there rises a singular and conspicuous rock. 
Next day we came near driving upon the dangerous rocky isl- 
and of Polo Sapata, upon which the sea broke with violence. 
The parrel of the fore-topsail yard gave way at a critical junc- 
ture, and the sail was torn at the very moment that we weath- 
ered the rock in safety. Next day we passed the mouth of the 
River Camboja, and on the following crossed the Gulf of 
Siam. Next day we encountered blustering winds and heavy 
rains, and an eagle perched upon the topsail yard. The night 
set in dark and gloomy, and the clouds looked portentous. 
We lay to with the bow towards the land. At midnight the 
soundings suddenly decreased from ten to five fathoms, no 
land in sight. We endeavoured to wear ship, but were un- 
successful. At the moment the vessel was ready to go about 
a sea would strike the quarter and drive her back. The sound- 
ings were all the while decreasing. We threw overboard one 
anchor and a large part of our cargo, consisting of boxes of 
tea. After this we got the vessel on the other tack and crept 
off shore. 

Next day the storm abated, and we saw the Malay Penin- 
sula, which we coasted. The land was elevated, except on 
the immediate coast, where it was low. We passed a ship's 
topmast floating on the water, and soon after saw what we 
took to be a wreck ; but it proved to be a floating islet, com- 
posed of the matted and gnarled roots of trees, supporting 
some soil, upon which grew several palmettoes. Several 
dragon-flies hovered over it, and they paid us a temporary visit 
on board. 

We passed near the rocky islet of Polo Varela, and thought 
we discovered a signal flying upon its summit on a pole. A 
proa, filled with Malays, dogged us alongshore, which we took 
to be a pirate. We sailed between the main and several rocky 
islets, that were covered with a stinted verdure upon their 
summits. At night we anchored inside of Timoan, which is 
composed of two peaks, called the Asses' Ears, the southern- 
most one bearing E. by N., and we saw it between two inter- 
vening rocky islets. The land on the Malay Peninsula is in 
general elevated, the soil clayey and rocky, but covered with 
shrubs. No signs of inhabitants could be seen. At the foot 



Hi THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 355 

of a hollow there was a remarkable strip of level land, with a 
conical mound rising from its centre. Next day we coasted 
the land to the southward, passing inside of the islands of Pi- 
sang, Aore, and Tingy. In the afternoon we anchored near 
the southwest side of Polo Baby, over which we saw the peak 
of Tingy, bearing N.N.E. The former island is verdant, and 
a hollow in the land looked as if it might afford safe anchorage 
during the prevalence of the northeast monsoon. 

The Malay Peninsula is here elevated, and covered with a 
dense forest of stately trees. No clearings, habitations, or in- 
habitants could be seen. The largest portion of this beautiful 
country lies in a state of nature. Next day we were under 
way, sailing through a strait, a mile in width, between Point 
Romania and several islets. We were soon in Singapore 
Strait, and several large islands were in sight to the south- 
ward. They were in general low, level, and covered with for- 
ests ; here and there rose a gentle mound. The coast was in 
some places composed of white sand, and in others of black 
rock. No habitations could be seen. Several proas passed 
us, and the Malays on board sang their national songs. 

We encountered a strong current, and it was not until the 
next morning that we entered the spacious Bay of Singapore, 
and anchored in. front of the town. We were besieged by a 
fleet of bum-boats and sampans, manned by natives from all 
parts of the Indies, each dressed in the costume and speaking 
the language peculiar to the country of his nativity. The 
" compradores" wanted to supply us with fresh provisions and 
" soft tack," the sampan men to wait upon the vessel, and the 
bum-boat men to sell us precious stones and shells, macassar 
oil, paradise birds, fruits, &c. The latter were great rascals. 
The two former seemed to be more respectable, and showed 
us written certificates of character from the captains of ships 
that had employed them. We refused to admit the bum-boat 
men on board, as we had no great opinion of their honesty. 
We discharged the cargo from the after part of the vessel in 
lighters, and thus brought her by the head. Chinese ship-car- 
penters took a mould and went to work making a rudder. M. 
Balestier, the gentlemanly American consul, transacted our 
business, and I took several strolls through the town in com- 
pany with his son. The Chinese seem to comprise the most 



356 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

numerous part of the population, and carry on all the mechan- 
ical branches ; having just come from Canton, I remarked how 
much more obsequious they are here towards Europeans than 
in their native country. 

Able-bodied coolies can be hired for twelve and a half cents 
per day, or four dollars per calendar month, they finding them- 
selves everything except tools or implements. Mr. Balestier 
has undertaken to cultivate sugar near the town. Any man 
can squat on land and hold it at present free of cost. He can 
come and go at his pleasure, provided he conforms to the 
laws. But squatters are liable to be taxed by the enactment of 
laws at future periods. 

Singapore is situated only eighty miles north of the equator, 
and is a remarkably healthy place. Mr. Balestier informed 
me that Europeans enjoy as good health here as in any part of 
the world. There is no prevailing fever, dysentery, or other 
disease, and, during the three years of our worthy consul's 
abode, not a death has taken place on board all the American 
vessels that have visited the port. An importation of " Yan- 
kee girls" might find a good market. There were only two 
white maidens in the place, and they were run down with suit- 
ers. A report was current that Malay pirates were concen- 
trating their forces among the neighbouring islands for the 
purpose of plundering ships. Houses of brick can be built 
very cheaply here. Enormous lead-coloured buffaloes are 
used as beasts of burden. A weekly paper and a price-current 
are printed in the city. For the benefit of the reader, I give 
the following graphic sketch of Singapore, extracted from a 
book entitled " Around the World, by an Officer in the Navy :" 

" The town of Singapore* lies at the western angle of a spa- 
cious bay, upon the southwest end of the island. A few hil- 
locks, including Government Hill, with its neat bungalow and 
flagstaff, form the background of an alluvial plain, upon which 
the most conspicuous part of the city stands. This plain is 
the esplanade, whereon appear a large white courthouse at 
one end, the Raffles Institute, or College, at the other, an 
Episcopal church in a central square, enclosed by a hedge, 
and between these, upon a rear street, the beautiful dwellings 
of the Europeans. The best houses here are said to resemble 

* From " sing-gah," to rest at, and " poor," a city. 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN* 357 

in style the sumptuous mansions in the city of palaces, having 
colonnades in front, and large verandas with Venitian blinds on 
nearly all sides, and spacious courtyards of trees and shrub- 
bery surrounding them. 

" On the eastern angle of the city, terminated by a deep 
inlet called Rocher River, is the suburb of Campong Glam, oc- 
cupied by a Malay bazar and a settlement of Bugis huts, 
mostly standing upon piles in stagnant water. On the west- 
ern side a low converging point runs in the harbour, which is 
separated from the esplanade and central parts by Singapore 
Creek or Inlet. This point once had a rocky hill upon it, but 
it has been completely levelled by the Europeans, and is now 
thickly settled with lofty mercantile warehouses, here called 
1 Go downs,'* which are built mostly of stone and brick, and 
occupied by English, Scotch, Portuguese, and Parsees. Far- 
ther up are the suburbs of Campong China and Campong Ma- 
lacca, filled with a bustling, industrious population of four or 
five thousand Chinese mechanics and tradesmen, as many 
Malays, and nearly that number of the shrewd, peddling 
Moors, each having their different temples and dwellings in- 
terspersed. 

"The pretty creek that separates this commercial point 
from the esplanade presents at all times a most animated 
scene, and especially the lower part. It is about three hun- 
dred feet wide, and navigable for boats two miles up. The 
commercial side, from the little fort at the end of the point up 
to the bridge, is lined with large white storehouses, mercan- 
tile offices, and a bazar. Stone flights of steps are formed 
on each side of the landings, and upon its surface are con- 
stantly plying in and out the Chinese sampans and wangcongs, 
the Malay tambangs and bugis prahas, which are all different 
kinds of boats. Many families are also huddled together there, 
in floating homes, like those of Canton, and at night the flick- 
ering bright lights of these ' ourang laut' people, as they are 
called by the natives, make a very lively and agreeable scene. 
Nor is the harbour outside less attractive, when viewed either 
from Government Hill or as one approaches the city from the 
outer anchorage. There are to be seen the green-headed 
junks of Pekin, the yellow-headed junks from Canton, the red 

* An English corruption of the Malay term "godanjj." 



358 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

from Cochin China and Siam, and others from Japan, each ves- 
sel having two large painted eyes in the bow. Then there are 
the Malay prahas, bearing pepper and gold-dust, with sago and 
argus pheasants from Sumatra, and bugis prahas with birds 
of paradise, and precious gums and spices from Borneo and 
the Celebes, and, among these, the mammoth East Indiamen, 
and Moorish daus, and ships of war that meet together there 
and unfurl their streamers and flags of every colour and nation 
as freely as if at home upon their own waters. 

11 In three months after the settlement of Singapore under 
the favourable governance of Sir Stamford Raffles, in 1819, five 
thousand emigrants had settled there. 1822 the amount of 

trade was 130,629 tons, by 3326 departures and arrivals of for- 
eign and native vessels, valued at $8,496,172. For 1832 the 
exports and imports were valued at $14,878,516, and its in- 
crease has been in a greater ratio since. Is not here present- 
ed, then, a precocious settlement almost equal in its progress 
to the wonderful cities that rise with the facility of a mirage 
in the Western World ! 

" It is customary in Singapore, as at the other English set- 
tlements in the East, to take the evening drive just before din- 
ner, and at the agreeable hour about five or six o'clock, the 
broad, smooth green of the esplanade, quite open to the cool 
sea air, is enlivened with a variety of equipages and occupants 
as fair and gay as in any like place within the tropics. The 
scene, time, and place generally attract numbers of the lazy 
Malays to lounge or gamble beneath the shelter of the trees, 
and the more sportive Chinese to wrestle and vault upon the 
banks, while occasionally a few of the better class of Moors 
are seen sauntering along in their peculiar stateliness." 

As our vessel was to proceed directly to New- York, and 
might be delayed some time at Singapore, and as I wished to 
perform a circuitous route, for the purpose of visiting other 
parts of the world, I determined to leave her here. Captain 
Morrell reluctantly consented. I engaged passage on board 
the English brig Ann, Captain E. J. Abell, bound hence to 
South America, via the Cape of Good Hope and St. Helena. 
With unfeigned regret and many recollections of the novel 
scenes and adventures we had passed through, I bade my ship- 
mates of the Margaret Oakley farewell, as I embarked in the 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 359 

Sylph with the captain and W . I soon stood upon the 

quarter of the brig Ann ; she was under way, with all sail set. 

Captain Morrell and W each took me by the hand as they 

stood in the Sylph, and the big tear stood in our eyes as they 
said, " Farewell, Tom ; a prosperous voyage, and may we soon 
meet again!" With this they shoved off, and our trim bark 
danced cheerily out to sea. 

And now, courteous reader, for the present I will leave the 
Margaret Oakley at Singapore, undergoing repairs, and first 
give you a synopsis of my own adventures until my return 
home. 

I found the society on board the Ann very social and agree- 
able. I was the only passenger. The supercargo, M. A. 
Newton, Esq., was very much of a gentlemen, and a man of 
much talent and intelligence. We passed our leisure mo- 
ments in playing chess, and, when the sea became so rough 
as to dance the men off the board, we sealed up bottles with 
the name of the vessel, the latitude, &c, inside, and cast them 
into the sea, in order that whoever picked them up might know 
the direction of the current. At other times we exercised by 
taking a pull or a haul, and by climbing the main topmast 
back stay hand over hand. 

After leaving Singapore we sailed through Dryon Strait and 
coasted Sumatra, the shores of which were low and wooded. 
We saw the Calantigas and Polo Sinkep, and sailed through 
the Straits of Banca. We anchored near the Two Sisters, two 
secondary islets, and landed upon one of them, where we shot 
a great many white pigeons, with the tips of the tail and wing 
feathers black. These islets are uninhabited; but we saw 
half a canoe lying upon the beach, the ashes and charred wood 
of a fire, fishing-stakes in the water, and the shells of turtle. 
Several sago-trees had also been cut down and the pith dug 
out. Leaving these islets, we passed through the Straits of 
Sunda, crossed the Indian Ocean, and, after an ordinary voy- 
age, arrived off the south coast of Africa, in sight of which we 
cruised over the Lagulhas Bank, where the water was of a 
deep-green colour ; I should suppose good fishing would be 
found on the bank. 

Cape Infanta is an elevated, level piece of land, covered 
with stinted verdure. The extreme cape terminates with an 



360 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

abrupt clay and sand cliff, in which there seemed to be a large 
hole, resembling the mouth of a cave. In the interior the land 
rose into barren mountains. We doubled the Cape of Good 
Hope close aboard, and coasted the land to the northward. 
Two hills were very broken and rocky. The land is stony, 
clayey, sandy, and barren. In the vales near the beach there 
were some marks of verdant fields like grass, and white 
houses, with black roofs, were scattered here and there. 
Houts Bay, beneath the brow of Table Mountain, looked more 
fertile, and a collection of neat houses were nestled in the vale. 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

It was late in the afternoon when we sighted the lighthouse 
and entered Table Bay. A white cloud had spread itself over 
Table Mountain. The Sugar-Loaf, Lion's Head and Rump, 
were in full view ; upon the latter was a signal station. On a 
gently-sloping, grassy esplanade, near the beach, were ranged 
several neat country residences. One spacious white build- 
ing, surrounded by a neat little garden, seemed perched like 
an eagle's nest in a chasm of the Lion's Rump. Cape Town 
now opened to view, with its white buildings, and we prepared 
to anchor and visit the shore. Most unfortunately, at this very 
moment, that wicked " table-cloth" moved and curled down 
over the towering brow of Table Mountain. We close-reefed 
the topsails, although it was quite calm. A distant roar from 
the base of the mountain rose louder and louder upon the ear. 
Suddenly a tempest struck the vessel, that made the spars and 
rigging strain and crack most fearfully. Away we drove be- 
fore the blast, through Robben Island Passage, out upon the 
ocean. All night we scudded before a cold and cutting gale 
from the southeast, steering N.W. by W\ Next day no land 
in sight, but the water looked dirty, like that on the Lagulhas 
Bank. In eleven days we were close in with the north side 
of St. Helena. From the embrasures of a parapet upon the 
brow of a beetling rock cliff, there pointed down upon our 
deck the muzzles of cannon, and on a sign we read, " Send a 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 361 

boat." An officer in British uniform stood in an "eagle's 
nest," far above our royal mast-head, and, looking down upon 
us, with a trumpet to his mouth, cried, 

"What brig is thaU" 

"The Ann!" 

"Where from?" 

"Singapore!" 

" Any sickness on board V 1 

" No !" 

" You may come to anchor !" 

We soon anchored in front of James Town in twenty fath- 
oms water. The American ship Emerald, Captain Eagleston, 
from the Feejees, and the whale-ship Brunswick, rode at an- 
chor near us. We found the inhabitants of St. Helena kind 
and hospitable. To S. Solomon, Esq., and to Wm. Carroll, 
Esq., the American consul, I feel myself particularly indebted 
for those civilities that tend to make a stranger feel at home 
in an unknown land. 

In company with Captain Eagleston, Mr. Newton, and Mr. 
Osborn, we set out in a carriage, drawn by two horses har- 
nessed tandem, and led by grooms. Leaving the valley by a 
dangerous zigzag road, overhung by loose rocks, we crossed a 
narrow pass, with a yawning chasm on either side, and visited 
the " lion of the place," Napoleon's Tomb. As this has been 
often described in other books, I will merely state that, having 
obtained a sprig of willow from the tomb, and taken in a supply 
of water, we got under way and put to sea, in company with 
the ship Emerald. 

The next day we compared chronometers with Captain 
Eagleston, and, bidding him farewell, departed on our course. 
After a speedy passage, we found ourselves safely lashed to 
a " sterling" in front of Georgetown, in the Demerara River, 
British Guiana. 

I was about to set out on a journey into the interior of 
South America, by the way of Santa Fe de Bogota, the Falls 
of the Magdalena and Maracaibo, and had made a tour up the 
Demerara and visited an encampment of buck Indians (a port- 
ly, good-looking set of naked, copper-coloured people), for the 
purpose of procuring guides. My plans were changed by 
Messrs. Charles Conyers and Co., who requested me to navi- 

Hh 



362 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

gate their brig, the Atlantic (then loaded with rum and molas- 
ses), to Halifax, Nova Scotia. I embarked in her and put to 
sea. Passing Trinidad and Tobago, we entered the Caribbean 
Islands, coasting the west side of Barbadoes, the east side of 
St. Vincent's and St. Lucia, and the west sides of Martinico 
(the birthplace of the Empress Josephine), Dominica, Guada- 
loupe, the steep rock Redondo, Nevis (the gem of the Carib- 
bees and the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton), St. Christo- 
pher, the east sides of St. Eustatia and Saba, the west sides 
of St. Martin's, Anguilla, and Sombrero. 

In the Gulf Stream, latitude 37° 13' N., longitude 66° 47' W., 
we encountered a tempest from the northeast. Our storm- 
sails were shivered, and we lay to under bare poles (save a 
tarpaulin in the weather main-rigging), in a dangerous chop- 
sea that boarded us on all sides, tearing away the bulwarks. 
We weathered the storm, and, after a boisterous passage, found 
ourselves in a dense fog r with a strong breeze blowing. We 
got soundings with the deep sea lead in thirty-eight fathoms, 
sandy bottom, and the lead clung so tenaciously to the bottom 
that it was with the greatest difficulty we could haul it up 
without carrying away the line. Soon after we had rocky 
bottom in forty-five fathoms. We were upon Le Have Bank. 
The next day we entered Halifax Harbour. On a lofty bluff 
is a fort, and from it a man hailed us with a very long trumpet. 
We soon made fast to a wharf in front of the town. It was 
Sunday, and the sidewalks were lined with women of all ages 
going to church. The female part of the population appeared 
to be much more numerous than the males. Perhaps their 
husbands were at sea, but there were many maidens among 
them. 

I am particularly indebted to the kindness and hospitality of 
Joseph Allison, Esq., and his amiable family, and to Henry 
Creighton, Esq., and his relatives. The citizens of Halifax 
are pre-eminently social and hospitable. I took passage in 
the brig Cordelia, Captain J. E. Lane, and sailed hence for 
Boston, where I threw myself into a railroad car, and the next 
day landed safe in New- York, highly gratified with my "Voy- 
age and Adventures in the Pacific Ocean," but still more highly 
pleased to find " my foot again upon my native heath." 

I inquired for the Margaret Oakley. She had not arrived ! 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 363 

Intelligence had been received of her departure from Singa- 
pore, but her subsequent course no one knew. I awaited her 
arrival for some time, but soon became impatient, and em- 
barked on a trading-cruise to the West Indies, after which I 
performed an arduous horseback travel through the Far West. 
After a protracted absence, I returned to New- York ; still 
no intelligence had yet been received of the Margaret Oakley, 
and her fate was involved in mystery. There were many idle 
rumours afloat among the merchants and ensurance offices. 
One asserted that the captain had turned pirate, another that 
he had run away with the cargo and formed a settlement upon 
some island in the Pacific Ocean. There was a whisper that 
she might have foundered, and I feared that her noble crew, 
my companions and shipmates, had perished ! I gave her up, 
and endeavoured to blot all thoughts of her from my memory; 
but in vain ; the settlement and lucrative trade of the lovely 
and benighted Morrell's Group was ever uppermost in my 
mind, and occupied my sleeping and waking thoughts. 

One beautiful morning, as I sat by my chamber window at 
my residence in Harlem, humming a tune on my flute, and lis- 
tening to the birds upon a cherry-tree opposite, tuning their 
pipes in mockery, I was startled by a loud rap at the hall door, 
and soon a quick tramp came up stairs and approached my 
room, the door of which flew open, and in rushed a weather- 
beaten man, his features almost concealed by beard and mus- 
tache. It was some moments before we spoke, but we grasp- 
ed hands and eyed each other. It was my old shipmate Mr. 

W , who seemed to me as one risen from the dead ! He 

related the fate of the Margaret Oakley. It seems that three 
weeks after my departure from Singapore, she set sail with 
only thirty-five days' provisions on board. She passed through 
the Straits of Banca, and anchored one day at Mintow. After 
this she ran on a mud-bank, and was got off after three hours' 
hard toil. Passing the Straits of Sunda, she shaped her 
course over the Indian Ocean, for the Cocos Islands. In lat- 
itude 10° S. she spoke the bark Levant, Captain M'Michaels, 
and the two captains had some dispute in regard to the longi- 
tude. After this the crew were put on a per diem allowance 
of half a pound of meat and half a gallon of water. She pass- 



364 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES 

ed the Cocos, and, in six weeks after leaving Singapore, an- 
chored at Fort Dauphin, Madagascar. 

On the morning of the third day after her arrival, while the 
captain and part of the crew were on shore buying cattle of 
the natives, a gale of wind arose and a dangerous sea set on 
shore. The vessel plunged and staggered, and the waves com- 
pletely buried the bow, sweeping the deck. The anchor drag- 
ged, and another was let go, but to no purpose. The cables 
parted,*and she drove broadside before the gale. The captain 
arrived upon the beach just in time to see the vessel drive on 
shore and bilge. In half an hour there was three feet water in 
the hold, and it was fast increasing. The hatches were now 
broken open, and all hands endeavoured to save the cargo in 
the boats. By this time two hundred natives had collected 
upon the beach, all willing to lend a hand in " saving" the cargo. 
A string of natives was soon formed, reaching from the ves- 
sel to the shore, some in boats and canoes, and others standing 
in the water. The cargo was soon landed, amid a scene of 
great confusion, and many boxes of costly silks and lackered 
ware were broken open and pillaged by the savages, many of 
whom were seen scampering into the forest with costly flow- 
ered shawls, and remnants of silks, satins, crapes, and hand- 
kerchiefs ornamenting different parts of their persons, while 
under their arms were boxes of tea, bundles of sewing silk, 
and other valuables, the productions of China, and the like of 
which the natives had never before seen. Captain Morrell 
paced the beach to and fro like a maniac, with a brace of pis- 
tols in his hands, threatening to blow out the brains of the first 
man who broke open a box. But he was not ubiquitous, and 
the moment he turned his back, open went a box, and away 
ran the savages with the contents. 

At length the crew got safely on shore, and were put under 
arms to guard the cargo. The next day it was secured from 
the weather with tents made of the sails. The cajeput oil had 
been stolen, and the sago was ruined by the salt water. The 
vessel became a total loss, and different articles drifted ashore 
from the wreck. The savages picked up a box at the foot of 
the bay, and, believing it to contain silks, forthwith broke it 
open to divide the spoils. Judge their surprise and horror 
when they put their hands upon the sculls of the Bidera kings ! 



IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 365 

The savages held a convention over them, and concluded that 
the crew of the Margaret Oakley were a set of piratical can- 
nibals, who had been cruising along the shores of Madagascar, 
eating the people and preserving their sculls. This affair 
came near causing a bloody outbreak of savage fury upon our 
party, and it was only by consummate tact on the part of the 
captain that the enmity of the natives was allayed. The 
sculls were some which I had packed, intending to bring them 
home as curiosities. 

The crew resided here several months, and at length, by 
means of a native craft, sent to Mauritius news of the loss of 
the vessel. The American consul at the latter place immedi- 
ately despatched a vessel to the relief of the crew, part of 
whom were taken on board, together with some of the cargo. 
Captain Morrell and the remainder of the crew and cargo sail- 
ed thence in a British vessel, and arrived safely in England. 
Subsequently, Captain M. visited Paris and the West Indies, 
where he fitted out a clipper vessel, and again winged his way 
over the ocean, doubling the Cape of Good Hope, on his way 
to the Pacific Ocean via Mozambique. He arrived at the lat- 
ter port in safety, but it happened to be a very sickly season 
in this proverbially sickly place ; and he, unfortunately, by the 
last account received, took the prevailing fever and suddenly 
died. 

Two coloured men, belonging to the crew of the Margaret 
Oakley, became great favourites with the natives of Fort Dau- 
phin, and each building a house and making a garden, took 
unto themselves Malagashe wives, and settled down to follow 
the business of salting beef and curing hides ; by the last ac- 
counts they were doing well. 

Mr. W started on an inland journey through Madagas- 
car, with the intention of reaching Tamatave. He was seized 
by the savages and carried prisoner into the interior of the isl- 
and, where his life was threatened, and he was imprisoned on 
an islet in the centre of a large lake. At night, crocodiles and 
other animals from the water crept over the islet, making 
frightful noises, and he was obliged to seek refuge in the tops 
of trees, where he constructed a basket-work of osiers around 
the branches to prevent his falling while asleep. On this islet 
he remained two days without food, and fearing that every 

Hh2 



366 INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES, ETfc. 

moment would be his last, for he knew not what were the de- 
liberations of the savages. On the third day a canoe cau- 
tiously approached, and as it drew near he saw that it was 
paddled by a Malagashe girl. He came from his conceal- 
ment. She had taken pity upon the white stranger and brought 
him food. This kind-hearted young woman afterward perilled 
her life in aiding him to escape from the islet prison. 

Thus perished the Margaret Oakley and her enterprising but 
unfortunate captain, the ribs of the former being buried on 
the eastern, and the bones of the latter upon the western side 
of Mozambique Passage. 

As interested and prejudiced persons have circulated the 
most slanderous reports concerning the character and princi- 
ples of Captain Morrell, it may be expected that I should say 
something concerning them ; but I shall speak of neither far- 
ther than to say, that he was a good seaman, always respected 
and feared by his crew, neither selfish, avaricious, nor illiberal. 
He could build airy castles and instruct others, but when he 
came to the petty details necessary to put them in execution, 
he lacked perseverance and prudence. In regard to his con- 
duct respecting the vessel intrusted to his care, I believe he 
intended to do right when he started, and if others had dealt 
with him as he expected them to do, the voyage might have 
prospered. But many things occurred which the world can- 
not appreciate, and which in a measure justified (as he 
thought) his conduct. I am inclined to the belief that Cap- 
tain Morrell was not so abandoned a man as many suppose, 
and that after the wreck of the vessel he became partially in- 
sane. 

And now, courteous reader, I thank you for having accom- 
panied me thus far, and gratefully bid you farewell. In con- 
clusion I have only to remark, that I have since travelled much, 
and seen the beautiful hills, and dales, and prairies of interior 
Texas, called by many the garden of the world ; but when I 
now sit me down at home and take a retrospect of my travel, 
and con over the remarks in my journals about climate and 
country, I am daily more and more convinced that the islands 
in the Tropical Pacific Ocean comprise the fairest regions of 
the earth. 



APPENDIX. 



The proposition has frequently been made to the author to aid in 
the formation of a colony and trading expedition to some of the islands 
in the Pacific Ocean. The feasibility of such a project will readily 
be inferred from the accounts given of these islands, their resources, 
and the casualties attending a voyage to them, in the preceding pages. 
It is not my purpose, nor, if it were, would this be the place to discuss 
the difficulties, advantages, or probable success of such an expedition ; 
though I may say, in general terms, that my personal examination of 
these islands, the quality of the soil, the mildness of the climate, and 
the manifest advantages of their situation with reference to the course 
of trade between the Eastern and Western continents, has convinced 
me that in no other quarter of the globe would a trading and colonizing 
expedition, fitted out under proper auspices, and with due care and 
skill, be more sure of a speedy and lucrative return than in this. 
Small capital and few persons would be required for its outfit ; every- 
thing there is exceedingly inviting, and the project, in every aspect in 
which it has presented itself to my mind, seems eminently attractive 
and flattering. For the purpose of giving, on other authority than my 
own, a view of the peculiar natural facilities of this region of the 
earth for settlement and cultivation, I venture to make the following 
extracts from an account of the Navigators' Group, by Rev. John 
Williams, of the London Missionary Society ; it applies still more 
forcibly to the islands to which I have referred : 

" The Navigators' Group is, with the exception of the Sandwich 
Islands, the largest and most populous in the Pacific at which missions 
have been commenced, and in a few years they will no doubt rise into 
considerable importance. As they lie in the vicinity of the Friendly 
Islands, the extensive Fiji Group, the New Hebrides, New Caledonia, 
and numerous other solitary islands, intercourse between them could 
be easily maintained, and thus a civilizing and religious influence 
might be exerted upon the countless thousands of benighted heathen 
who dwell between the Samoas and the coast of New Holland ; and 
whether we view this group as a mart for commercial enterprise, a 
field for scientific research, or a sphere for the exercise of Christian 
benevolence, we must regard it with feelings of the liveliest interest. 



368 APPENDIX. 

" A few years ago it was much wished by the inhabitants of New 
South Wales that the British government would form a settlement 
at one of the South Sea Islands, where ships might refresh and refit, 
without being exposed to danger. The fate of the unfortunate Old- 
ham whaler, and the numerous tragical events which were constantly 
occurring at these islands, gave rise to this suggestion. Although the 
danger has ceased where Christianity has been introduced, yet, should 
such an establishment be determined upon, the Navigators' Group is a 
most eligible place for its formation. Its central situation, the excel- 
lence of the harbours, the abundant supply of water and provisions, 
the amazing extent of rich and arable land, and the quantity and va- 
riety of the timber, are important perquisites for an establishment of 
this description, and such as must ensure its prosperity. 

" For the extent of surface these islands deserve consideration. 
There are many valleys, containing thousands of acres of rich soil, 
entirely untilled ; indeed, the portion of country under cultivation is 
very inconsiderable ; for, as the fruits grow abundantly without labour, 
the Samoans, like the Tahitians, display but little ingenuity in agri- 
culture. 

" In this they are greatly surpassed by their neighbours the Tonga- 
tabuans, who subsist almost entirely upon the produce raised by them- 
selves ; while the Tahitian and the light-hearted Samoan can work or 
play, rove abroad or stay at home, dance or sleep, with the assurance 
that the beautiful grove of bread-fruit trees, in which his cottage is 
imbowered, will afford him an abundant supply ; and if these should 
prove insufficient, that the mountains abound with bananas, plantains, 
wild yams, and other esculents, more than enough to supply the de- 
ficiency. Notwithstanding this, however, the Samoans cultivate vast 
quantities of taro, because they prefer it to the yam. 

"The soil is so exceedingly rich, that coffee, sugar, cotton, and 
every other tropical production may be raised in these islands to al- 
most any extent ; and as they are well watered, and abound with 
springs, lakes, and streams, machinery might in many places be work- 
ed with the greatest facility. This, of course, enhances the value of 
these superb islands incalculably. 

" The trees of the Samoas, as at Tahiti, exhibit great beauty and 
variety. Some are remarkable for their size, and others for their 
flowers, or fragrance, or fruit. Most of them are evergreens. In- 
deed, there are but two or three deciduous trees on the islands. In 
general, the new and old leaves, the bud and the blossom, the young 
fruit and the ripe, appear together, and adorn these through the whole 
circle of the year. Some of the trees are exceedingly valuable as 
timber. This is the case with the tamanu (calophyllum) : these grow 



APPENDIX. 369 

to an amazing size ; I have seen them five feet in diameter. The na- 
tives select this wood for their canoes, stools, pillows, bowls, and 
other articles, which are wrought with immense labour out of the 
solid mass. It has been used by us in ship-building, and as it is du- 
rable, and holds a nail with great tenacity, it is very valuable for that 
purpose ; its value is farther enhanced by the circumstance that iron 
lasts much longer in the tamanu than in any other wood. We have 
also made furniture of it. It has a veiny and beautiful grain, and is 
susceptible of high polish. In the hands of European cabinet-makers 
it would vie with some of our most admired woods. This might be- 
come an important article of commerce. 

" The amai, or miro, is another tree of note in the various islands of 
the Pacific ; the leaves of the miro were always used in religious cer- 
emonies, and ambassadors invariably carried a branch of it as an em- 
blem of their authority. The wood is of a close texture, of a dark- 
brown colour, very little variegated, but susceptible of a high polish. 
It is easily worked, and makes beautiful furniture. 

" The ton (cordia) is a low, wide-spreading tree, and is generally 
planted near the dwellings of chiefs. Its wood closely resembles 
rosewood in colour and grain, but it is not so hard. It makes beau- 
tiful furniture. I have frequently thought that it would be exceed- 
ingly valuable for musical instruments, as the wooden drums made 
from it by the natives produce a far more sonorous and mellow sound 
than those constructed from any other tree. On this- account the tou 
is highly prized by them. 

"To those already mentioned I might add several other trees, es- 
pecially the toi, with the botanical name of which I am unacquainted. 
This tree grows to a considerable size and height. The wood towards 
the heart of the tree is of a blood red, and the lighter parts are beau- 
tifully waved ; like satin-wood, it takes a high polish. 

" The too, also (casuarina) abounds in aU the islands, attains to a 
large size, and is covered with exceedingly graceful foliage. The 
wood is reddish brown, and very hard. We have used it for sheaves 
of blocks, for cogs in our sugar-mills, and for other similar articles ; 
and I think it would be valuable for a variety of purposes for which 
hard wood is required in England. The ingenuity of the natives is 
displayed in working this wood, which they do with wonderful facil- 
ity, considering their miserable tools of shell, stone, and bone. Their 
clubs and spears, many of which are most exquisitely carved, are 
made of this wood. 

" The above, and numerous other trees which the islands produce 
in great abundance, might be added to the list of those most valued in 
Europe. From many of them gums and dyes are procured, which 



370 APPENDIX. 

might become articles of importance in our own and civilized coun- 
tries. Several of the trees possess a high value to the islanders ; and 
I have frequently admired, on the one hand, the beneficence of God, 
who has united so many useful qualities in a single plant, and, on the 
other, the ingenuity of the natives in discovering and applying these 
to the purposes of necessity and comfort. 

" Of this remark I shall select an illustration. The candle-nut tree 
(aleurites triloba) abounds in the mountains, and as its leaves are near- 
ly white, they form a most agreeable contrast to the dark foliage of the 
other trees among which it is interspersed. It bears a nut about the 
size of a walnut, which is used as a substitute for a candle. Having 
stripped off the shell, they perforate the kernel, and string a number 
of these on a rib of the cocoanut leaflet, and then light them. By 
burning large quantities of this nut in a curiously-constructed oven, 
the natives obtain a fine lampblack, with which they paint their 
canoes, idols, and drums, and print various devices upon their orna- 
mental garments. They also use the colouring thus obtained in tat- 
tooing their skin. Besides this, the tuitui furnishes a gum, with which 
they varnish the cloth made from the bark of the bread-fruit tree, thus 
rendering it more impervious and durable. From its inner bark a 
juice is procured, which is a valuable substitute for paint-oil, and 
when mixed with lampblack, or with the dye from the casuarina and 
other trees, it becomes so permanent that it never washes off. 

" Finding that cocoanut oil when mixed with paint did not dry, we 
used candle-nut oil, which answered the purpose much better. 

"But, among all the trees that adorn the islands of the Pacific, the 
bread-fruit deserves the pre-eminence for its beauty and value. It 
frequently grows fifty or sixty feet high, and has a trunk between two 
and three feet in diameter. The leaves are broad and sinuated, some- 
thing similar in their form to those of the fig-tree. They are frequent- 
ly eighteen inches in length, and of a dark green colour, with a glossy 
surface resembling that of the richest evergreens. The fruit is oval, 
about six inches in diameter, and of a light pea green. It always 
grows at the extremity of the branches, and hangs either alone, or in 
clusters of two or three. There are sometimes several hundreds of 
these upon one tree, and their light colour, contrasted with the dark, 
glossy leaves among which they hang, together with the stately out- 
line and spiring shape of the tree, render it an object which, for its 
beauty, is not surpassed in the whole vegetable world. The value of 
this wonderful tree, however, surpasses its beauty. It is everything 
to the natives — their house, their food, and their clothing. The trunk 
furnishes one of the best kinds of timber they possess. It is the 
colour of mahogany, exceedingly durable, and is used by the natives 



APPENDIX. 371 

in building their canoes and houses, and in the manufacture of the 
few articles of furniture they formerly possessed. From the bark of 
the branches they fabricate their clothing ; and when the tree is 
punctured, there exudes from it a quantity of mucilaginous fluid re- 
sembling thick cream, which hardens by exposure to the sun, and, 
when boiled, answers all the purposes of English pitch. The fruit is 
to the South Sea islander the staff of life ; it bears two crops every 
season. Besides this, there are several varieties which ripen at dif- 
ferent periods, so that the natives have a supply of this palatable and 
nutritious food during the greater part of the year. The leaves are 
excellent fodder for cattle, and they are so excessively fond of it, that 
it is necessary to protect the young trees by high fences. 

" There are very many varieties of the bread-fruit, for each of 
which the natives have distinct names ; and there stood in our gar- 
den a tree which was regarded by them as a very great curiosity. 
Its two main branches differed considerably, the leaves on the one 
side of the tree being much more deeply sinuated than those on the 
other, and the fruit on the one branch being oval, while that on the 
other was nearly round. This was an accidental circumstance, for 
the natives do not understand grafting. 

"At the Navigator Islands we found a variety with which the 
Hervey and Tahitian islanders are unacquainted. This had a num- 
ber of seed ranged round the core. The tree which produces this 
fruit does not grow to so great a size as the others, and the leaves 
are not sinuated. When I informed the Raiateans of this circum- 
stance it excited considerable amazement, and the first thing Makea 
inquired for, on arriving at the Samoas, was the bread-fjuit with seed 
in it, that he might see the wonder for himself. 

" I observed that the rustic native cottages generally stood amid a 
grove of these beautiful little trees, the fruitful branches of which im- 
bowered them, and shielded their inmates from the piercing rays of 
the sun. The inhabitants of these fertile spots can lie upon their 
mats, and, without labour or care, behold their bread growing before 
their eyes. 

" None of the reptiles seen are venomous. I would remark that 
there is not in the whole range of the Pacific a finer group, and I am 
persuaded that, as soon as the progress of religion among the inhab- 
itants shall afford additional facilities for properly exploring them, a 
vast amount of interesting information will be obtained, and more 
beauties and wonders will be disclosed. 

" I shall conclude these remarks by observing that perhaps few 
more extensive or more inviting fields are open to the botanist than 
the South Sea islands, This will be apparent when I inform you 



1 



■ 



372 APPENDIX. 






that in 1832 the Tahitian and Society Islands were visited by M. 
Bertero, an Italian botanist, an accomplished and scientific man, who 
astonished not only the natives, but ourselves, by the cures he effected 
with medicinal herbs. When a patient came to him for relief, M. 
Bertero, without going twenty yards from the spot, would often point 
out some herb which, used according to his directions, produced in 
numberless instances the most beneficial effects. This gentleman 
was enthusiastic and indefatigable in the pursuit of his object, and 
during the eight or ten months of his sojourn at the islands he ob- 
tained two thousand new specimens. I regret exceedingly to state that 
the vessel in which he sailed for the west coast of South America 
perished at sea, and that this gentleman was unhappily lost, together 
with his valuable collection." 



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